bentwaters81tfw

Venting, not dumping.

every model builder's staple

now that's just bulwarks

the cabin boy was

You could use a tight rope.

Looks like fuel venting.

.

do I detect a bit of needle going on?

Hard to keep track of these now.

I waited a long time for this kit, I used to plague Mel every time I saw him. Bulky? your estimates are not far off, it's heavy too. It is a favourite of mine. Used to see them at RAF Dishforth, just off the A1 in North Yorkshire. Worth the wait and the build challenges. Not for the beginner, but not that difficult either.

Dora Wings FD2 and a Hasegawa F-22 Egg plane appeared yesterday. I'm sure I didn't order them . Now waiting on a Kitty Hawk 1/48 Starfire.

My notes on building: I have found one or two details that need addressing to save you a little trouble. This is a resin kit, and when assembled is relatively heavy compared with i/m. The u/c comprises white metal legs throughout with flattened resin wheels. There is a main heavy casting with an H pattern retraction strut. This strut may need shortening slightly to get the main casting at the correct angle. The oleo struts glue into the main casting, and are approx 1.5mm in diameter, and terminate in an axle box. The oleos are also too long. Under load, the axle boxes are only just proud of the heavy castings - check the photographic references in our Walkaround section* These oleo struts are very weak and bend easily under the weight of the airframe. I have just had one snap off. I recommend the following fix. You will need a mini vise and a 1.2mm drill. Firstly drill the holes in the main leg casting 2-3mm deeper (more if you like). Take each (4) axle boxes and cut off the oleo strut. Do these one at a time so you have a reference point. Drill the axle box vertically to accept a replacement steel oleo pin. Superglue replacement oleos. Second point. The axle boxes have a large diameter peg instead of an axle shaft. The wheels are resin and have a centre spot marked but will need to be drilled to fit the legs. I have drilled a 1.2mm hole across the axle boxes and through the wheel hub to accept a steel axle pin. I then reamed out either side of the hub to accept the pegs. Obviously you will end up with two holes drilled at 90 degrees to each other, but the axle box is big enough, and a dollop of super glue holding the axle and oleo will strengthen the whole assembly. It's a bit of a faff, but will result in u/c that will take the weight of the model. The tail wheel will just superglue into the fork and mudguard. On the instruction sheet, Mel says fit the main gear wells into the wing with slow setting epoxy, then fit the nacelles. Be sure to assemble in the stated order - however: The wells can be dropped into place dry, the nacelle offered up with a dab of superglue at the rear, then the well can be positioned with a finger and thin superglued. The front of the nacelle can then be superglued to the wing. You will need to file some corners here and dry fit in order to get the correct alignment. The fuselage halves have a rough finish to the mating surfaces. DO NOT be tempted to sand these smooth. If you do, the fuselage will be too narrow and you will have problems with the (resin) canopy - no spare. Test fit and file the windows to get a snug fit - particularly the rectangular ones. I used Clearfix. Match the fuselage halves carefully (The cockpit bulkhead may need filing) tape together with strips, and superglue in short sections. Start above and behind the cockpit and work aft. Then underneath and work forwards, closing the nose last. Let each application dry before starting the next. Then you can sand and fill the joint as required. I found the canopy to be slightly wide and low at the back. After dipping in Klear, I superglued one rear corner on the vertical join - Not the cill. I left it over night then did the same the other side, nipping the canopy between fingers to ensure alignment. When this cured, the corners were flush, and top lined up without a dip. Any gaps were taken up with superglue or GS Hypo and Deluxe perfect putty. The inner wings will need fettling to get a snug fit at the root. A sharp knife and a small flat file will take care of this and any other fine adjustments you need. The under nose glazing (do this last - see astrodome) may also need the 'glue one corner at a time' treatment as well. When fitting the tailplane, glue flush with the cabin roof joint, and fill any horizontal gaps under the tailplane afterwards with plastic shims and filler. If you do it the other way, you will have a nasty step to fill on the cabin roof. Don't forget to fit the tailwheel well before the tailplane! A final point. The astrodome has no lip to it, and mine at least is very slightly oval, as is the hole. You can see where this is going. After retrieving the dome twice from the inside of the finished airframe, I used a large dollop of Clearfix to glaze the hole, then fitted the dome on top with the longer axis longitudinally on the airframe Aside from that, it goes together with little fuss.

bottled by coca cola

you'll get screwed over

With or without brown sauce. Depends how I feel.

republic AKA the UK

by those pesky Aussies

The Super would have a double chrome rubbing strip along the body side flutes, and a triangular chrome 'Super' badge on the rear wing. Better seats and a light green carpet.

Magna Shorts Seamew.

That would be Goodwood green. Seats should be a 2 tone green. Only the Super came with carpet, the rest were 1 or 2 piece moulded rubber mat, mostly black, though the early dimpled rubber was sometimes a very dark shade of the seat colours.

commonly known as marriage

that be the horse?

poultices available for your

with an outside dunny

Piasecki H-16 Revell kit from 1955.