Totally Mad Olivier
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Everything posted by Totally Mad Olivier
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Thanks a lot Harvey, glad to have news from you! How are you? And your Fiat? I have to confess I have so few time and I am so focused on my own build that I forgot to see your progress. I promise I will very soon ! All the best Olivier -
As I have to wait to get ordered parts, especially the Eduard set for Airfix, meanwhile, I go on preparing the parts for the next steps. For example, the exhausts, that need to be hollowed. I did that with first 0,4 mm drill and then 0,5 mm, taking care of the axis (manually, of course). I finished that task by using sparingly the Tamiya liquid thin cement.
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Just seen in Blu ray DVD the great Christopher Nolan film « Dunkerque » (Dunkirk) that I had missed. A masterwork, a necessary film that shows the extraordinary British fighting spirit, while all went so wrong. My next aircraft should be a Spitfire, definitely, at 1/48 or 1/32.
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I have finally decided to order the Eduard Brassin paper tanks. I will compare with mine and chose the best... but as John suggested, the Eduard product has something going for. Furthermore, I have asked JMV about the challenge of double bending the very fragile Eduard parts 25 (left side) and 26 (right side) from the set for Airfix, to get outside and top part of the rail (see above). He very cleverly suggested me to use a ruler. But a ruler is too thick, the top part (distance between the 2 up bendings) is about only 0,3 mm! That is why I should use a 0,25 mm thickness brass sheet from Albion Alloys in combination with my Master Tools (L) PE Bender. I will do a small tuto (if it works...) when I will get it and do it...
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Yes John, that's what I meant in my post #291. And from this point of view, let's admit that the Eduard Brassin tanks are very convincing, with their metal mounting straps independent from the tanks... Of course, it is possible to represent that with scratch but...
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Even if I am not sure at all I will buy them, it is to mention that Eduard Brassin offers in after market these 108 gallon paper drop tanks. If you don't want to lose time in filling and sanding the joints on the Tamiya parts, these items may be a good choice...
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I was not very happy with my 108 gallon drop tanks, especially about the cementing joint. I have decided to use liquid cyano as a filler in these joints and to sand without taking care of removing the 2 central reliefs (they were even almost removed), as I intended to use alu BMF to rebuild them. Other little improvements and new application of alu True Metal on the tank with a flat brush, slightly thinned with Tamiya X20 . Now I am quite glad, but it was a long and patient job to get the result... I love the very natural True metal look, a great product.
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Thanks Squibby for this hint. It is indeed a good option and I will follow it if my next try with PE is again unsuccessful (I hope it won't!) I have assembled and prepared the very nice Tamiya 108 gallon paper tanks. Here, the challenge is to make disappear the cement joint without removing fine details and reliefs (I am averagely satisfied of what I got, despite a patient work). Then I have drilled a small hole inside the fixing hollow and put into it a piece of stretched plastic, to handle easily the parts. I have then applied with a cotton swab the excellent AK 455 alu True Metal, polished after a while:
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Waiting for the ordered parts, I go on with other parts of my build. A little topic about the 108 gallon paper drop tank (I ignored such paper tanks were used, they were used for a single mission, their sealing being provided for only 12h). I have chosen this option rather than the 75 gallon steel drop tank also provided in the Tamiya kit because it is the one we can see on the Missouri Armada pics (doc. 20 and 23). N.B: imho these tanks show red lines and no relief there, while the doc 20 suggests a relief (like the kit) at this level and the same color: I suppose the red lines were just marks for the mechanics and the relief were kinds of support...
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Thanks a lot Dennis and Garry. Your kind comments arrive at the best moment, while I am fighting against big challenges (see above). I have decided to order again (Hannants) the Eduard set for Tamiya. Why? just because I know I will never be able to get this by myself: ... considering that the total lenght of this rail is about 16 mm! I will have to be very careful to separate without damaging the rail... I still don't know if I will keep the top part, that is more easy to represent (see my post #281). If I want to keep it, I have to find a way to do the double bend as the Eduard instructions suggests: I think it is a better idea to keep only the outside part, with round and oval holes... Yes, Garry, this pic is the only one I know showing this patch. I am of course very concerned by this pic, as the Missouri Armada had such a patch, slightly visible on the doc 20...
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Thanks John! I will need faith and courage indeed not only because of this challenge to represent correctly this rail but also because in the many handles above, I have damaged a bit some scratch parts I had done on the left Inside panel! (I highly recommend to do first the canopy rail before working on the left - and right - panels.) This build will turn me mad...
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In my reflection, I have remembered that the Eduard PE canopy rail for Airfix, not fitting well on the Tamiya kit, was looking very good: A real task however to do that double bending (!)... Personally, I did it for the left side unsuccessfully. I will try to use a portion (outside at least) of this excellent but fragile PE part, completing with scratch... 1 hour later: I have tried to separate the outside portion but it is very fragile and has broken while I was cutting. So, I will probaly just inspire myself of this part and will try to do a 100% scratch...
