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GazB

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About GazB

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 28/05/90

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    Male
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    UK

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  1. I didn't manage to thin the Vallejo. It was supposedly the Model Air (don't need to thin), though I don't think that was the case. I didn't want to go through the rigmaroll of thinning it in the paint cup every time, so I never thinned it. Gaz
  2. I tried Vallejo when repainting my old M1 in a desert scheme. The colour it was supposed to be in Vallejo's range, aside from being too light, had a tendency to crackle or not cover very well, and for some reason it had a sweet smell for about two weeks until I covered it with Gunze Aqueous, which I love as much as Tamiya now. I did a tiny brush paint test with the new AK stuff, and it went on quite nicely. Very matt finish. Gaz
  3. AK RealColors - NATO

    Received a response from AK. As expected, it appears this set may be geared more toward the likes of German or European NATO camouflage over the U.S. scheme. Gaz
  4. AK RealColors - NATO

    Yeah that's what I was thinking. The colours seem very similar to the Revell NATO colour callouts I used years ago, and they had a much duller/faded appearance to them. Further searching found Vallejo colours that put both the FS and RAL numbers on, saying they're the same, but they're not. But overall, this set looks like a more faded version of the U.S. NATO scheme. I've actually sent an email to AK to ask about which scheme they based their colours off of. The green looks a bit brighter than the Tamiya one in the bottle, but when I did a quick test paint, it appeared to be darker. The colours don't appear to be accurate to the American scheme. Maybe German and others, but from the pics I've seen of U.S. vehicles, it does not appear correct. Thanks for the reply Gaz
  5. AK RealColors - NATO

    Ahoy all, I have a question. I've just purchased the RealColors NATO set and I'm wondering how suitable they are for U.S. vehicles. As we know, Tamiya does the three colours as well, which I normally use. The reason I ask is because in the past I'd heard there was a slight difference between the U.S. version of the tri-colour scheme, and say the German one. Looking at the paint codes on the NATO set, they aren't FS numbers but RAL, and they look a bit duller/darker than the Tamiya equivalent. A Wikipedia search IDs the green as RAL 6031-F9 'Bronze Green', the brown as RAL 8027-F9 'Leather Brown' and the black as RAL 9021-F9 'Tar Black', and mentions these were specifically a Bundeswehr combination. So would these ones still be accurate for U.S. vehicles, which often appear brighter, or more suited for the likes of the Bundeswehr? Cheers, Gaz
  6. AK Resin Texturizer

    Cool, thanks Gaz
  7. Scammell Pioneer SV2S

    Nice! It almost looks like something out of Mad Max, lol Gaz
  8. AK Resin Texturizer

    Yikes Well, I do have some Woodland Scenics Lightweight Hydrocal. I might just gave that a go pouring into one sided moulds Does plaster expand while curing? Ideally I wouldn't want to have to sand off a huge bit on the back of something because it overflowed out of the mould, lol. Thanks for the pointers, Giorgio Gaz
  9. Strengthening Thin Rod

    In the end I've settled on the original frame I made from the evergreen rod, but I've reinforced it with some additional panels. Its still a bit wobbly, but more stable, and will hopefully be fine once the struts are glued into position. Hopefully. I'd hate to find out when they're positioned that one is longer than the rest and its off-kilter. Been scratchbuilding the hell out of this kit lol Thanks again for your recommendations, though Gaz
  10. AK Resin Texturizer

    Hmm I actually contacted AK Interactive and they said their art department couldn't guarantee success because they hadn't designed it for casting. By and large I'd only be copying stuff like packs and things rather than anything structural. I'd use milliput and whatnot, but the failure rate is high for it. I was using blue stuff to make moulds and when I put the putty in, it would often misalign even if I moulding pegs into the blue stuff. Both milliput and green stuff would often fail to reach all the details, and at some point the moulding would slip or be squashed or something. Just never worked properly, unfortunately Its why I think a liquid would be better for it. Thanks for your input, though, Giorgio Gaz
  11. AK Resin Texturizer

    Hmm I wish there was a way to just pour something straight from a bottle with no mixing, no messy prep, nothing else and just straight into a mould. I have some hydrocal but I'd have to mix it all up and try to get the amount correct. Although since is an acrylic resin, surely it would just work neat when poured into something? I can't imagine the pigments activate something that makes it harden. Thanks for the reply, though, Dads Gaz
  12. AK Resin Texturizer

    Hi all. Got a curiosity about this product by AK Interactive. https://ak-interactive.com/product/texturizer-acrylic-resin/ Could this be used to make small parts when poured into a mould? I sent an email to AK but they never responded. I have green stuff, and could get milliput, but trying to work it into all the details of a mould and get it to come out looking well its very hit and miss. Thanks in advance. Gaz
  13. Strengthening Thin Rod

    Thanks, guys. What would you recommend to glue the parts together? They seem too heavy for CA glue to support long enough, and I don't have any soldering equipment. Thanks, Gaz
  14. Strengthening Thin Rod

    What's the best way to cut it? I got the 1.2mm brass rod today but I'm having some trouble cutting through. My mini razor saw won't seem to bit, scalpel blade isn't doing much, and my sprue cutters aren't having much effect either. Cool, thanks Gaz
  15. Strengthening Thin Rod

    I imagine paint and the usual approach of sealing and so forth would protect it as well Gaz
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