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Sprueloose

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About Sprueloose

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    Republic of Portland, Oregon USA
  1. Another update. Not much to show but moving along.. Worked on the Fowler flap. More sanding and filling. Quite colorful with white plasticard, Bondo, Surfacer, and now Perfect Plastic Putty! "Discovered" a trick for sanding this thing. I put a piece of double-sided tape on the good side and then put a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper on my little cutting block. Pressing the flap down onto the block gave me a nice straight, flat surface and the sticky tape kept the flap from slipping out from under my fingers. I can't take credit for this as I just read in some thread of someone using bits of tape rolled back on themselves to create double-sided tape. Anyway it worked a treat. I shaped the little guide nubbins too: Here is a picture of the actual thing: Closer, but no cigar Terry! Next I did some work on the rudder. Sanding and giving it a coat of Mr. Surfacer 500. Sanding. Then I used the Proxon to remove some material on the port side of the main rudder to represent the concavity of it's surface there: Finally I removed some of the reinforcement that would be in the way of the cockpit build: I really can't stand the kit cockpit so I might try building my own... That's all folks. Steady rain and slowly melting slush here in Portland. Terry
  2. Thanks for the kind words. I will look more closely at the wheels. I got a pair of resin wheels but frankly they didn't look much different from the kit except for not having to deal with the seam line. They weren't weighted, which was a big disappointment. Not much to show for a days work today. I worked on the rudder and it does deflect a bit which is nice. Filled the trench I created with spruegoo and then Bondo. Surprised that the piece hasn't melted under my chemical assault! Did some sanding and filling on the Fowler flap and then two coats of Mr Surfacer 500. Still needs work. And then scribing I guess. Also begain putting PE on the cockpit. The instrument panel is all very pretty but ..perhaps I can muck it up a bit like I did the last one. Putting on the PE was easier this time around. (remember this is the second time that I have worked this kit. I have two! ) So maybe I am learning something!. Or drinking less coffee and have fewer shakes! The little guide tabs attached to the trailing edges of the Fowler flaps need to be sculpted a bit. They are way too blobby. I also fit and glued parts of the nacelles. I woke up this morning with the connection linking the end caps (attached to the Fowler flaps) and the landing gear bay all set in my mind... But working with the styrene it seems too elaborate so I may end up just pinning it in place. The saving grace here is that because I re-cut the end cap the connection should be almost invisible as the nacelles really shroud it. I had to modify the kit parts for the interior "floor/ceiling" of the nacelle and have reused the back bulkhead. Gluing it to my plasticard plug at the end. I have not found any photos of the interior of the landing bay yet. The kit provides some detail but it would be nice to touch it up a bit with something plausible. More to do! Thanks for watching. Terry (it's raining!...It will probably take a day or two for the snow to melt completely.)
  3. Thanks Tony. I remember seeing that info about the camo and markings but it's nice to have the link again so that I can add it to the file. I got some masks for the markings as it was obvious that the roundels with the kit were not right. The mask set also has a mask for the serial numbers which great considering the heavy wear that P6969 shows. Plus I wanted to try painting the markings. Thanks also for the thread about the kit. I will go through it and see if there is anything more that I can address. Thanks for looking in.
  4. Thanks for that Martin. Highly skilled modeling can be a bit of bore. Thought that I would provide a bit of light relief.
