This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Jon Kunac-Tabinor

Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Jon Kunac-Tabinor last won the day on December 2 2014

Jon Kunac-Tabinor had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,585 Excellent

About Jon Kunac-Tabinor

  • Rank
    si vis pacem, para pactum, et fer ferrulam magnam
  • Birthday 10/02/69

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The Dreaming Spires of Oxford

Recent Profile Visitors

10,764 profile views
  1. Hi all, just a note to say I've received decals back from the printer, and am busy finalising instructions and test fitting etc so I can advise on the best way to apply certain bits ( and not at all building Meteors for my own pleasure..... this is R&D ladies and gents I assure you!) Stay tuned for prices and a release date in the next 2 weeks. Thanks for being patient - but I think you will like these Jon
  2. B E A U T I F U L ! ! ! ! ! Now that is a thing of joy to behold. Top modelling Jonners
  3. Hi Larry - I don't think I've ever seen any. Even Lifelike don't do any! This is the nearest I can see... Jonners
  4. Hi Clive - no such thing as a dumb question in modelling - if you dont know, you dont know! OK so the model is painted with Tamiya acrylic spray. That's important because as an acrylic its not affected by oil based paint ( with an enamel paint you'd need to apply a sealing coat of an acrylic varnish for an oil wash, so that the solvent you use for the oil wash doesn't remove the paint underneath). An important thing to remember: Oil washes stain matt finished pants more than gloss ones- so if you 'just' want a panel line wash - gloss coat your model first with a varnish that wont be affected by oil paint and petroleum solvents ( Tamiya X22 gloss is good for this - spray can or airbrushed, but Klear/ Future/ Quick shine acrylic varnish brushed on works just as well). If you want to actually modify the colour too - by the staining effect of the oil - them matt finishes are good - but they take more work to realise. For the oil wash I use oil paints ( think Rembrandt and Turner) . Mine are from 502 Abteilung - developed for modellers which means, I believe, they have a very fine pigment and dry a little faster than 'artists' oils. What I do is squeeze out a little of the paint, and then thin it with cigarette lighter fluid until its runny. I then apply this over the paint using a softish brush - the wash is thin enough that capillary action will often draw it along panel lines - It goes over everything. With the Claude you'll note I used a different wash for the red areas - so I started with the silver areas and grey was and carefully applied it first to the silver by the edge of the red. The lighter fluid evaporates quickly - so by doing this I created an oil wash zone by the red that was fairly dry first . Then I could apply the rest over the silver. Give it 5 to 10 mins in a normally warm rooms and the lighter fluid has evaporated leaving a film of oil paint over the paint: It will and does look awful. Now the magic bit. Take a folded up kitchen towel ( though any absorbent fine cloth will do) and start to wipe of the oil paint from the surface. Try not to scrub it off as you'll pull paint from the recessed detail you want to highlight - just gently wipe in a uniform direction ( with aircraft - the direction of the airflow is often used, but sometimes you cant do this in nooks & crannies - so just try and keep the direction uniform in these areas). It takes a wee while, but eventually you start to see the surface reappear and the recessed detail still has a trace of the oil paint left in it. You can wipe as much or as little as you want - it depends on the crispness of the detail and how much you want to leave on. Watch out for tight angled areas like wing roots - its easy to miss these and leave too much wash in place. I use a Q-tip for these areas so i can get into them. If you find areas where the wash has been over-removed - just mix up a wee bit more oil and spot apply it - then be more careful removing it from these areas. I aim for a VERY small amount of oil wash left on the model. Once you are happy with what's left - and that's a very personal thing ( less is more etc etc ). Leave the oil paint to dry - now that depends on which oil paint you use , how much you've left on, and how impatient you are I then seal the model with a varnish layer ( airbrushed Tamiya X22 thinned with Mr Self Levelling Thinner, but in the past I've used acrylic varnish like Klear/ Future/ Quick shine too) And with luck - and practice- you now have a model with accentuated panel lines. Now for my personal prefs! .... .... I try and mix a wash colour which is just a little darker than the colour its going over - never ever "just black". My aim is to add interest and depth rather than "highlight" per se. Your tastes may differ - so do as you see fit; there's no right or wrong on this. Hope this helps - but shout if it doesnt. Jonners
  5. Morning, oil wash ( a medium grey on the silver, and a brown for the red areas) reveals the lovely surface detail, plus tones down the shine a little too! Jonners
  6. Perhaps a112 Sqd one? Sharkmouths are always popular!, or an Aussie one maybe? jonners
  7. And, just noticed, louvred cooling vents too So with these and the Aeroproducts prop ( plus a "Dallas" canopy where appropriate) we have an RAF / Commonwealth 'Stang out of the box. Jonners
  8. Gotta say that looks very nice! Can someone explain why the sprues show 2 fin options though - both with fillets? And two windscreens which "look" identical? Jonners - rather pleased he bagged a Red Roo Aussie P-51 decal set and recce conversion on eBay the other day, but also thinking of RAF MkIV's in Italy......
  9. "Sometimes a high price does not deliver great value" To be said in mock oriental mystic way of course. "Great value sometimes a high price delivers does not". To be said in a Yoda voice of course Jonners
  10. Hi Mark - thanks for that - I have GT's book somewheree- so should know that!!. Perhaps what I meant to say was the the NMF finish looks quite dull on the BW pics I've seen - so was this from. the rather harsh in theatre conditions? I'd hazarded a guess at Meiktila - I've often had luck when searching for stuff online going via location rather than squadron. Cheers Jonners
  11. Hi John - Have you tried.... You'd need to sign up - but it may be of use? Can you tell us your dad's name and where he was stationed with 79 squadron too - they moved about a bit! Just another thought - the T'Bolts that were stripped of paint back to their NMF always look very un-shiny in photos I've seen - so perhaps your dad didn't remember a "silver" one because it would have looked somewhat duller? Good luck on this - RAF T-bolts in the CBI is an interesting area of history - one which I enjoy too. cheers Jonners
  12. Fonderie Miniatures Expensive when new Expensive second hand Expensive on the soul to build Still the only way to get a Halifax, Hampden, F11F Tiger or a Bregeut Alize in 1/48th IM Plastic. One must suffer for ones art! Jonners
  13. Cor Mathy - thats really really nice ! One question - and its to do with kit not your fantastic modelling. Does the spine the kit extend too far aft towards the tail, and is it a bit humped? Looking at the real thing it seems as though the spine blends into the fuselage fully by the time it's just aft of mid wing chord leaving a flat area just in front of the fin, whereas on the model it looks like the spine is still slightly proud of the fuselage all the way back to the fin. is that just me? Still, notwithstanding - that is just about one of the nicest models I've seen. period. Jonners
  14. Hi All - I think iv enow found all the info there is on this machine - so armed with that - I will make a start! Jonners
  15. update - found the font - its called "Blockschrift für Flugzeuge" Jonners