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Totally Mad Olivier

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Everything posted by Totally Mad Olivier

  1. Totally Mad Olivier
    Dear southpier, your definition of OOB is correct imho: OOB means indeed neither scratch, neither aftermarket parts used for a build. And that is what I am doing for this 2nd build. Except that in this case, I would call it is "strictly OOB", meaning so that I followed strictly (except little initiatives to improve a bit the model) the instructions (painting indications in particular) to show what you get exactly if you follow Italeri to the letter. I would never have built this kit like that first, the first thing I do before beginning a build is to get all documents possible. In this case, the documents showing for example that the radiator grille was not black, I would not have painted it so, and so for the rods too thick and too few. This single example may be applied to a lot of things in this build. The only interest of this "strict OOB" is to show the huge difference between such a build and the one I made helped greatly by all the members of this thread in all aspects. If you intend to build this kit, the thread should be very useful for you (go and see too the 806 Gangshow and Harvey's thread, begun more recently). I don't know yet if I will write something to summarize the huge amount of debates and infos that are in the 179 pages (and not over) of this thread. I didn't get any reply to my mail to the editor in chief of T2M, and anyway, the 7 or 8 pages of an article would be definitely not enough. It would have been a compromise, a "digest" not very helpful (too many aspects to consider in a so little size). If I was sure the subject interests a lot of people, I could be tempted by self editing a little book, in which would be raised the historical context, the documents we got (problems of copyright), the techniques used with the computer to compare and improve the build, and many hints about materials and techniques. Usually, the model making books show a lot of models, I would like to do the contrary, show techniques through the build of this single one, even if most of them can be applied to other ones. And in this context, showing the difference between OOB like I do now would be very interesting and enlightening. More, I am not sure I have enough skills to pretend being legitimate for such a book. So? I still don't know for now. I hope anyway I have replied to your questions...
  2. Totally Mad Olivier
    Maybe some of you noticed a white halo around the white labels on the tyres on the photos above. Even if the build is OOB and completely wrong, I could not leave these unsightly marks. I have used the Vallejo 950 and done the correction with a fine paintbrush. Before: After: Vallejo paints are great, and it is possible to apply them even on a soft material, like these tyres. Usually, paints can't dry on such soft kind of rubbers, no problem with acrylic Vallejo.
  3. Totally Mad Olivier
    Here is what is still in the box:
  4. Totally Mad Olivier
    Steps 27 and 28 over. The radiator case is very narrow, I don't like that shape at all. And the front and rear axle are too short too, without speaking of the not cambered front wheels. Combined with the long tail, the big tyres, the thick spokes, all that is so wrong, so wrong... I look forward this OOB to be over, the comparison photos will be very enlightening! Dry fit assembly of the body: of course, I will leave the "louvres" as they are... and with the engine (dry fit too): my OOB should be over in a few days, less than 1 week definitely. I began this OOB 15 days ago, to compare with the nearly 13 months I needed to get a convincing model. Of course, if I had to do it again, I would spend much less time, as the pioneer work is done. I spent a lot of time on the thread and photos too... I suppose it would not take me not more than 6 months. But of course I won't do a 3rd build. I would still dream of writing a book about this construction. But more probably I will do a You Tube presentation. One more word: I will represent the left bonnet opened, exactly as I did before, so that the comparison will be more telling. The main difference will be the driver missing on this one.
  5. Totally Mad Olivier
    Steps 24, 25, 26 over. The exclamation points ! show bended arms (despite corrections) and the absurd idea to provide the thick spring (1,43 mm diameter!) to represent the brake cables. As Robin Lous suggested, I used the 0,38 mm braided wire, that is a very good choice. P.S: CrazyCrank!
  6. Totally Mad Olivier
    Step 23 over. I had to cut the front rod, remove 2 mm and glue it because it was bended by the tension (still bending a bit). I put a shim while the polystyrene cement dries:
  7. Totally Mad Olivier
    Step 22 over.
