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Totally Mad Olivier

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Everything posted by Totally Mad Olivier

  1. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, This time, the Top Studio fuel tank step is really over, with the adding of last connectors and cables: Now will I place the rear part of the fuel tank (set A3/A19/A23), that is headed itself by the seat cowl? Not sure, we shall see... About the issue of different options, you probably guessed which one has my preference. Manu's suggestion is definitely interesting and original, but showing the 2 Honda bikes in competition side by side, one with its fairing in place, one without, revealing the complexity of these beasts, is the most exciting project for me. And why not add a mechanic working on Pedrosa's bike? When I had built several years ago the Fiat 806, I had represented the driver, Pietro Bordino, but at some point, I wondered if I wouldn't add a mechanic. At the time, I had done research to find mechanics figurines at 1/12 and bought old Tamiya ones to a Japanese seller on ebay. I had finally renounced to use one or more of them, and they were sleeping ever since in my garage. Here they are: These sets instructions are only in Japanese, but it is of course not a problem. The decals are very old but anyway, they are not adapted to a 2014 GP Honda team. I began to search pics showing Honda mechanics and found fe this: I decided to assemble the first mechanic of the pic above (Wheel changing). Here he is in situation: N.B: of course, the bike will be removed from the jig, just hold by the racing stand... Cheers, O P.S: Manu, if you could explain me how could get such the incredibly expressive and realistic head you could get for your Fiat 806 driver, I would be very grateful.
  2. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks Manu for this interesting suggestion of a cutaway. Like each one of the options, it has advantages and disadvantages. Let’s consider them: 1) Cowls in place: ad: it is the way we are used to see the bike. The cowls colors are very nice and fun. It is also like that I initially wanted to build it (I had no idea I would go so far in detailing) dis: it’s a pity to have spent so much time on fine details that will be more or less hidden 2) Cowls on a separate fairing: ad: the bike is showed naked, showing all the details usually invisible dis: esthetically (for my taste), the bike is nicer cowls in place 3) Manu´s suggestion (cutaway): ad: allows to see in a single build the bike with and without cowls (not necessary to build a 2 nd bike). The amazing build Manu made of the 806 gives a good perception of this option advantages. dis: in reality, except maybe in a museum (and yet), the real bike is never showed like that 4) 2 bikes, one with one without cowls: ad: allows to see Marc Marquez and Dani Pedrosa bikes side by side, one with, one without cowls. Combines in fact the advantages of options 1 and 2 dis: - my Mustang is left aside for a longer time… Conclusion: I will probably choose one of the 2 last options. I personally would prefer the last one, to avoid cutting "artificially" all the cowls in the middle, but I admit that the Manu's cutaway is very convincing. Notice that the 2nd bike, even built with care (not an OOB, definitely), should take much less time, as I would not spend time to share here the build (only the final result would be showed in the RFI section), then because it would be a bit more simple (probably use of the Top Studio set 23175 instead of the 29016 one), then because of the experience I gained with this first build. In fact, the idea to build a 2 nd bike doesn’t bother me. Cheers, O
  3. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, A new little update: Cheers, O
  4. Totally Mad Olivier
    I said in a previous post that I could decide to build a second bike with cowls in place. This 2nd bike would be the Marc Marquez one (this one is Dani Pedrosa's one). That would make sense. Could I decide to build this 2nd bike really OOB? I don’t think so, as you can imagine that I will be strongly tempted to improve it. Less time would be spent on areas hidden by the cowls, but the same care would be brought on all visible areas cowls in place. I had really built (in 3 weeks) an OOB version of the Fiat 806, after 13 months spent on a Partial Scratch Built one, to enhance the deep improvements brought (much more important than for this bike as the Protar/ Italeri kit was poor what we really can't say about the Tamiya Honda Repsol). The advantage of such an option would be that my Mustang would not be left apart for too much time... But things are a bit different this time, as in my mind, if I build another Honda Repsol, it will be aiming to be long term exposed near this one, just with cowls in place (my OOB Fiat was exposed just a little time). We shall see, I have not made a final decision on this matter…
  5. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hopefully a bit earlier, Jochen... As I still have to wait for the 0,3 mm cables, I am gonna focus now on the fuel tank (step 21 of the Tam instructions, p. 7 of the Top studio ones). Cheers, O
  6. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I wanted my job on this area to be over before showing the different steps I had to follow to get a quite convincing result. It is now done. So: 1) Takes into account Jochen input and research of screen captures to get the best perception possible of the elements to represent: 2) Removal of the Tamiya wrong bracket: 3) Scratchbuild of the lower right hex screw head and upper hex screw thread assembly: N.B: the Black round pad was cut with 2,4 mm Punch and die (RP Toolz) in 0,4 mm thickness plastic card, the metal ones were cut in 0,2 mm thickness tin sheet (2,4 mm diam. pad) and 0,5 mm thickness tin sheet (1,3 mm diam. pad). The 1,07 mm metal hexagonal nut had been ordered (among others) when I was building the Fiat on Knupfer, a great german modelers site (pity no english or french version) suggested then by Hannes in the Fiat 806 research thread. 4) New application of carbon (stocking method) on the exhaust protection B10 and assembly of D11 and upper hex screw head: 5) New decal placement and assembly of the exhaust protection after cutting the too long arm at lower right: Well, I am glad to have improved significantly this area. It is curious that Top Studio, so demanding in general, did not provide such a solution to get something more faithful to the original… Cheers, O
