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Badder

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Everything posted by Badder

  1. Badder
    I perform a civic duty, tidying up and .... er... making good use of the things that I find, things that the everyday folk leave behind. Badder (The least well known Womble)
  2. Badder
    What Ozzy said. What I quoted. What I typed. Rearguards, Badder
  3. Badder
    I really like the way that you make mock-ups of the scene before you go ahead. This is something that I DON'T DO EVER, and I suffer for it! In fact, I am suffering right now with my current build! Without the figures and chopper, it's hard to picture the relative sizes of everything, however, it seems to me that the ledge is rather large, so would it not be easier for the chopper to land rather than hover and winch the casualty up? You want to make sure that the ledge is clearly narrow and no way can the chopper land. That's my penny's worth anyway. Reaguards, Badder
  4. Badder
    Okay, the new layout.... The track and mill race on the left both slope down from the back of the diorama to the frame at the front. The mill race will have a bit of the old mill collapsed right on the edge, but I don't want to chop anything else off other than that. So the plaster will sit flush level with the frame all the way along the front. I've placed the white board across the diorama showing the area which I am going to raise. The frame limits are drawn on far right and rear. The arrows show the areas which will be raised, but sloping down towards the front. The building has been turned so that it faces to the left. The area where it sits will be raised, but it will be flat, as will be the case with the area directly to its rear. The cobbled areas will also be flat, but the bit in front of the double doors can now slope down to the track. The area between the building and the front edge can also slope down to the frame. I hope that explains everything? TFL Badder
  5. Badder
    Funny, when I asked if he knew of a Vince living in Guernsey, he said no, but he does know a few clowns over there! BTW, I know you live in Guernsey. I can read you know! And I can see your donkey!
  6. Badder
    I could turn the building through 90 degrees so that it sits face-on to the mill race, but then the front aspect of the building (which is the most pleasing to the eye) would be turned away from the viewer. Although I plan to have this diorama mounted on a free standing 'plinth' allowing 360 degree views, I still want a dominant viewpoint. I'm being fussy, I know. Don't expect anything spectacular with the additional photos! It'll just be a very basic mock-up using bits of paper I expect ! Rearguards, Badder
  7. Badder
    Hi H, Hope you are well? Here's the problem. I said ages ago that I wanted the building to stand on slightly higher ground and in my rush to progress I forgot about it and glued the rubber mat directly to the base. So, I thought I'd strip off the mat and build up the ground beneath it, then plonk the building back on top. But then I ran into another problem, and that is what size and shape should the raised ground be, and how do I blend it in with the track. With the building orientated as it is (in the photos above) it would be a bit awkward to make it all look logical. Raising the cobbled area in front of the building would mean that I'd have to do the old 'chop' on it where it meets the front frame. (You know, the vertical edge which people normally paint black). This is something I wanted to avoid wherever possible, and certainly I didn't want a 'chop' at the front of the diorama. If I want to raise the building and cobbles then, I have to re-orientate the building is such a way that there need be no 'chop'. But also the raised ground has to make sense in conjunction with the track. I have therefore turned the building through 70 degrees clockwise. I can now raise the ground from the rear of the diorama and ALMOST to the front... but with a slope down to the front frame. Meanwhile there can be a slope or maybe even a step down from the building to the track. I will try to make a mock-up and post some photos to explain the new layout. Rearguards Badder
  8. Badder
    Rubber mat stripped off with only minor damage to the underside. Should be okay for re-using. Some major earth-working is required now. I'm guestimating that an extra 2kg of Plaster of Paris is going to be added. Ho hum! TFL Badder
  9. Badder
    Thanks Vince, I was wondering if people would think I'd ruined something and that I was expressing my 'disappointment'. Rearguards Badder p.s. We have a guy from Jersey just started work at our place. Name of Roger. He has hair and a nose and everything. Do you know him?
  10. Badder
    Hmmmmm Silly me. Bear with me while I strip off the rubber mat and cogitate over the orientation of the building and the lack of rise and fall in the terrain. Yes, the diorama is in the process of evolving. TFL Badder
  11. Badder
    Thanks for the extra photos Keith. I always like to see some up-close details for learning purposes. For instance to see how you did the floor plates. Very effective weathering. BTW, are those nuts in the top photo the largest nuts ever? Rearguards, Badder
  12. Badder
    Perhaps a cut-away section of turret will reveal what's going on?
