Ilie Mihai

Hello everyone! Would you please take a look at these drills: 1) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/7-1-2-Yankee-Screwdriver-Drill.html 2) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Mini-wiertarka-reczna-10-wiertel-w-rozmiarach-0-5-2mm.html 3) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Mini-wiertarka-reczna-5-wiertel-w-rozmiarach-0-6-2mm.html 4) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Pin-Vice-with-5-Drills.html 5) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Uchwyt-z-pokretlem-do-wiertel-0.2-3mm.html 6) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Wiertarka-modelowa-ze-sprezyna-do-wiertel-0.2-0.5-mm.html 7) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Wiertarka-reczna-0.5-3.0mm.html 8) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Wiertarka-reczna-0-0-6mm.html 9) https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Fine-Pin-Vise-0.1-1.0mm.html 10)https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Uchwyt-dwustronny-cztery-koncowki.html I don't know anything about drills. I am going to place an order on this website and besides the other things I was thinking about getting a drill as well. Which one would you recommend? I was looking at that Italieri one that also has drill bits. I do not really mind picking another one, tho. If it comes with drill bits...it's even better! Some other things I am buying from here are: Microscale Micro Kristal Klear (I've heard you can make clear parts with it..is that true?) A JLC P002 razor saw and Tamiya's Plastic Scriber II (I am not sure about this one...if you can ...please take a look here https://www.super-hobby.com/ and let me know if there's a better option for my money) I really need a scriber as I do not know why..but I glued two parts together on my F/A-18 and in the morning the plastic felt really...hmmm...gummy? So I had to take all that gummy plastic off and fill the hole with putty. Now I have to recreate the missing panel lines. Is this what I should have done? Is there another way to fix those holes? And is there any chance that what I did is ever going to look like in the beginning? Best regards, Michael

Perfect!! This is exactly what I needed!!! Do you happen to know of any topic about doing/applying your own washes using oil paints? Best regards!

Hello everyone! I have some questions about the salt chipping technique. I am currently working on a F/A-18E. When I get to the point of doing this...I want to try the salt chipping technique. But I am a little bit confused when it comes to the best way of doing it. Since the chipped paint isn't rust or anything like this I was thinking about a few ways of doing it but I am not sure which one is the best one and which one will give me the best result and the best look. So here they are: 1) I've been thinking about doing the top coat which in my case it is going to be Dark Ghost Grey (MRP-097 = FS36320) then do the salt chipping technique, let the salt dry and then use some Smoke clear (MRP-271). The idea behind this would be that the Smoke would darken the dark ghost gray a little bit more. Then remove the salt. 2) I've also been thinking about painting the top coat the same as the coat that is on the underside of the jet which is Light Ghost Gray (MRP-038 = FS36375) then do the salt chipping technique then apply a coat of Dark Ghost Gray (MRP-097 = FS36320), let it dry and then remove the paint. Which is the better option? In case you have any other suggestions please let me know. This is the effect I am after: Also...should I use different types of salt? Or is fine table salt good enough? This is the reference photo I have with the salt applied on the model: Best regards!

Thanks for your answers! I do not mind that since the model was pretty much a test kit anyways. A few other questions that I have: While working on the canopy for the previous model I encountered a few problems: 1) Should I polish with Tamiya polishing compound ( I have all three) or dip it in Humbrol clear gloss? Or both? Which one do you think it's the best method? Also...do I need polishing cloths for tamiya compound (tamiya sells some)? Or is a microfiber cloth enough? 2) After peeling off the masking tape I had some glue remaining from it. I have no idea how to remove it. It also ruined the whole polishing process. How do I remove it? What's your technique? 3) Should I use some liquid mask on the canopy and on the fuselage as well? I am thinking about buying some tomorrow. and 4) What colors do you use for your exhausts? I am looking for results such as those: for the current project: Which one of those looks better to you? And what colors do you think those are? for a future F-15E project: I think the above one is a chrome finish with some brown weathering to represent burn marks? Am I wrong? or maybe this for the F-15: I think this is burn metal. Again...Which one of those looks better to you? And what colors do you think those are? Best regards!

