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About malpaso

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    Established Member

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  • Location
    "Strong Country" Hampshire, UK
  • Interests
    Early aviation, interwar and classic 50's US jets

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  1. Sunderland Mk.I DA-G

    Thanks for all your comments and likes guys. I’m glad the model is appreciated. Alan, I can see buff for bombs, I’m sure I’ve seen various ammunition in that sort of colour in museums. The photo you linked was one I’d seen that convinced me not to go dark green or olive. Besides which I fancied them standing out from the grot. I may give them a brown wash to done the yellow down though. Cheers all Will
  2. The other night I finished my Italeri Sunderland which has been on the stocks since February - thus messing up my plan of a model per month for 2018. There has been some (a lot of) frustration along the way. If you'd like to read more about how I built the kit please see my article in this issue (pages 31-33) of our group newsletter. I assume early war bombs were painted in an early "its health and safety gone mad" bit of bureaucratic nonsense - bombs are dangerous so paint them yellow? A good portion of a tube of Squadron Green was used up on the plane, trying to level out the nose in front of the cockpit and even worse on top of the wings. The mainplanes are 1-2mm thicker than the stubs on the fuselage, so the filler was slathered on, for some reason I forgot to tape off the good side of the joints to ease clean up. Oh well. The top and bottom half of the wings weren't the same chord either so brute force was used! I didn't recall ever using such brutal methods when I read about them on Britmodeller, but obviously I had previously attacked models with this file as there was a goodly amount of squadron green on it... Another niggle was that the guy who did the panel trenching on one side of the aircraft was very heavy handed, whilst somebody else with a much lighter touch did the other side! Once the camo paint was on I also discovered there are very faint lines where there are mould inserts to change from Mk.I to Mk.III - needless to say I decided fixing these by that time would cause more damage than would be justified, but worth watching out for anyone else - I wonder whether the Mk.III ends up similarly afflicted? Although you get a good selection of decals, Italeri obviously didn't look closely enough at the famous photos of DAG as the code letters should be wider and the tail stripes thicker - at least as an emergency unit level paint job there are no stencils. Overall I'm pleased with the look of the plane, but I think it will be a while before I do another large flying boat. I usually avoid weathering, but I'd like to think I made a reasonable stab at the appallingly dishevelled state of DAG in period photos. I don't know where I'm going to put it now though. My main annoyance was clouting bits of it on the light or whatever in the workshop area, as it takes up so much more space when manoeuvring compared to a 1/72 Spitfire. Cheers Will PS for those concerned about such things I cut the grass tonight!
  3. What have you purchased / been gifted

    I am trying to build out rather than add to my stash. Unfortunately my resolve was weak yesterday so picked up this at our club meeting : Looks quite good in the box. There isn't a huge amount on the web about the plane or the kit, but the few built models look like convincing miniatures. I don’t know anything about LoModels but the parts look pretty good, and on their game for the date of the kit (early 90s). It can't be much worse than the Italeri Sunderland I just built!
  4. I built several of my favourite 1/72 kit back in the day, the Airfix Vb, but never in the optional American markings. I thought I’d try the KP tropical Vb mainly due to the American markings on the box art (or more because I looked the look of one of the Grace-style Tr.9 warbirds that was in similar livery at one time).. The plane assembles beautifully in the usual order for Spitfires. Unlike KP-stablemate AZ “Nine”s the wings are moulded full span with alternative clipped tips which simplifies that aspect. The only real problem so far with the kit is the decals, or rather some of them or indeed the lack thereof. I think you’re okay with the two RAF options but KP obviously realised they forgot some of the stars so include an errata decal sheet with two more stars (marked Admiral?) but that didn’t seem to cover the underwing one correctly! After I glossed the IP and seat ready I also discovered they hadn’t included the seat belt and IP decals on the sheet that are noted on the instructions (they’re on the Mk 1b boxing’s sheet though), so the seat belts are from tape and the instrument panel drybrushed! Luckily my pile of Airfix Vbs will supply the missing stars, but a question for Britmodellers – should the under wing roundel have a yellow ring or not? You can read a fuller version of progress to date in our club’s latest magazine – its free to download and there are plenty of back-issuesto look at too.
  5. 6x4 Jeep.

    The real 6 wheel jeeps were somewhat wider too. I'd never heard of the type either until I once saw the "Afrika Korps" barrel into town under Rommel /Erich von Stroheim in "5 Graves to Cairo"*- presumably the 6 wheeler was different enough to portray an enemy type. There's a photo in this gallery http://www.sky.com/tv/movie/five-graves-to-cairo-1943/gallery/gallery-five-graves-to-cairo Some dodgy film makeup Great model you're making, it looks convincing. Cheers Will * great film - Spielberg and Lucas must have seen it before making "Raiders of the Lost Ark".
  6. Revell Boxes

    Why mither on about Revell end opening boxes? Again? No one seems to complain about the same end opening boxes from AZ, Supermodel, Special Hobby, Xtrakit, Matchbox and a gazillion other manufacturers... even the sainted Airfix's Starter kits...
  7. pre- 1950 packing material

    Heavy things would have been fixed to a (probably) wooden framework inside the crate. Small items - I recall older car parts being wrapped in brown oil impregnated paper - at least that's what it seemed like. Cheers Will
  8. This looks great. Should be great when built. I see you’re using a plan for a flying model. You might want to bear in mind that traditionally the flying plans have overscale tail surfaces for stability in free flight. Maybe worth a check if you haven’t already. Good luck with the build. Cheers Will
  9. What are you reading?

    The Tiger Moth Story by Alan Bramson & Neville Birch. I bought it at the Middle Wallop show, and only just noticed it's signed by both authors!
  10. Airfix Model World May 2018 issue

    WHS ones had it in the bag. Waiting to see what my one comes with in the post, usually it arrives before WHS get it!
  11. Avro 504K, 1/32, Scratchbuild

    The "Aircraft in Miniature" book is absolutely fantastic, really recommended and well worth the five quid or so you can usually find it for. I also have the two Christie's catalogues for the sale of Doylend's models in the 90s, which is full of nicely composed professional colour photos of the models - all 1/72 and some sold for thousands of pounds each! He generally used beech (according to the catalogues, not so clear in the book apart from NEVER balsa*) for fuselage and wings, everything else came from household bits and pieces, apart from perspex offsets to carve the canopies from solid. He built everything from BE2 to MRCA with the same methods; from his and other period "solid modelling" (as it was then known) books I think that you had "arrived" when you created either a Supermarine Southampton or a Boulton Paul Overstrand! Not many of either of those have been suggested for BM RAF100 GB...yet? Looking forward to how the Avro progresses, I really liked your submarine thread. Cheers Will *works for me, but needs a lot of grain filling and rubbing down
  12. What weights do people use for tail sitters?

    I have some strips of stick-on weights for alloy wheels. Handily they are marked in grammes 5g / 10g / 20g. You still have to experiment to get the right amount and placement without crushing the undercarriage though! They can also be chopped up for confined spaces, I assume the glue will last for ages given the intended use...
  13. Spot of the Day Part 2

    A brass radiator Model T near Southampton on Saturday. That's pre-1917 year so over 100 years old. Seemed to be running quite nicely.
  14. Well, he’s absolutely fine as the RAF don’t have very many of anything!
  15. The cynic in me.

    From my experience of Aussies, though 25 years ago, they’ll be held in more contempt by their public for the tears than the cheating!