Gorby

I'll take a front seat to gawp at another slice of Pete's general weirdness pie. Although so far this one looks almost, erm... normal. It'll be very interesting to see what it looks like after it's rhinoplasty op after the bandages come off.

That's made my day - fantastic! As always I love the text just as much as the plastic bits. You're definitely getting much better with this modelling lark - those are great. I'm looking forward to the next 'Plonk' family outing.

I'm not sure what that is but if it it involves MS Windows running on my PC then it wouldn't be something I would want. I use Linux to avoid Windows. Thanks anyway Rick.

That looks fantastic! My only concern is getting the time to get to grips with the software so that I can design my own stuff. Also my PC is Linux and I believe Fusion 360 isn't available for that operating system, so I would need to find suitable design software. I had a look at 'FreeCAD' a couple of days ago but was far from impressed. I've been meaning to have a look at 'Blender' but haven’t had the time yet. Thanks for the information.

The lamp post looks excellent! I thought the bit hanging at the bottom was the wire to attach it to the mains.

That's VERY tempting.

Amazing the results that are possible from an ancient kit.

What's this!? A Bughunter without rigging… without a perfectly hand carved prop! And the pilot hasn't even got a monocle. I must have woken up in the wrong reality this morning. Beautifully done Frank, but… perhaps you should get more practice at landing the thing.

Good job. Although I never saw one this clean, fresh and new when I worked in a factory many years ago. Finemolds also do this: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/finemolds-mkn101-makino-v33i--1112179 But I don't think it looks as interesting

Really!? I think it is - it definitely got a 'WOW' from me. It's certainly worthy of more than four photos - some more close up pics would be great.

Have they changed the paint? When I've tried spraying Humbrol acrylic a couple of years ago it clogged however much I thinned it.

Odd that you say that - I like it. I certainly think it looks better than the Lightning in my opinion. And I think it's remarkable that this was designed in the 1950's, only a few years after the Spitfire was the pinnacle of fighter development. (Having said that, it definitely looks better from the side than that 'hungry mouth' front view).

I take it it'll be less open-plan. Regular update photos would be good John.

Excellent collection. I really like the varying styles. My favourite is the Sunderland.

I always have a plan... ... the trouble is that I often get to plan 'F' before I get it right.

Hi Papas – welcome to the site. It would be better if you made sure you put your questions and posts into the correct place on the forum in future – then the right people will see it. This part of the forum is reserved for problems or questions you are experiencing with the Britmodeller site rather than problems or questions about modelling or paint etc. It also stops the help & support area getting clogged up with things that the site moderators don't need to know about.

I hope it's also restored your mojo Steve. They all look excellent.

That looks exceptionally good. Just as well you're doing it as 1920/30's as otherwise, to make it believable you'd need to add the litter that lines all our roads these days.

It's difficult to believe that you've managed to wrestle that yellow Lindberg blob into this marvellous end result. Fantastic modelling Clive!

You let me know who they are and I'll sort em out. Excellent stuff Pete, it all works exceptionally well.

That's why I choose tanks that have have easy to build or most hidden tracks. I've just had a look at the tracks fitted to this thing and it ain't going to be easy. You might have to simplify them. OR Find a friend with a 3D printer. Now, I wonder where we'd find one of those....

Not sure if you've found out yet - if not.... In order to show photos on this site you will need a photo host. The site is run on a very small budget (you may have noticed that there isn't any advertising) so can't afford a server big enough to store all the pictures that are uploaded. There are other reasons like security etc. All you need to know about posting photos is here (don't worry that it's several pages long, all you need is the first post on the first page): There is a document on suitable photo hosts here: Posting photo's on here may look complicated at first, but it it is much easier than it sounds.

It didn't register yesterday that you were doing a modern Jurassic dio, so grass is okay. The only realistic way (that I've seen) in 1/35 to do realistic grass is by using 'static grass'. There are loads of videos about static grass online – the applicators are cheap (about £15 when I last looked) but to make it more realistic you will need three or four different types of grass – different lengths and/or shade of green. If you just use one type it won't look realistic unless you are going for the manicured lawn look. Incidentally, if you want a darker cover representing soil or mud, you can use soil from the garden in the same way that I mentioned sand although you will definitely have to cook in the oven to kill bacteria. This is a thread about the process: Please let me know if you can't see the photos.

What you need is a skip – preferably with a neighbour doing new building work, as insulation board is perfect as a base, and very easy to carve into natural looking shapes. Use diluted PVA glue to seal the surface. You probably know already about there being no grass at the time, so you'll need something else to cover the base. You could use sand* mixed with diluted PVA glue. If you are concerned that the grain scale is too big, you can grind it down in a cheap mortar & pestle and then sieve it. I've done that for 1/48 so (I assume) 1/35 should be okay. It will look dark to start but will get lighter when it dries fully. If it isn't light enough, when the PVA is fully dry, it is possible to paint over it. You can buy loads of stuff for dioramas, but half the time you can use things that are free or very cheap. * If the sand is damp in the bag, you might need to put it in the oven for about 20mins (I put it in takeaway foil containers). That will stop it going mouldy over time.

Wow, that's stunning work! I'm a scratch builder myself, but I fail to understand how you could make quality parts that small.