  13. Badder
    The building is going to be part surrounded by a neatly cobbled area. This slips under the front of the building and the porch side .In the photo above you can see the gap under the building which allows me to do this. A rougher cobble will extend further out from the building. For the neat cobbles I'm using the diamond patterned rubber mat, which glues down excellently with medium CA. TFL Badder
  14. Badder
    I have this kit in the stash. It will be my second StuG. I thought I preferred the StuG III, but the rear of the IV might have changed my mind. An excellent job Bill. I am not going to fault it because I can only see what you've already mentioned. Any chance of some aerial views? Rearguards, Badder
  15. Badder
    Super job, Jim. What everyone else said, except I'd like to ask where you got the chain from? Rearguards, Badder
  16. Badder
    Hi Floyd, Nice job. Love to see all those hatches open. Get that rear end open as well! I've only just started dabbling with oils, so I'm no expert, but I would think they are less suited to winter camo schemes than any others. With the majority of the model painted white you have very few options for 'filters'. A blue filter springs to mind, but that's about it. But if you are going for a whitewashed vehicle that is extremely dirty, muddy and rusty then you could use heavier oil washes and get a lot more colour variation. Rearguards, Badder
  17. Badder
    Another anti-aircraft gun, another work of art. Any chance of some close ups of some of the gorgeous details? Rearguards, Badder
  18. Badder
    I do get called Badger in real life too.... by those who mishear my nickname or are taking the mickey. Now, apologise to Mr Stix for the off topic convo! Question for Mr Stix, If you were painting with an airbrush, would you still keep a lot of the parts on their sprues? I ask because there'd be an awful lot more spray going airborne than if you only sprayed parts once assembled. Rearguards, Badder
  19. Badder
    Apologies for the dull pics... but these pics are more about layout than colours! I've cut the wall to length, allowing a gap for a gate to the back yard. I built up the mud on the bank for the cattle wade, have plastered the track up to the rear frame and have extended the plaster to the right, both front and rear. I've also marked out roughly where the 'cobbled' surfaces will be in orange pencil. With the plaster of Paris extending across the base, I need to know where to place the metal gauze for grassing-up. So I've sited the building, wall and tree. I've also sited my old Churchill VII (which was the 2nd model I made upon my return to the hobby) I've put it on the track as this is where I will probably put my new Churchill, and I need to make sure I have enough room for it. If it fits, then a Cromwell should have no problem. The Sherman is only there to provide some idea of spacing. There should be plenty of room for the Universal Carrier. TFL Badder
  20. Badder
    Just a typed update for the time being.... photos later. In the previous photo you can see that I left a bit of an untidy edge to the plaster of Paris where it butts up against the grass bank. This is because I didn't want to get plaster on the grass itself. If you look at the right hand end of the bridge you can see that the wire mesh is not fully covered and that gaps have been left beneath it. Such gaps occur in places all the way along the bank. In some places the 'holes' beneath the gauze are quite deep. However, I had a solution to this problem. I made very runny plaster and poured this into an empty CA bottle. The hole in the bottle's nozzle had was widened by drilling. I was then able to insert the nozzle deep into the holes and squeeze the bottle, filling in the gaps from the bottom up. I continued to squeeze until the plaster rose up to a level fractionally lower than the grass 'roots'. I have added more plaster along the front edge of the diorama and am currently plastering under the sloping mesh at the rear. Once this is done I will have to position the wall and building on the diorama so that I can work out where more gauze and plaster is required. TFL Badder I
  21. Badder
    Hi chap, Yes, the Sea Foam is from Gaugemaster a company based in Arundel, Sussex. There are shops that sell it so have a look on the web. Probably model railway shops are your best bet. If you go back a few pages you will see how I made the barbed wire. It's made using braided fishing line and nylon monofilament fishing line. Good to hear you haven't given up on the Where are you going with that pig' diorama! As for trees, the way I make them, with all the fishing line, takes a lot of time and patience, but I think it's worth it! To give you some idea, the big tree I made used 450m of fishing line! I hope all that helps! Reaguards Badder
  22. Badder
    The 'undercoat' of Plaster of Paris isn't quite finished. I have yet to tidy up the slope up to the grass, the upstream end of the track where it meets the rear frame and the downstream end camera-side of the gate. I have to decide which vehicles will be on this track before making the ruts. I can make the verges though. The track won't be as straight as the plaster suggests and will widen out before curving around to the front of the building. TFL Badder
  23. Badder
    Maybe that half a truck could be a Krupp Protz that was wrecked during the German invasion? Food for thought. Although I don't know if the occupying Germans would have let him get away with converting it into a cart. Reaguards, Badder
  24. Badder
    The plaster of Paris is being laid down in patches. When it's done I will post pics, but they aren't going to be very exciting. Rearguards, Badder
  25. Badder
    I'm beginning to think he's a forester rather than a farmer, so he'll need a 2-horser to cart the logs to the wood market. I may have been drinking alcohol. Rearguards, Badder.
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