Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About degsye39

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Shelf life of different model paints

    Corsair i think the using the pump pliers thing is just the rough mechy fitter coming out of me! It worked ok but it seems like i deserved to be chastised for being that rough! Sapper its funny you say about the matting agent in the newer humbrols is this like a white streaky substance? I bought a newer tin of humbrol 86 to paint the (superb) airfix bedford mwd with and when thinned with white spirit it left some hard to spot but still present white streaks! I wonder if the newer humbrol doesn't take to white spirit very well? All of my older tins have been fine! I was happy enough with the finish in the end though! It never ceases to amaze how much old humbrol is floating about on ebay uk! Oddly enough im only about 14 miles away as the crow flies from humbrols now demolished marfleet site! I think i heard someone say the new humbrol uk made tins are produced by ineos? Runcorn way on maybe? Cheers!
  2. Shelf life of different model paints

    Ray i think you misunderstand me mate, I dont leave my humbrol enamels upside down to seal the lids.. I do it to get the lids shut firmly for all of 10 seconds then i store them upright! Can agree on the spotless lids though! Im going to try the kettle trick on some tamiyas thanks.. Probably less rough than my method haha! I brush paint though so most of my tamiya arycrlics got sold a while back! Im also going try the agitators trick mate good shout! I normally resort to electric paint stirrers! (Well a drill with a piece of bent bicycle spoke in the end! ) All the best.
  3. Shelf life of different model paints

    Also just as an aside ill try contribute something in regards to the other brands! (what i remember at least!) Molak enamel: Garbage, every tin i have come across has been dry! Airfix enamel: Seems to have the same lifespan as humbrol! Wem colorcoats: Seems superb as humbrol is Testors glass bottle enamels: Ones i had lasted 15 years seemed to have longevity Citadel acrylics: A lot dried out when i was bumbling around with them at 14-15 seem to find many dried out pots off of ebay? Cant see them lasting forever tbf Newer humbrol acrylics: seem fine not come across any dried out pots! Older humbrol acrylics pre hornby: Seems like a lottery got one lot off of ebay with 10 of 12 dried out and them some are fine, They do go hard though! Tamiya acrylics: Used to brush paint with these in my late teens (why?!) Seem fine but the carrier seems to vanish after some time, I just used to top them up with x20a Evil glass bottles keep the threads clean! I got a large blister on my hands from them at one point! If the lids are stuck fast i would suggest a set of pump pliers, used with care works just as well as the gunze tool! Revell enamels: Some keep ok, but definitely inferior in longevity to humbrol enamels! Im not sure if its something to do with the slightly different tin design? vallejo acrylics: Seem quite good, cant see them keeping for 50 years like the humbrols though! Revell acrylics: Got a few pots.. None dried out odd container design mind. Cheers lads!
  4. Shelf life of different model paints

    Morning sapper, was reading this with interest and thought i would add my two penneth. I dont have an awful lot of experience in adult modelling like many on here but i hope i can add something.. I started modelling around 1996-7 building an original airfix p40 in 1/72nd scale with my old man helping me, These were the humbrol ''super'' enamel range which happens to be my favorite paint atm! These kept fine until i left modelling again around about 2008, I got back into modelling around a year ago and having sold all my original paint started buying humbrol enamels again exclusively, The longevity of these little 14ml tins deserves its legendary status.. I must of bought close to 1000 tins off ebay in the past year, ranging in age from ''one hour enamel'' right up to the latest stuff, Some tins had the lids haphazardly slapped on some had been properly sealed! Out of all of these tins id say two to three had gone dry and these were tins with badly replaced lids, Even some seriously neglected tins had skinned over and could be rejuvenated. Bear in mind though most of what i have accumulated is older stuff and made in hull! (marfleet) As for the latest hornby era tins i have got some oldish (7 years maybe?) tins that seem fine.. The latest RLM Tins are appalling from the factory no age involved. But everything newer besides those tins has been fine! I have a bit of a routine to preserve my sacred humbrols in all fairness, If i buy some off ebay i check them out at eye level on a table and pick out the ones with ''top hat'' looking lids sticking right up! or lids put on ajar! The paint still seals it makes a ring around the lid! I then set these aside and using a craft knife i chip the old paint off of the lid, Wipe it clean put the lid on as good as i can by hand then i turn the tins upside down.. I then push them down hard on a solid kitchen table (any workbench or hard surface will suffice) until the lid is right down! Do this and i think we may get a century out of the little blighters! Regards lads.
  5. Ingenious solution, many thanks chap.
  6. Evening all, first post so hello, hope you are all well. I seem to have a slight issue with my revell 1:72 me109 g-10, it does seem to be a bit of a duff kit with flash galore and a quite poorly fitting fuselage. I’ve only been back to the hobby around a month and this is my first foray into kit building since the 1990’s. The exhaust ports on my 109 are fine one side and badly formed the other I know on a g-10 me109 the manifold should have a shroud above on one side, mine had a small lump of plastic and a malformed hole which I attempted to sand and salvage somehow, quite badly it seems. I’d like to scratch build the exhaust shroud and reform the curved section where the manifold comes through, could any of you gents give me some insight into how I could achieve this? I was thinking along the lines of milliput or maybe trying to scratch build a small part using flat plastic (I do recall seeing such things but this would of been in d.hewins Grimsby around about 1997) Thank you and kind regards! what im after! the kit ps, if this is i the wrong place i apologise!