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John D.C. Masters

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About John D.C. Masters

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Paros, Greece
  • Interests
    Oh well...lots of stuff really.

Recent Profile Visitors

428 profile views
  1. AZ Model Morane 'WR'...or is it...?

    Yes thanks...at 1/72nd there really isn't any 'grain' so to speak. It is more accurate to give a tonal structure that varies a bit. I also tried to use the clear yellow to give it a more honied-spruce look instead of the orange. I would guess they used spruce... I will also give the cowling and cheeks a little wash of dark burnt bronze to simulate what the museum piece seems to be...almost black painted brass, or is that my imagination? The fun part will be painting the black trim...yes...fun...
  2. Hasegawa Curtiss Seagull SOC-3 1/72

    Nice looking Curtiss you have there. I have always been fond of those late-30s designs...build on!
  3. Matchbox II GB Chat

    Yes...allied with Freedonia and glorious it's leader Rufus T. Firefly.
  4. Matchbox II GB Chat

    Ah yes...the Federal Republic of Marpusia...that little known landlocked state between Slovenia and Hungary, known for short hikes, long naps, and handmade shoelaces...Hail, hail Marpusia!
  5. Matchbox II GB Chat

    I second stevej's vote. African, with some Francesco Baracca thrown in for good measure!
  6. Burgess-Dunne Floatplane

    Lovely and an unusual craft. An early 'delta wing'...
  7. Donnet-Lévêque Type A, Libramodels, 1:72

    Lovely kit and superb job on the rigging!
  8. Matchbox II GB Chat

    I'm not a wealth of knowledge about many things...among them roundels. What do these represent besides your avatar?
  9. AZ Model Morane 'WR'...or is it...?

    A quick update before I head off-island until Wednesday eve... I have cleaned up and painted all the major pieces of the kit. Fuselage, wings, motor, floats (front and back), struts, cowling and cheeks... The cowling, struts and cheeks all needed some sanding to make them presentable and then I painted them with Vallejo Glossy Black. The stuff is like printing ink so I thinned it with a bot of airbrush cleaner. Worked great! Just glossy enough although the picture doesn't show it. The floats were augmented with some 'runners' on the underside made with thin Evergreen strips. Then I tinted with Vallejo Woodgrain, then one that with Tamiya Clear yellow. The same with the front of the fuselage--prop too. The front seems to be wooden ply in the museum photo, so that's what I have done. Engine is Vallejo aluminum, then pin washed with dirty oil. Hmmm...anything else? When I get back from Athens I'll drill some rigging holes, assemble the pieces, clean up some bits, rig it up, and Bob's yer Uncle! I'll be onto the Gladiator for the Matchbox GB by next Sunday. As you see...the 'S' decals will not be as large as the museum example but it is the best I have to work with. I'll check in the LHS in Athens to see if they have anything better, but I doubt they will. So...for your perusal... --JDCM
  10. Rigging multi bay aircraft

    ...just like lacing up a shoe...
  11. Tut how vulgar. The phallic outline

    Conduct unbecoming...pretty simple. There are better ways to demonstrate skill.
  12. AZ Model Morane 'WR'...or is it...?

    Thanks fellows...I guess I work at a certain pace. Maybe fast...but this thing has so few parts. Tomorrow I go to Athens until Wednesday, so no work until I get home. I'll do some today, basic stuff, but then let it sit for a while and cure. I found some decals for the big 'S'....but they are not actually as big as the original. I may have to use them anyway. They are all I've got. Images to come...
  13. Dewoitine 520 GC 1/3 1ere Escadrille

    Excellent work! Love those Dewoitine designs... My favourite will always be the sporty 500/510 series.
  14. Rigging multi bay aircraft

    I've rigged many, many biplanes over the years. Many choices... My favourite will always be 3.5 lb. test monofilament (.005) fishing line coloured with black permanent marker. Yes...you have to drill a lot of holes, but once the craft is on a jig, the rigging goes smoothly by glueing one end with a smidgen of CA, then pass it through the next hole, secure with forceps (which also pull down and tighten) then another dab of CA. Trim off the ends with a new, curved, exacto blade. It takes time but I found the results to be better than EZline, Ethicon stainless, sprue... The only tricky thing is the hole drilling. The drill bit is usually the smallest in the set and they tend to break a lot. As my modelling attests I usually use a combination of materials depending on where the rigging is supposed to be.
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