AnonymousFY21

Yeah probably sensible really. Good tip. I use that for silicone sealant, didn't know it worked on Latex. As usual BM teaches me something again. rich

I'm sure a certain visitor will see to it that you don't , not that they make ninjas in that size . rich

Nice to see you back to modelling Dan, but I hate to point this out at a critical moment, it's a helicopter. Seriously it's good to see you back fettling the old plastic, and as always looking to see what magic you'll weave. rich

Look forward to it daktari. rich

Aren't we drifting a little away from daktari's original post? Right now to sit down with and .. I'll provide the beer Troffa, you the popcorn, fair? rich

I guess it's a possibility Vallejo have got it wrong! Please don't tell me you are relying on those photos that come from an unknown source, where we don't know if the white balance was correctly set. Not forgetting ambient light conditions on the day, and I'll bet you aren't using a calibrated monitor. The short of it is the pics cannot be used as a definitive reference, and as Mike has said Bobski knows this plane, so if he says it's Barley grey, it is! richc

Wouldn't arf look good yellow . rich

Tis an interesting question. I've done a bit more digging and it doesn't look as if ammonia will do it. It's used as an anti coagulant in liquid latex, not a solvent. One quote I found said that acetone doesn't work as his latex gloves survived. What he may not realise is the acetone will go almost straight through into his skin, and hence blood stream. Whoever it was needs to coma and work in our lab where latex gloves were used until H&S said we can't. The acetone made the gloves fall apart quite literally. Maybe I should have been clearer. The Latex does not re-dissolve, it just breaks down and can be gradually removed, but as I and Pigsty said, the brush isn't much use for anything other than masking fluid application again. I had the same brush I used for years in my previous modelling spat, just made sure it was cleaned after each use with cellulose thinners. richc

It's not on the site yet for some reason. A quick warning! Just checked it out in an editing program and it DOES NOT scale for 1/48th like all the others yet. I guess that's in the works before it appears on the site. rich

I've used cellulose thinners or acetone in the past to get the dried latex out. It's a tough messy job, and you must wear appropriate gloves (Nitrile, thick). To be honest the brush will never be much use for anything other than applying latex again. If you keep some cellulose thinners about and clean the brush straight away it will be usable over and over again for application of masking fluid, but very litle else. richc

Damn you Andy. You've done it again! Leave my wallet alone......... The sharks mouth intakes scheme is awesome, so I guess these are next on the list, along with the wheels. The only thing that concerns me is the fact the decals are matt. I have never had any luck with matt decals. They've always seemed to be made of cardboard with no adhesive properties whatsoever! Do you have any previous experience of this companies products? richc

Cheers for the review Mike. It's a nice little? kit isn't it. I'm just waiting for the E-2C+ with the Dowty blades. richc

Good God Shaun, I thought you'd been abducted! Nice to see you are still at it. looking very good there mate. Not too much to do now . rich

Certainly gets confusing all this re-boxing, especially when the same company re-boxes two different kits of the same subject at different times. rich

The Italeri one does indeed come with a full engine. It is very similar to the Gunze one in detail apart from the etch, just plastic really (and some huge sink marks in really bad places). The Revell one is the old Protar I believe, but the Italeri one was a unique kit. I have compared the Italeri and Revell ones and there is no way they can be the same. richc

Michael, is that some sort of mating ritual the rest of us are not familiar with? rich

Muppets.

Hmmm, after posting I dug out some refs and you are right. The one I did find looked as if the anti slip was two inches thick and the numbers hadn't worn through, but that was double digit. However a very old pic, mid eighties or so and the tractor was yellow. rich

A question as much as a suggestion. The 35 marking is painted on a rough surface, and if walked on the paint would wear away on the peaks giving a speckled finish. UNLESS of course it's painted very thickly, hence the question part. I guess some of the ex USN guys on here would know. rich

Well thanks very much! I've been holding off from ordering one, now I'll damn well have too. Looks very good mate, can't wait to see the armour master at work weathering it. rich

Coming along Mish. One word of warning. I see you haven't put the burner can in. This is a tight fit and if you are unlucky the rear fuselage will split underneath. Ask me how I know . What you can do is trim some of the detail away from the petals nearer the inside end (does that make sense?), as the whole can drops a long way into the fuselage. I also ended up using some 10 thou plasticard and bridging the gap internally about 5,mm from the exit point on the bottom. This seems to have cured the splitting on mine. richc

Nice kit isn't it, shame about your masking technique . rich

Damn good question Daz. Anyone really know, before the a/c gets slagged off for its age? richc

Should be fine mark. Worked for me both with Safari on a Mac and IE on Win XP. It is a little slow to appear even on our Uni network, so maybe you didn't wait long enough. richc

Yep, too big Mike. If it had come in smaller component form it may have been possible. But the sputter coat is very delicate and can't really be handled, so not the best choice here anyway. rich