Jump to content

erewhon1872

Frozen
  • Posts

    174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by erewhon1872

  1. thanks for Simon and Fernando for the replies,much appreciated. looks like if I combine a F-4E Resin cockpit and a Wolfpack F-4EJ Kai set I'll be somewhere close? Thanks again, Pete
  2. wonder if there are Phantom experts that can help me? I have the Hasegawa F-4EJ Kai Phantom II kit in 1/48 and wanted to get a replacement resin cockpit but cannot find one specific to the JASDF Phantom. I could get the True Details TD48517 Resin replacement cockpit for the F-4J but not sure if it's appropriate for the F-4EJ? Any advice gratefully received! Pete
  3. Andy thanks for the tip on the Eduard sets, I'll try to track them down, Pete
  4. Chris how do you read that text, do you think it means the P-E set fits the Fujimi kit only while the seats fit both Fujimi and Hasegawa? I have an F1 but also plan to get a T2, so looks like I'll need three seats? Pete
  5. to answer my own question this chap does a Resin set and also looks like some cockpit PE comes with it http://llama84.tripod.com/id5.html have asked him for details and got a reply straight away, he's in the States but may be the only game in town? Pete
  6. just found this thread so looks like the question may have been answered before http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234971081-weber-es-7j-ejection-seats-in-148/ Thanks to Marcus for the reply
  7. are you sure it's like an F-106 seat? The Delta Dart was a late 1950's aircraft and while not brand new the Mitsubishi F1 would have been designed in the 1970's, is it likely to have used an ejector seat design that was already almost 20 years old? Not saying you are wrong as frankly I don't know which is why I'm asking the question in the first place,
  8. Hi all, I picked up a really nice Hasegawa Mitsubishi F1 from the Hinckley show today but as the ejector seat is rather basic I wondered if anyone knows if there's a replacement resin seat out there for this kit? Hopefully the seat is a common one used on other aircraft, so wonder if there are any JASDF experts on BM who know if there's a suitable aftermarket item? Thanks in advance, Pete
  9. I use the levelling thinner with Mr. Hobby paints and while it smells a little it is manageable indoors, the cellulose thinner is much stronger and while I don't mind dipping a brush in it and getting the bottle top on again ASAP the idea of atomising it in a spray.............. well, it's not for me thanks.
  10. thanks to all for the replies, looks like I'll have to experiment with a 50/50 mix of the surfacer and the Mr Levelling thinner and see what the results are. I appreciate the advice yo use cellulose thinners but as I'm spraying indoors and if spraying it is anything like using it to clean brushes with the liquid thinner on them then it will stink to high heaven and I don't really think I could stand those sort of fumes. Thanks again, Pete
  11. Hi all, I have a pot of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black and as per usual all the instructions on the side are in Japanese. Have seen videos where this has been used and it looks great, but cannot find anything that says how you thin it, what size airbrush needle to use or pressure to spray at. I have both the Mr Colour ordinary and levelling thinner and I think they can be used to thin this I'd assume 50/50, but would like that to be confirmed? So if anybody has used this primer and could give me the benefit of their knowledge I'd be very grateful. Cheers, Pete
  12. I can see now the 'X' is a lot bigger and in a different position to the painted out symbol on the tail of '743' Pete
  13. thanks for all the answers, so it looks like '743' was with one squadron and then transferred so they painted out the old emblem which was mid-tail and added the new one on the tail leading edge. My mistake as the painted out symbol looked like the red 'X' of the AETE. I think in the end I'll leave the tail with just the 409 badge, although having said that I am well qualified to paint the old badge out badly!! Cheers as the links above have cleared up the mystery, having said that I am still not sure when the AETE mark should actually be used?
  14. thanks for the information, so if it's a flight test facility are the markings only applied when the aircraft is at Cold Lake for testing and removed once the test phase is over? Also would an aircraft marked this way carry armaments/fuel drop tanks/a sniper pod etc. or would it be a 'clean' aircraft while at Cold Lake? Pete
  15. Hi all. I'm just completing a CF-188 and want to make this aircraft http://www.rcaf-arc.forces.gc.ca/assets/AIRFORCE_Internet/images/news-nouvelles/2014/11/141030-f-mg-591-415.jpg I have the Canuckmodels sheet WVD005-48 that includes a marking that is described as "AETE Type A" which is a large red cross on the outside surface of the tails. In the picture above '743' has what I think is this cross rather crudely painted out on the tail but I'd like to include it as it would give a small dash of colour to an otherwise very grey finish. So question is what does the "AETE Type A" mean when applied to a CF-188? Is it for some kind of training exercise or particular mission these Hornets flew? And as I want to replicate the weapons load in the picture am I ok to add this tail marking to a fully loaded CAF Hornet? Thanks in advance to any CAF experts out there who can enlighten me. Pete
