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NG899

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About NG899

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  1. 1/48 Eduard Harrier GR.7/9

    Hi James, I agree with Graham, buy the PWIVs and make the CRV-7s! I have not seen any Op Herrick photos of aircraft without bombs or CRV-7s; unless the bombs have been dropped. If the rockets have also been fired then the CRV-7s frangible heads would have been blown off leaving the centre and rear sections of the unit under the pylon. So, the cheapest option is just to fit 'empty' CRV-7s made as outlined below... In 48th scale the dimensions of the 19-shot CRV-7s as made by Belcher are: External Diameter: >> 8mm or 11/32" - Evergreen make plastic tubing to this size, Ref: 231 (https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-polysytrene-tubes) cost £4.99 plus P+P from Hannants or Transport Models (Preston) Lengths: Centre section >> 19mm or 1 3/16"; rear section aft of rocket holder end plate (hollow) >> 6mm or 1/4", curvature happens over last 2.5mm Nose cone length >>8mm or 11/32" - it would be easier to make this from 8mm plastic rod rather than use filler inside the tubing; even milliput fine filler is likely to leave you with a step between it and the plastic; though lots of coats of paint and sanding with fine sanding sticks should do the trick to hide the line. Pylon mounting points >> at 9mm and 15.5mm back from start of centre section Oh, you'll need some sanding sticks too - coarse, fine, 3-in-1 polisher. Flexible and MDC are good makers. You can use a scalpel blade to scribe the joints on the CRV-7 if you don't have a scribing tool; use several layers off masking tape to provide a raised edge around the tube. How to make the 19 empty tubes inside the CRV-7s? Don't! Use two discs of styrene sheet to fill the front and rear of the centre section of the tube, paint them aluminium and then using black paint and your best steady hand paint 19 black dots on each end. That's what I'd do as I'll not be spending ages trying to see daylight through 19 empty holes! (Ok, 38 for the two pods.) Sadly, this hobby is not as cheap these days as it once was. I often get one resin item and then look to replicate it in plastic. Things like Sniper, Terma, DJRP and CRV-7s are easy to do once you have sourced the rod or tubing needed. Hope that helps. Cheers Nick
  2. 1/48 Eduard Harrier GR.7/9

    James, just a thought, contact Key Publishing and see if they have a copy of their excellent "Herrick Harriers" supplement produced by Alan Warnes in 2010; well worth getting!!! Equally, I'd recommend a certain book "what Andy Donovan and I wrote" on the GR.9 and T.12, published by Double Ugly. If you're going to make more Harriers, it would be worth considering. If this is your only one, maybe not. Link two more info about it on BM: Cheers Nick
  3. 1/48 Eduard Harrier GR.7/9

    Kirk! 'tenshun! Hi James, Sniper and Terma were fitted to the GR.9As which participated in the last year of Joint Force Harrier's deployment on Op Herrick. Both were fitted on special under fuselage adapters/pylons; Sniper on the port, Terms on the starboard. Terms came later onto the scene, so before it's arrival the strake was fitted to provide lift improvement. A Digital Joint Reconnaissance Pod (DJRP) was often carried on the centre line. By Terma's arrival the standard operational fit was: Outboard pylons: Paveway IV (PWIV) Next pylons inboard: 19-shot CRV-7 rocket pod Outrigger pylons: BOL rails, without 'winders Inboard pylons: fuel tanks Decals for Herrick aircraft other than "Michelle" and "Lucy" which, iirc, the Olimp weapons set has included, are best sourced from the Harrier Disbandment schemes decals sheet which AIRframe produced and which may be available from Hannants. As Squadron markings were not carried on ops, you can make up any serial and fin code from there for Herrick GR.9As and get a full stencil set too; though be careful on that... the grey ones which should be used ended being printed a purple colour as the artist had matched them to a photo taken in the hangar under sodium lights which did indicate they were purple rather than dark grey! The problem is easily solved by applying somewhere between a grey wash and drying brushing over the decals; a technique which could equally be used to tone down the black decals provided which were used on the retro came GR.9A. Have a browse on various websites, like airliners.net and UK airshows forum, to find photos of the aircraft you'd like to model. Hope that helps for now James. Cheers Nick Stand easy Kirk. :-)
  4. 1/48 Eduard Harrier GR.7/9

