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4bogreen

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About 4bogreen

  • Birthday 08/01/1980

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    Netherland

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  1. I assambled the aircraft. No weird hickups occured. I also rebuild the seat. The bucket was actally to big. The seatbelts deliverd in the Armory set are wrong. So i made my own seatbelts. Regards, Remco
  2. ...painting the cockpit. i use Akan A-14 grey for the cockpit. The blue pipese are for oxygen, black pneumatics, brown oil (oilcooler), yellow fuel and red for the fire extinguisher. A oil pipe is covered in the cockpit with asbestos tape. This was a socalled hotpipe. Enjoy! Regards Remco
  3. Hi Nightwolf, I used the PE from Armory. The basic set is good, but i think i would give tbe Eduard flaps a try. These are better build. If they fit, i don't know....
  4. Hi Nachtwulf! Glad that you tuned in! Are you also busy with a Yak-1b? I mad a mistake, by not sanding the ailerons and rudder eges thin. So I got creative and bought a resin set for a Yak-7 for the ICM kit. The alerions are good, but the elevator section is to small. This was one of the new improvements over the Yak-1 design to the Yak-7 type. So i have to enlarge the elevator section. A very complicated improvement, but the results are good! Regards, remco
  5. The kit has great potential ,but detail varies. The panel lines are very subtle, but the cockpit detail is rough. The Armory standard PE set is very good. Cockpit detail, radiators and landing gear doors are present. The flaps are nice, but maybe the Eduard flaps are easier to assemble and might fit the Modelsvit kit. Detail in the cockpit is oké, if you close it up. But there are some area's that need attention. - The kit instrument panel is a Yak-1 layout. The Armory panel correct this. - Two types of control sticks are pressend. The ring type is used more than the stick type. Both are possible, but the to be safe, i use the ring type. - If you decide to open the cockpit maintenance doors, the doors are to thick. You can sand them down on the inside and rework the ribs with Evergreen rods. - No radio is supplied behind the pilot seat. Early Soviet aircraft lacked radio, but the Yak-1b types had radio's on board. The RSI-3M1 radio was pressend on Yak-1b types. - When the maintenance panels are up, there is a frame visible. This holds these panels in to place. Unfortunately this frame is absent in the kit. Evergreen strips can recreate this frame work. - The landing lights are from the Yak-1 type. Most or all Yak-1b types used the smaller lights. Also the PVO (Air defence) light in the wing was not there in front line units. These were only mounted in aircraft for in sevice with the PVO. Photo time! Regards, remco
  6. Hi there, I wanted to share my 1/48 Yak-1b build. Its the Modelsvit kit (not the flawed Accurate Miniatures/ Eduard kit). A PE set of Armory i bought for more accuracy on this kit. I want to leave the maintenance panels on the side of the cockpit open. I decided to build the Yak of Roland de la Poype. Its a very recognizable plane with one the most famous shark mouths on it. I hope you like it! Regards, Remco
  7. Hi Bobo, It looks very good! I should not paint the tail cover plate aluminium. why? because of the extreme white "flash". if it was aluminium, it had a greyish glow over it. All spare parts were dilvered in AII green or later AMT-4 green. Bare aluminium usage by the VVS was a myth, just like the unpainted tanks from the Stalingrad factories. The undersurface is a very difficult color. i have the Akan colors and i tried to find a subsitude for this color, but its no were near anything i have. Although a nice try. The A-14 grey in the wheelbay and landing gear should be darker (?, yes darker). A-14 is a middle grey color (a almost perfect match with Vallejo air US grey) thats faded a bit brighter to greyish blue. Enough with the stick, carrot time! This is a difficult kit. short run, details looks a bit rough and a horrible breakdown in parts with big moulding ports were the plastic is atatched to the sprue. I rate this kit as a VVS enthousiast must have. It matches scale plans perfect with a couple of odds, but its correctable (thats important!). you did a very good job on constuction and nailed the dreaded seam in the middle! exelent! My advice is to sell the Accurate Miniatures Yaks that are to flawed in my opinion. The time and effort to correct its mistakes is a waste of time if you learn to know the Modelsvit Yaks. Also it will look weird if you put the Accurate Miniatures Yak next to the Modelsvit Yak. I got the same problem of the Lavochkin series i want to build. The ICM LaGG-3 looks odd next to a Zvezda La-5. Now i am backdating a Zvezda La-5 into a LaGG-3. A hiddeous job..... All in all a good model and i hope to see a next VVS model from your hands. HTH, Remco
  8. Hi Bobo, The way you created the fuselage numbers, is exelent! i want to build this aircraft to. i don't have the decals, but Foxbot made a sheet. but i don't want to pay 17,-€ for one set of digits. The colors are odd to me. AMT-4 and AMT-6 are difficult colors. Especially compared with the Akan brand. AMT-4 is a mid color green, very close to 4bo green. I have tried to made a comparrison with several colors, and no one matches. Your green looks to brown (olive drab brown glow), and the black green looks to "shiny green glow". it was better to paint it just black and sprayed it very thin, so you could see the base color green, just like they did in real live. You still have to put the winter camouflage on it, so will see how it goes. Never the less, great job! Regards, Remco
  9. Hi Bobo, The seam on the engine deck is the worst. I advise you to line it up as good as possible, then put some tape in line both sides of the seam. Then fill the seam with putty and sand it carefully. Sand the control surfaces very thin. These are to thick. HTH, Remco
  10. Indeed very intresting news Bob! Glad to hear Vallejo makes a dedicated VVS painting set. Akan is regarded as the closest to the VVS colors, due the exclusive use of original chips of paints in the Moskow military archives. I will be watching the paintset.... Remco
  11. hi Bob, I had a look and came to the following, All in Vallejo air AMT-11 = 71052 (base color) AMT-12 = 71054 (camouflage patch) AMT-7 = 71109 (underside/belly) A-14 = 71047 (cockpit color) These colors are closest to the Akan AMT paints. HTH, Remco
  12. Hi Bob, I have tried this a long time ago. The Akan colors are unique and its almost impossible to have a "perfect" match. I will look it up witch colors are closest to the Akan variants... HTH, Remco
  13. Hi Bobo! Very nice Yak! The 23 is a challange. I am a bit familiar with the Modelsvit kits. Currently i am building the Modelsvit Yak1b. The cockpit is made for the early Yaks, so you are good on that one. Be careful with the bucketseat. Its a bit to wilde (this can be a problem i created myself due my AMS on my Yak, but i think its to big anyway). I replaced mine with a spare seat of the Eduard Yak-3 (only the lower part!) The camouflage is a standaard patern of AMT 4 green (whole plane) and AMT 2 black (patches with some shine throu). Belly should be AII light blue (early soviet WWII color, before 1941). There were no bare metal parts. These parts are painted with MK-7 white. The bare metal parts are a myth, but thats another story. Cockpit should be painted in aluminium color (this was choosen of because it had the best UV protecion) or A-14 steel grey (not a metallic paint, just a grey color) and the instrument panel semi gloss black. HTH, Remco
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