  16. same here, although I thinned my W & N Galeria Matt 50/50 with Tamiya X-20A and that worked fine too. I have now also had 'crazing' problems with the Humbrol Clear Gloss varnish, which has been ok in past. So now my clear coat needs are met by.............. Matt : W & N Galeria Matt (tried and works a treat) Satin : W & N Galeria Satin (not tried it yet but assume it will be as good as the Matt) Gloss : Alclad II ALC-600 Aqua Gloss (tried and is superb) So that just means I have to pour away four bottles of the Humbrol stuff. Shame as I really want to support Humbrol but, for me anyway, their varnishes just do not work properly. Pete
  17. I have a solution to this now but it does involve a paint that has sort of been discontinued. I did the drop tanks in Tamiya X-6 Orange which was ok but a but flat and not really Day-Glo (to my tired eyes anyway) so over that base I sprayed Gunze Sangyo Aquequs H98 'Fluorescent Orange' and now I think I have Day-Glo, or close enough for me anyway! The trouble is looking at a recent GS paint chart the H98 isn't on it, but they do the same colour in the Mr. Color range as C173 'Fluorescent Orange'. So after a lot of trial and error I think I got a solution. Again thanks to all who replied to the original question. Pete
  18. ok thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Obviously the Hasegawa version is the way to go! Pete
  19. Hi all, not sure if this is the right forum to ask this but was wondering is anyone had build Fujimi Mitsubishi XT-2 in 1./48 and is it a good kit? I don't know if these kits are now 1990's vintage but they seem to sell for a high price and I wondered if anyone had experience with this or other kits by Fujimi and could tell me if they have problems or are well worth the investment? I haven't checked but with a type like this I should imagine it's hard to find aftermarket bits for it? Interested in any replies, Pete
  20. the CA on the joints of the drop tanks may well explain why I get terrible results re-scribing those, but I have used the same scribing tool on panel lines on wings where there's been no trace of CA and got equally bad results, but that may well be just my mistake technique rather than the scriber! Regards, Pete
  21. thanks to all for the suggestions and information, I'll check out the various tools on the links and try one or two of them out, I do like the look of the Dentistry tool but may not be able to stop myself saying "soooo, Mr, Bond, we meet again" every time I use it though! Pete
  22. my problem is I have nice if quite deep grooves in the drop tank, then they get to the bit I have re-scribed and they look nothing like the lines either side of them, at least from a distance they look ok but close up they are terrible, Had the same problem on other models, it's as if I should have a scriber that will scribe lines with angled sides, but what I get is a furrow worthy of a plough! Peter
  23. Hi Jonners, I used the Rocket CA glue and left it for quite a while before sanding.These are very noticeable as I did not have to re-scribe the whole lines, just where I'd sanded out the details on the seams. So I have perfectly good lines around the tanks and terrible lines just at the seams, you cannot see it from a distance but up close they look terrible. What I am trying to do is replicate the type of line already in the plastic, what I am getting is something that just looks like it's been scratched with the end of a sewing needle.............. I think that may well be the point where I get a 'what's wrong with using a sewing needle?" message! Cheers for the Hasegawa suggestion, I wasn't aware they made a light or heavier scriber but suspect they may be difficult to purchase as I see a lot of Tamiya tools in model shops but rarely if ever one by Hasegawa.
  24. Hi all, can anyone either recommend a good scriber or tell me what I am doing wrong? I have a Trumpeter scriber which was recommended in a magazine review, but the results I get with it are terrible, For instance I made up the drop tanks on the Kinetic F-84F model and being the size they are they had a long seam line between the halves. After sanding and filling the 'panel lines' (for want of a better phrase) around the tanks has gone but only at either side of the tanks, so I used Dymo-tape (spl?) and the scriber I have, I now have nice panel lines around the tanks except for on the seams where I have jagged lines that look like I've ploughed a field rather than what they say in the best 'how to' manuals "replaced the missing lines". So is it the tool I am using that's no good, or is it fine and it's something I am doing because I would have thought there aren't too many different ways to cut a new line into a piece of plastic? But I may well be very wrong! Thanks in advance, Pete
  25. on advice from 'Silver Fox' who did a Folland Gnat with Day-Glo panels I didn't use a white base as he said it took him ten coats of the Model Air over a white base to get a good finish, so I have used a generic 'Orange' as a base, in this case Tamiya X-6 and if I can't get the Model Air to work the tanks are staying as Tamiya X-6! Pete
×
×
  • Create New...