brooker

Schiffsmodel backnumber e.magazines can be downloaded from here: Schiffsmodel http://www.farposst.ru/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22554 Brooker

You can question Google for Military History books and lots of other stuff and download eBooks free, where you find them, if you are so inclined and spend your £ elsewhere, perhaps on things of more importance. Brooker

Saw an advert in one of your English e.newspapers, that you can travel both ways across the channel for £1, presumably on a ferry - with that sort of cost factor in mind, trips to France to buy Duty Free fags and alcohol and modellers magazines, must be a weekend incentive - if not having a look at the illegal emigrants wanting to come and live next door? Brooker

Hi Tom, I forgot to mention I always cut off the tabs and edge glue - just like you seem to be doing and I use PVA white glue, enough glue on each surface as you would find on the back of a postage stamp - you can always glue one side and allow it to dry, before glueing the sides which bond to it and attaching them wet. Here in Aussie, with the range of temperatures we live with - I have to increase the strength of the overall structure, by cutting to fit and glueing 1/8" thick card internally, neatly cut to fit and glued over the total surface, so that my models are much more robust and don't bend or twist like a banana - also over bigger models, thin card is not smooth, but get dimples between frames and I really think that spoils the final look I wish to achieve. As you have probably noticed, you can't sand card, because it fluffs up, so accuracy in all parts and fitting is the key to a successful model and I always start with the bigger parts and then make and glue lesser parts to them - I build small parts solid internally, as over time they retain their shape. Roy, I bought a Pocher Rolls Royce chassis built and finely detailed, from a fellow in Germany via e.Bay, the idea being that I could use it to kick start my Pocher RR chassis builds and to follow his assembly in completing my sadly incomplete models thus far - his chassis is absolutely splendid and he must have a steady hand and good eyesight, to paint all of the nuts and bolts a brass colour, highly detailing the chassis - it is such a shame that it will be covered up by the body, when eventually I build a car body over the top of it - I was thinking of having the body and wings lift off, but I don't really think that is practical. I will take some pix and post them here - eventually - rather busy at the moment. As a Pocher RR builder, any ideas on that? Brooker

Love your Fiat's - when motivation strikes, I have both car kits to build - at this rate - I'll be well and truly past it, in the true sense of the meaning. lol Brooker

Me too - I've got both of Italieri's release of the red racing Fiat's and the Bentley Blower at 1/12 scale, to do sometime !! Brooker

That looks like the pair my partner bought online, except she uses the light as well, because we watch TV together and the light from overhead is distracting to me - also she finds the light in her pair helps her with the close up work she is doing - bought hers through eBay, did not cost very much - lost the first pair she bought - around our home somewhere - probably put them down somewhere safe where she could find them easily again and then forgot where that was. Brooker

Hi All, I have previously, not been able to work out, what possible use I could put a 3D printer to - now it seems I am starting to get a much better idea - so thanks guys, for that !! Truthfully though, I don't have that much space left, because all of my models are "big" and they take up a lot of space, so that now I'm competing with my female partner for all space that remains - as you might have noticed, she has rightly, claimed the kitchen areas for herself !! Brooker

If you contact the blind association near you, they have a pair of reading glasses for blind people with a set of lenses connected to another pair which you wind out, either the left side or the right side to get your reading focal length right, for watching TV, but they would work just as well for close up work on a model. Alternatively, you could look on eBay and see what glasses they have available there, my partner uses a pair she bought from eBay for embroidery and lace making, which work just the same way and were much cheaper. Brooker

Hi Christian, Your model looks magnificent and surprisingly enough, I have room in one of my wood and glass display cabinets for it - it would fit in with the 1/8 and 1/12 cars I have there - and it seems to be a shame to leave it where you have it now !! I'm lost with the term "3d printed", would you expand on that please, I'm afraid I don't have any idea what you mean, also did you construct it using another kit for the inside and chassis and 3d print the body, or what? Brooker

