shortCummins

thanks Dave it looks reasonably straight forward to scratch the Gee receiver and indicator units, I've found a Wiki page that has details and photos... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gee_(navigation) this should be fun! rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks for the info Dave if I'd had these photo before I would have place the firewall in its "proper" place however I followed the Eduard instructions and it would mean bending the PE in a way that it wasn't designed which, knowing my luck, would probably result in damaging it!? by the time the landing gear is in place you'll not see too much od this detail anyway? thanks for the photo's I've stored them for future reference should I attempt the same sort of detail again 👍 rgds John(shortCummins)

The ribs that I’d removed when the forward bulkhead was replaced were added with plastic strips. Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer was used to uniform the PE and plastic parts… …MrColor 364 aircraft gray green was used for the internal colour. Other PE was added to the crew hatch… Next I’ll be “fine tuning” the ribs, detail painting and weathering the wheel wells. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks chaps I clean the airbrush each time I used it, needle and nozzle removed of paint and wiped with airbrush cleaner, the nozzle is cleaned with "dentist tapers" dipped in cleaner. the airbrush is completely stripped and given a "sonic bath" typically at the end/start of each build. replacing the needle & nozzle has made the airbrush behave perfectly so that is where the issue lies, I'm guessing that one of the sealant rings, either nylon or rubber, have somehow degraded? rgds John(shortCummins)

You can see from this photo the issue with my airbrush after a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer was applied… …the “over-splatter”, not even over-spray, was considerable and would have made any sort of controlled spraying virtually impossible. The Eduard photo etch set has arrived from Hannants so as per the instructions the (kit) front bulkhead was removed… …and the PE version installed… …other PE pieces were added to the rear bulkhead… Next I’ll be adding paint to the wheel wells. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

Thanks to Martin at air-craft.net my airbrush spares have arrived and I’ve “tested” the new parts by giving the QuickBoost exhausts a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer, followed by a coat of Xtreme Metal AK480 dark aluminium… …then a light coat of Xtreme Metal AK 484 burnt metal… …AK light rust was used to give a rusty appearance… …followed by a mix of MrWeathering Color multi black and white dust. Once the additional aftermarket arrives I’ll continue with the nacelles. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

thank you I thought it would be a bit different from fully retracted and meant that I didn't have to cut up/off the rear wheel covers as they are moulded open. rgds John(shortCummins)

I’ve had an issue with my airbrush, for some reason its not passing air through the nozzle, its been cleaned, I tend to clean the needle and nozzle after every session and give them a sonic bath after I finish the paint part of each build. So I’ve ordered a new needle and nozzle which should arrive in the next few days. While I’m waiting for the airbrush spares I did a little research on 143 squadron, from Wiki. No. 143 Squadron RAF was a Royal Air Force Squadron formed as a fighter unit in the First World War and reformed as an RAF Coastal Command fighter and anti-submarine unit in the Second World War. History Formation and the First World War No. 143 Squadron Royal Flying Corps was formed on 1 March 1918 and became a unit of the Royal Air Force a month later, but it disbanded on 31 October 1919 having operated the Sopwith Camel and Sopwith Snipe. Reformation in the Second World War The squadron reformed in June 1941 as a coastal command long range fighter unit based at RAF Aldergrove unit and equipped with the Bristol Beaufighter. It was then stationed in Scotland, Northern Ireland and East Anglia and employed on anti-shipping missions. It re-equipped with the de Havilland Mosquito and was disbanded on 25 May 1945. I’ve also had a look at some other aftermarket and decided to get the following… Eduard PE Master pitot and machine guns sets The Eduard PE set contains some “improvements” for the nacelles, that I want to make use of, especially the mud guards, there is quite a bit for the cockpit, I’m not sure how much I’ll be using for the cockpit, I’ve also got the Kits-World 3D instrument panels, I’ll have to make a decision on which parts to use. Next, once the postman arrives, I’ll be continuing with the nacelles. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

Having completed my build(s) for this GB (Me-262) and the P-51 Mustang group build far quicker than I thought I would, and having really enjoyed both, I thought I’d chance my arm and enter another “twin”, this time one of my favourite aircraft a Mosquito. I’m not convinced that I’ll be able to complete this by the deadline but I’ll have ago. The kit I’ll be torturing with be the Tamiya 1/48 Mosquito FB Mk.VI/NF Mk.II… …I’ve not seen this scheme done that often and I thought it would be something a little different… I came across this photo that I’ll be using for reference. Here are the sprue and aftermarket shots… After market. Next unusually, as per Tamiya’s instructions, I’ll be starting with the nacelles. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks Andrés thanks Farmerboy its a shame that most "modern" kits don't have pilots and/or crew included and also there isn't a lot of choice of aftermarket figures, most of them are "standing" figures rather than seated thank you dnl42 ha ha, thanks Pete I'd previously done a couple of NMF Mustangs and wanted to do a camo' version, there was a camo/shark-mouth flying at Blackbush a few years ago and I though at the time it would be interesting to have a go, also the grey and greens being different from the "normal" RAF scheme I though was an interesting twist. thanks Kelly9mm thanks Keith if Eduard gave you the option of a "closed" rear wheel then this build would have been very different, having said that I'm really happy with how it looks, I'll be doing more of the same pose on different aircraft in the future. thanks georgeusa thanks GStreet its something that I plan on doing more of for future builds thanks Mark I think my weathering is far more restrained for this build, than I normally do, and I think/hope I've found a "happy medium" for making the aircraft look used but not too abused? rgds John(shortCummins)