    Hi James, You'll find some notes to help your build here: http://www.harriersig.org.uk/models/index.htm Good luck with it and I'm looking forward to seeing progress. Cheers Nick
  5. A simple question,which could help those of us who use either of them. However, I'm expecting the simple answer to be "No". If it's not an option now, could it be in the future, with some "behind the scenes" tech fixes applied to the BM site? One can always live in hope..., even if one doesn't actually live in Hope, Derbyshire. Thanks Nick
  6. Hi Laurie, Harrier GR9/9As may be grey but they are all unique! Two things to help you... A how to build the Hasegawa/Revell kit I put together a while back plus info on seat and pilot: http://harriersig.org.uk/models/index.htm A very useful reference book, for which I don't get royalties... Let me know which serial number you intend to finish the model as and I'kll dig out some photos to help you; drop me a PM with your direct e-mail address in it. Cheers, Nick
  7. Really nice work Giemme; arrived late to this thread, sorry. On the stencils, one word of advice... each Harrier had some stencils - like the footprints on the LERX in slightly different places. So if you want 100% accuracy refer to photos is my advice. I think, from the scheme colours, you're making ZD433/45A, yes? If you drop me a PM with your e-mail address in, I'll send you some photos to help including of her out in theatre. This book may help too, if it hasn't already, for future GR9s if not this one... (No, I' don't get royalties folks!) Good luck with it... It's all downhill (easier!) from here! Looking forward to seeing it finished soon. Ciao, Nick
  8. The Definitive Spitfire Mk.1 Thread

    It's why I'm experimenting with how to best depict what you can see in 1:24th scale... 5 thou high ribs on their own look to stark 10 thou are too proud, even when faired in with Vallejo tube filler and then sanded down - not right 5 thou under Tamiya tape is better but the tape itself may be too apparent under paint - will find out in an hour or two after coating one side of the completed rudder which has already had 4 coats of Klear on it to seal the tape and try and blend the edges. Looking at the black aileron there's a distinct shadow between the hinge points... On with the alchemy!
  9. The Definitive Spitfire Mk.1 Thread