Hello everyone! Yesterday I started my second scale model an Italieri F/A-18E. While I certainly made a little progress since my first progress it is going pretty well so far. So well that I thought about applying a panel wash on it when it's done. The problem is that I tried to do that this evening on my first model...just to test it (as my first model was pretty much a test kit as well that I used in order to test my airbrush) and I encountered some huge problems. First of all the model I tried this on is a F-16 (not that important) that was painted with MR Paint colors..which are titled acrylic..but as I've seen on the internet they are pretty similar to lacquers . After that I applied a mixture of 50% X-22 and 50% MR color leveling thinner. Then I applied decals and then I applied another coat of clear varnish but this time it was Mr Paint super clear. I let it dry for about 2 hours (I know I should have let it dry overnight to cure properly, but I really wanted to try the pannel wash). After about 2 hourst I wanted to test my tamiya panel liner. I tried covering the jet in black wash like in this image It dried pretty quickly so then I tried to clean it off by rubbing the surface of the jet with a dried napkin (as stated in that video I was watching), but nothing. It solidified. I thought...okay...maybe I have to use some thinner (as it was also suggested on multiple videos). I used a q-tip. First I tried with Mr color leveling thinner and it was awful. It didn't just remove the excess wash..but after just a few passes I felt it going slowly just to realize that it is also taking off my paint. Seeing that I stopped and tried to use Revell's Color Mix. It worked (somehow). It no longer destroyed the paint underneath but it didn't seem to get the excess varnish of either. It just spread it a bit. What should I do? What did I do wrong (besides not letting the model cure overnight after applying a gloss coat). What's the process of it? I was sure to shake the bottle of tamiya panel liner just in case anyone was wondering but somehow it didn't seem to spread into the panel lines that well either when I tried doing this on some panel lines underneath the jet. Why was the mr coloring thinner attacking the paint? and why didn't color mix? Should I go and get X-20 from tamiya? Please give me a detailed explanation of what I did wrong and if you can...please explain exactly how I should do it. Best regards!

He said that he really doesn't remember if it came with a test sheet or not. That may mark the fact that he actually never used it. The seller sent me 2 new photos: So again...can you guys tell me if this is an original, please? Best regards

OMG guys!!! I NEEEEEED YOUR HELP I am not sure but I think I have a way of getting both (sort of) So this is the story: I am from Romania, right? RIGHT! So I went to one of those Romanian websites that are pretty much like ebay..where people can sell stuff and I found a guy that was selling an Iwata HP-CH (0.3mm) for less than half the price that it is in stores, here in Romania (cuz prices here are waaay too high). He said he got it from the US one year ago and that It was never used. He seemed a nice guy and he was okay with going together and get it inspected at a store that sells airbrushes (Including the same model). Now if it turns out to be original I will buy it...and I will also buy the Infinity. But I will buy the Infinity CR Plus solo with 0.2mm (or should I go directly to 0.15mm?) Now...even though he said he is okay with that and even though I will get it checked in person...I will attach the photos that he posted on the website and maybe you can tell me if it is original or fake. Here are the photos: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) Now...the only problem left (YEESS...there is still one left...at least)...is how will I convince the guy at the store.....at the store that is selling the exact same product...to help me and take 10 minutes of his time to inspect the airbrush. I was thinking of telling him that if he inspects it and helps me a little I will buy the Infinity CR Plus solo from him (cuz they have it in stock). Do you have any others suggestions about how can I ask him to help me? If it were me...I woul help someone else...but that's just me...maybe he..as an employee won't want to do so. Would you help someone if you were in his situation? Paul...would you help someone if he came into your store with such a problem? Best regards!

I know both are amazing....I know that probably I will end up loving whichever I get...I just wanna make sure that my decision is final, without any doubts...so that I will not regret not getting the other one. I can get one of those two..not both...If I would be able to get both..I would do it and and end this "mission". When they will be in stock I will go and handle them both...and probably decide based on which one feels better in my hand??? (I guess). Is that a good way of making a final decision? Both of them will last me the same amount of time if I am careful with them, right? Paul...will the seals in the Infinity last as much as the ones inside the Iwata? The aging factor is very very important to me. Will they last me a lot? Which one will deteriorate faster? And why? If Infinity's springs can be adjusted..why are there people saying that for them the trigger seems spongy? I don't get that. Is it because they just favor the Iwatas? I need my airbrush to last for at least 2 years and work as new...just after that I may be able to get another one. Best regards!

Thanks again for your fast answer! One more question: didn't the Infinity get the Teflon seals with the CR Plus version? Best regards!

Hey! Thank you for you answer! Do you think there is a big difference between the Iwata's pre set handle and the quick fix for the H&S airbrush? How can you tell exactly that you get the same line with the Iwata since you do not have the presets like on the Infinity. Also Paul said "Both are good, the H&S brush allows you to setup the trigger to your liking, there isn't any adjustment on the Iwata." What's this adjustment that is missing from the HP-CP? I will for sure go to the shops and handle them. At the moment they don't have either of them in stock but in less than one weeks they should be there. What should I look at once they are in my hand? What should I pay attention to? "You can tension the pull back on the trigger" what's the difference between this and what Paul said about what you can do with the H&S? On the H&S you can also tension the push? I am waiting for your answer. Best regards!