  5. So today started with a bit of a rude awakening. When I went to look at the Fowler flap I discovered that overnight the little elves had moved my pieces of plastic card to the trailing edge of the flap instead of the leading edge!.. hmm... Well removing them was out of the question so I added a slightly thicker strip to the leading edge to block out the airfoil profile!.. It actually was what I intended all along... really! So while that was curing. (I put these glue/putty jobs on the heater in my workshop to get them up to a livable temperature). I decided to add the top of the rudder to the now solidly attached main rudder. For some reason I thought that it would be a good idea to fill the void in the little rudder piece with epoxy and let it harden beforehand. Thinking that then I would just drill a nice hole (perfectly aligned) for the shaft coming from the main rudder... Well the gods were not with me (huge surprise!) and the hole was off-center Trying to fix it breached the skin of the rudder. So I used my Dremelclone to create a trench to lay the shaft in and back-filled with epoxy after getting the position just right... (that rudder is not going to move at all now Terry! Just you wait and see! ): If I was going to do this again, I think that I would only fill part of the void and then add epoxy to the area where the shaft would be and press it down onto the shaft. Secure it with tape and clean up the mess afterward. (the tail horn has a bit of tape acting as a separator between the epoxy and the horn..(the horn is that bulbous thingie that the elevators clip into..) So by now the glue on the Fowler flaps had set up enough for me to work on them, so I started sanding again to create my airfoil for the flap. As the plastic card feathered out at the trailing edge I realized that it would not hold the feathering and instead start to peel. So I scribed a line a bit back from the trailing edge and scraped off the cement and thin card.. Once that was done I slathered it with Bondo to fill the gap between the pieces of card and feather the edge: And that is were is sits for today. I decided that I had learned enough for one day and cleaned up my work space: Table saw makes a great table! Oh, one more thing, I just have to show you my little raised cutting block!... Bending over to work on small parts is a real pain in my neck so I glued a piece of old cutting board to a bit of 3 x 3 oak. It raises it just enough to ease the pain! All for now. Thanks for watching.. Rain tomorrow. So ice!... Oh boy, another day of modelling! Terry
  6. Thanks for the kind words Wlad.
  7. Finished the rough sanding of the fuselage. Or as much as I'm willing to do! Attached the main rudder to the fuselage. Using a bit of plastic tubing as a bearing at the top. Secured with Tamiya thin and then epoxy. Movement is still less that I would want but OK. Should have painted it! Will paint it before I seal the fuselage. I keep reading about the airplane and finding out more things, like that the main rudder was concave on one side (the port side I think) as it was attached to the tail off center.. I might try suggesting that, but should have done it before I attached it! Getting a little impatient today... the weather is changing and I'm not feeling that well... Added some plastic strips to the bottom of the cooler flaps to represent the guides that rollers on the Fowler flaps run in to lift the cooling flaps as the Fowler flaps are lowered. Note my favorite scriber below that I use to cut things off of the kit, like these flaps. Here is what the cooling flaps will look like in place, once I have added the side shrouds and attached them: Spent some time cutting and fitting plastic to fill the ends of the nacelles and their caps. Nothing glued as I figure out how to connect them: Finally, I cut out the Fowler flap and glued a strip of plastic card that I will contour for the upper side of the flap. On the other model I used Bondo to create the shape and I will no doubt use it here too, but less. Using that much Bondo on a thin strip of styrene has warped it a bit, but it is easily straightened when fit to the wing so no problem. Just thought I would take a different route this time. I attached the plastic card with Revell cement as I have seen others do when putting large surfaces together. So the cement, when it dries may bend the flap as well, but we will see. Its all about the learning! The rain starts tomorrow, so slushy, icy mess for a bit... Good old Oregon winter! Thanks for watching! Terry
