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About cambridge

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  1. 1/18 Fairey Firefly VX376

    you're making me love a plane i hate
  2. plot twist: he now tells us this is going to be an in flight model with landing gears retracted
  3. took the job back in my hand. I started to give a first hand of paint. i'm also experimenting and trying to use metal instead of plasticard for the control surfaces, i think with a bit of patience i can come up with something better than what i've already done. I think a wash will look particularly good on this one, lot of rivets and panel details to highlight.
  4. wow, that is a very neat zimmerit coating. where does that turret zimmerit pattern come from and how did you do it?
  5. this one: https://www.super-hobby.it/products/Wamod-putty-for-plastic-models.html
  6. i think you're right and i will attempt some of the fix you suggest ( the vision ports, damn, how did i forgot them? ) using the tamiya putty this time wich i think would work better on small details. The putty i've used would be a mess on small details, it was almost like a glue, wich would work actually better than expected on large flat surfaces but it would be a mess to polish fine details. among the other things i've realized after the priming that i must have used a saw blade with a clogged tooth space cause at one point there's a pattern of a tooth missing that repeats itself. good thing is it will almost completely disappear under the mudguard
  7. actually i don't know if it was the right choice or not but on the rear i made it messy "on purpose" compared to other surfaces. on the left and right edge is lacking cause it's where the two mud fenders will go and on the instruction sheet that edge was shown as un-zimmered. and around the exhausts i figured out that considering the extreme heat it was plausible that chuncks of the covering would simply come off, so in my intention it was an attempt to realism, don't know if it works or not. for the glacis i had opened this discussion right on that subject: i figured out that the best option was to not apply it and eventually apply it later, instead of applying it and decide later to remove it. using pure logic i would put it there too ( that's where the transmission is after all ) but i still have to find a picture where you can see it clearly on a tiger. i agree that it can be light, overexposition and bad quality of the pictures but there's a strange consistency in that. it was actually much simpler and quick to make than i anticipated. You just use a blade from a hobby saw ( i've used one for cutting metal, wich i think gave better result ). you spread the putty on the surface, doesn't even have to be even. than you pass the blade over the putty, you move it to the side, than a bit up, than to the side, than a bit down, than to the side, and the blade marks its teeth in the putty and spreads it even at the same time. It works wonder and it's very fast, and at least to me it recreate that feeling of the zimmerit you can see in pictures, that was never, tidy and perfect but a bit messy and different from one tank to another.
  8. so, this is not going to be a walktrough as usual, i just wanted to get some feedback on a particular aspect of my project, wich is zimmerit. i've never done a zimmerit coated tank before and i was very courious about it. I didn't want to use photoetched parts or buy an already coated tank, i feel it looks more autentic if you apply it as a paste, watching the original pictures it's the way it was done and between the way it was applied and the battle wearing the zimmerit coating never looks as good and as regular as the one you can obtain with photoetched parts. So i've bought this AFV kit and i've worked on it ( wich is a pity cause the kit is beautifully detailed and many details like the weildings and the cast texture are lost under the zimmerit. i've used a plastic putty to cover it and using a saw blade i've added the zimmerit texture on it. Some places ( like the sides of the turret ) are left un-zimmered in order to make it easier to apply parts over them ( that's where spare tracks are ) and won't be visible when everything is put in its place now i'm at the point i've coated it and primed, before i move on with painting i just wanted a feedback on the result i've achieved so far, if it's an ok result, if there's something to fix, if the scale is right, if it's totally wrong, well you know.
  9. question is simple: was the horizontal plate of the glacis covered in zimmerit? usually the kit manuals show it covered, if you buy zimmerit photoetched surfaces it is covered, i've seen tigers in museums with it covered in zimmerit but the fact is all the original black and white pictures i've seen it never looks like it is, i don't know it may be a light effect but it seems consisent
  10. 1/48 Zvezda Yak-3 "White 6"

    was this kit nice to build? i put my eyes on this one and the La-5 from Zvezda and they both seemed well made and good for the price, if i had more space for 1/48 planes i would probably buy one of them.
  11. (another) Tiger I

    there's not such a thing as "too many tiger I"
  12. SBD-2 BuNo 2106 1/32 Trumpeter

    it's so good i would say it is a 3d rendering if you ask me without telling me it is a real model
  13. Renault Ft-17 FlyHawk 1/72

    i can't believe this is just 1/72, be honest, you just have an overscaled lighter at home that you use for taking these pictures
  14. i absolutely love the weathering, you kept it simple, you didn't overdo it, but still is of great effect and very realistic finish, that's the best possible outcome for me
  15. that is an absolute mistery to me, 80.000 tanks produced in over 15 years and one can't find a reliable source on the tank colors. I know they were produced in different factories over different years but come on