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armored76

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Everything posted by armored76

  1. Really nice, especially considering its small scale.
  2. They are fantastic details and - more importantly - fit wise. I assembled the chassis and interior as one part and the "carapace" as another. They slide into each other with as good as no misalignment and no gaps. All that in this tiny scale compared to 1/35 armors. Incredible engineering!
  3. That looks great so far, Ed! The added cables must have been quite some work. As I'm currently building one of these myself (since July!) I can tell you the fiddly work won't stop with the engine 😆 Almost every section requires the same amount of dedication. Not even sure which step to highlight but attaching the mud guards are a show of their own.
  4. Hey, The Revell website lists the Revell colours: https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/submarines/german-submarine-type-xxi.html?listtype=search&searchparam=xxi You can use colour converter websites from here if needed. The two grey tones seem to be 57 Grey and 78 Tank Grey. Very descriptive names
  5. Really nice results so far! Great presentation of the electronics, too. In case you find yourself limited by memory, there are other options that are both smaller, faster and feature more memory (both flash and RAM), at similar costs while still being compatible with the deelopment tools you are already using. I was looking into the Seeduino here but am still lacking a real use case: https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeeduino-XIAO-Arduino-Microcontroller-SAMD21-Cortex-M0+-p-4426.html?queryID=bcc83a9cc7b93b3de139a434064d1935&objectID=4426&indexName=bazaar_retailer_products The idea of using the NEOpixel LEDs is really-realy nice despite the limitation brought in by their size for certain use cases. As an alternative, there are extension boards that can be used with regular LEDs like this for instace: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10616
  6. Fantastic job! Even more so as this is your first armored build.
  7. Saw 3D Wild's announcement of IJN Oyodo yesterday: https://3d-wild.com/collections/warship-model-kits/products/1-350-ijn-oyodo-light-cruiser-model-kit Anyone tried 3D printed kits in 1/350? I expect the fit not to be as good as plastic by far and most details are probably mold-on which won't make cleaning and detailing any easier? Is warping an issue with printing resin?
  8. That would be a real shame I just discovered this brand myself and was very pleased with the way the Taiho kit was looking. Let's hope some other company will pick up on their kits and designs if Very Fire is due to go.
  9. This is certainly something different and you did a great job on all your builds. Hard to decide which one I like the most Probably the green and red ones.
  10. For the more experienced builders among us, does the amount of PE seem fair? Would there be a lot more missing for a decent model? I can see the crane might benefit of more filigree parts but there doesn't seem to be a lot of antennae the would need more details. Am I missing something?
  11. I can totally understand not wanting to mix and steer too much on a build of this size and extent But I can still not stop thinking about the work this guy put in documenting all those details...
  12. I know Facebook is not everybody's favourite place but there is specilized group for this kit over there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/698412331462044/?notif_id=1658491350537754&notif_t=group_r2j_approved&ref=notif There is a guy from Pontos regularly posting updates on an upcoming upgrade set and another chap that posted an almost 100 page document listing innacuracies. Hope this helps!
  13. I'm not a ship builder but that beautiful boxart makes this really tempting. I'll sure be following your progress on this one.
  14. Fantastic build! Even if the weathering may seem a bit over the top, it looks SOOOO good. Is there a WIP thread on this by any chance? Thanks for sharing!
  15. The results so far are impressive even more so knowing it's one of first attempts! Just like the others, I tend to fail when applying the top coats and for this reason I usually end up applying Mike's post-noodling technique on top of the preshading. As for the colors, you may indeed try a few shades of brown starting with a mid-tone (think rust) towards an oily dark brown but also blue tones. Hope that helps!
  16. Can you please spend a few more words on this? I was surprised no one mentioned this before. I bought a bottle of 1000 myself several years ago, tried it a few times and the shrinkage made me box it and forget about it. I applied it pretty thick as you would with other fillers in the hope of being able to sand away the excess after curing. However, the seams "magically" reappeared after curing.
  17. Hi, Reading your entries, I understood, you have problems with getting yours to spray properly? Is that right? I tend to thin mine about 50-50 and I recently switched back to the Vallejo range and love the rubbery finish. Other than that H&S airbrushes are known to misbehave with acrylic paints and primers but I got mine to work decently with a 0.4 nozzle. Haven't tried larger ones but it might further improve the results. The smaller 0.2 nozzle was working but required a lot of patience. I steered away from non-acrylic paints and primer in general due to their smell, mainly. Before that, the MRP primer (the very light grey, almost white one), straight out of the bottle was like magic potion. Hope this helps!
  18. Before time runs out... Wishing for some helicopters Ka-50, Ka-52 and the like are seriously unloved by model companies...
  19. Did anyone built this kit already? I wonder how good the fit and details are.
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