Hi TristanR, Yes thanks for taking the time and excusing my rudeness in questioning what you were doing, I have the same kit here and I wanted some idea of how to go about building it, as I've lost the skills and time taken to build in card anymore - well ships that is - so I thought I'd build in plastic instead, because at least the parts are preformed and how hard can following a jigsaw puzzle of parts be in plastic - much harder than I thought, obviously !! I'm 70 give or take a few months and as I've never built anything, except one try, where I left a 1/200 IJN Yamato model to close to a gas fire and that side melted like a candle, about 25 years ago - I decided now, that perhaps it was not too late to give plastic a go - I've got a big stash of plastic kits to build, but so far I lack the motivation - hopefully, sometime soon - I will begin. Your wood deck is smashing, given that you are able to use a computerized laser cutter at work - half your luck and then some, I'd say, however, you probably realize that the gratings were the same colour as the rest of the model, which is a bit sad given the looks you have achieved, to remain authentic. Needless to say, your sub model looks terrific and not the work of a beginner - pull the other leg mate (smile) Brooker

Hi, I've got the same Revell kit to build and I bought a photo etched kit to go with the model, so your pix are going to be a great help in my understanding how to do that. Please excuse my stupidity, I obviously don't want to question a person who is obviously a master in the art, but I don't understand aspects of what you are trying to achieve and I would appreciate feedback from you - to explain what I don't understand. Off the cuff - you used balsa or wood to make the partitions with your laser cutter, but it is just as easy to have the patterns printed on a photocopier and PVA glued to card, in 1/8 or 1/4 thickness and cut out by hand using a hobby knife, several cuts, don't force the blade through the card, let the knife do the cutting on a suitable cutting board - it is the procedure I use for my card warship models, pix which I have posted in this forum, under "Brooker". Once the assembly has been constructed and assembled with PVA glue, interlocking the parts, it is easy enough to varnish the card parts, for say, your torpedo tubes construction, to get a really strong card structure, easily as strong as your wood one (bearing in mind that I can't afford a laser cutter like yours and I don't have that sort of motivation or determination). I am also lost on why you are going to so much trouble internally, if your model is going to be a static model and not an R/C model, as all of the internal detail will be inside the plastic structure, once it is all glued together and it won't be seen anyway - excuse me for being stupid, but what am I missing here? Brooker

If you like "big" tank and AFV models, you can buy card kits at 1/25 of most of these vehicles from Poland and Russia via the internet and you can make them even bigger by photocopy enlargement - if you want details of how to make robust models, have a look at my threads "Brooker" on this forum to find hints and tips - certainly, card kits cost next to nothing, against plastic kits of quite small size with huge prices. Check in Google: GPM, Flymodel, Modelik, Maty Modelarz and others. you just need a hobby knife, MAUN Safety Ruler and PVA glue, unless you build in black & white photocopies, when, after strengthening the structure internally with 1/8 PVA glued on card, you can paint them with water based paints to get the effects you want. If you have 1/15 or 1/16 R/C tanks, you can use the lower hull with upper hulls scaled up from 1/24 to 1/15 or 1/16 - just make sure they fit before building commences, in case you have to make small adjustments - and make sure the running gear matches the upper hull you are building, unless that is not a problem for you. Most "experts" probably don't count the running gear wheels to determine if the running gear is consistent with the upper hull you have built, but that is up to you, of course - there are plenty of upper hulls which match the lower hull running gear, which contains motors and R/C etc in the card kits which are available.. Brooker

The Bentley Blower was recently reissued by Airfix in 1/12 scale, I don't know if it was a limited release or not, but I purchased a new kit from the UK (cost me an arm and a leg in postage fees and the exchange rate - roll on Brexit) and I have it to build. Your Bentley Blower is lovely and if I manage to build my kit like yours, I will be very pleased with myself - pleased as punch - as you should be. I get the latest updates from model auctions around the World (through Invaluable) and was kicking myself when 2 Airfix 1/12 Bentley Blower kits came up for auction (soon after I purchased this kit) with a valuation of £40 each, by the auctioneer (no idea what they sold for, but I imagine a damn site less than what I paid from a kit shop, plus 15% Commission, with £50 airmail post and packing on top to Australia) Brooker

What an amazing model and the setting in which your landing craft is put, defies my imagination - with skills like that, I would say you were a maritime "Roy", builder. So what happens to your model once it comes out of your shed, where does it go then? Is your model made entirely from plastic, with the exception of the sand as the base for the water setting? Did you scratch build it from plans? I'm sure there is no kit at that scale - 7' x 4' if my memory serves me well. Brooker