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About Spiny

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  1. Honda S600

    Now that the Cuda is finished, it's time to move onto my next project. I'm not sure if there will be much interest in it - my MO is to build straight from the box and take a long time over doing it. So this weekend, I made a start on Tamiya's Honda S600. Well, that's almost correct as since the weather warmed up I have been doing the necessary spraying of the body and other body coloured items. But this was the weekend when I made a start on assembly, albeit a very slow start. From what I can gather, the kit has a good reputation, and I can't really disagree. But what really strikes when you first open the box is that this thing is tiny. To demonstrate, both the Corvette and the S600 in the pic below are 1/24, and the rear end lines up on both cars. IMG_6396 Closer examination reveals very little in the way of mould lines, so I presume they are concealed within the chrome strips which will run along the body. What mould lines there are are generally pretty small and not very noticeable. So not noticeable in fact that I completely missed one that runs along the corner of the boot lid until after I'd primed the body. Having resanded that bit, I had to respray the back of the car which has meant that instead of having the body in the intended colour, that and the bonnet will have to wait a couple of weeks. Other body colour items have the colour coat on now, so hopefully I can get the clear on before too long. IMG_6395 This is where things stand at the moment, very early days. I still haven't even got the second coat of aluminium paint on the enginem and only have the block glued together. Not a lot else really, so I guess this is a good point to leave it.
  2. A good looking end result, and I for one am happy to see it here, but even if it didn't look so good, to my mind the bolded bit above is the most important aspect of any model
  3. Thank you, good of you to say and glad you like it. For the photography, I'm lucky in that I had all the bits apart from the light tent to be able to get a decent 'studio' set up. So it was just a case of putting the camera on a mini-tripod about 2-3 feet from the car, setting the car onto a mirror tile on top of the old Tamiya 959 box in the tent, then setting the aperture as narrow (highest f-stop) as possible to get the best depth of field. Fortunatley, my camera has a manual setting to allow me to play with the aperture and shutter speed - I need that tripod as most of the pics apart from the sunny ones have shutter speeds in excess of a second. I'd love to be able to claim credit for the spoons but unfortunately I can't. It's one of those things you find trawling the internet, and I can't even remember where to give the credit where it's due. In terms of the primer, the best advice I can give is stick with one if you have one which works for you (as it looks like your camper van does). I forgot to say that when I spray paint, I soak the can in warm water for abut 15 mins before using to heat it up and get a better pressure, and also that I tend to leave 15-20 mins between layers. And for the wax, that one wasn't from Halfords, but from Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003JJ3GX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Glad to have been of help.
  4. I wasn't sure at first, but the more I look at it, the better that matt finish looks - it gives it a nice weathered appearance. Almost a shame you straightened out the mirror - give it a coat of aluminium or "silver" paint and it would have really suited the car (in my opinion anyway). Great end result - hope you're proud of it.
  5. Tamiya Porsche 959

