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About dragonlanceHR

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  • Birthday 27/05/75

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  1. The asking price is a bit steep for that. There is a German company that makes 1/48 transparent fuselages for RC models, maybe a cheaper option for the muj bus conversion. Vedran
  2. Now where did I state that? Manufacturers sadly make mistakes, be it bad research or no research or whatever their reason is. You can buy kits blindly or make an informed choice, it's up to you. Vedran
  3. If Waroff's post above isn't enough, browse through this. http://www.geocities.jp/yoyuso/p51a/p51a-1.html I don't do 1/72, but I would double check the Brengun Yak-1 nose before committing my money. Vedran
  4. BD1944, send an e-mail to Jun Temma, he uses both data from manufacturers and his own photogeometry analysis. Below is the link for the English version of his equisite 1/72 FM-2 build. http://www.geocities.jp/yoyuso/fm2/fm2e-1.html Vedran
  5. So we're to blame, not the manufacturer? They messed up and for whatever their reason is, it was not the criticsm from modelers. Vedran
  6. I won't touch anything with gel time less than 10 minutes. Q1: Get the thinnest resin you can, consictency of milk or similar. Mix. Fill the mould. Vaccum. After a few seconds stop the vacuum and let the air in. This should first suck the air pocket into the resin and second backflush the resin into any cavity sou it can form a smooth unbroken skin. I do all my mixing in disposable plastic syringes. Open it, plug the bottom, pour in the A and B components, put the plunger back in, shake a few times until you get an uniform colour, squeeze into the mold. If any additional pigment is used, it gets mixed into the component A before the component B is added. Vedran
  7. I never degass the resin, only silicone rubber. As the parts don't need extra structural strength, pressurizing is enough to get a fully filled mould and smooth skin on the casting. Also, I like fast casting resins, gel time is barely long enough to fill all the moulds. Vedran
  8. Well, most of it looks self-inflicted Vedran
  9. I like it, since the person I spoke with at your stand at Moson said anything but the Caudron C.600 in 1/48 would be too expensive / would not sell :-) Bring them on. Vedran
  10. Mark, Karaya has the 1/48 Crusader available for ages. Vedran
  11. Thank you Laurent. KH + HAD it is. Vedran
  12. Those are some big "excepts". Is the cross section squarish or not? Vedran
  13. 1) old telephone cables, usb cables and in general the computer cabling (from a burned-out power supply, beware of the possible remaining charge in the condenser) are your friends. 2) always have several sizes. If you're gonna buy stuff, buy the lead wires used for making the fishing flies. Better modelling shops have pre-packaged smaller quantities, fishing shops should get you big rolls of the stuff. Re shops in London, the big H in Colindale? What they don't have they can order from the really big H in Lowestoft. If you can track them, Reheat had a great range of assorted PE bezels and switches, people used to make masters for resin sets with them. Vedran
  14. To the subject of drawings by Jun Temma, I had some correspondence with him regarding the Yak and LaGG technical manuals and original drawings, and he uses the original manufacturers data, esp. the ordinate tables, whenever possible. As to his research, he is very observant and meticulous. He even re-discovered the different F8F windshields :-) Vedran
  15. Because we had nothing useful to add to your colour comparisons? They have been noted, not ignored Vedran