Mark_1984

The suspension comments made me laugh 😂

Without a doubt, this is a masterpiece! One of the best models I've seen for a long time! I've thoroughly enjoyed your build. Thank you for sharing it with us.

A bit of a left field question about the Quinta Studios 1/32 Me 163B cockpit 3D decals. They say these are for the Meng kit, but does anybody know if they will fit the Hasegawa kit? Thanks with optimism! Mark

Never mind the translator English. It’s easy to understand your meaning! The pictures are a joy to see. This is the best thread on Britmodeller.

You must have studied at the Hogwarts School of Modelling!!!!

Amazing work! 👍

Let me dig out my model. I’ll take some pictures. It was a while ago!

I found that the engine wasn't located centrally on mine. It seems that the screws holes are mis-placed. These are the screws H the screw the engine to the cast rear chassis/frame, DCF-05. I fitted the frame to the cockpit, then tried the engine and it looked crooked. I ground out the hole in the chassis and it looked like the engine was going to fit much better and the exhaust & and intake misalignment looked like it was going to improve as well. Unfortunately the model got put away because of space issues, and I haven't finished fixing the engine to confirm that that was the problem. However, I'm fairly confident.

Award winning stuff! You've really captured the atmosphere of the car. I've really enjoyed watching this build! Thanks for sharing it with us!

That looks ideal, but I bet it’s fiddly to apply!

I was referring to the ball joint itself. Remove those two cross head screws at the back in your photo. Then you’ll probably find burrs stopping the ball joint housing closing up properly. It should take some of the slop out of the ball joint. I haven’t tried assembling the rest yet. Could you wrap cotton soaked in PVA round the cylinder to increase the diameter a little? It won’t be durable, but I guess we’re not going to be playing with the model very much 😉

You can improve this by disassembling the ball joints, filing off the burrs and mould lines, then reassemble them.

Neat! I tried their timer which I couldn’t get to work. Probably my fault. Also built their safe, which works a treat. I have the loco in the stash for when I feel like a break from scale models.

Some very nice work there Roy. I’m looking forward to seeing this model come to fruition.

Roy, have you got any pictures of your finished models. I'd love to see some examples of your work to give us a taster of the undoubtedly outstanding level we can expect from his mammoth project.

Wow, amazing skills, and quick too. It’s fantastic to see a scratch builder producing such realistic components in the flesh! im really enjoying this thread!

Nice work so far. The biggest issue I found was the engine was off centre. One of the screw holes was about 2.5mm offset. I enlarged the hole, then the air intakes and exhaust all fitted much better. That’s where my model stalled for various reasons. I’m fairly sure it’s a problem with the kit rather than my assembly. now following with great interest!

Following this. I’ve got the same in my stash, but not started it yet.

I’m glad I stumbled across this build. I’d seen the kit and thought it looked a bit toy-like. However, you’ve raised it to a higher plane! Shows what can be done. I’m tempted now!

Thanks Thanh, all good now. It’s looking really good. You’ve done a great job on the fairings.

Hi Thanh, I tried on my laptop, and all the pics from the first post show perfectly. Looks great too. However, the photos in the subsequent posts just show as grey no entry signs. Possibly they are set to private in Google photos?

I don’t know if it’s my end or not, but I can only see one photo.

You have the patience of a saint! Amazing attention to detail.

Hobbyeasy in Hong Kong has it for about £60. Not sure what import duty would cost, but they are a reliable company in my experience. https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/e9rgvyc2v4lg6kfikmev.html

Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anybody know if the nut holding the top of the rear shock is anywhere near realistic, or would it be a fork welded to the frame and a bolt going through the fork and a hole in the end of the shock?