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HP42

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About HP42

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    "Washing machines live longer with Calpol..."
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  1. Gosh, could that be me then? Still sat on the shelf of doom, must be 6 years-ish... Might get it out and finish it now we've got the potential to make a small Squadron!
  2. Thanks Agent K, I think that fits the bill pretty well especially as it's on a low loader and it moved yesterday. Right, I'll tell her what she saw!
  3. Thanks PV, I bet that's what she saw. She said it looked very fresh in terms of paint, so perhaps it was on the way 'home'. Never knew of it's existence, would like to see it myself.
  4. That's exactly what I thought. I can't think of any nose sections lurking about aside the one in the IWM London (and a wrong colour one at Brooklands), and I'd be deeply surprised if that was on the move as it's integral to a recent showpiece display. My Mum's description was quite specific. Very odd...
  5. http://www.lincsaviation.co.uk/news/lancaster-nx611-return-to-flight/lancaster-update-2.htm Thinking aloud here and partly answering own question. Looks like Just Jane is still intact as far as sections go albeit stripped. No turret and paintwork and travelling away from East Kirkby, so not her one presumes. The plot thins...
  6. Hi all, Tuesday 17th January, about 10am Wheatcroft traffic island near Nottingham. My Mum said she saw a cockpit section on the back of a low loader. Her description of it suggested it had a large greenhouse style canopy, a front gun turret with a blister window below and painted black at the bottom and green at the top. She said the paintwork looked fresh. Sounds like a Lancaster nose section to me and that's what she said herself. Could it be 'Just Jane'? I know they're looking to get her back in the air at some point, just wondering if she's been dismantled with a view to sending parts away for refurbishment. Can't think of anything else unless the IWM Halifax section is off to IWM Manchester..... no idea, any thoughts? Not sure who's more curious, Mum or myself!
  7. Looking great! Getting deja-vu again... Take your time, it's a hobby for fun and I can check in to see progress when you're ready, health comes first! Just looking at the pictures again, I took them some years ago. I think only the first picture actually shows the front entrance lobby. The rest, I'm pretty sure are the rear entrance over the wing. I think on the front entrance the cabin crew fold up seat is on the left whereas it's on the right at the rear entrance as you walk in. Colours are the same though. I've got more pictures of the rest of the aircraft if you need them. One thing I have looked at since I built the kit is the position of the nose wheel leg. I think it is a little too far back afterall, this is compared to the windows and the leading edge of the wing. My best guess is that it should come forward by approx '1 window space'. Had I known this at the start I'd have, err... left it exactly where is was because life's too short quite frankly!
  8. Well, the model is finished but the work continues on the diorama. I've been scratting around for references on the net and made do with some rather vague pictures. Yesterday I finally stumbled across my reference shots from G-BOAA in East Fortune, doh! Here's a shot of one of the 'airstairs'. I think there are a few versions of this kicking around so I mocked up a generic model it with much artistic licence and a bit of freestyle -fiction based on fact if you will. Real thing... Messing about with a card model. Initial sections cut Assembled and primed Needs a bit of tidying up, painting and a few more details to busy it up. The wheels are a bit big but it looks reasonable next to the Concorde.
  9. Graham, Just found my research shots from G-BOAA at East Fortune. Hope they help with the cabin details and engine colours. Next shot down, note the panel in the door that folds back then down. Engines!! Some form of hot vent that is wedge shaped not cuboid as per the kit. It leaves lost of oddly coloured streaks... Err...sort of charcoal grey-ish... Let's hope this helps! Could have done with there myself but could I find them?
  10. Nice one, I think at that scale I'd stick with the kit ones, they look very good to me and much better than the kits of old.
  11. Looking good Graham, I'm pleased you're dropping the elevons, I wish I'd done that with mine now. If the Concorde at Duxford is typical, the elevon/wing join is best described as the cylindrical equivalent of a 'ball and socket' joint, so there's no gap at the top. I suppose you could angle the underside with bevel and get the desired effect. Just a note on the door, it's in two pieces. The top section of about 8-10 inches or so drops back and behind the rest of the door. Well done for putting the door far enough to the left, you'd need to slip through mine like a sideways Indiana Jones. If you've taken the door out at the panel lines you might need to split the decal to fit around the opening if the Revell is the same size as the Airfix. Also worth noting is the red line on the top of the inner elevons. Airfix give a decal for the underside but not the top, might add that to mine! Now you've opened the door, what are you plans for air stairs? I'm working on a set though time is in short supply at the moment.
  12. Ooh I'm in before the end of the adverts. Popcorn and drinks at the ready, phone to silent...
  13. Looks great Ced! I've got a part built one and after looking at yours I might go on and finish it (along with a Firefly also on the shelf of doom) and have a little Korea thing going on.
  14. Thanks, Ced. I've still got the steps to construct as well as position some set dressing. If I build simple air-stairs then I could suggest the aircraft is in one of the quieter airports such as the Bahamas. I could then chuck in some fairly modern vehicles and people to act as passengers. I'm looking for a scene basically!