  7. Totally Mad Olivier
    Ok Jochen, now I understand better, even without picture drawing service or drawing software 😉 I show below exactly the way Top Studio suggests to assemble the D15 parts (washers?) on D11. I agree with you to say that this is wrong: these parts D15 should better take place differently imho and without staking them: I will try to do the necessary corrections but it will be delicate... About the wide right lower hex screw head, the latter and the wider part around seem to be in one piece. May we find such a particular head? I don't know, but imho, the hex head itself should be around 1,2 mm and the kind of disc portion around 2,5 mm: Jochen (or anyone else), if you could find me this particular head in such dimensions somewhere, it would be great (I would prefer a full metal piece). Where appropriate, I would have to scratch build it... Cheers, O
  8. Totally Mad Olivier
    I'm not sure I understood what you meant, Jochen. Did you mean that you thought this other bracket is a Top Studio part and not a Tamiya one? If so, I confirm that it is a Tamiya one. In fact, it is included on the Tamiya C26 right exhaust part. But, as the abstract below of the TS instructions shows, Top Studio, for this time, did not provide a solution to avoid this "wrong bracket": I have not taken a decision for now about the bracket itself. At least, I should replace the Tamiya screw (I can't stand all these wrong Philips screw heads). Now the best would be to cut the bracket (missing on the real bike) and try to represent the wide screw head that we may see on the close-ups of my previous post. I wonder where I could find such particular screw heads at scale, if someone has a suggestion, I am interested! Cheers, O
  9. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, All the Tamiya cables are now in place (the cables a and c that seemed to me too thick - nearly 1 mm - were replaced by 0,5 mm ones). As I am waiting for the 0,3 mm cables, in the meantime, I focus on an area not really well represented neither by Tamiya nor by Top Studio: Cheers, O P.S: the more I think about it, the more I think the best option, regarding the cowls question, would be to build a 2nd bike (the Marc Marquez one this time…) with cowls in place. This 2nd bike would be a bit more simply built - no comment, Jochen!! - and both bikes would be exposed next to each other. Tell me what you think about this idea. Of course, this would mean to leave the Ford mustang apart for a long time...
  10. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, In a previous post (last Saturday), I showed the wiring suggested by Top Studio, and also the A set of 3 connectors. Patiently, I had to lead every cable to its destination, first on the left handle. This set being floating, I attached it temporary with a portion of Micropore to ease the delicate job: N.B: maybe I should have done the connection of B before the one of A, to ease a bit the challenging piping work... Cheers, O
  11. Totally Mad Olivier
    I won't keep the suspense any longer. Here is the way I could get this result: the idea was to use the Tamiya LC Putty, that I personally use with a big syringe with a 0,9 mm nozzle (like the Flex-I-File bottle, the syringe is kept away from light with insulation tape) for a precise application. The 1 mm OD clear hose is cut at the right lenght, about 10 mm, and, instead of paint, I insert the tip of my LCP syringe into the hose: When the result comes little by little, like here, the satisfaction is even greater... Cheers, O P.S: I take advantage of this post to say that the Marco Model jig is imho essential, especially if you intend to use the Top Studio Super Detail-Up set. The build is indeed ever very challenging with the jig, I can't imagine what it would be without...
  12. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks a lot Poul for this suggestion and for the kind words. I am not used to work with inks, do you have a precise suggestion (brand?reference?) knowing that the color should be this kind of Yellowish Light Grey? Neither do I!!! With the Top Studio Super Detail-Up set, you can represent very faithfully this machinery. And using screen captures, it is possible to bring even a little extra like here, with these « clear » hoses. Edit a bit later: you won’t need to give me any precision about the ink, Poul. I found a way to get a very convincing hose. More soon…
  13. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A very little update while I'm struggling with all the cable and hoses provided as well by Tamiya as by Top Studio (and as I am waiting for the 0,3 mm cables brought on Aliexpress...): Even if the result may be considered as acceptable (no comment, Jochen!), I will try another option, with enamel paint. Maybe a water based paint (Vallejo) was not the best choice, generating retraction during the setting... If someone has a suggestion to improve my hoses by avoiding this "lack" effect of the paint in the hose, I'm interested... N.B: if we may regret that Tamiya doesn’t show colorized cables in the instruction sheet to avoid errors in the piping, we may even more regret that TS doesn’t precise the lenght (a precision that Tamiya brings) of the many cables, especially since imho, they don't provide enough 0,3 mm cable: Tip: If unhappily (this happened to me several times), the cable is detached from the connector after the CA bonding, don't try to glue it again without drilling again first the connector. It is essential that the cable may fit a bit in the connector. Cheers, O
  14. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks Jochen for this interesting comment, bringing with the Maslow pyramid a convincing explanation on what leads us to be so demanding and to share with other modelers, in threads like this one. As I am not yet at the top of the pyramid, I will go on sharing with you all my build 😉: N.B: I removed the front fender to ease the wiring job and the screw head modification Cheers, O
  15. Totally Mad Olivier
    Which reason leads modelers like me (I'm far from being the only one) to be so demanding? Good question, definitely... As you can imagine, I don't have the answer myself. Your friend, who seems to know me better than I do, does he have an idea? Maybe the need to leave a trace, as nothing comes out of our bellies, unlike women. The latter are, moreover (pity), poorly represented in the modelers community...
