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About Bullbasket

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  1. Welcome aboard Malc. What do you like to model? John.
  2. Thanks G. You're right, and this makes number 17 for me. Thanks for the info on the wheels. Over on ML, Kurt Laughlin thought that the holes may have had something to do with fitting them, but wasn't sure. John.
  3. Thanks for that. The photo is quite a well known one that has appeared in several books. It basically shows a column of RMASG Centaurs lined up in Hampshire in April 1944, and not as one publication would have you believe, in France after D-Day. John.
  4. Thanks everyone for the very positive comments. It was an enjoyable build and once I get my hands on some (cheap) Tamiya Cromwells, there are a few more conversions that I have in mind. John.
  5. I won't go into detail with regards to the build as it's all in the WIP pages, except to say that this is a conversion from the Tamiya Cromwell using new road wheels, main gun and other bits and pieces. I made the base from a piece of plywood and added a road surface and some paving slabs along with a lamppost taken from an Airfix OO/HO scale kit. I wanted to depict the tank as it appears in the well known photo which was taken in Spring 1944 down on the south coast somewhere. The figures came from the excellent white metal series by Dartmoor Military Models. They have blue/black berets with red backing to the badges to show that although Royal Marines, they are not commando trained. Most came from armoured regiments. John. The mess tin and towel were put there to cover up a bad join that I'd omitted to sort out before painting!
  6. You can get surgical pants for that! Thanks for the comments Sean and in advance for the drawings. Centaur should be on the RFI in a mo. Regards, John.
  7. Thanks Houston. I must say that this is a build that I'm thoroughly enjoying it. John.
  8. Thanks Francis. John.
  9. Well, it's absolutely persisting down outside but nice and cosy in front of the log burner. On the home straight now with the finishing post in sight. Once the upper hull had been sprayed with the same mix as the lower hull and then glossed, it was time to apply the decals. At the time I built this (2013), there were no decals for a Centaur in 1/48th scale. I'd had dealings in the past with Ernst Peddinghaus of Peddinghaus Decals when I'd needed markings for a tank when none were available from other manufacturers (an M50 in 1/48th scale), so I contacted him, sent him photos and profiles and a while later for a very reasonable price, I got a set of Centaur markings in 1/48th. To apply these decals needed care as they are quite thin and also they needed to be cut to fit around the large rivets on the side of the turret. But once on, they looked the business. A further coat of gloss sealed them in and I was able to move onto the weathering. I applied a mix of acrylic gel, household filler, some fine sand and a squeeze of raw umber acrylic paint to the lower hull and under the track guards and when it had dried, it was brushed with various earth pigments. I kept the rest of the weathering to just pin washes. The wheels and tracks were given a wash of Mig's Dark Wash and when this had dried, the tops of the tracks were rubbed with a silver water colour pencil. Final detail painting began with the pioneer tools. The metal parts were painted black and rubbed with graphite, the wooden handles were painted acrylic cream and then had yellow ochre oil paint lightly wiped over them. In the open stowage bin there is a cardboard box which I painted cream and then applied decals from the Fighting 48th decal sheet for compo boxes. The tins were painted green with some vague markings on them. The blanket was painted a blue/grey colour because that's the colour that I remember the ones that my Dad brought home from the Navy after the war. I tried to paint the small arrow in the corner with WD underneath, but it's difficult to see. Final paint jobs were the pads on the hatches in a leather colour, the stowage on the rear track guards and the coolant tank and associated pipework, before sliding the wheels and track assemblies onto their stub axles. And that is it. I really enjoyed the build. All that remained to be done was the base. If I get time tomorrow, I'll put the finished article complete with base and figures on the RFI page. John.
  10. My advice would be to try it out on a piece of scrap first. Spray a piece of plastic with OD then try your weathering methods on that. If it all goes belly up, at least you haven't messed up a model. But if you can lay your hands on any oil paints (red, blue, white, yellow), you could try the dot method. Apologies here if you're already familiar with this. Just dab the various colours on the side of the tank, and then using a small brush, damp with thinners, draw the brush down to blend the oils in. This method is very good for achieving a worn, weathered appearance. Remember though, it needs to be done on a gloss surface, otherwise the matt paint tends to soak up the oil. HTH's. John.
  11. That's looking good Chris, but one thing I would point out (if you didn't already have it in mind to do anyway), you muddied the running gear but left the lower hull clean. If each unit is still removable, slide them off and treat the hull the same way as the wheels. With regards to adding water streaks, one method that you could have used was to use oil paints and thinners, but that needs to be done on a gloss surface. AK and MIG do some materials specifically for this. One method that I use is MIG's green fading pigment. They also do a grey. Stroked on with a thin brush it can have a good effect. John.
  12. Absolutely beautiful model, made all the more amazing by the small scale. Bothe the tank and the building are superb. John.
  13. Very nice job on the Panther, and the base sets it off. John.
  14. Lovely job as always Sean. The build has been first class and the painting and weathering ditto. Just a shame about the cable. Something I bought from Eileen's Emporium would do the trick. Nickle silver wire. It comes in various thicknesses. Regards, John.
  15. Looking good so far. One thing though. That stowage on the engine deck definitely needs to be tied down, otherwise the crates would part company with the tank. John.