  15. Thanks Ced, if you ever make it up here do tell me and I'll join you at the café for a cuppa and open up the model cabinet for you. Chocks Away is pretty much under the control tower and open to all-comers. You could combine it with a trip to Newark Air Museum which is about 20-25 minutes away and well worth a visit. Tollerton is not far out of your way if you came up from Bath via the A46 at Leicester. As for photoetch, well I've used a few sets now and it does make a big difference to a model, but it takes time! Much tongue sticking out of the corner of one's mouth and squinting to be done. Conclusions as to the Concorde kit and advice to other modellers: 1) It's got something of a poor reputation as a kit, partly due to issues of fit but also some accuracy issues. I think much of its reputation is down to its sheer size. The three sections don't fit together all that well but they can be sanded smooth, it's size that makes it a little daunting to many. Even if it was a modern moulding it would take some building. If I were doing it again I'd build it nose down, elevons down and bucket doors partly closed to show it as it really appears on the ground. I suspect nose down would eliminate the iffy fit of the visor screen. 2) Build the nose one way or other but don't even think about making it adjustable, it will break and just isn't accurate. Scratch a bulkhead under the visor to make it much more accurate visually. A spray of red/blue Tamiya transparent on the inside of the windows makes them appear more realistic. 3) Consider cutting the internal windscreen in half at the front to lessen the gap on the sides. It's easy to fill the centre join. 4) Mask around the screen and use decal strips to produce the fine bars in the visor. 5) Don't spend too long in the cockpit, you can't really see a darn thing in there unless you light it internally. Move the cockpit floor back a few mm, easy to do and it stops the control panel combing clashing with the fuselage halves as you close them 6) Consider adding sprue braces inside the fuselage. They might be able to push the sides out a fraction and lessen the gap in the wing rootes. 7) Accepted wisdom is that the nose wheel is too far back. I'm not so sure. I never moved mine as I thought it looked about right. It did make we wonder how this was arrived at and against what datum point was it compared against. Be careful of looking at the pre-production example in Duxford, it's close superficially, yet there are a zillion differences if you look for them, some of them quite major! 8) When gluing the engine nacelles onto the wings, add a strip of styrene to help reinforce the gap under the nacelle where it will be hidden. That gap runs in front of the engine and will annoy you, so glue it well, fill and sand. 9) You'll find an annoying gap between the top of the engine nacelle and the rear of the wing. Fill it with flexible styrene and smooth it all flush with PPP filler (buy PPP, very useful stuff) 10) The aftermarket wheels are nice and accurate but not easy to attach to the kit's undercarriage legs. If you use them, make your own axles. I don't think the kit parts are a million miles out quite frankly. 11) Decals, from what I can see the Revell decals are more accurate in so much as they have the dotted graduations whereas Aifix do not. Revell also attempt the red over the rudder actuator whereas Airfix fudged it, but you can see my little fix with decal material from the earlier scheme, pretty simples -but needs Micro Sol. 12) Leave off the aerials till the last part after decaling or you will knock them off for sure. 13) Check references for the fiddly vane bits around the nose, the oversize kit parts make it look like a warthog but it's easy to shape the parts better and do a little scratch building. 14) Building it wheels up, nose up and placing it on the stand is the fasted way to get a beautiful model. Glue the ball joint in the stand in place rather than rely on the friction of the small screw. Cover the stand in a plastic bag and use it when spraying the top surface, very useful indeed! 15) Airfix decal placement instructions are reasonable, my advice it to tick them off as you go. Many of the panel lines and decals do not line up and the placement is a little haphazard. If you're a stickler then go photograph a production model Concorde and take it from there. Airfix decals were very usable and well printed. 16) Apropos 15, there is variation between the BA Concordes. Each aircraft was quite an individual and be prepared to find tiny differences (each fuel tank was bespoke as the fitters found out when they came to add the new lining after the Air France disaster). Some vents by the nosewheel as seen in the photoetch are painted white, some are bare metal, different colour gear doors and so on... and on...and on.... 17) The Extratech photoetch. Yes it adds much visual interest to the model as well as a lot of time to the build. I can't find it again for love nor money so it may be out of production. It's a nice addition but not completely essential. You could scratch much of the detail and what it replaces in terns of kit parts isn't exactly 'bad'. Some parts such as the wheel hubs and the bucket door actuators are debatable in their usefulness in the kit. The panels under the nosegear wheels take a lot of feathering in and this takes as much away as it gives in terms of accuracy. Overall, the etch is nice but not essential. Aftermarket suggestions, Freightdog are you listening? These three items would transform the kit if they were ever made available and make it quite simple to build. 1) A drop-in nosewheel bay to make it more accurate, include the vents, take away the nosewheel positioning error if it really exists. One drop in bay could add so much and make the kit easier to build. Main gear bays would be nice I guess and add value to the exercise. 2) Resin nose section. Do it in two versions, open or closed, include a bulkhead under the visor and match the whole assembly up with the fuselage to alleviate 50% of the kit issues. 3) Resin engine rears. Just make them fit properly, or make them in two adjustable halves that are correct top and bottom with a bit of sanding leeway in the middle. More detailed resin versions of the bucket doors would be preferable to photoetch and easy to fit. ...oh go on, a 4th item, turned brass pitot tube! I think the above items would probably sell well as it's quite a mainstream kit and it would bring them out of the nation's stashes. Overall It's not that bad a kit. It's just a lot of work to get it looking good due to fit but above all size. It's not technically difficult, just lots to do, hence the 'beast' expression, so don't be put off. I really enjoyed this build in truth and I'm delighted with the finished product.