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About cambridge

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  1. DIY project: plasticard printing/cutting machine

    wow, i honestly didn't even know it existed
  2. DIY project: plasticard printing/cutting machine

    i can understand your suggestion on an "industrial scale", where you do that all day, all days, but here i'm talkin about just cutting some shape in a sheet of 0.2mm plasticard once in a while. I don't think on such a scale the fumes would be any different in quality and quantity from when we melt plastic with a lighter for obtaining antennas or wires. Not saying that those are good fumes, but you probably get more poisned if you smoke a cigarette or you live in a big city.
  3. so, the thing is: i have a broken scanner/3d printer, before throwing it in the trash can, being the kind of guy i am, i went online to look for things i can do with it and i found this: now the following thought popped into my mind. What if i use the same principle to come up with a machine that allows you to cut plasticards sheets? then the secon thought that popped in my mind is "well, who can i better ask to if not those guys on britmodeller"? so the question is: do you think a project like this could work? Has it already been done, and if so is there some walkthrough i can follow as a reference?
  4. in this picture i see three 1/144 kits by BANDAI: the guy in the middle should be HGUC RX-78-2 Revive. is there any expert in gunpla who can tell me what kits are the guy on the left and the guy on the right?
  5. i apologize if i talk about modeling in a non modeling section but i feel the forum lacks a proper section where to ask modelling questions non related to any genre, so this seems the most appropriate section. So, i have a feeling that snap togheter models are considered a bit like an heresy in modelling world and i was wondering why. At best you have guide pins here and there to help align parts but no big modelling brand as far as i know is using the snap togheter approach. The only one that comes to mind is BANDAI and i have to say i've built a Gundam MG kit once and it was the most amazing kit i've built in term of engineering and quality. If you don't know Gundam models, please have a look at a Gundam Perfect Grade to understand how amazing these things are, and consider you can build the whole model without using a single drop of glue ( you can still use glue if you want ), the alignment of parts is perfect, no gaps anywhere, the design of parts and the way they go togheter is amazing, the snap togheter approach doesn't in any way require any compromize in term of details and the whole thing can assume all sort of poses once is built thanks to the skillfull engineering of the model. the model doesn't feel like a toy and i actually have a feeling not using glue doesn't take away anything from the modelling experience. Now going back to regular kits, you never see that approach not even in particular parts of the model, you think expecially on big scales planes where you have to put togheter the two parts of the fuselage or the halves of the wings, and sometimes expecially if the model is not perfect it can become frustrating, with parts not perfectly aligning or glue drying unevenly leaving some weak spots, or tanks where you have to assemble the frames halves, and so on. I feel most kits would benefit from at least the use of snap togheter approach in some particular spot of the model, instead it feels as if it is considered cheating. What do you think about snap togheter?
  6. the one with the "non-modelling related chat" disclaimer? Chat Follow14 Non-Modelling Related Chat
  7. i see there's a generic chat section for non modeling questions, and there are sections for various modelling generes. But let's say i want to ask a generic modelling question, like "what is your favourite modelling brand" "what is the best kit you've built so far" and so on, what is the appropriate section of the forum for that?
  8. Scammell Pioneer SV2S

    absolutely gorgeous, in some picture i swear it could be the real thing
  9. yes that 1/3 is missing to make space for the legs of the driver since the space is small in that thing, it's not the result of the damage.
  10. well a little introduction to explain the weird title: this is a bit of an experiment on different levels. First i've seen these kits made by RPM, very peculiar subjects, coming very cheap ( this one was around 6€ ), scale 1/35 also provided with interiors, was curious to see what you get at such a cheap price. 2nd, wanted to do a little bit of modding, 3th wanted to simulate an explosion damage, 4th wanted to paint a burnt tank. Well i've done all of the above on this kit wich was the perfect choice coming so cheap to tear it down without the pain of thinking about the wallet crying, if it comes out good, good, if i butcher it nothing much is lost. Originally this was a Polish tankette ( the kit doesn't provide any decals or paint scheme by the way ) but in this particular version the weapons are removed and the hull is converted to a generic tractor purpose. I had read about the polish TKS tankette that historically germans after invading poland captured and converted many of these little fellas and used them all trough the war for various purposes in almost all the theathers. So, since i'm also building a 1/35 normandy tiger, i decided to paint this model in Wermacht color scheme in order to use it as a decoration for the Tiger diorama display i'm planning to make. That is also the reason why this little fella is weathered but not "dusted", as it's something i'll do when i'll blend it in the diorama, possibly some urban scenario with some dust and rubbles all around it. I've decided to leave its right side in pristine conditions, in order to see how the kit would look like if built properly, and its left side representing the damage caused by an explosion ( possibly during a bombing ). Modifications i've made on the original kit are: - opened the back doors and removed the front door ( they are originally one piece with the top frame mould ). Changed the driving seat with a burnt frame seat. cut the skirt on the damaged side and put a metal one in its place in order to be able to bend it properly. Made the parts you can see in the trunk since you would not be supposed to see anything there. Added a front light from a tiger kit as i've seen pictures of german converted tankettes with added front lights. the rest is right as it comes with the kit. two words on the kit: kit has its ups and downs, i would say there are more ups than down considered the price. Don't expect extreme quality but don't expect total crap too like the price would suggest. Details are good, lots of rivets, no sprue flash at all, amazing quantity of extra parts, two sets of tracks ( plastics coming with good details, and rubbery, with rubbish details ) even some textures on parts like the seats or the skirts, soft plastic easy to work with. On the downside the way its parts are designed it feels like an old kit, doesn't come togheter extremely well, need some reworks here and there and instructions are crappy, so it requires a little bit of experience and extra work to put it togheter. But it's extremely cheap, it's a particular subject, it's cute, if it tickles your curiosity or you want to use it, like i did, to make some experiments, i say give it a try. Having said that, here are the pictures ( i apologize for having made them with my phone but i've no better camera at the moment ): and a picture just to make clear its size:
  11. that really makes you feel the cold in your bones, wich to me it means it's a job well done. what product have you used for the snow?
  12. if i go for something like this i already know it would fall me on the floor the moment i'm going to put the very last rigging cable
  13. can i join in? i'm building a Wittmann 007 just in these days and i have a captured 131 that still wait to be finished
  14. i've just realized this could be the perfect occasion to do my first experiment with custom photoetched parts. i just need to figure out the right process and put my hands on the proper materials and i think i could exponentially enhance the result for the tail and the alerons. i've already have an UV lamp and i know how to use CAD. I'll need to pick some PCB tablets and the chemicals and see if i can work it out. since i'm there i'll probably do a custom cockpit cage too since the original one is too thick here's the drawing i've done for the tail, definitely photoetched parts would improve the final outcome. now i have to find a way to print it without losing the required detail
  15. minor update: i had some spare figures from a tamiya zero model i've done, so i decided to customize them in order to represent three people examining the relic. these are the figurines before and after the customization ( i have applied just a first layer of color ). I've cut them apart and used green stuff to change their pose. this is how they'll look in the scene