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maverick_62

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Everything posted by maverick_62

  1. In some mind yes, with the one exception, Atlantic scheme imply a dark gull gray as one of the colors, well and i allowed a little bit free interpretation of this.
  2. Grumman Avenger TBF-1C 1/48 Accurate miniatures kit plus Eduard BigED, despite the age it's still the best model of this aircraft, IMHO of course. Nothing to say about build process by itself, no any issues was found. The only moment color scheme. I know the upper surfaces must have a more gray tones, and in my representation they are more blue than gray... the boxart a bit confused of me... Thank you for looking.
  3. Masterclub provides tracks of the two types, metal and resin. I were used resin, and yes, quality is excellent much better than a metal, but work on it required a lot of partience due all of the parts are very fragile.
  4. Original tracks from the kit looks like a ruler, absolutely flat, IMHO.
  5. And some enthusiasts still building this aircraft now due to the simple construction and the excelent flight charateristics. Well and apart from anything else it's a legend!
  6. T-34, nice kit from Zvezda, was build out of the box, except tracks from MasterClub and some other additions. Thanks for looking.
  7. Model represent the Po-2 used as coherent aircraft, belonged to the 1-st "Normandia" Fighter Regiment (from November8, 1944 regiment named "Normandia-Nieman") from 303-th Fighter Avision Division, 1-st Aerial Army ofthe VVS RKKA, Monastyrshina airfiled, september 1944. Plastic from ICM with no fit issues, with Eduard PE set for interior and exterior as additional. It's my first biplan in 1/48 scale and i'm thinking photoetched turnbuckles is a quite usefull additions at least in this scale IMHO. Engine from North Star Models, it's another story. Realy it's a model inside the model. M-11 in 1/48 scale have a fine quality and despite the amount of a small parts (48 parts to be exact) i had not any troubles during the build. It's the best M-11 engine in 1/48 scale to my mind. Decals from Begemot. On the final photo, the original spark plug from M-11 engine near the model. Thanks for looking.
  8. Model represent the Po-2 used as coherent aircraft, belonged to the 1-st "Normandia" Fighter Regiment (from November8, 1944 regiment named "Normandia-Nieman") from 303-th Fighter Avision Division, 1-st Aerial Army ofthe VVS RKKA, Monastyrshina airfiled, september 1944. Plastic from ICM with no fit issues, with Eduard PE set for interior and exterior as additional. It's my first biplan in 1/48 scale and i'm thinking photoetched turnbuckles is a quite usefull additions at least in this scale IMHO. Engine from North Star Models, it's another story. Realy it's a model inside the model. M-11 in 1/48 scale have a fine quality and despite the amount of a small parts (48 parts to be exact) i had not any troubles during the build. It's the best M-11 engine in 1/48 scale to my mind. Decals from Begemot. On the final photo, the original spark plug from M-11 engine near the model. Thanks for looking.
  9. Great looking model Pete, and after your brief description of the process i'm certainly know what so called terms "short run kit" does mean...
  10. You are absolutely right about more glossier, it's... one of my simplification on this model. On the landing gear, original plastic parts were replaced on the same, but made from steel rod on the lathe. It's my usually method for modifying landing gears.
  11. Good day! F/A-18 Hornet in colors of the Blue Angel squadron. It's only mater of taste of course, but in my mind this elegant fighter jet looks moore impresive in this color scheme. As for the model. It's my first experience with the Kinetic kit and i'm absolutely sure it's the last one from this manufacture. The only part with good fitting it's cabin, all the other...; - Two halfs of the fuselage, upper and bottom have a different lenghts. If make a suggestion that the model was developed using 3d modeling with CAD systems, so it's mystery for me, how it's may be. - Intakes. Troubles by it's self during the subassembly construction, and a big issues during the installation this subassembly in the fuselage. - Main landing gear. If you wanna that's this ellement looks like a real one, will be necessary to make a hinges from a zero point. In the original from the box, they are absence from word at all. - The wheel bay of the main landing gear. All simple is here. The huge visible spacing has occurred after mounting this detail into the fuselage, so a lot of epoxy putty to assist you. - Canopy. The instruction offers two variant to make canopy in close or open position, it's in the theory. And my first decision was to make it close, but some correction was made by the reality. If briefly, the new canopy you will need, to make it in the close position, since the both parts don't correspond by each other softly to say. And in the addition for this a bad fitting between canopy and fuselage with a large gap. - Decals. Decals printed by cartograf are excellent by itself, but why there are no stencils for cabin and cabin tools, despite the same kit in the other color scheme, there are? All the other are excellent. And despite the fact a lot of mistake were made by my self during the building, i'm hope that the final result looks like a Hornet. Thanks for looking.