  16. Totally Mad Olivier
    OK, I will, but I am not sure I will do that. My initial idea was to represent the bike with her nice cowls. Difficult choice...
  17. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I said above that better is enemy of the good. I didn't think I said it so well... I decided to remove and assemble again better my right handle, despite Jochen funny warning (thanks for the pics!). But I had quite a lot of troubles, breaking then losing an intermediate part of this handle. I began to wonder if I should not order another TS set (the TD23175, less expensive and more simple but including though the handlebars). I had the idea to see if the Tamiya part could be used. Happily, it could... I had to cut with a fine diamond disc this intermediate element and graft it on my TS handle. But I had another trouble: the TS part S5, on the left handle, ever assembled, had vanished! I had to scratchbuild this part, helped by great close-ups: N.B: the scratchbuilt little part replacing S5 was glued with epoxy cement. Cheers, TMO
  18. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I assembled the right handle. But I noticed a slight difference of inclination between both sides, the left handle being more tilted. I decided to refer to a blueprint to determine which side was more right: Source: the Blueprints Watching this blueprint, I feel it is the right side (left side on a frontal view) that should be more tilted, while the left one would be correct. Let's try to confirm that: This pic of my bike shows that there is indeed a problem. The close-up below will enhance that: Conclusions: - imho, it is confirmed that my right handle should be a bit more tilted. Well, the difference is not huge (sometimes, the best is enemy of the good) and probably not many people would notice it). But you know me… - the yellowish box - and probably the set of TS parts F13 (resin) and E1 (PE) - is wrongly tilted. If I put the upper cowl, the latter error has no consequence, but if I decide to show the beast free of upper cowl (exposed apart), I have to fix that too... - the lenght of the left handle seems to me a bit longer than the left one, on my bike. I will try to improve that on the same occasion. Cheers, O
  19. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, The corrections are going on, not yet over: The corrections had damaged not only assemblies but also some paints... Cheers, O
  20. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I began the corrections: I had first to remove as gently as possible the cap B3 glued with Uhu Max Repair Power, unscrew and remove the long Black screw, remove the whole handlebars and separate the parts B15 and B16 from B17 (happily, I had not put too much Tamiya Liquid cement). I used the 2nd kit parts B15 and B16 and, after applying a coat of TS-83 on the latter, assembled them on B17: The biggest challenges regarding these corrections are probably yet to come... Cheers, O P.S: gamblor916, I have not taken a decision about the cowls (assembled on the bike or not) but I love the pic you posted above. If you have another one of the same kind, I am very interested...
  21. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks Steve for this suggestion. I was far from my bench yesterday and I will be too today, so I didn’t begin the corrections. But the 3D printer should not be necessary, since I have the 2nd kit, in particular to replace if necessary B15 and B16. Cheers, O
  22. Totally Mad Olivier
    Not sure I understood this suggestion, gamblor916. Did you mean not assemble the cowls on the bike but show them separately? If so, I admit this idea has crossed my mind. The level of detail thanks to the detail sets and other improvements is so that it's a bit of shame to hide all that with the cowls. In fact, a diorama would be possible, showing the bench where the beast is being prepared by mechanics. And some cowls could so be exposed out of the bike... But this would lead me much further, and I look forward to go back to my Mustang build...
  23. Totally Mad Olivier
    You are absolutely right, Dave, and I will have to bring the deep necessary correction. The problem mentioned above can't be enough to explain such a difference on top view, and most likely, I made a mistake assembling the Tamiya B15 and B16 parts, switching them: N.B: I'm afraid B15 and B16 were glued on B17 with liquid polystyren cement, what would turn much more difficult the corrections. Cheers, O
  24. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A bigger update tonight (but also hassles some of which being still to be settled): Cheers, O
  25. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A new little update below. Thanks for watching! Top Studio, as often, pity, doesn't give color indication. For the little PE part E5, I could have an idea thanks to one of my docs: It appears so that this part, in which 3 wires are running, is to paint Dark Grey. I used the Vallejo 994: Cheers, O
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