  8. Totally Mad Olivier
    Dear Sam, first of all, I want to say I don't feel frustrated at all, and I am the first to say bravo to Italeri for the great idea to offer us the opportunity to make such a model. I would give a 19,5/20 for that (not to give 20) But as Beaumarchais said: "sans la liberté de blâmer, il n'est pas d'éloge flatteur". And that is why I will not change my mind about the tyres, the instructions, the Photoshop on the box-art and the "model unique in terms of technology and accuracy" etc. My criticisms are constructive. If no one says to Italeri all that is not acceptable from such a famous brand, it is not a favor that we do to them... On the other hand, I am less severe about the spokes and the thick rods of the grille, because I admit it was nearly impossible to provide 0,4 mm plastic rods, they would be too fragile. To answer your question, I used Aber 0,4 mm steel rods, that are not soft at all, you can go on p. 29 of the Gangshow for more details. I ordered them from Oupsmodel. If you need anything, just ask me. P.S: I would be very pleased too if Italeri or another brand could offer us an Alfa, or another Fiat, or a Delage, a Bugatti, a Mercedes, if possible... with new moulds! Pity, the vintage race cars are still the poor parents of static model making, particularly in big scales.
  9. Totally Mad Olivier
    As you know, on the main photo of the box-art, a "nice" Photoshop job has been done, doubling the number of rods (on the sides of the box, no Photoshop). Notice that, as for the tyres (no Pirelli decals), the model showed does not follow the instructions (rods to paint mat black).... All that does not reveal a big consideration from Italeri regarding its customers...
  10. Totally Mad Olivier
    The radiator grille according to Italeri: one more time, I followed strictly the instructions, preparing the part (some flash to remove), applying white alu Alclad after scraping the mould marks especially on the (many) mounting points to the clusters, and then applying (sic!) the mat black (Vallejo 950). The least we can say is that, here too, the differences with my final grille will be huge: shape, proportions, thickness of the rods and color, all is different... Comparison:
  11. Totally Mad Olivier
    Step 21 over. Here too, I followed strictly the instructions, so only the parts for which painting instructions where given were painted. Notice the "crescent" shape steering lever, one of the wrongest elements on this step:
  12. Totally Mad Olivier
    Indeed Thierry, your thread is really amazingly impressive. Congratulations for your son too... Could you show us your whole Bugatti, even if it is not over. An overall picture would be welcome. Can you recall me the name of the prestigious site you talked about me, on which your model is showed too, please?
  13. Totally Mad Olivier
    The XF 16 mat alu Tamiya dries fast. Less than 1 hour after the alu primer coat, I could apply the red X7 acrylic from the same brand: N.B: the X7 seems to give a slightly different red in this acrylic version, a bit more pink, compared with the same X7 in the enamel version... I preferred the other one, more bloody red.
  14. Totally Mad Olivier
    I have interrupted my "build" (step 21) for a painting step. After preparation of the parts concerned (body, fairing (ever glued), bonnets, radiator case and seat fairing), they have got a coat of XF16 acrylic Tamiya (alu mat), used as a primer, as I did for my build (but with enamel paint). As for the wheels, it is funny for me to go so fast knowing the time I have spent on the modif brought to the body (many surgeries, louvres etc...), the bonnets (opening louvres), and the fairings (shape)... P.S: Thanks Harvey! I'll keep you informed about that. Furthermore, without news from the Veteran Car Club Bordino, I have sent them another mail, asking them to make photos with a cellular and send me them. This will take them not more than 10 minutes, but could be very useful for us... Hope they will do it. Here too, I keep you informed...
  15. Totally Mad Olivier
    There is a competition of models at Hyères in the context of Maquett'expo, next 14 and 15/10. I could maybe take part with my 806, especially as the topic is "mechanical sports". If I do, I will go only on Sunday afternoon, no question for me to leave my model without me present. It would be the first time I take part to such a competition, and I worry a bit about my model. I admit that I worry a bit too of my self esteem (more than for the awards) in case I don't win! Thierry, furthermore, can you recall me the name of the reknowned site on which you present your build please? Indeed, I have no news from the editor in chief of T2M after my last mail (about 10 days ago) and I think more and more I won't write the article for T2M.
