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jmel

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  1. The Battelle gun gas diverter created a turbulent airflow immediately surrounding the gun muzzle in the hopes of dispursing gun gasses and preventing accumulation of the gases during gun firing. Many devices were fitted to many jets from many different squadrons. It was quickly found that use of the Battelle device caused severe cracking due to the vibration (pilots called it the "tickler") and were ordered removed. At the same time as the installation of the Battelle diverter, the gun muzzle shroud was modified into a two-piece panel. Unlike the Battelle device, this two-part shroud remains on the jets to this day. The gun gas fairings on the left side of the fuselage, beneath the cockpit, were removed from the jets beginning in 2003 (they were added very early in the Hog's career). The fairings interfered with airflow over the AOA sensor and confused the new IFFCC computer in some flight regimes. It was deemed easier to remove the vents than to rewrite the computer. If you haven't already seen it, this may help answer some of the A-10 questions. Jake
  2. But it is such a pretty airplane!! Come on, Mike, you know that is all that matters for a tactical jet!!! Jake
  3. Definitely true, but why limit our sights to only the FMS jets?? I wish the USAF would cut production of those silly little Raptors and buy some Block 60s!! Jake
  4. I've been struggling with an F-15E off and on for almost a year now. Each time I start to get bored with it I look over at Guy's AWESOME F-15E build and get my inspiration back. I just wish Tamiya had done a better job with the F-15C when they tried to re-use the molds from the F-15E. A lot of that kit needs some serious work to make an accurate F-15C. Jake
  5. I keep forgetting that the Hase kits don't have the heavy gear. Thanks, Mike! Jake
  6. The Block 50 and 52 are essentially the same aircraft. Use the P&W engine, cover it with carbon fiber decals, and then use the smallmouth intake from the CJ kit and you're in business. If you're doing a jet from the past 5 years or so, you'll need to scratchbuild the AIFF birdslicers in front of the canopy. These were added during the first round of the CCIP mods and all USAF Block 52s now have them. You'll also need to scratch the JHMCS sensor on the inside canopy rail for the same reason. Jake
  7. The only pod I know if in 1/32 is the Flightpath piece which is very pricey (~$25 each) in the US. Plus, one needs to scratchbuild a new centerline pylon. I think that would have been a great addition had Tamiya included one. jake
  8. Seems to be. Although I do see some on ANG Vipers occasionally. Colorado uses them pretty regularly. A lot of the test and/or training squadron use them, too. When I flew with the 85TES at Eglin, my jet had a -131 pod on it, while one other Viper in the flight had a -184. About half of the Hog units out there use them, too. I wonder why it is so much more common on A-10s? I think "got right" was a poor choice of words. I should have said "nice additions". The ALE-50 (although it seems too narrow) and calibration chart on the canopy, for example. And Tamiya's incorrect painting guide, which is obviously not a big deal. Jake
  9. I hope the wait is worth it. Although it is refreshing and encouraging that they seem to want to get it right and are willing to listen to the consumers. Jake
  10. Mike, the Block 50s still carry the ALQ-131 quite a bit. The 52FW at Spang uses them exclusively while at home. I don't see it as often as the -184, but it is definitely out there and used by many units. Jake
  11. Yes, I definitely agree. The DACO book is still a good book for Vipers. It's biggest problem, through no fault of its own, is that it is getting a bit outdated. A great addition to the library, though. The Eagle book is coming, but not soon enough. It took me so long to get that one finished that I'm getting antsy. The latest ETA I have is June 10 from the shipping company. Jake
  12. I think the old Monogram kit is the best, too. As Mike pointed out, it is the only kit with a flawless shape. Grab Shawn Hull's LASTE upgrade and you've got an A-10A. Do a bit of scratchbuilding, and you've got an A-10A+. I sent Shawn the photos of the A-10C cockpit and airframe mods and he's looking at doing a conversion. Jake
  13. Ha! Thanks, Mike. I appreciate the plug! I agree with this 400%. Academy did several things REALLY well with their Viper kit, and caught things that Tamiya missed. As you pointed out, the GBU-12s, TER, and decal sheet alone make it worth it to me to have several in my stash. These parts are great additions to the Tamiya kit. Jake
  14. I'm late to the game, but I'll add another vote for Tamiya. I've built 3 Hasegawas, 1 Academy, and, to date, 4 Tamiyas. Jake
  15. You'll need to add the JHMCS sensor on the inside of the left side canopy rail, as well. Also paint the EHSI as you would an MFD. With the power turned off at the jet, this acts just like an MFD. Both of these items were added to 91-0416 with CCIP. This jet now has the Have Glass paint coating, so you can make it downright nasty. If you haven't seen it, this book shows all of these details. Jake
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