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Marvel Onkey

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182 Excellent

About Marvel Onkey

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    New Member
  • Birthday 24/11/74

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  • Interests
    WWII planes that remind me of Commando War Picture Library; Cricket, History, Classic Cars, Beer, Food

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  1. I live in Herefordshire so I'm used to being miles from anywhere, but as an enthusiast of WWII planes mostly I'd regret that part of the collection going to Hendon, likewise it would be much harder to visit the museum if it were all centralised- at the moment it isn't a short journey to Cosford, but it is a daytrip; getting to London is a serious commitment of time and money from here.
  2. I keep mine thicker than that and give it a good stir from time to time. I also 'feed' it now and again, either with a bit of liquid poly if I think it's got a bit thick or with poly and sprue if it needs topping up. I suppose there's no one true formula- if it does what you want it to then you've got it right for you.
  3. Wet and dry paper works okay
  4. I brush paint so I sand with Micromesh (8,000 and 12,000 grade) after every coat. I use coarser wet and dry after the primer coat to try to get as smooth a base as possible, then I'm just trying to gently flatten out each coat before the next one and before varnishing. As was said above, how much flattening and polishing you do depends on how much of a perfectionist you are- a bit like restoring cars, some are concourse standard, some are good '10 footers'; you pays your money...
  5. I've found varnish can go a bit odd if the paint you are putting it on is not properly dry, that might contribute to the streaky finish. Also +1 on thinning paint thoroughly- flow improver is a godsend for brush painting.
  6. Thanks- I'll try painting away from the tape, seems like a simple discipline that hadn't occurred to me
  7. I'm brush painting my first splinter camo scheme. I've masked it up but thought of a pitfall... How do the expert brush painters avoid a 'step' in the paint when painting up to the tape?
  8. What he said. I've moved away from priming prior to assembly for this reason.
  9. I second that- it should be black
  10. That's good- no complicated pros and cons of different kits to weigh up!
  11. I've also been thinking of a long-project to build all the planes that flew in the BoB- can anyone advise the best 1:72 kits for the above mentioned sea planes?
  12. Ace models make 2 different Austin 8 staff cars in 1:72; a saloon and a tourer; either could be painted as an RAF car or even a civilian model belonging to someone on the station. I used one in my 'Station Commander's Inspection' vignette shown elsewhere on this forum. The Bomber resupply set from Airfix could also yield vehicles and equipment that wouldn't all be out of place in 1940.
  13. Hmm, perhaps the last one might be just a tiny bit more than I had in mind. Thanks fellows, some great pictures there- looks like I need do no particular oil staining then (good news). Thanks for your help Adrian
  14. What does the underside of an ME 109 look like after use? I'm building a BoB era Airfix Me 109 and struggling to find a contemporary image of the bottom of one in flight. I'm wondering if they chucked out oil in a distinctive pattern like the Hurricane or Spitfire or if the seals were tighter and the oil mess underneath was limited?
  15. Well I'll be jiggered. I use that app all the time for paint comparisons or just to figure out what paint I was supposed to be buying. I never noticed the the inventory option before you pointed it out. Problem solved in the easiest way- thanks.