  16. Totally Mad Olivier
    Step 20 over. If I did not take care to the joint between 132 and 133D because it won't be visible, I made a careful and necessary contouring of the decal 3. A satin varnish has been applied on the digits, that were too bright. The shape of these digits, very narrow and stretched in height, is of course completely wrong. I added an enlargement of our photo 21 for comparison... no comment!
  17. Totally Mad Olivier
    Step 19 over. It is probably one of the steps with the biggest difference in term of time spent for me. Respoking required a lot of patience. I recommend to go and see the pages concerned in the thread "806 Gangshow" on p. 29. I recall there are 72 spokes and not 36 as below, and they should be of course much more thin (I recommend 0,4 mm rods). The wheels of the OOB will be very different also because of the tyres, with different sizes (incredible that Italeri provides the Mef's ones instead of the 806 Protar's ones) and these bright decals (I will try to apply with care a mat varnish on them after full drying). Notice that these decals are missing on the box-art build...
  18. Totally Mad Olivier
    Steps 17 and 18 over. I repeat myself, but these steps required too a lot of attention and experience, especially the step 17. Screwing the 03 screws in the nuts 04 through 24B and the shock absorbers (step 17), for example, is far from being easy. N.B: I did not expect going so fast with my OOB. I began it the 15/09, just 9 days ago, and I am at step 19! Finally, Roy, you were probably right, it should be done in not more than 1 month (maybe even a bit less...).
  19. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks southpier. Even if I don't bring the same care to this OOB, I can't help doing the job correctly. And this way, we will really see what an academic OOB, following stricly the instructions and using the parts provided, results.
  20. Totally Mad Olivier
    Of course, nearly everything is wrong imho in this step 16 too, in particular the angle of the steering column (see our drawing 2 and my post of last 16/12/16 p. 36 of the thread). I wish you good moments to screw the 02 screws into the nuts 04 (with washers!) through 121 and 124D. Even OOB, this kit is definitely not for beginners (the best way to discourage the best wills).
  21. Totally Mad Olivier
    Phew! my step 15 is over, but still problems to overcome. This time, it was the frame 1CF too small to come into 54E (the drawing is unclear, furthermore). Well, I did my best... The knob is really monstrous! A little comparison with our photo 3 VHR gives an idea how this steering wheel is wrong: N.B: the part 65E will be added at the step 29. P.S: I have changed my mind regarding the protection screen, thanks to the VHR version of this photo 3. In my opinion, it is not a metal grille like we use for fries, it is a very thin lightly opaque material. Look how it was necessary, on this VHR version, we can see many projections on it, particularly left... I suggest the reader to go too on the thread "806 Gangshow" on p. 32...
  22. Totally Mad Olivier
    If you decide to build the kit OOB (what we can't definitely recommend... ), you will need a tool to screw the nut 02 at the bottom of 27B. I made this tool from a 4 mm Evergreen tube. As the hole inside the plastic tube was a bit too small, I enlarged it with a triangular blade by scraping. I made an exception on this 27B part, painting it polished alu while there was no color indication in the instructions. More soon...
  23. Totally Mad Olivier
    No comment...
  24. Totally Mad Olivier
    3 other comments about this step 14: 1) We may wonder why hard parts, like the magnetos (1K, 2K) and the parts 4, 5, 6 and 7K are made of soft plastic. I had resolved the problem on my personal build to paint them by applying a thin coat of liquid cyano, to get a hard surface, condition to apply a paint. Here, in the lack of any color reference, things are more simple... 2) the screws 02 in the step 6 are much too short to screw on them the nuts 02 (more, with washers!). I have glued the nuts where they are supposed to be... 3) Precisely, the 3rd comment is about these huge nuts 02, 4 mm (4 x 12 = 36 mm!). On my previous build, I had replaced them by smaller ones... That said, my step 14 is now over.
  25. Totally Mad Olivier
    I made a compromise, removing the largest part of the flash, but not spending more than 3/4 hour on that job, to give an idea of what is provided in the box...
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