ha ha thanks John, perhaps I should have used a longer acrylic rod 😁, but now she's definitely tacking off! thank you Patrice and thank you for facilitating this GB, I've really enjoyed following along with everyones builds and picking up some interesting ideas that I know I'll use in future builds thanks Mark I made plenty of mistakes and "things" could have been done differently/better but overall I'm very pleased with the result, I'll definitely be building more "in flight" aircraft in the future thanks James I've built both the Tamiya and Eduard versions of the P-51D and think that probably the Eduard kit is, slightly, the better, but its a close thing thanks Gerard I've really enjoyed the GB, there are some really interesting schemes and useful techniques on display thanks Harry thanks George I've learnt so much from this forum and hopefully someone will see what/how I've done "something" and will either try my technique or, even better, adapt it to make their version and share with the rest of us Thanks djktrumpet thanks Craig the whole build has gone both quicker and smoother than "normal", this is the 3rd build I've completed this year, very very fast for me and I guess shows what you/I can do with a decently engineered kit, long may it continue best rgds John(shortCummins

Here’s my attempt at Eduard’s splendid 1:48 P-51D I’ve a pilot figure from CMK and the scheme, aircraft codes and insignia were from a Montex mask set. Paint: MRP Tamiya vallejo Xtreme Metal MrColor Weathering: 502 Abteilung oils MrWeathering color Here are the photo’s… You can read my build log over on the P-51 Mustang STGB… https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235138194-148-eduard-p-51d-saaf/ until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

Here’s my attempt at Eduard’s splendid 1:48 P-51D I’ve a pilot figure from CMK and the scheme, aircraft codes and insignia were from a Montex mask set. You can read my build log here… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

So I’m calling this done, I’ve posted some RFI photos in the gallery. Here’s a sneak peak… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks James

The mask was removed from the windscreen… …and the canopy fitted… [ …the radiator covers were nailed in place… …and the wheels glued in an opening or closing pose… …the prop fixed to the front of the aircraft. Originally I was going to use some square brass but thought square clear acrylic would be better?, this was cut to length and fixed in the hole… …and the aircraft placed on the “rod”. So I’m calling this one done, next I’ll be taking the RFI photos. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

I’d been wondering what to use for the base, I had toyed with the idea of using a picture frame or building a “box/plinth” however I found a piece of wood that could be cut to the size I needed, so it was out with the saw, the piece was sanded and an “oversize” hole drilled to take the square rod, I’ll fix the rod with some Araldite later. Ultimate primer (Stynylrez) was used to paint the wood base… As I want to portray the aircraft either just after taking off or coming in to land, I thought it would be appropriate to have the top of the base show some grass at the end of the runway? For some previous builds I’d collected and dried some earth, this was fixed to the base with some diluted PVA glue… …static grass was then added… …along with some “tufts”… Next I’ll be adding with remaining bits and pieces to the aircraft. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks Chris the photos don't really show the exhaust stains to their best, I'm sure that the more I do them the better they'll get and hopefully I be able to photograph them better, I really like the effects you've managed so hopefully one day I'll get similar results 👍 thanks Craig I want to try and find some "darker" rust/burnt metal effects, I think that it I started with a "darker" base metal colour, perhaps duraluminium?, to get the effect I'm after thank you I'm generally happy with the look, their nearly what I had "in my head" but not quite, I'll just have to build some more models until I get it right 😜 rgds John(shortCummins)

that's a really nice scheme 👍 rgds John(shortCummins)

The exhaust stacks were given a coat of LP-11 followed by Xtreme Metal AK484 burnt metal… …these were then treated with some AK light rust to make them look more heat stained… …the tips of the exhaust had some “evaporated” Ultimate dark dirt dabbed on them to represent sooty build up. For the exhaust stains I’ve tried Chris’ @bigbadbadge method which is Humbrol smoke weathering powder and, differing from Chris’ version, he uses Mig pigments Europe dust) Tamiya sand for the lighter higher temp emissions… …the exhaust stacks were then fixed in place. Next I’ll be trying to sort out the base. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks chaps rgds John(shortCummins)

those are both very interesting schemes and looking really good 👍 rgds John(shortCummins)

thanks John that's a good tip re using a hairdryer, I cover the model with a box but anything that speeds up the drying time would be helpful thanks Craig I was worried that the silver was too bright when I first applied it however once the oils were added they toned down the silver thanks James I'm a fan of VMS products so I'll give them a go rgds John(shortCummins)

I used a prismacolor silver pencil to enhance the chipping. The same 502 Abteilung oils used for the underside along with a ABT525 ghost grey (which is really a grey/green colour) Next I’ll be adding the exhaust stacks and stains. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

After “peeling” the Eduard carrier film the entire airframe was given a coat of Windsor and Newton Galeria matt varnish for both protection and preparation for the oils weathering. Galeria is a really nice, water based, flat coat, the only “down side” is the “long” drying time of 24 hours, when I used lacquer flat coats I can “work” with them in under an hour. The reason I want to use a water based flat coat is that it shouldn’t be effected by either the oils or thinners, there is a (small) chance that a lacquer flat coat could be effected, I’ve only had it happen to me once when the oils and flat coat turned into a “sludge” and became “pebbly”. I used several 502 Abteilung oils to represent oil/fuel stains, accumulated dirt and grime including: ABT002 sepia ABT006 burnt umber ABT007 raw umber ABT510 starship filth Next I’ll be continuing with the weathering on the upper surfaces. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)