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About Getunderit

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  1. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    The actual bridge motor is in the middle of the hut (inside). It drives two winch drums located just outside the lateral sides of the hut - in those same size boxes on the opposing balconies. They drive the tower pulley wheels. The cable to these wheels is much lighter because of the counterweights. The cables to both counterweights and span are both thick and there are four in parallel on each side (they bare the weight of both the span and counterweight. _________________________________________________ to continue: I discovered before installing the towers that once they are in, the span cannot be removed for repairs. There won't be enough room to pass above the pulley wheels. So I cut off the lateral bumper rollers (the hidden side) and replaced them with removable ones.
  2. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    The speed is an illusion. I came late to this wonderful forum and currently in the last half of the project. I am posting images on a daily basis to catch up to where I am at. Hope you do come to Australia, especially at this time of year _ it's warmer.
  3. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thanks Gorby. Created traffic lights with large 5 mm LEDs (easier to see from a behind point of view). They turned out over scale, but I am sure the Ballina Museum can live with it.
  4. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Added gangway and painted the towers.
  5. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    That would be a lark. It's bad enough having a slot boat track. In all honesty, this project is the most complicated thing I have ever done. There seems to be a lot to consider. One has an idea of what to build, but as it unfolds other aspects emerge that cannot be ignored. Each part in itself is a design problem to nut out. Often it cannot be done without considering other parts not yet designed or built. Some nights I cannot sleep. I am still trying to solve design problems. Then I have to get back to the desk, write some notes and sketches until I feel that I have taken a few steps forward. Then I can go back to sleep. Mind you, I often come up with some good solutions that way, but it is a headache at times. I am saying all this because I just had this happen last night.
  6. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thanks @clive_t, @Sgt.Squarehead, and @Corsairfoxfourunclefor your likes. The towers are not actually in place in these photographs. They are just positioned to see how it will look, and how close the span bumpers would get to the towers. The towers have to be installed at the same time as the road surface.
  7. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    @Sgt.Squarehead, @Gorby, @JOHN W, for 'likes'. @stevehnz, if you wish, and others too, before visiting the museum give them a call and request that I be there when you arrive. It would be good to meet fellow modellers. to continue: Designing and constructing the pulley brackets.
  8. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Hi Steve. Hope the bridge will be finished and working by then For the Aussie, 100-150 kilometer (1-1.5 hr) drive is not unusual or seen as too far away. Distance is relative I suppose. I like cycling and do about 300 kms per week. One day a week I ride 100 kms, which is equivalent from Ballina to the Queensland border. Besides that, the Ballina Naval and Maritime Museum has a huge collection of scratch-built vessels, and all sorts of real stuff. For a modeller, it can take a few hours to see it all. So be prepared for a day's outing.
  9. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    I am assuming you are referring to sweat-soldering the washers together. If so, this is what happens. There are two ways that I know about sweat-soldering. One method is to apply a thin coat of solder on the surface of the washers that are intended to touch each other. Then rest the washers on top of each other and apply enough heat for remelting the solder, which in turn welds the washers together. The method I used was simply to put a piece of soldering wire between the washers and heated the whole lot in one go. My thinking was that the one-go method contains flux in the joining part as well as heating the solder once. As you may know, reapplying heat to solder, without flux, gets dry by oxidation (a bit brittle). Hope this helped.
  10. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thanks @stevehnz, and @Sgt.Squarehead for 'likes'. The pulley wheels I wanted were too expensive (to buy ten of them). So I came up with an alternative by solder-sweating different sized washers together. My first attempt had too much solder, but got it right after that.
  11. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Doweling the framework. I was surprised that over 11 metres of framework went into the towers.
  12. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thank you fellow modellers for your reactions. @Sgt.Squarehead, the bridge was built in 1964. Thanks for informing me about the XXX Corps, I had to Google them to find out what you were talking about. That is what I like about this forum, plenty of stuff to learn from. @stevehnz, I am not sure why the bridge operators hut was on the span. Perhaps to be in the centre to see both sides of the passing vessel. Also perhaps to get a birds-eye view once the span is raised (one could see what else was coming around the nearby river bend. Originally, the span had no traffic lights for the vessels and the operator went out onto the balcony to signal the boat to pass under. When I interviewed the current operator, he told me that the hut had an upside down periscope. It was to make sure both vehicle and pedestrian traffic was clear before unlocking the bridge span. Today it has closed circuit television. When the bridge was first built, there was more river traffic happening, especially for hauling logs and earth. The area is primarily used for sugar cane growing, and barges full of sugar cane were towed by a steamer. I know the barges would have no trouble getting under the bridge, but I am still not sure about the steamers used. The tug shown below ought to be able to pass under the bridge (especially on low tide). These days it is rare to see the bridge actually used for tall boats. I think the bridge still gets a regular (once a month) exercise in bridge raising - without having a boat to go under it.
  13. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thanks fellow modellers for thumbs up. to continue:Since the console interior is to be another diorama, I decided to add a touch of drama by adding Power Status Indicators. Each DC voltage source has two LEDs. Green for all okay; Red for 'blown fuse'. Also cleaned up the terminal strips and made new set of printed numbers (1-60) for them. Then I installed the Power Supply Unit into the console. At this stage, the console was at the museum. To cut down on double handling, I got the console delivered to my place.
  14. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thank you @JOHN W, @Gorby, @Badder, and @Derek A, for thumbs up. Used 3 mm MDF board, 2 mm clear Perspex, and white card to build the hut walls. I was surprised how well the Perspex can give that glass window effect (slight reflection and parallax error). The four tabs at top of walls is for positioning the roof. Added split bamboo skewers for railings, and fly screen for mesh. Started to paint the span with a home mixed, Bridge Grey oil enamel. Found some washers that fit over the LED nav; lights. Now they look more like beacons. Added railings for the road and footpath. Gave that a paint. Will paint road later. To be honest, at this point of model making I felt really good on how the span turned out.
  15. Working Lift Bridge Diorama

    Thanks @John_W for thumbs up. And thanks @Gorby for compliment. Photograph of the bridge's bumper rollers. Built another set of four bumper rollers but for lateral movement this time. Only used the rollers from the microswitch actuators this time. Added the vessel traffic lights to the centre of the span. There are several containers on the balconies. These are made from block timber and painted. Here they are drying on my window sill.