BuffaloModeler

Can anyone supply me with or point to detailed flight deck pictures of Richmond-class frigates? I'm completing my Super Lynx and would like it mounted on a flight deck. Thanks very much John Z Buffalo, New York, USA

Holy Shmoley's....have you considered writing a book on the subject???? Thank you so much for this information and it seems my naievete is showing....now to get cracking on my research. You guys are the BEST!

Wow! Clear answers! Thanks everyone...I really appreciate it. Blighty as in "Take me back to dear, old Blighty..."??? I think the UK would be a great place to live (coming from someone who's never been!). My sister was stationed in Holy Loch in the '80's on one of our sub tenders and has returned to visit several times...she would love to move over to you good folks! Anyone who appreciates REAL FOOTBALL is tops in my book Thanks very much, Tony!

So...would it look horribly different than the American version? From what I've been able to see with references, I honestly can't see a difference...but I am getting old. Any opinion about the Harrier/Sea Harrier? Thanks for taking the time to answer my stupid questions.

Hello, Would anyone be willing to describe the differences between American and British versions of these aircraft? (Or provide a link in that direction). I would prefer to build the the RAF, RN versions of these planes and kits are not readily available to me. In other words, would I be laughed at if I applied British markings and paint on US versions? Confused in America (oxymoron) John Z Buffalo, New York

Very succinctly put...thanks!

So, it's as simple as careful measuring? Hmm. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees. Thanks very much! I'll give it a shot and I'll let you know how it goes.

Can anyone describe their method of aligning the vertical struts on WWI biplanes, please? I've a Roden SE 5a in 1/48th that is giving me fits. Any help is appreciated or, point me in the right direction will work as well. Thanks a lot John Z

Hi Edgar, I looked up the brand of lacquer thinner I use on the internet (brand name Parks) and read the MSDS. Gasoline has a flash point of -45 deg. F. What this means is that these liquids are giving off enough vapors at those temperatures to form a flammable mixture with the air. All that is required is the correct fuel to air mixture and an ignition source. Since I don't use any open flames in my workshop, and I do provide plenty of ventilation, and I prefer to use acrylics, AND my wife pitches a real bitch when I do use these liquids, I think I'm pretty safe. I just never thought of combining white spirit and cellulose thinner before like Dahut suggested in his post yesterday.

Adding a small amount (10%) of lacquer thinner to mineral spirits will allow enamels to dry faster. I'm not a chemist, but will adding a "highly" flammable liquid (flash point 5 deg. F) to another flammable liquid (flash point 100 deg. F) in this proportion reduce the risk of fire. Since my model room is typically set at 70 deg. F, I would have to add heat to this mixture to get a flammable vapor to be produced....correct? Provided there are no open flames or sparks of course.

Thanks very much! As you can see I was wrong in my guess. My wife wanted to know what the fire extinguisher was for...now I can put it back in the garage. Happy modeling.

My favorite modeling magazines come from the UK and I've come across some terms I'm hoping someone will translate for me. What are: 1. White spirit 2. Cellulose thinner I'm guessing that one is alcohol and the other enamel thinner? Sorry, but I was born on the wrong side of the ocean! Thanks very much! John Z

I'm limited in my area (Buffalo, New York) to Tamiya, Model Master (Testor's) and Polly Scale acrylics. I've found that thinning Tamiya acrylics with rubbing alcohol (from the drugstore/chemist) works just as well as their own thinner (20A) and a lot less expensive. Also, I've thinned Testor's with their own thinner with great success and also with household ammonia based window cleaner (Windex here in the US). If you're spraying a small amount (i.e. an airbrush cupful) I use no more than 1 DROP ONLY of the thinner/Windex..Any more than that and I get what happened to you...runs, specks, etc. With Polly Scale, I strictly use Windex, again, no more than 1 drop per cupful. I have a Badger 155 Anthem double-action airbrush which I typically run all the above paints through at 12 to 15 psi. I think that if you apply a good primer coat, don't over thin your acrylic paints and be patient and make multiple misting passes, you will get nice smooth coverage with yellows, reds and whites...those typical colors which make me wonder why I do this for fun sometimes! John Z

Sorry if this is reply is a bit late, but I've found that using household ammonia to strip chrome will work in about fifteen minutes. It is quite irritating to breathe so keep it in a closed container. I use a resealable plastic tub and the ammonia can be used over and over again. I even use it to clean acrylic paint off of my brushes. Hope this helps.