    I'll try to live up to expectations then. Sounds as though we're on a similar part of the pathway to returning to modelling as my last one was in 1991, and have done 4 cars on my return, and a 2-Spitfire plus one Lancaster which was picked up going to the Hornby Museum with some friends' kids - those are not quite so good. I think you have me beat on building at the very least, so I hope you put the 993 up as well as the Jag - will look forward to seeing it.
  6. I must admit that most of my learning process was from picking up bits of advice from here and from around the internet. There's lots of great paint jobs which I see other people have done, and I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing things. But here is my system. I'm afraid it is quite long-winded, not great if you're in a rush and I usually start painting before I begin the build. First step is to decide on the colour, and then test the layers together to make sure they don't react as I often break the cardinal rule of not mixing brands and would much rather not ruin a model with reacting paints. I bought a pack of cheap plastic spoons, and spray the primer, colour coat and clear coat on the back separated by about a week each. If they don't react, we're good to go. When it comes to painting, I spray in a storage box in the garage which acts as my spray booth. I try to spray when the temperature is between 10-25 degrees C and humidity less than 70% which unfortunately all but rules out spraying in winter. So I have to get ahead of target with the body shells in summer to let me keep building through winter. Then for each layer of paint, I employ what I tend to think of as the 2-2-2 method: at least two mist coats (enough to give a light mist on the surface, but not to provide a full change of colour in one layer), then two wet coats to build up that paint layer. The last "2" is the time-consuming one - wait two weeks for the layer to fully cure before the next one. Probably overkill, but I prefer to play safe. First layer on I use Halfords primer. That probably won't help you in the Netherlands, but it's car primer so if you have a suitable on over there which doesn't melt the plastic that could work - just try on some old sprue first to make sure! At least two weeks later, it's on with the colour coat which will often tell you which is the best colour primer to use. I tend to use grey primer for dark colours such as the Porsche, and white for lighter colours such as this Cuda. No real hard-and-fast rule for which colours I use - the Porsche is Halfords Volvo 442 Dark Grey while the Cuda uses Humbrol Lime Green. After about a week, I'll add on decals and put a Humbrol wash on the panel lines - black for dark cars and dark grey for lighter paints. Two weeks on from the colour coat, and it's onto the clear coat which, so far, has been Revell clear gloss spray for me. I like that it gives a good shine, but it does react with the oils in your fingers and develop finger prints in the finish if you're not careful, so from now on it's a case of wearing cotton gloves when handling the body if at all possible. If there are any obviously raised blobs in the paint after any of the first two layers, I'll give it a rub over there with 1000 grit sandpaper, otherwise I just move onto the next coat. Now all the paint is on, and the clear coat has had two weeks to dry, I attack it with Micromesh. Generally, I only use the 4000grit where there are runs, so assuming I did a good job of spraying I start with the 6000grit which will take off some of the shine, but also smooths out any orange peel. You can use 4000grit here, just be careful you don't go through the paint. Then it's onto the 8000 and finally the 12,000grit paper by which time you should have a good shine. For the Cuda, I got some 3000/12000 grit sanding sticks which allows me to get into more corners while reducing the risk of skinning the creases and edges on the body. With the sanding sticks, I dry sand while for the Micromesh I tend to wet sand with water as lubricant. You can usually feel when you have got the finish ready with a particular grit after the first one as you will feel the friction reduce. Almost there now, and I for the Porsche and Cuda I used Tamiya Fine (not Finish) polishing compound. I had thought that the 12,000 grit on it's own gave a nice shine, but the polishing compound does seem to add that bit of depth to the paintwork - and further proof for me was that it's these two cars which people have given good feedback on rather than the Mustang and Corvette which didn't get the compound. Last step is to add wax. After a bit of trial and error, I've ended up with Dodo Juice Blue Velvet which is a wax for 'real' cars. It's a hard carnauba wax which comes in a very small tin and at £6.99 seems expensive for the size, which is meant to do a car 3 or 4 times. But, for a model car, it's perfect and gives that last little bit of depth. I hope that you find that helpful, even if you can't get the exact products in Holland I'm sure there are similar ones out there. And that's to everyone that commented on the car, I'm glad you liked it
  7. Revell's 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda brings me bang up to date as I've just finished it over the weekend. Not perfect, but I think I am getting better. Incidentally, although it might look as though I have used zero imagination (OK, I did use zero imagination!), I did the car lime green because that's the colour I think suits it best, and built the stock rather than custom model for personal preference. Overall, this is a very nice kit which goes together very well with the exception of the rear valance (more on that later). There are mould lines on the body, but apart from the ones on the A-pillars they are positioned so as to be easy to sand off. The main downside is actually on the instructions where there are a few places which call for the body colour when they should actually be coloured differently. In fact, I inadvertedly got to try out my paint stripping skills on the dashboard which is listed as body colour, but when I did some research turned out to be the interior colour. Lesson learned - do your research before painting, not after So, first up the engine bay. It all went together much better than I was expecting it to with no real issues, even when it came to fitting the body around it. Sadly (sadly?! nothing sad about it), most of it is hidden by the enormous shaker scoop which I ended up rather obviously brush painting, although the camera has enhanced the brush strokes a lot. IMG_6380 Unfortunately, the shape of the car meant it was difficult to get a decent pic of the interior. All down to Plymouth on that score, not Revell for the model nor Canon for the camera. These are the best I could manage IMG_6381 IMG_6383 Onto the exterior, and I might as well get the worst bit out of the way first. The rear valance just doesn't seem quite right. It has to be added on after the body has been mated to the chassis, but the hollows to accommodate the rear cart springs are slightly too wide apart. I hollowed them out further to get it to fit a little bit better, but didn't dare go any further in case I went through the plastic. So it doesn't sit quite right (only by about 0.5mm, but it's enough) and that has meant that the exhausts don't quite go in right either. At least being below the bumper, it's only noticeable if you go looking for it. IMG_6384 The front went together much better. The only real issue was that the bonnet appears to have warped slightly which shows up from some angles, and not too much from others. I thought I had it straightened out before fitting to the car, but it appeared to refind it's warp overnight. At least it's not too major. IMG_6385 Going to be lazy now, and just put up a load of pics from around the car. Incidentally, the bit on the first photo which looks like a run isn't, it's just a badly located reflection of the light tent. Window trim is done using the magic Molotow pen - I haven't done any foiling at all and with the way the pen performs I doubt I will IMG_6387 IMG_6388 IMG_6389 IMG_6392 IMG_6393 IMG_6394 And finally, I gave it a chance to chill in the sunshine in the conservatory. Thanks for looking - time for me to move onto something Japanese I think IMG_6377
  8. I'm not really a fan of the custom look, but that one is just a bit special. Great job
  9. Tamiya Porsche 959

