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    • Mike

      Switched Identities   18/06/17

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Ben Brown

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  1. Sabrejet, Thank you for posting all of this fantastic information! Ben
  2. Hi Mike, The Welsh Q400 is all resin. I recently built their Dash-8-100, and found it to be a fun build. On the -100, the wing-to-fuselage fit wasn't very good, but it was easily fixed. The resin was a little softer than what they used to cast the CRJ I bought from them several years ago. It didn't seem to affect the structure at all, and it made it easier to fix the droop in the kit's wings. The landing gear struts are probably the same on both kits, and the mains are scary-flimsy, until you build them and attach them to the model. Then they make a much stronger structure. Compare the shape of the nacelles forward of the wing with pics of the real thing. I think Welsh's are too "squarish," for lack of a better word, don't taper down to the prop spinners enough, so the spinners appear undersized. Like others have said, Welsh's newer kits are a lot of fun. Even their vac kits are very good. The only reason I don't own more of them is they put a large dent in my modeling budget. Cheers! Ben
  3. Hi All, I'm happy to help! Mike, I used to fly into Myrtle Beach pretty often and spent some time walking around the closed Air Force base. It was sad to see the base turned into a ghost town. They had several gate guard aircraft still on the property. Hopefully, they all went to a good home. Ben
  4. Hi All, The top photo (one of mine! ) of 72modeler's post is an F-100D. The second one is an early D, and the third looks like an A or a C, because I don't see a break in the wing for the D's trailing edge flap. The F-100A, C, and early D all had the same single-piece inboard main gear doors that hung down vertically when opened. At some point (don't have the block # handy), they added the ability to carry a centerline store to the D. The inboard doors couldn't open all the way, because of the store, so they added a small, second door to the larger door, so the main gear tire would clear the door on retraction. Compare how far the doors are opened in this photo of a later F-100D with those in 72modeler's second F-100D photo. At the same time, the speed brake was modified with a wider cutout. All F-100Fs, except the F prototype, had the later type of inboard main gear doors and speed brake. I can't recall if any early Ds were retrofitted with the later-style door and speed brake. I'd have to check my notes. I think most, if not all, F-100Ds that went to the French AF still had the early gear doors. Going back to the original question, the Trumpeter F-100C inboard doors are the correct one-piece style, but they got the interior details of the doors wrong. They just molded the later D-style doors with the small doors closed. If that bothers you, you can always glue the doors closed. That would be a perfectly legitimate pose for an F-100. The inboard main gear doors doors, as well as the aft nose gear door, had to be manually opened, which was often done for for maintenance. They didn't start to droop under their own weight, as hydraulic pressure dropped, like you see on some aircraft. HTH. Ben (the F-100 nut)
  5. How about a 3-D-printed T-1A? I keep thinking about buying one, but I don't think I like Beechjets enough to spend 50 bucks on a 4-inch model of one. Ben
  6. Hi Fabio, Wow! Those wings and props don't really inspire one to buy the Welsh kit over the competition, do they? I found a vac version on eBay last week for less than half the cost of a Minicraft kit and it arrived a couple of days ago. It doesn't look too bad. I have a set of Aeroclub white metal props intended for the Revell kit that look like they'll work for the Welsh kit. I'll just need to trim them slightly, since they're ~1/140 scale. The white metal nacelle fronts that came with them look like they might fit, too. I think the vac wings and nacelles can be made to look a lot better than the resin ones, especially around the exhausts. Thanks for posting the photos! Ben
  7. Hi Martin, Unfortunately, I haven't seen those in kit form. Ben
  8. Hi Martin, I checked the manual and I don't see an MA-2 or MA-3 rack for the F-100. There was a Type III rack that was used to carry a nuke or a 450-gal drop tank on the intermediate wing pylon. I once made a set in 1/48 by extending some outboard pylons 1/4". If you are talking about rocket launcher pods, the pods mounted directly to the standard outboard pylons that are usually included in an F-100 kit. Here are some photos of rocket pods mounted to the standard outboard pylon. Look about 2/3 the way down the page. HTH. Ben
  9. Thanks!
  10. Can anyone comment on the Welsh vac kit? Is the shape any better than Minicraft's or Revell's? Thanks, Ben
  11. I can't speak to the dimensions of the Monogram F-105 and how it compares to whatever are considered accurate drawings, but I have stood under a 1/1 F-105 and compared a built Monogram kit to it. The Monogram kit captures the look of the real thing very well. The look of the nose isn't off as badly as some believe. The slightly undersized radome and the too-thick and off center pitot tube combine to make the nose look odd. As far as F-100s go, the late Dave Menard confirmed the old Monogram kit is the most accurate F-100 kit available, and Trumpeter's is a bit of a mess. He went so far as to measure the real thing. When Trumpeter released their 1/32 F-100D, he went over that one, too. I had the privilege of getting to know him via the Internet at the time, and we had a good time emailing back and forth, measuring this and that to see how the Trumpeter kit measured up. In the process, he discovered he had mistakenly claimed the Monogram 335-gal drop tanks were 1/4" too short. After measuring the real item, again, he found Monogram's were spot-on. For decent F-100 drawings, Dana Bell's in the Detail & Scale are pretty accurate, according to Dave. The Monogram kit does have its problems, but it's a better place to start for any version of the F-100, other than the YF-100 (Lindberg's is actually more of a YF-100). Ben
  12. I built the Revell kit several years ago. I used the clear cockpit part from a Daco 737 and the center intake from Authentic Airliners. The nose looks a lot better than the photo shows, and it definitely looks better than Minicraft's or Airfix's. Plan on lots of filling and sanding. The nose gear wheels are much too large and need to be replaced. Mine is in rehab, being rebuilt with the gear up. Ben Ben
  13. Rhino3401 on eBay sells a nice one one for $20US, but I don't see it listed right now. He isn't on eBay continuously, so you just have to watch for him to pop up. I see his stuff pretty regularly, though. You might try to contact him through this sale to see if he plans to put another batch of intakes up for sale any time soon: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-24-MFH-Model-Factory-Hiro-Porsche-962-C-Le-Mans-Works-85-86-87-K-133-/272281662875?hash=item3f6540759b:g:0XcAAOSwHF1XG~e4 The only other A-7 intake I'm aware of was from Cutting Edge. Since the equally-good Rhino intake is more or less available, I wouldn't spend more than ~$25US on a cutting Edge one. Ben
  14. Hi Will, The only decent replacement seat I've found for the Monogram kit is the old white metal one from Aeroclub. Legend apparently used Black Box's too-short seat as a reference. If you use a correctly-sized seat in either the BB or Legend pit you'll have to remove the raised part of the floor they had to add to raise their too-short seat. I think the seat from AMS was sized for the Trumpeter cockpit so the bottom part would be too long to fit a cockpit meant for Monogram. It's been years so I cant recall exactly why I went with the Aeroclub seat but I'm pretty sure it was because the AMS seat didn't fit the Legend pit. Sorry I can't give you a better answer but I'm away from my models on vacation right now. Cheers! Ben
  15. I just checked a few photos of FG.1s and it looks like they didn't have the light. Ben