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rob Lyttle

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About rob Lyttle

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  1. I've watched a few videos of these things starting up. I'm thinking experienced ground crew knew to stand up-wind! Good grief, has anyone estimated the amount of damage done to the ozone layer over the years by Canberras and B57s? Don't think they'd pass their emissions test for the next MOT! Little shiny disc on the side of the cowl- has that anything to do with the cartridge starting system?
  2. ".....or in this case, because it isn't not there!" Yeah, I think I see what you're getting at, now. Seriously, this is mind-bogglingly good freestyle modelling going on here.
  3. Snapper, is this conveying the gist of it, or just creating a mysterious fog?! Pleased to get the tanks on straight and level, Also thinking seriously about having the airbrakes closed, to show the styling of the airframe. I like the look of it...
  4. Bit of a trim, and a good seeing to with the buffer stick, and a straight trim around the front join line, it's ready for the front tip- Again it's starting in the middle, which is the very tip, with a piece big enough to make it to the join but small enough not to be a nuisance with surplus Now it's just easing and teasing the foil back gradually with thumbnail till the join line is reached. Work it evenly rather than make one side and then try another - there's spare foil to be lost to make that cup shape and you don't want it all in one big wrinkle at the end. That's ready to trim around the join line. Tank done. Except the fixture pins that locate into the fuselage are downright inadequate. I drilled them out and fitted stretched sprue ( one at 2 mm and two at 1mm). Perhaps if it was a bare plastic to plastic join prior to a paint job, those locating pins would be OK ( but I doubt it) but with a foil job those pins need to do the work unless you're going to be faffing about with superglue. By the way, here are those vanishingly small PE parts for the intake doors that I put to one side Sorry about the picture but my camera doesn't have a microscope function! Really? Life's too short.....
  5. It's dawning on me gradually that it's not easy to describe ( or photograph) what's going on at my fingertips! One guiding principle is:- get it on nice and flat in the middle, and work to the edges. So, for the front section with the compound curve, the middle of the foil is the underside of the front section, and I'll work my way up round the side and make a join at the top. If it all starts to look unworkable I can either make cuts halfway up and do a separate piece on the top, or peel the whole thing off and reconsider, with a cup of tea . This is coming up one side to the top - I've found the line at the front tip and made a cut to relieve the foil of all the excess building up at the front, and about to cut along the centreline on top. So far so good... I'm using thumb and thumbnail to work out towards the edges surplus trimmed, and ready to come up the other side It's all the excess at the front that needs control, keep cutting at the front join line to let the important piece settle round the curve. Focus on the panel - all the rest is junk.
  6. That Canadian hawk looks brilliant. The blue bands on the black tail are (literally) radiant! Is the whole decor a combination of paint and transfers?
  7. OK, but it is the tailpiece next, which is easier as it's a straight sided cone. Again, I'm making the join at the top - so I start underneath. The foil is going to skew up along the tank but that's OK. It's going to be trimmed back to the moulded line to meet the first piece of foil. Trim back the surplus length beyond the tip and ease the foil up one side. Concentrate on getting the middle on smooth and flat, and work to the edges. When it's up to the top centreline, make the cut.Try not to leave cuts on the first piece. In fact you could make the cut at the mould line first, and then down the centreline to the tip. The cone shape does finish before the join line and become straight cylindrical for a few mm, but the foil can absorb the difference - just keep the "surplus" evenly distributed, don't herd it all into one big wrinkle! Other side - Sorry about the photos, my lil phone camera is well out of it's depth here! You should be able to find the mould line and the centreline cut edge through the foil, so cut and remove the surplus and give it a buff. Check that last cut was OK. You don't want a gap, or a big overlap seam. A slightly less worn-out abrasive stick may help to blend joints together . OK, phase 3 up next....
  8. Fuel tank is next on the list, and it needs doing in 4sections. - the main body is a cylinder. -the tail is a cone. -front has a compound curve. -the nose. No.3 is the tricky part! Start with the main cylinder The fixings along the top make a good place to start, because locating pins and aerial blades are a nuisance in the middle of a surface, and the foil join will be tucked away under the fuselage in the long run.
  9. A belt and braces contingency plan can be a good thing when boldly going where no modeller has gone before!
  10. That does look like an above -average kit that's landed on your table. Hope the airfix kit can hold its own, in tandem with this!
  11. So, are you going to finish it with open air con bay, as for maintenance? What's the plan?
  12. Rodh2, are we going to get a look when you're done? Or in progress even? 👍
  13. Are you sure you don't want a nice shiny one? If it was me, I'd use the transfers and pretend they were the right ones!!
  14. All -moving tailplanes for foil next. The rivets details are very light and it's going to be a challenge to find them again! As a general rule, with two opposing parts, and especially here, cover one and use the other as a reference to help find the detail patterns on the one that's covered. But I know from looking at the mouldings, this is a bit of a challenge. I got 75mm wide foil and I can do the whole blade in one. I ve drawn a pencil line down the middle of the foil thats for the leading edge. Peel the backing past halfway to reveal that line, and plant the leading edge on it. Now drop the piece down onto the foil. Leave the backing on the other half for protection, there's nothing more attractive to bits of rubbish than an exposed length of sticky foil! Trim the surplus Now, with no dirt involved, peel the backing as the foil gets applied across the other side The odd little wriggle in the foil doesn't matter, they'll flatten out. But if you haven't trimmed the surplus tape from the first side you get in a right old tangle with two surfaces of surplus tape sticking together. The bit on the end can cover the tip Give it a good burnish to try to find the rivets. You've got the other blade uncovered to help. A straight edge with a cocktail stick run along it is good at picking up the line of rivets. You can feel them bumping if you're on the right line. Wrong lines with no details will burnish flat again. It's a tight fit in the fin, but that's a good thing, right?
  15. Plan C port wing seems to be OK, I drilled into the fuselage side through the holes in the door, not all the way through, to give aplastic to plastic join and a location, stretched sprue to 1mm,. and glued em in. They should trim up fine later. I might try slipping an extra one in further back, just cut to size/ tight fit - has anyone tackled this with the p.e.parts successfully?? Take my hat off to them, for sure.