    Thanks for the advice, I will definitely remember that in future. Looks as though I second guessed myself, so will do more in the way of assembly on future projects.. I must admit that I am still very much on the learning curve when it comes to model building having only recently got back into the hobby, and taking much more time and care than I did when I was a kid. This model is my third spray paint job, and first one where I added polishing compound into the mix (between the 12,000 Micromesh and the Dodo Juice), so your comments are both kind and encouraging. Glad you like it. I have to admit that sunlight really seems to make paintwork 'pop', hence why I took the self-indulgent pic. I must admit that until you mentioned them, I hadn't even noticed those seams - good job they're hidden away now as otherwise they'd sit there bugging me. On the bright side, they're not so obvious in real life so I guess this really is a case of the camera reveals all. I think I will need to take up your advice about the sanding sticks as at the moment I'm going through a stash of old emery nail files and they're not really precise enough for the small bits. I did get the Ultimate Thinny buffing sticks which seem pretty good apart from not being suitable for wet sanding, so I think the next tools to purchase will be some of their sanding sticks. Certainly, if your XJ220 is anything to go by, the case for sanding sticks is very strong...
  10. Revell VW Samba 1/16

    Looks good, I'm particularly impressed by that front. Personally, I haven't got onto doing a two-tone paint yet so can't add anything to that other than well done. I'd say 'ridge' is perfectly fine to use for that piece - certainly I can't think of a better term As for stripping paint, again I only have very limited experience. But from the little bit I have done, I've found that the best way was to soak in IPA for an hour or two, then rub down the softened paint with an old toothbrush, then soak again. Keep going until you have the paint off. I found when I soaked it for a while without brushing, it didn't strip any easier so I presume that the IPA can only penetrate the outside few microns on paint and doesn't get down to the base, hence why the toothbrush seemed to be a necessity,
  11. Assuming your photo is of a truly excellent red number, I'd say your Flickr test is successful
  12. I think this just goes to back up the comment in my 959 thread that you are a master of your craft. Great result, especially when you compare it with the box art and your real car.
  13. Tamiya Porsche 959

    Very kind of you to say so, but I do have a confession - it's not black paint. It's actually Halfords Volvo dark grey with a Revell top coat and a load of polishing to improve the shine. I have no idea what the German equivalent would be, but from the projects I've seen of yours you're pretty much a master when it comes to both painting and building.
  14. Tamiya Porsche 959

    Thank you, although I must admit that I have a sneaking suspicion that the build issues may be more down to my lack of skills than the kit
  15. Completed this one end of last year, so it's my most recent completed build (I build slowly, even though I build as the kits come). The kits goes together pretty well, apart from a few minor bits which I'll mention as I go through the pics. Hard to believe the kit is over 30 years old - it's much better than the Corvette I did before it. I'll start with the engine bay. Sadly, this is the only time it will be seen as there were 'negative clearance' issues with the lid so I had to superglue it down to stop it popping up half a millimetre or so. I'm not sure whether that is down to an issue with the kit or with my building skills. Certainly it was also a tight fit getting the body over those exhaust pipes too. IMG_6328 A couple of pics of the interior, because this is where a lot of the careful painting is needed with those seats. The seats and that red in the engine bay were my first attempts at mixing paint so I'm quite pleased with how that came out. Unfortunately, in getting the body on, I managed to dislodge the right-hand-side glass, so had to stick it back on using a paintbrush handle through the windscreen hole as that goes on later. All things considered, I can live with that small gap near the A-pillar (it only shows up on the camera anyway). IMG_6329 This pic below also shows the line around the rear spoiler where it joins the boot (bonnet?) lid. I was in two minds as to whether to join the spoiler and fill the join before painting and risk having poor paint coverage in the gap, or to fit the spoiler after painting and have that line between the two which doesn't exist on the original. If it had been silver as most of these seem to be then I would probably have gone for the first option, but as I'd chosen a dark colour I figured the join wouldn't show as much. But if anyone has any tips for this sort of thing, I'd be glad to hear from you. IMG_6342 Finally, a set of pics from around the car. The original plan was to use Revell's matt anthracite, but I ended up with a can with almost no internal pressure so it just spattered on the side. I had to sand back the paint on the side of the car and on the (front!) bonnet, then reprime. With the colder weather approaching, I decided to change to Halfords paint for the colour coat for time reasons which has given me the effect I was after. IMG_6335 IMG_6336 IMG_6339 IMG_6340 The view from the front. The Tamiya instructions call for a silver surround to the headlights, and show that on the box so I followed the instructions. But, they should really be body colour so that is a little bit annoying. Not the end of the world though, just wish I'd checked first. IMG_6344 And the view from the back with the engine cover fitted. So now, the engine is only visible from underneath or through the grille. IMG_6345 And finally, this is it when the sun gets on it. IMG_6366 I bought the kit because it was a car I like, and as an added bonus it's also cheap so it wouldn't matter if I messed it up. Looking inside, I was expecting a quick build as there didn't seem to be too many parts, but the interior painting slowed me up a bit. However, in the end, I'm happy as it represents another step forward for my modelling skills. Hope you all like it too.