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@Mark Harmsworth Mark, your comment wasn't even posted while I was typing; so no, I wasn't referring to you. I'm sorry if you thought that I was, but you're inferring a message which doesn't exist.

Whenever some ancient sage flat out claims that we have to use a gloss coat under decals and we have to seal decals, it really gets on my neck because I know from my own experience that they are wrong to make such a silly blanket statement. Most decals can be applied over any half-decent paint finish -- heck, one well-known YT modeller has demonstrated the successful application of a decal on sandpaper -- and they do not normally need to be sealed. Sealed against what exactly? A cured decal is at least as hard to damage as any paint finish. You can weather right over them. The time to use a clear coat of any kind over or under a decal is when you know why you need to do it; otherwise, it's a waste of time and effort. Do you need to use a solvent which damages your chosen paint? Seal it. Tested a spare decal and found the carrier to be problematic? Overcoat and sand to blend. Got a sheen difference? Cover it. Don't know how to apply decals? Practice... Take a look at this cropped photo, which shows a Tecmod decal directly over Model Air with no clear coat below or above it, and tell me if you can see any problems. Apart from the mediocre weathering, I mean; this was made a couple of years ago, but it illustrates my point.

That's one of my favourite fillers when used appropriately. In my experience, it's absolutely fine under hobby lacquers like Tamiya LP and Mr. Color (including GX colours). It even withstands paint stripping (which is just as well for me). But if that Gravity paint is stronger, why not test it first? You have both products, so a dry run will assure you either way.

@junglierating I'm sure they do, but I'm fairly sure that Bozo's looking for some scale nuts, like the Masterclub set which he mentioned; not real ones. 😄

@junglierating That link redirected to some wood screws and I'm guessing that they are not in scale... 🙂 @Bozothenutter I could not find any nyloc-style nuts in any scale (you forgot to specify...) so I think that your best option is to cut some circles from styrene tube and add them to your regular Masterclub nuts. Alternatively, Tom Anyz is always open to suggestions for new products, so maybe you can ask him at anyz.io and you never know. Or you could ask for help in the 3D print forum, as some members do make things as one-offs.

The only 1/72 kit which I have right now (I've had a couple of others but it's really not for me) is Eduard's MiG-21. It needs a 0.1mm (I just checked) but it's a modern tooling and really fine. Generally, I would advise not buying just one size of scriber; it's too limiting. You can get them cheaper directly from Japanese retailers, or from Shimomura itself at http://shimomurado.cart.fc2.com/?page=2 It's in Japanese, but you can view via Google Translate. Edit: As viable alternative which is in stock in the UK (as I type, anyway...) HM Hobbies has the MRP scribers. I've not used them, but they have a good rep.

I like to match existing panel lines, as that seems logical, so it really depends on the kit.

I got my Shimomura tools in Japan. As well as the scribers, I picked up a couple of the seam scrapers (love those, too) and a whole set of metal files. Not cheap, but I won't need to replace them... They sell out quickly, but I found some eBay results for you. For 1/72, I'd suggest the 0.1mm and maybe the 0.15mm if you need to match some larger kit panel lines. As I prefer 1/48, I mostly use the two larger of the three widths. One thing which I always forget to mention is that I've added a little adhesive domed pad (like what you get with IKEA furniture) to both sides at the point furthest from the tip, so my finger and thumb rest against them with a light grip. It also makes them easy to pick up off the desk!

Look, I'll support Vallejo to the hilt because most of its products are very good as long as the modeller knows how to use them; and although I still use some solvent paints in automotive subjects (when it really matters) having such a good range of water-based paints has kept my workroom a much safer place. But packaging a bunch of regular paint colours as a weathering set is stretching their limits and is not doing new modellers any favours. There's also a long-term value argument. However, if you really want to stick in-brand, go and find the work of Eugene Tur, especially his book "Civil Vehicles" ISBN 9788409009879. Weathering on civil vehicles is a broad church, though, and you haven't given any insight into what you intend to do, @Lummy06. If Eugene's kind of work is what you want, it's a good benchmark. So, too, are Mike Rinaldi, Rob Ferreira (aka. Scratchmod), John Tolcher, and Rick Lawler, all of whom have done some great civil vehicle builds, mostly at the heavily weathered end of the scale. You can find their work online and in books, such as Valleo's "Rust and Chipping" ISBN 9788461787005. If that is not what you're driving at, maybe you are thinking of just bringing automotive subjects to life with subtle treatments around engines, radiators, exhausts, etc. For that, I really think that even a beginner is best served by a combination of acrylic inks and/or oils. Learn how to make washes and do some basic oil paint rendering and you can add a subtle bit of life and a story to any car or bike. Please ask if you want any more explanation of any of this.

If you're worried about damage from CA fumes, why not use a clear glue? I like Formula 560, because it's surprisingly strong (I also use on etch), but maybe it's not quite the clearest in comparison to Microscale. There are many PVAs which people like. Ammo has a good one now (although it may be something else rebranded). There's also clear UV-activated glue, which has become popular.