Okay so first of all I want to thank all of you for responding and helping a newbie. For me it doesn't really matter the brand. It can be H&S or Iwata. (those two are the only two brand available to me). What I want is something good that won't make me feel like maybe I should have got the other one. I know it's hard without trying them both..but max I can get is: hold them both in my hand and that's pretty much it. Stores won't let me try using them....and there is no one I know owning any one of those two. And even if I would hold them in my hand I wouldn't know what to look for. That's why I am asking you guys. I saved money really hard to purchase one of those two ( you have no idea how many KFC meals I skipped ). What features has the H&S Infinity that the Iwata HP-C+ doesn't and vice versa? Which one will give me more for my money? If I were to buy one I would buy any of them with a 0.2mm needle...just to keep that in mind. As far as I've read online I should be able to get the same exact results with both. But which one is going to help me get better? Which one is easier to learn to work with? Which one gives me the certainty that when I pull back the trigger paint will start getting out always the same. Is one wearing faster than the other? I do not know where exactly but I've read somewhere online that Iwatas get better overtime while H&S brushes lose quality over time. Is that true? Also...them holding up over time is also something very important as I do not know when I will be able to get a new airbrush. Now...Paul...when we are talking about a trigger having a spongy feeling are we talking about pressing it down or pulling it back? Because the whole time I thought we are talking about pulling it back. I am afraid I got into an infinite loop. I am considering the Iwata then someone explains something and then I consider the Infinity...and so on. Basically if you could read the logs in my head it would be somthing like this: Went to the scale models shop -> the guy convinced me to get the Infinity (he said both are good but the Infinity is easier to clean and is easier to maintain since you won't risk damaging the nozzle so bad. Also it comes with 2 cups and with another 0.4mm needle/nozzle) Went to the arts shop -> the guy thee explained that the Iwata is way better. Built better...feels better in the hand. He also said that the H&S are known to damage over time and get really bad. Wrote online -> People are telling me that both are good...some of them tell me to get the Infinity some of them tell me to get the Iwata. I wanted the Infinity at first because it has that bigger nozzle that doesn't have to be screwed in..because it has that quick fix feature ...and because it was used by one of the guys I look up to: Plasmo. Then I read online and everybody seems to be praising Iwata so I thought about getting the HP-C+ in the 0.2mm variant since it seems also good for fine details. Also another youtuber that I like a lot is using a HP-C airbrush. I like the quick fix handle because in my mind it will let me always have the same line when I want to do details such as pre shading. But then again..I am thinking about feeling let down by the Infinity if the trigger is not so responsive...for example if it feels like it should give out paint but it doesn't and if it is inconsistent. (one time at one point it gives paint but other time at the same point it doesn't) Please assist me more. Best regards!

At the moment the most important thing for me is which one is going to give me better control as a beginner . From what I've read you can pull the same detail with both of them with the 0.2mm needle..I got this...but which one has a better trigger. What do people mean when they say that for the H&S Infinity the trigger is a bit spongy? Best regards!

Well...the guy in the models shop recommended the H&S. My first thought was Iwata too, though. What about the triggers? Which one is better and gives more control? Why would you pick the Iwata against the H&S. What are the cons of the H&S?

Hello everyone! As I am done with my exams is finally the time to start building some kits. I have everything ready except for one thing: an airbrush. After lots of searching a while ago it came down to two models: 1) Iwata HP-CP 2)H&S Infinity CR Plus (two in one) I can buy either of them...both with 0.2mm needle/nozzle. I am torn between them and I do not know what to choose. On one hand I like the Iwata because is a very good brand and from what I've heard everyone is very pleased with their Iwata airbrushes. I am pretty sure the 0.2mm needle/nozzle will be good for details which is what I want....and overall I trust that this airbrush would make me pretty happy. On the other hand I like the Infinity CR Plus a lot as well. I like the fact that the preset handle has the option to always choose from a few configurations (1 2 3 etc). I also like the fact that it can be cleaned easily and that i can change the cups. I've read lots of reviews online...and overall people seem to go for the Iwatas. I do not know if that's for us population mostly or for the europeans as well. I am an european and I can get replacement parts for both...so please take this into consideration. Some people say that the H&S airbrushes are not as durable as Iwatas but the reason I am still considering this is because the youtuber that I look up to ( Plasmo) is using an Infinity for his work. One day am leaning a bit more towards the HP-CP and the other day I am leaning towards the Infinity...I am really undecided. I am thinking abut Plasmo and what he's capable to achieve with his Infinity and start considering it again. He should be able to get a similar result with the HP-CP too, right? Or is there a difference between them and what you can do with them? Today I went to a few local shops. One guy from one shop (scale models shop) recommended both (he was selling H&S airbrushes). He seemed pretty relaxed and I felt like he was really trying to help me. He was not really praising the H&S. He told me both are good but ultimately the Infnity gives me more things for my money and it is also easier to clean. He said that in the many years he sold H&S airbrushes noone ever complained. Another guy from another shop (arts shop..bot related to scale models) said that he used both Iwatas and H&S...and that H&S airbrushes are built all the same and they mostly work the same with no difference besides the name...and that he would recommend the Iwata...HP-CP being way batter than the Infinity. (His shop was selling both). He told me that he has one friend that used one H&S airbrush and one day while using it...it was working fine and the following morning he found the nozzle broken. Is that possible? For a nozzle to break by itself... overnight? Or was he trying really hard to sell me on Iwatas? How durable are those two comapred? Will they last me the same if properly cared for? Or are H&S airbrushes known to last not so much? How's the trigger on them? Which one is snappier and which one will give me better control so when I will pull back the trigger I will know exactly what is going to happend? What should I go for? I am really confused and I need guidance. Which one would you pick and why? Please give me reasons. Best regards, Mihai Ilie