This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Sprueloose

Members
  • Content count

    48
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

164 Excellent

About Sprueloose

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Republic of Portland, Oregon USA

Recent Profile Visitors

88 profile views
  1. Just beautiful. I have been enjoying watching you do justice to this lovely kit!
  2. Martian, I for one would relish watching what you do with a "relaxing" build. For someone just starting in this art it is very useful to see how you deal with the even the simplest kit.
  3. Not much to show for a day's work on the engine air intakes: Work to do on the props and spinners too. Thanks for looking. Terry
  4. So my cunning plan came to naught. When I tried to set up a lattice with the stretched sprue it was just to unstable to hold together long enough to let the PVA to set. So I decided to just glue the diagonal braces to the kit part with VA and then glue the braces together at the ends with epoxy: Besides being rather bulbous looking it just didn't hold together after soaking it in water to soften the PVA glue and gently cutting it away from the kit part. Plan B. I used Tamiya Cement, just goopy modelling cement and used the kit part to cut my pieces of sprue and stick them in the intakes. I managed to get one end of the piece stuck to the cement and then gently move the other end into position: Not perfect but I felt lucky to get them in there!. Looking at the photo I noticed that the front ends of the air intake/exhaust tubes didn't look right on the kit. Here is what they look like in real life: So I added some Bondo and will ease them into the nacelle at the front. This gentle curve only happens at the front end, plus you can see the separation of the nacelle cowl and the actual intake. I also did a little more sanding on the props trying to close in on the proper shape. That's it for today. Time for a walk while it's not raining! Terry
  5. Martian the intakes may look better but in looking at the photo of the real plane and then looking at the model I realized that I had put the PE that represents the diagonal bracing in the first wing strut up side down! Here is what I mean: I knew that it would bother me forever so I ripped the PE out and cleared the way to add the bracing back in. I decided to use stretched sprue instead of wire because I thought that it might be easier to glue in place. So I set about learning how to stretch sprue. It took a while to get the hang of it. I used a piece of wire as a template to try to match the thickness. I will sort through and find the best sized pieces. But the real problem is going to be gluing these little pieces in place. At first I thought that if I provide some spacers of wood I could set the braces correctly. I used the kit part as a guide for spacing as it looked right: But getting those little pieces in place was too much for my shaky hands, perhaps after a few beers. Anyway I have a cunning plan: I will use the kit part to lay out the little pieces and attach them together from the rear with a bit of stretched sprue and once the whole thing is a lattice in one piece I will see if I can manage to insert it into the intake and glue it in place. It's a plan. We shall see how it works out. More rain and the basement is wet again! House was built in 1911 and they didn't wash the aggregate when they made the concrete for the foundation! So over the years the water has leached out all of the organic matter and the foundation is a wee bit porous. Spring is almost here! Thanks for checking in. Terry
  6. One of the many things that I have been looking at as I work my way around this model, is the intakes for the radiators at the wing fronts. Here is what they should look like: Notice the way that the openings meet the fuselage. Here is the kit: Granted I have hacked away at the kit to move the PE back into the wing and position the radiators at a more realistic depth, but you can see that there is a huge step on the engine side and a bulky protrusion at the root. The kit also doesn't do the air intakes for the engines justice. So I did a little more hacking today. I am embarrassed to admit just how much I enjoy hacking this kit up! After days of filling and sanding, sanding, the opportunity to remove some offending styrene is quite a rejuvenator! Here is how it sits tonight. Port side filled and waiting for some sanding, starboard root done and engine side waiting to be modified. I basically ground off the bits of plastic and removed enough to allow the insertion of a piece of sculpted sprue on the fuselage side. The more that I look at the photos the more I see to do, but there is an end. Although this is only the third month! Thanks for checking in. Terry
