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cambridge

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  1. i think you're right and i will attempt some of the fix you suggest ( the vision ports, damn, how did i forgot them? ) using the tamiya putty this time wich i think would work better on small details. The putty i've used would be a mess on small details, it was almost like a glue, wich would work actually better than expected on large flat surfaces but it would be a mess to polish fine details. among the other things i've realized after the priming that i must have used a saw blade with a clogged tooth space cause at one point there's a pattern of a tooth missing that repeats itself. good thing is it will almost completely disappear under the mudguard
  2. actually i don't know if it was the right choice or not but on the rear i made it messy "on purpose" compared to other surfaces. on the left and right edge is lacking cause it's where the two mud fenders will go and on the instruction sheet that edge was shown as un-zimmered. and around the exhausts i figured out that considering the extreme heat it was plausible that chuncks of the covering would simply come off, so in my intention it was an attempt to realism, don't know if it works or not. for the glacis i had opened this discussion right on that subject: i figured out that the best option was to not apply it and eventually apply it later, instead of applying it and decide later to remove it. using pure logic i would put it there too ( that's where the transmission is after all ) but i still have to find a picture where you can see it clearly on a tiger. i agree that it can be light, overexposition and bad quality of the pictures but there's a strange consistency in that. it was actually much simpler and quick to make than i anticipated. You just use a blade from a hobby saw ( i've used one for cutting metal, wich i think gave better result ). you spread the putty on the surface, doesn't even have to be even. than you pass the blade over the putty, you move it to the side, than a bit up, than to the side, than a bit down, than to the side, and the blade marks its teeth in the putty and spreads it even at the same time. It works wonder and it's very fast, and at least to me it recreate that feeling of the zimmerit you can see in pictures, that was never, tidy and perfect but a bit messy and different from one tank to another.
  3. so, this is not going to be a walktrough as usual, i just wanted to get some feedback on a particular aspect of my project, wich is zimmerit. i've never done a zimmerit coated tank before and i was very courious about it. I didn't want to use photoetched parts or buy an already coated tank, i feel it looks more autentic if you apply it as a paste, watching the original pictures it's the way it was done and between the way it was applied and the battle wearing the zimmerit coating never looks as good and as regular as the one you can obtain with photoetched parts. So i've bought this AFV kit and i've worked on it ( wich is a pity cause the kit is beautifully detailed and many details like the weildings and the cast texture are lost under the zimmerit. i've used a plastic putty to cover it and using a saw blade i've added the zimmerit texture on it. Some places ( like the sides of the turret ) are left un-zimmered in order to make it easier to apply parts over them ( that's where spare tracks are ) and won't be visible when everything is put in its place now i'm at the point i've coated it and primed, before i move on with painting i just wanted a feedback on the result i've achieved so far, if it's an ok result, if there's something to fix, if the scale is right, if it's totally wrong, well you know.
  4. question is simple: was the horizontal plate of the glacis covered in zimmerit? usually the kit manuals show it covered, if you buy zimmerit photoetched surfaces it is covered, i've seen tigers in museums with it covered in zimmerit but the fact is all the original black and white pictures i've seen it never looks like it is, i don't know it may be a light effect but it seems consisent
  5. 1/48 Zvezda Yak-3 "White 6"

    was this kit nice to build? i put my eyes on this one and the La-5 from Zvezda and they both seemed well made and good for the price, if i had more space for 1/48 planes i would probably buy one of them.
  6. (another) Tiger I

    there's not such a thing as "too many tiger I"
  7. SBD-2 BuNo 2106 1/32 Trumpeter

    it's so good i would say it is a 3d rendering if you ask me without telling me it is a real model
  8. Renault Ft-17 FlyHawk 1/72

    i can't believe this is just 1/72, be honest, you just have an overscaled lighter at home that you use for taking these pictures
  9. i absolutely love the weathering, you kept it simple, you didn't overdo it, but still is of great effect and very realistic finish, that's the best possible outcome for me
  10. that is an absolute mistery to me, 80.000 tanks produced in over 15 years and one can't find a reliable source on the tank colors. I know they were produced in different factories over different years but come on
  11. is that 1/35? your suggestion would be a nice addiction for sure, i had pondered it but in the end when i assembled the cockpit it all came out so nicely and so clean that i think i'm not gonna add anything, don't want to risk to mess it with glue drops or something. i've got one question since i'm there: how did you decided to paint the engine bay? i made some research online, apparently is still a debated topic. In the end the more plausible option i've come up with is to have a green engine bay, red fuel tanks and green oil tanks. It looks like you've done a full red is that something coming from the instruction sheet? the Hobby boss instruction poo-poo doesn't tell what colors to use on the various parts. anyway, i've finished assembling the engine bay, i just have to redo the green prime on the hull. here's the result ( i still think is an insane amount of details for a 1/48 scale ):
  12. well i've moved on this one but i forgot to take pictures so this is the current state of the kit the kits come togheter absolutely nicely. the quality of the interiors assembled is impressive for the scale.
  13. ok, so i've finally assembled the body, and reproduced some more damage, it is now almost ready for paint. i've also started the making of the display base, this is just the first step, i'm planning to drop glue over it and pour "sand" over the base to give the right texture. For the base i made a layer of modelling clay, pressed it down with some sand paper to give it a bit of a texture and than rolled a marble in an irregular way over it to produce the typical little sand dunes. here is with a low light to show the effect in a more dramatic way
  14. Musings on an air/sea rescue scene

    it looks good but i would add some radial white lines too, in every picture i see they're quite there, like a sort of spiderweb
  15. in fact i find pictures of the relic evidentely taken in different moments showing different type of damages. I'm trying to stay true to those who i think were the first pictures taken, the one showing less damages. i find it absolutely amazing, the plane slept in the desert for 70 years and survived almost immaculate, than somebody find it by accident and in a matter of months it gets more damages than in the last 70 years. by the way i've found some pictures of the actual recovery http://www.qattara.it/60-173 Kittyhawk.htm
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