    Hi Work In Progress, Many thanks for your comments, links and the photo of P9374. The port aileron on that provides me with a good start for what I need - great! For the avoidance of confusion, let me explain my request in new words... Rib tapes - yep, got those, chord-wise over the ribs. But, there's also leading edge and trailing edge tapes which go over those and, under them, some spanwise tapes - if the ailerons are given similar treatment to the rudder and elevators. The picture of the unpainted aileron in Andy Saunders' 'Spitfire P9374' book shows a spanwise tape, underneath the rib tapes, on the top of the aileron which intersects the hinge joints; almost as is reinforcing for the point where the metal leading edge part stops and the fabric begins. It's similar to the tapes on the elevator upper surface at the same point by the hinge slots and the top to bottom tape on the rudder, visible in other photos. It's evidence of that spanwise raised ssection between the aileron hinge points which I've been looking for. I hope that resolves any confusion caused so far. Cheers Nick
  10. Keep up the good work Pappy, you're doing a fine job. I've just put up what follows on another SHAR thread on this forum; apologies for repetition. For those in doubt about the Kinetic kits I'd refer you to the following comments by a late friend of mine, Steve Hague, from when the Harrier SIG built thirty (yes, 30!) 1:48th scale Airfix FA.2s for 899 Naval Air Squadron's decommissioning dinner in March 2005... (At that time the Airfix kit was the only game in town.) Cheers Nick "Let's build an Airfix SHAR FA2... Suitable only for well-adjusted adults who are not prone to bouts of unrestrained rage, swearing or self-harm. A full command of the builder's own language and vocabulary would be useful to alleviate the monotony of using the same choice expressions over and over again, especially when applying the decals. It is recommended that the builder takes regular breaks to avoid stress build-up, as well as allowing occasional exposure to natural light as this model may take a while. This model is not designed for flight and has not been stressed for sudden impact with walls or floor. Caveat emptor...! Might we also take the opportunity to recommend some useful products which might come in handy when making this kit. Humbrol Model Filler One large tube per kit should suffice - apply kit to filler, rather than vice versa Humbrol Medium Sea Grey Available in a variety of shades - including dark green in a tin labelled 165 it seems Wet & Dry - various grades As much as you can carry, maybe more Book of Eastern Meditation To bang your head on Prozac - Extra Strong As much as you can 'score' locally Telephone no. for Samaritans Just in case it’s all too much......!" Frequent calls may be needed. Remembering that we are model-makers and, having built 14 Airfix SHAR FRS.1s/FA.2s and 2 GR.3s, all I can say is - "Thank goodness for Kinetic!" Cheers, Nick
  11. Keep up the good work Shaun. Imagine one 1:48th build is 2 or 3 1:72nd scale ones For those in doubt about the Kinetic kits I'd refer you to the following comments by a late friend of mine, Steve Hague, from when the Harrier SIG built thirty (yes, 30!) 1:48th scale Airfix FA.2s for 899 Naval Air Squadron's decommissioning dinner in March 2005... (At that time the Airfix kit was the only game in town.) Cheers Nick "Let's build an Airfix SHAR FA2... Suitable only for well-adjusted adults who are not prone to bouts of unrestrained rage, swearing or self-harm. A full command of the builder's own language and vocabulary would be useful to alleviate the monotony of using the same choice expressions over and over again, especially when applying the decals. It is recommended that the builder takes regular breaks to avoid stress build-up, as well as allowing occasional exposure to natural light as this model may take a while. This model is not designed for flight and has not been stressed for sudden impact with walls or floor. Caveat emptor...! Might we also take the opportunity to recommend some useful products which might come in handy when making this kit. Humbrol Model Filler One large tube per kit should suffice - apply kit to filler, rather than vice versa Humbrol Medium Sea Grey Available in a variety of shades - including dark green in a tin labelled 165 it seems Wet & Dry - various grades As much as you can carry, maybe more Book of Eastern Meditation To bang your head on Prozac - Extra Strong As much as you can 'score' locally Telephone no. for Samaritans Just in case it’s all too much......!" Frequent calls may be needed. Remembering that we are model-makers and, having built 14 Airfix SHAR FRS.1s/FA.2s and 2 GR.3s, all I can say is - "Thank goodness for Kinetic!"
  12. Correct Bill - EDSG for the fuselage decking under the canopy and the canopy rails on the cockpit sides; DAG for the internal sliding canopy framing. Thankfully you have the intake interiors correct Seen way too many SHAR FRS1s in the EDSG/W or overall EDSG Falklands schemes with white/LAG intake interiors. Enjoy you hols. Cheers Nick
  13. The Definitive Spitfire Mk.1 Thread

    Hi chaps, Anyone up for a challenge to help a major Spitfire build? I'll whisper the words: Fabric Ailerons. What I need to help me are photos of the fabric taping on both surfaces, specifically the location of the span-wise tapes at about the back of the hinge slots. The top surface I may be ok with - photo in Andy Saunders excellent book P9374. The under surface is another matter; no photos in all the usual sources, including umpteen Aeroplane and Fly Past magazines. Any photos of the fabric ailerons fitted to P9374 or N3200 - the only flying Spitfires with fabric ailerons - showing the line of the tapes would be very welcome. (The images of P9306 from Steve N in this thread and those of P9444 elsewhere on BM show both aircraft now have metal ailerons fitted. As this mod reached the squadrons and OTUs from Sept/Oct 1940, all remaining fabric ailerons would have been replaced on Spitfire Mk.Is in those units. This is why the ailerons on the restored P9374 and N3200 had to be specially made and are the first fabric Spitfire ailerons produced since 1940.) Thank you. Nick
  14. Very quickly... Cockpit colour - Matt DSG works fine in this scale. Rear decking colour - Gloss EDSG. So the above looks ok to me Cheers Nick
  15. Hi Pappy, Looking good so far. One very quick thing to correct in the third photo down... The GTS/APU outlet did not have a mesh covering at the bottom of the hole. Indeed, it was just a hole into the unit's exhaust which would soon have cleared anything out. So, remove the mesh from the port side opening. The outlet was literally an oblong box, so you could use 5 thou styrene sheet to make a small box and place it in there. It was in effect, just the same on the later GR.9s. Good luck! Nick
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