proplineruk

Glenco did a 1/48 kit ,but have not seen it for some time, its old but nice.

Hi I have drawings from the flight manual if its of any help ? let me know.

I worked for Dan-Air at various airports in the UK from 1973 until the 90,s we started out in white, then in the 80,s we were in Royal Blue, as the previous people said it depends on the company you worked for, what colour of overalls you wore. Sorry if this does not help ,but you want to find out the company of the airline you are modeling, but white is a good bet most of the time, even though if was a totally impractical colour, for working on old leaky piston engines and early jet engines , in the early days it was not considered a problem , like it is today.

Deleted - not the wanted area and 100 post rule.

Hi Guys thanks for your suggestions , since my last mail I tried epoxy but there is so little contact area, it was not a success, I made a simple jig to build the assembly, it held the curved bas that sits against the door, with an end plate that I marked the position of the horizontal ribs, this DID help with positioning, but this assembly, is so small it was a case of fitting one rib , that moved the previously fitted one , hair pulling out time (if I had some to pull out!) Have started to think about another way of doing this , just to clarify I am using the Studio27 etch set , and I checked the set in the reissued kit and its different, the location for the ribs is much larger on this set , so "should" be easier to use, I suppose if all else fails I could use this part instead of the Studio 27 parts, but I hate being beaten by it.

Hi All as I have not had any reply's about this , anyone with experience in assembling steel etch , namely assembly techniques, any hints ,tips you can give would be appreciated.

Hi can anyone out there help me ? I have the reissue of the Hasegawa Lamborghini Miura and am "trying" to use the steel photo etch for the door "strakes" and am not having much luck as the contact area of the vertical and horizontal elements are only very small and when joined by superglue, keep coming apart. Has anyone successfully built these item's , and if so how did you do it ? if they were brass I would solder it , but with it being some sort of stainless steel , this is not an option. All and any help anyone can give me in working with this type of photo etch would be very much appreciated.

Hi skippiebg I have all 4 1/72 scale kits of the Comet 4 /4C and in (my) opinion the Welsh multi media kit is far and away the most accurate , I worked on the Comet for Dan-Air for 15 years, so I think I know the aircraft reasonably well, Some info about the AA comet 4 that you will not find in any book, at least I have not seen it in any, is that the windscreen panels on the AA aircraft, and as far as only AA were not flat but curved to conform to the nose profile.

Hi I have spare tin,s of the Xtracomour’s X321 if you want some contact me privately.

Hi Guys has anyone used the studio 27 Lamborghini Miura etch set? namely the front bonnet grills, I have tried to make these,I made a jig to hold the frame part steady, but every time I go to insert more than 3 of the horizontal ribs the ones already fitted move out of position. I dont know if its because I am kack handed but no matter how I try and assemble this it does not want to work, Anyone who has done this I would love to here how to do it PLEASE HELP !!

Hi Re this kit , have seen this built and have to say it was superb every inch a VC 10 the guy who built it, did not report any serious problems with it , his only comment was the undercarriage as supplied was sh*t and he used Heller 707 parts suitable modified BUILD IT !

Hi Guys thanks for all your input, its good to hear what other modelers use for NMF and the results they get, I once many moons ago (40 od years)did a Revell DC-7C in kitchen foil great results but boy did take time and patience to do , for brush painting metallic I have found Vallejo acrylic Metal Color airbrush colors great but only brush application , tried airbrushing it but as with AK fragile finish and poor coverage .

Hi Turbofan you say you use Mr metal lacquer paints and get great results , as I have not tried these what do you thin them with and at what pressure also what type of paint do you recommend for the base coat enamel or acrylic ? thanks all for the feedback, and I did see the Youtube videos on the AK paints , but every video you see on new products gives glowing results, as they are used in ideal conditions with perfect equipment, and by guys who do it for a living. i

Hi all this is a general inquiry about AK interactive metal paints , I used there Polished Aluminium paint on a Minicraft B377 that I have built, the first bottle I used worked well and dried in a bout 1 hour max , the second bottle I used took 3 days to dry ! I contacted AK but as yet have not replied,also the black base coat they make takes lots of coats to cover , Is this just me or has any one else had similar problems with AK paints. While on subject of matalic paints,what have you found to be the best make to use and ease of application ?