  7. Reconcilor, I had a look at your mig 15 build and the half laminated idea. I may investigate that if the decal route doesn't get me what I want. Thanks for thinking of that, and great build by the way! I will stay the course with the Whirlwind and have put the boat in a cabinet! Thanks for checking in Martian. It does look like fun! Just a little more done. Finished the interior framework for the canopies and painted them: Cut the ailerons out and reattached them with stainless steel pins set in epoxy: Filled them back over with epoxy and filler: Continuing the filling and sanding of both kits. Here is the old one: Lots more filling and sanding to do. I think that I am learning that the ideal build is one in which you do not sand the surface of the model at all! But it is still fun to work to get it to look better than what came out of the box. Thanks for looking. Terry
  8. Thanks Martian for the advice. I will try to restrain myself! I have managed to reduce my drawing of the breakout window in Photoshop and am now contemplating filling it with a very, very pale gray and changing the lines to white or just adding white lines to the black. Trying to represent the plastic pieces is an interesting challenge. Here is what I have so far after an hour of adjusting in Photoshop: I suppose that I will do several different versions of the decal and select the best looking one. Moved ahead on the canopies. Masked them and painted them adding a coat of Testor's Dullcote Lacquer over top to try and protect them. Glued the tiny support V in place and will cut it off at the right level before attaching the base members that are secured to the bottom of the rear canopy. Tiny fiddly bits! Also cut out the ailerons and filled the voids with Bondo. The molded lines for these flaps were embarrassing to look at, so a bit more work. Trying to stay the course here, but my Christmas gift arrived and sits in the wings: Looks to be a lovely kit with a booklet of photos. Keeping the box firmly closed! Thanks for checking in! Terry
  9. Well the tape idea didn't work, at least Future does not make a very good glue. The next day I went to exam the canopy and my little pudgy breakout window had fallen off. So I had to rethink that approach. Plus the execution was not that great. Cutting out little pieces of plastic by hand is not a good way to end up with something that looks like a machine produced shape. So I ordered some decal paper and fixative from Popilio and drew an image for reduction. I did try another type of thin plastic and cut it out using a needle, which was much better. But was unable to find a suitable glue. Also my little templates don't quite match the object. So perhaps the decal will have to do. It hopefully will have crisper lines, but it's look will be different than something semitransparent lying on the surface. Compromise seems in order. Meanwhile I kept plugging away at the rest of the canopy details. Remember there are two to do!. I really couldn't do anything with the hash I made of the old canopy so decided to drill a large hole that covered all three scars that I created and then plug the hole with a bit of clear sprue. Looks terrible but, marginally better than the "bullet holes" that were there before. I am treating the first kit as my prototype and learning a lot. Made another brass antenna support and glued it into a new hole in the old canopy: Glued the reinforcing strip up the back of the new canopy, as well as the PE at the front where it mates with the front portion of the canopy: Folded up some PE brass to create the rear view mirror as the kit canopy's molded mirror is too small: Also painted the internal support members for the canopies. But have yet to figure out how to install them without gobs of epoxy. All this attention to the canopy has got me realizing just how inaccurate the kit canopy is. Not sure that the length is wrong. The profile may be off both from the front and the side. But they molded the framework in the wrong place I think any way, if there is one lesson that I hope to take away from this build, it's to check and double check the photos and plans before doing anything! Sigh... Learning can be painful, but modelling is still fun!!! Thanks for checking in. Terry
  10. Martian does plastic age? Does an older kit's plastic get more brittle with age? I realize that the quality of the styrene varies from manufacture to manufacture but does old plastic work differently than new? Just wondering.
  11. Here is a "better" picture of the blobby thing that I will call a knock-out panel. (until I try the make your own decal route!). I will add some marks to represent the bolts etc and see how I like it... Eye sight failing.. So standards lowering... Damn you camera close ups!!! But seriously, I might get some injet decal sheets and see if I can come up with something better. The problem being how to print something transparent... Outlines I guess.. Anyway for "do it with the skills and materials at hand.. I might be able to make it work.. The three foot rule looms large... Should I change this thread's title to Sow's Ear? Basement still wet, but drying... sigh. Terry