  8. Here is a picture of the plane that I am trying to represent: Kind of weathered... they say that some of these planes never got a primer coat and so suffered from increased deterioration of the surface paint. The fuselage from the panel line aft of the cockpit was skinned with some magnesium alloy as apposed to the usual aluminium, I wonder if that had anything to do with it. After reading about this plane and it's fate I thought about doing an Ar196 float plane next. It is very hard to determine the shape of an aircraft based on photos because of the various angles of view and how they distort the proportions. Today was another sanding and filing day, starting with work on the rudder. I sanded the little interior fin attached to the main rudder and then went after the tail section where it is buried. Filing it out more to give the rudder some more wiggle room.. I think that I am pretty close to good enough for my purposes. I just want to show the rudder deflected by a few degrees which will be very noticeable when you see the upper section of the rudder out of line. Then onto the fuselage again. I added more styrene strips to the interior to help beef up the sides. Thanks Martian for the nudge. I then spent a few hours sanding and checking my drawings. Discovering that the kit is out of alignment and fatter on one side! There is nothing that I feel that I am capable of doing about the misalignment issue. Basically the center line of the model curves to the starboard as you head aft. Not much. But handling it and sanding and checking against the drawings brought it to my attention. I seemed to be sanding on one side most of the time! So there is a bit more sanding to do. I can see the white plastic card on the port side now! But to my eye the overall shape of the fuselage between the canopy and the tail looks better. I didn't glue the sides together, unlike the engine nacelles but the tape seems to be working OK. After a while the eyes get a little fatigued looking and checking the same form so I switched to the cleaning up a cutting mistake on the nacelles. Plastic strip added and then filled with Bondo: I have to think about how I am going to attach the end caps of the nacelles. The actual mechanical linkage is totally hidden from view so I suppose that I can just tie them together with a short length of straight wire like I did with the other kit. It won't look as bad because you can't see it... or.. I could attempt to build the actual linking mechanics.. hmm Finally today I filed down the rear radiator cooling flaps so that they were flat on the underside. On the other model I just cut them loose on two sides and scored and bent them in place but they had quite a pronounced bevel on the under surface which made it hard to attach the folding side baffles. Decided to keep the cut off flaps and not substitute plastic card as I believe the actual flaps have some thickness on the inboard edge. Pretty exciting stuff huh? Continues cold here in Portland and I had to stop working to stuff some foam under the door in my shop as there was an Arctic draft whistling on my neck! Hope you are staying warm and modelling on! Terry
  9. Thanks Martian, I was thinking the same thing. It appears to need most material removed from the sides, so today I will crack it open and add a few strips. Hope you are doing well. Terry I have to constantly remember to handle the nacelles like eggs! Thanks for looking in Tony. Mostly lesser goldfinches and juncos today! Welcome aboard Jorge. I'm no expert! There are so many more skillful modellers here, I hope that you are keeping your eyes open! Much to learn! Which is half the fun! Reconciler, I got the drawings off of the Whirlwind Fighter Project site. You need to register with them before you can get access to their galleries of photos and materials. The drawings are actual from a Kookaburra publication about the whirlwind. God knows how accurate they are but at least they say that they are based on the real drawings from the Air Ministry or Westland. http://www.whirlwindfighterproject.org/ Best of luck, Terry
  10. Got ready to work on shaping the fuselage. Added some strips to the top and bottom. Might have to add some to the sides as well. Also worked on the engine nacelles. Cut the tail the is attached to the Fowler flap more realistically than the kit's line. I also cut out the radiator exit flaps on the upper wings of the new model as I might replace them with plastic card. Worked on the rudder. Put some Miliputty on the lower rudder to duplicate the shape of the real rudder. We see how much I have to sand off to get it to move. Added some to the tail between the rudders to provide a bearing. Tomorrow I hope to get the rudder in place. We will see how well it works. That's after I finish sanding the fuselage... Thanks for looking in. Terry
  11. I've heard that John and I figure it's the perfect kit for a newbie like me! If I make an absolute hash of it, I can always blame the kit! Onward! Worked on the rudder. My first shot: All well and good, but mechanically ... not so much. The pivot point was at the wrong place and the rudder could not move more than a degree or two!... Redo! I decided that the pivot point needed to be much closer to the rudder, so I removed all the filler and plastic that I added to the rudder and tried again. This time trying to get the shaft as close as possible to the edge of the rudder... Glued the two pieces of plastic card buried in the rudder in place and then filled the space between them with epoxy to hopefully grip the shaft. The tab on the left is free wheeling on the shaft and will be glued to the tail. The upper halve of the rudder will be filled with epoxy and drilled out to accept the top of the shaft after it passes through another plastic "bearing" in the tail. So now it sits curing and I will see how it works out tomorrow. Meanwhile I started to work on reshaping the engine nacelles. First I filed and fitted the landing bay doors and glued them in place with PVA glue so that I could disassemble them easily after the