Colin, if you have one in a tub and one in a bottle, the tub is for dipping canopy parts; while the bottle is for normal glossing. I found that the latter is actually so glossy smooth as to be problematic as anything but an absolute 100% final top coat, which I learned the hard way. But as Chuck has hinted, didn't the canopy dipping product get a less than stellar reputation, if I remember right? Then again, I get good results with some products which aren't popular, so reputation doesn't hold any value for me. I put more faith in testing things for myself, so I say take Chuck's advice. If the 1/72 kit is tooled much the same as as the 1/48 kit, you'll have some spare clear bits.

That's right. Any good scriber, such those which I mentioned, should lift up neat little curls of plastic without rough edges or dragging. Good tools are rarely cheap, though.

I think that scribing is a lot about the tools because they may be some of the most individual tool choices in modelling. What works brilliantly for one person, another will dislike intensely. So if you're struggling, maybe try some different tools. I use Shimomura scribers, but that's not necessarily a recommendation as it's very personal. The MRP scribers are highly rated by some modellers whose opinions I trust.

Well, it didn't take me long to work out that (a) we probably both guessed right as it seems to be the usual rubbery black colour and (b) you should get yourself a copy of that e-book if you haven't already! I think that it would help you. It's in the Detail and Scale series by Bert Kinzey.

Don't read too much into that article, Colin, (see my edit which may have crossed with your reply) and don't take my choice as a reference. 😄 But, I looked at some photos as you did, and came to the conclusion that black would be OK. Since posting, I've just bought a Detail and Scale e-book about the Hellcat, so I'll look through its photos and get back to you ASAP if we've guessed wrong.

Hello, Colin. Have a look at the three-part article about US aircraft colours at IPMS Stockholm, which may help with your query. Well, the first bit, possibly; the author probably didn't give his thoughts about Eduard's Hellcats. 🙂 Edit: I missed the bit about coaming, specifically, and it doesn't mention that by name. I've only made the 48th version, but it seemed like the molds had not aged very well, being a bit rough in places. Also, some of the engineering and fit felt like what people call "short-run", like having to the spread the wing roots to fill their cavities. I wouldn't have guessed that the tooling post-dated Tamiya's P-47, which would be my nearest comparator, by about six years; but maybe that's not the fairest comparison. As I didn't complete the first one, I still bought another with resin wings, engine, etc. for a detailed-up project.

I don't think that Tamiya X/XF "hybrid" acrylics and the similar Mr Hobby Aqueous range are actually chemically identical. Internet myth, I suspect. Otherwise, they would smell the same (they don't), perform identically (ditto), and probably use exactly the same jars. As lacquer thinner (aka. cellulose thinner) is compatible with these paints, it's not a huge leap to estimate that their particular polymeric suspension is a type of cellulose (an organic polymer); but the carrier formulation must be somewhat different, hence the different smell.

For components in automotive builds, I recently switched to mixing the paint with clears for the desired finish rather than clear coating over it. It's obviously much quicker, but it's also more flexible (giving access to any colour and almost any sheen level in one step), and it gives a reliably smooth and durable result. Any decals on those components can, of course, go straight over it perfectly. Naturally, there are still several particular finishes at the extreme ends of the scale which require separate treatments (such as matte metal, ultra matte fabrics, high gloss over non-glossy paint) but over all, it has made my workflow more efficient and raised my standards (which is good because I'm quite self-critical).

Paine was way before my time so I may be wrong, but they are modelling how-tos, right? The OP did mention that he wanted an emphasis on graphics, so I thought maybe he wants some profile drawings, hence my suggestions. Some of the posts here seem to be way off track with critiques of style.

Ok, well to get things back on track so to speak... I'm not too sure exactly what type of book you're envisaging, @maxwellbest , but I know that Slawomir Zajaczkowski (who produces the profile artwork in Military Modelcraft) has published some books for Kagero. I've not read any, but I like his work in Modelcraft. And I'll recommend the "Armor Color Gallery" (all U.S. spelling) series from (I think) Model Centrum.

Ha! Well, there's a nearly finished MkIV AVRE which has been waiting for camo nets, dust, and a commander figure (Alpine Minis) for too long; a Firefly half-built; I started a Staghound; and that's just the AFVs. There's a P-47, an A-6E, an MX-5, a bust of Monty... and about half a dozen other things. I only finished three things last year. 🥴 And don't worry about ripping ideas, Paul. I never thought that you had and would have been flattered if you did! 🙂

They were flexible, like on a tent, I assume? I think maybe a clear freezer bag would be usable, but perhaps not transparent enough. Somewhere on YT, I saw someone making windows from resin (the single-bottle type for still water). They spread it out on cling film, I think, then peeled away the film when it was cured. You could replicate creases in the plastic by making it over a former of carved foam.

An imaginative and evocative idea. If the spelling error bothers you, Paul, I think there's just enough room for an F in front of it. You can claim to be documenting the little-known battle of Farnham. 😀 I don't know if you know the Box Dioramas website but I'll post the link as it may interest you.

What's Colt? (I also had to look up "raspberry ripple scheme" -- not quite what I thought!)

You seem to have misread. Earlier in the thread, I quoted an OED definition. Please read more carefully this part: "to contest modern usage and an OED definition" Incidentally, why did you quote my comment when it's directly above yours?