Digger1895

Good way to look at it, cheers Pigsty

Sorry for the dumb question but I've only done a handful of models, all Tamiya, and this is my first time with PE. I'm building the Meng T-72B3 and it has PE grills. Now my common sense is telling me that they should go on 'shiny' side up, that is the side of the fret with writing on. I've glued the main ones on so its too late now anyway but I just want to make sure this is correct. The other side is flatter but the grill holes seem a little more defined and has cast a shadow of doubt in my mind. thanks guys.

Thanks guys, I'm buying it from an online hobby shop I use so hopefully no dramas!

Please excuse the dummy question on shrink tube, but is it to fit size (as in 2mm) before shrinkage? Or, say 2mm, after shrinkage? thanks much!

i was only saying that as you'd "quoted" me in your post, no other reason mate.

Yep, you mentioned it earlier, I see no need for it for myself.

I've not found much difference between cheap and expensive CA in terms of stickability, The main difference I've found is in viscosity, if that's the correct term. Some cheap versions advertised as 'thick' etc are just not not. This can lead to it not performing as you'd expect it to.

I tried a couple of Chinese cheapos, a Neo and never got on with any of them. Began to think airbrushing was not worth the effort, or that I was rubbish. Then I bought The Badger 105 Patriot, and the optional cheap as chips .3 needle set, and fell in love. It was so easy to use, even for me, and layed paint down really well. Now I'm looking at The Krome and was wondering if it's any good, the price is still I relatively inexpensive compared to H&S and Iwata. I'm also wondering how good it is at really thin lines, and if anyone owns or has used both the Krome and The Patriot do I need another AB or would my money be better spent elsewhere. Thanks for looking

I've also found the UMP/Badger primer the best I've used. It looks thick but goes on great and seems to be self levelling. It also doesn't peel like Vallejo does if scratched.

I successfully use AK paints thinned with with their own thinner, Ultimate Modelling Products thinner and even Mr Color Self Levelling thinner, all with no problems. However your problem seems to be in cleaning the airbrush. is it right that you're saying you're using thinners to clean your airbrush? Thinners are not normally strong enough to clean with which is why there are dedicated cleaning products. To clean my AB after using AK paints I first flush through with water (the paints are water based and this saves money on cleaner), the I use a cleaner (I use Ultimate, Lifeclor or Vallejo AB cleaners). I then flush with water again. Lastly I shoot through a tiny drop of pure IPA this being alcohol evaporates quickly. This is all very quick and I've never had any problems with it.

One word a "mess".

What exactly is it, and, will a 'good' coat over the top remedy it? If not what else can I do? Thanks

Thanks for that, and yes I was thinking of the ones with the spongey core rather than the thin wood/card.

I read somewhere that UMP sanders are 'washable'. What do you wash them in, do you just rinse them or use some kind of soap? Can you wash other makes of sanding sticks?

Have you thought of Ammo? Hehe