  12. I did think about the decal option Martian but thought I would try cutting out a bit of de-gunked Scotch tape. Seemed to have worked although my photo is not the best. I will go back in and add the six bolts with a needle after the Future dries. I used a PE template from Eduard. Cut out the inner ellipse first and then the center a larger one to cut the final ellipse. I then positioned the little ring and dabbed it with a drop of Future to cement it in place. Sorry that the photo is a bit out of focus. The other thing that I worked on today was the cannon ports on the nose. Adding the bulges around the lower two and added the washer and captured nut that secures the nose cone to the cannon framework. That's it for today. Going out for our anniversary tonight! 36 years of wedded bliss. Thanks for watching. Terry
  13. These aren't quite that bad and to my eye it doesn't appear that they used the kit parts as a model. The kit parts are skinny and lack detail that the PE only partly supplies and the after market metal pieces are rather chunky but with hints of detail, plus they are sturdy! Not a bad thing for someone who is prone to snapping things off! So I decided to stop staring at the fuselage and seeing more areas for putty and sanding, and start on the canopy. The first thing that I felt needed to be corrected was on the back portion of the canopy. The kit shows a nice big molded metal framework at the leading edge. The edge that mates with the front. Not there in the real world. So I decided to sand it off. There is a bit of PE that glues to the mating face of the back canopy that should help represent the real situation. Here is the kit part dipped in Future: Here is a picture of the real thing: Note the breakout opening. I have to figure out how to represent that too. Scotch tape?. Anyway you can see that the rear canopy is rather complex with an internal metal structure and that leading or mating edge is much narrower than the middle frame. So things that the kit does not have: the breakout window (that oval on the starboard side of the rear or sliding canopy, the navigation light at the apex of the middle framework. The strip up the back of the canopy and it's supporting member. You will have to take my word for the fact that the rear view mirror is much bigger in real life that the little knob that is cast into the front canopy piece. I corrected this on the old model version, but need to do it again for this canopy. So I protected the canopy with a bit of tape and started filing.. Here is the outcome. Not perfect but better I think. You can see the distortion a the leading edge but not too back. The plastic is so out of scale. Perhaps one day I will vacuum form my own canopy. So while I was waiting for a second coat of Future to dry I attached bits of clear sprue to the tail to represent a navigation light at the rear and a perspex covered treminus for the antenna, just above the horn (that bulbous thing separating the two sections of the rudder. All well and good but in doing so, I had to actually look at the tail and the elevators that I had put on yesterday. Put on upside down! Sigh! What is funny is that I put them on correctly on the old version and noticed that their pins were off center, but some how in the heat of battle didn't notice that I had them reversed. Sooo ... a little butchery and : While I have them off I realized that they should have gone much later, they totally get in the way of sanding the tail. So pressing on, I sculpted the two bits of clear sprue .Note the heavy duty guard for the tail wheel. Another casualty of Terry's ham fistedness. Learning, learing... I hope!!! I have also been working on the nose. The lower ports for the cannons should have a bit of a bulge about them that the kit does not show. So I am adding a bit with epoxy. Pictures of that when it's more presentable. Rain and more rain here. The basement is still dry. So that's good. Winter in Oregon. Thanks for watching. Terry
  14. I shall sit in the back and watch with interest Martian. Old kits seem to be my future.
  15. I have been spending time bringing the original model (unmodified) up to the same state of completion as the one that I did all the alterations on. I had already cut out and modified the Fowler flap and the radiator flap, but I decided to return them to their out of box condition to provide a contrast with the newer version. Here is the newer version in it's present state. I attached the Fowler flap and the elevators. The nacelles are glued in place and I added brake lines. The Fowler flaps aren't perfect but they will have to do. Here is a look at both kits side by side. The newest is on the left : Out of box kit: Modified version: Modified version at the top. Hard to see the shortened and slimmed down fuselage: Detailing on the new version. The glob of Bondo is covering the site of my through drilling to pin the nacelle end cap to the nacelle body. Here is the old version landing gear. I was rather disappointed with the after-market metal landing gear that I got for the new version and so started putting PE on the kit landing gear to see if I could swap it out. But after looking at the two again I decided to leave well enough alone and stay with the metal landing gear. The brake line is a nice touch, although I think I attached it to the bottom of the drum instead of the top. Enough for now. It's been very busy here and I have to attack the new canopy next! Tremble!... Thanks for watching. Terry