sanding. Then I started sanding, and checking against my drawing... sanding and checking... Here is one done with the undone one at the top... huge difference right? Not!... Well I can see it but maybe no one else will notice... Here they are (after several hours) both done: Here is one against the drawing. The camera angle isn't great so the comparison isn't that good. But trust me they are pretty close! I sanded so much styrene off of the model that you could see through it! I will have to add some reinforcement I think for the landing gear! Here are the templates I used: Oh and I reshaped the spinners too. It's been quiet here in Portland what with the snow... lots of time for modeling... I suppose that I will have to get out in the car at some point.. but being retired has it's advantages! Robins at the heated birdbath... those are the North American variety... a thrush by any other name.. Take care! Terry
  12. I compared the kit to the drawings again today and the tail looks OK so I'm not going to mess with it. Well... I decided to cut the rudder off and articulate it. It is really an eye-catching aspect of this plane, especially when turned a bit. So... The two parts are connected via a shaft and I think both have a bit added to them to keep the aerodynamics when it is turned. Here is the actual thing. (on the right.) I have to figure out how I will attach it to the tail but that's enough for today. Cheers Terry
  13. Interesting idea perhaps I should do the same with these two kits although the corrections are so slight it might be hard to notice much of a difference unless you knew the subject really well. Might also be interesting to other manufacturer's versions like the Cooper Details kit. Saw one for sale for 45£! I guess that I am a little worried about that thickness issue as viewed from the side. I will work on the tail and the nacelles as you say they really catch your eye. Thanks for the advise Martian!
  14. Well I plowed ahead with shortening the fuselage Martin! The reasons being that it looked pretty straightforward and since I have two models now I felt a bit secure in just chopping one up! The drawing shows a portion of the fuselage that is almost cylindrical and I decided to take my slice from between the two bulkheads or whatever they are called, #8 and #9. Tape as guide. Scribed it first then micro saw. Working on both sides of the slice at once. It came away pretty well and after a few swipes on a sanding board the two halves mated quite well. Just a small step in spots. I then taped the halves back together leaving space to apply a few spots of Tamiya Extra Thin. Let it set up and then gently split the fuselage the long way as it comes off the sprue. I made up some little "T" beams out of plastic card and glued them inside the fuselage over the join to provide some strength. If I remember I will apply some modeling cement to further secure the T's. Taped the halves back together and got out the putty. I use Bondo putty (comes in a tube), I assume that it is like P38 that is available in Britain. Putty, sanding, more putty, more sanding... Still not there but close enough for now. So that rubicon is crossed, God help me!... The fuselage is also a little too thick through the area from the cockpit to the tail and by shortening the length I have accentuated that a bit. So I will have to decide what to do about that! the amount that it is off is about the thickness of the kit fuselage itself so no easy solution there... perhaps if i just filled the bottom of the fuselage with a layer of plastic card and Bondo I could sand away until I got the profile right... Bit scary that! Keeps it fun huh? Thanks for checking in!
  15. While waiting for a replacement canopy, I did a little work on the wings. Installed the PE representing the struts and radiators: Replaced the foil shrouds for the cooling exit flaps with plastic card and added the two strips (not cut to length) that represent the channels that the Fowler flap rollers ride in to raise the exit flaps for the ratiators: I also replaced the pieces of polished clear sprue that had inserted for the landing lights on the wing bottoms. They just didn't look right and so I removed them and used a dab of Krystal Klear to show the lens retracted. I don't have any good pictures of what they actually look like when extended ... so just a guess. Today I spent my time downloading and resizing drawings of the aircraft so that I could try to see the problems with the kit. From the drawings that I have it looks like the nacelles can be trimmed a bit to conform more closely to the actual look of the plane, but the fuselage needs quite a bit of modification (assuming the scale drawings that I have are correct) From what I can see the areas of concern are: 1: the fuselage is too long. 2. the canopy (sliding part) is not long enough. 3 the tail is not deep enough (not sure about that.. perhaps it was too deep!... ah the memory is going!) 4 the nose is too pointy (as are the spinners!) Not sure how much I am willing to do. But one step at a time and I'm still enjoying the process... I can see why many modelers have several kits going at the same time... and why I have heard "I think I need to do one OOB, and easy build...! Thanks for watching and hope the New Year is treating you well!