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I have just ordered on ebay the ref. 8203 from Evergreen: 0,56 mm x 0,84 mm rectangular strip, with the idea to replace my canopy rail, not very satisfying as I just said above. I won't get it before at least 3 weeks. Meanwhile, I will work on other elements, unless I am not patient enough to wait... Let's focus on this rail with an enlargement of the great doc 92, to understand what is the problem with the Eduard rail: The Eduard goes from this level (1), too low. Its shape would be OK but there should be posts (3) so that the rail begins higher. Notice that there is a gap through which we can see the pilot's beige dress (2).The construction should take that in consideration, what is of course uneasy at 1/48... I should have chosen a 1/32 kit! We can see these posts and gaps on the doc 89a below, as on other ones, like fe 18b, 44, 53, 55 etc.
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1- The Tamiya part doesn’t take in consideration the cut for the K14 as we can see on the 5th Antonio doc above. I made this cut. 2- The same doc, and other ones, shows rivets here. I have added them. 3- Added too, the thin weather seal, black grey. 4- I have glued in place the scratch part (pic 78) with the small holes. I have painted it alu but on the doc 24D with England, it seems to be rather dark grey, as on the doc 92. I will change that... P.S: the more I look at this canopy rail, the more I think the Eduard holes (on the outside) are much too small. I wonder if I should not redo them completely by scratch...
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I have begun to scratchbuild the portion that will thicken the too thin PE part, using 0,5 mm x 0,5 mm squarre section Evergreen:
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Thanks a lot, Antonio for your docs. Indeed, on this doc, we can read "no step" and there seems to be a thin joint (rubber?). But I must admit I still wonder what I should represent: indeed, in some pics, there seems to be nothing: while there seems to be a metal squarre shape sliding rail on other ones: ... and a rubber rounded shape on other ones, especially the John England Missouri Armada: In front of such contradictory docs, and because I am building the Missouri Armada, I will choose the weather seal option.
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Thanks a lot, John, canopy rail was the right word. I edit my previous post... Cheers Olivier
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The Eduard PE sliding canopy rail is much too thin. 2 more docs showing that and some other details: Doc. 89: 1- As I said above, the Eduard PE must be thickened 2- This black joint is missing on some of the docs I saw (6, 18 and 90 below), while it seems to be present on other ones (24, 33). I wonder if it must be represented... Doc. 90: 1- we can see rivets (on the doc. 89 too..) here, to add. 2- In the hollows of the rail, the color is IG, the rest is to paint, as I said above, alu mat.
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Thanks Antonio, I agree with you. My fluo lights will not be fixed on the canopy post. All our docs seem to confirm that it was fixed inside the left front panel (except the left one on doc. 87). And now a new slow progress: 1- the outside part of the Eduard PE: the small holes had been hollowed a bit more before cementing. The natural metal appears but this gold color is imho not correct, I will apply an alu mat on it 2- I first thought I would use a rubber small joint to represent the rounded shape, but finally, I just scraped the polystyrene with my triangular blade and it is now acceptable (I will try to round it a bit more however) On this joint and on the 2 small reliefs, I applied the 994 Dark Grey Vallejo to enhance these elements on the black (950) part. 3- We have 2 versions of the area where the IG is replaced by black. I have chosen this one, unlike the Tamiya instructions sheet.
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A little tuto (and questions...) about this area. We have both sides cockpit fluorescent lights, but on the left doc, it is mounted on the canopy, while it is mounted on a plate fixed on the front left side on the 2 other docs. I wonder if this plate (?) was present on WWII P-51D, or if the lights were fixed on the canopy like the left picture shows... Antonio (or someone else), come to my aid, please! Still another version of this area: Another pic (from which the right picture on doc 87 is taken), showing the dashboard and partially the left and right panels. We can see the 2nd fluo light on right side (arrow 2), but also, notice that round joint (arrow 1), while the edges are squarred on the Tamiya (and probably the other brands too) kit: I will try to represent this round edge on my build.
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The left panel will be soon over: Here is a first dry fit assembly with the cockpit:
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New slow progress on my left panel: 1- walls missing on the Tamiya kit in the radio compartment added (scratch) 2- Shadows - with a wash applied (Brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color) - and lights (Vallejo acrylics) to outline the walls and other details 3- Mad added (HQ impression of doc. 85 on an ordinary paper) 4- Scraping (with care) of the painted PE Eduard here, to get the metal look (on the rivets too) 5- Detail added (scratch) 6- Switches added and radiator controls painted 7- Throttle added (this part is in progress)
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Sure I can. JMV refers to Juan Manuel Villalba, that I often mentioned in the thread. I learnt a lot from him, and we have become friends. I allow myself to post here a JMV tuto (because it is public) in which you will see how he creates folds and 3D effect by adding some wrinkles (rat tail file, fe) and then by painting flat black lines and finally light grey ones under the black ones (Vallejo acrylics). I used the same technique to create folds on the headrest cushion. P.S: I recall that Juan made a great DVD about the P-51D Missouri Armada 1/48 Tamiya. I highly recommend this DVD to anyone interested by aircraft modelling, especially if you intend to build the P-51D...
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One more time, I quote myself to bring the answer to my own question. The doc 58 mentions: "flare cartridge pouch" for the flare gun. These items could be used by the pilot to give his position for search and rescue if he had jumped out of the aircraft with his parachute, I suppose. N.B: this enlargement will be useful too for me to get a convincing "flare cartridge pouch"...
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I found the answer to this question here (1000 thanks to Antonio again!): So, the interior color is Chromate Yellow, but the rear portion of this part will be black (invasion strip).