  12. Thanks for all for the such kinds of words. You are right Tony. The Airfix kit is better, but it's also require a much work to bring it out as interest model. One of the main problem for all kits (Airfix kit not the exception IMHO) of this model, it's the cockpit windshields shape and size. And i can't say that i'm fully satisfied how i was fixed it on this model.
  13. Thank you for the comment. I'm also sharing this point of view. Two seater modification of this aircraft have a more completed aerodynamics forms to my mind.
  14. Dakota, the old ESCI kit (but i found out about it, only after the building were start began ;)) repack by Italeri kit No 1338. The main and the great feature of this kit it's the quite interest decal sheet. Some extras was used during the process: - Eduard PE for original Italeri. In their application to this kit, all about the cabin tools are ok, but for the flaps instalation some manipulation are require ; - QuickBoost engine, are also designed for the original Italeri, and in this case some troubles during install was found as well; All the other from the box,... almost. Thanks for looking.
  15. Oh, got it. I've also wasted for a few minutes trying to attach this detail, and on the last photo you can see the final result. Not the best, in real life there are no gap between wheel bay and headlight fixture. But here we have what we have, at least it's not much catch eye to my mind.
  16. I'm afraid i don't quite understand about what you're speaking. As i remember there are no any attachment tabs and instruction just offers the position in mm on the frame for the front wheels.
  17. Hello, Badder You're absolutely right about open hatches, and i'll take that it into consideration, when this tank will becames a part of diorama. The first idea was to build this Tiger with all open hatches, raised turret and 16t strabokran as well. And i hope to make it, when my enthusiasm to this project rise up once again.
  18. Not, it's Rye Field Model kit. Looks like you're right about left fender. It should be on the right side, and vice versa. I've only just now noticed. Thanks for the comment.
  19. Tiger I 1/35, straight out of the box, except the ropes, they are from something office copy machine. Impression from the model,... it's my first and last model from this manufacturer. Very soft plastic, a lot of pin marks even on a small detail, but nevertheless fitting are ok in general. Thank you for looking, and by the way it's my first attempt to make a tank model,... so any comments are wellcome.
  20. The main problem it's assembling canopy, where clear part and corresponding (well in the theory corresponding... ) frame have a quite different forms. All the orther, requires some sanding and a little bit usage of putty, but it doesn't matter. All you need it's right assembling order, and not that in the instruction.
  21. Hasegawa/Eduard kit straight out of the box, except additional Eduard PE set, and some correction of the few kit parts were made by hand. Thank you for the looking any comments are welcome.
  22. Replacement technology of the spokes isn't so diffcult. Instruction step by step; 1. Remove two neghboring spokes and then drilling coresponding holes in hub and rim. Diametr 0.3 mm for rim and 0.25 mm for hub in this case. 2. Installing two new spokes from wire. 3. The next two plastic spokes must be cutting and replacing in oposite side of the hub. 4. Repeat step 1-3 until all spokes will be replacing. Removing and replacing spokes by pair and in opposite direction by each other, it's a key moment for keeping hub correct position about the rim. So nothing diffcult, only a few patience are required.
  23. Yes patience are required, but it's not so difficult how it's seems, and as i thought for the first look.
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