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Marvel Onkey

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About Marvel Onkey

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 24/11/74

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Herefordshire
  • Interests
    Cricket, History, Classic Cars, Beer

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363 profile views
  1. AEC Matador(Marshall?) 6x6 fuel bowser details

    Dare I suggest that in extremis you could model it as a vignette with a figure stood right in front of the pump who might just co-incidentally be obscuring some of the bits that are hard to get an image of...
  2. Revell Aqua Paints for 1940 Luftwaffe Colours

    It isn't too difficult; although I only do 1:72 at which scale it's fairly easy to give a reasonable impression of the effect- at 1:48 it might be harder to make it look exactly like the real thing. Finish your camouflage coats first, then add the mottle. I suppose you could varnish the finished paint job first so you could remove the mottle if it went wrong, but I usually take some brave pills and crack on over top of the finished paint job. My method for adding the mottle is a bit like dry brushing- I use a small stippling brush (mine comes from a Humbrol set of varying sizes): dip it lightly in the paint, then dab it end on onto some kitchen towel to remove most of the paint, then dab it end on onto the plane. Much like dry brushing the trick is to build up the amount of mottle little by little, not going too heavy, just dabbing away with tiny amounts of paint until you get the effect looking sort of right all over the plane. The hardness of the bristles of the stippling brush seem to give the right sort of effect. I find it helps to stop adding mottle sooner rather than later, leave it for a bit then come back and view the overall effect- it is easier to add a little bit more in places if you think you've under-done it. If you've over-done it you can always tone it down a bit by using the same technique but dabbing on light blue rather than dark green (but it is best not to have to do this, it doesn't look quite right).
  3. "Black Rufe" Mosquito flown by Alan Kipp

    Four FW-190s in a Mosquito? Were they all destroyed on the ground? If they were destroyed in the air then that's some flying isn't it?
  4. Aerial line - the best for 1/72?

    I use E-Z line, available in a number of varieties- very forgiving to use- easily fixed with a tiny bit of CA and it's slightly stretchy so doesn't spell disaster if you accidentally catch it when handling the model afterwards. Pretty sure I got mine from Modelling Tools who are members of this forum (and very helpful too), but as the BBC would say, other suppliers are available. I note that the Modelling Tools website suggests there's a temporary supply delay http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/ez-line-31-c.asp The one I have at the moment is a touch overscale for 1:72, but not so much as to be glaringly obvious to the layperson.
  5. Paint problems

    Well thinned paint, and only make single brush strokes (i.e. a single pass with the brush). Don't go over the same area again until it is dry, even if you missed a bit- takes a bit of self-discipline to forestall the natural instinct to make multiple brush strokes but it really helps with avoiding brush marks.
  6. Grainy acrylics?

    I'm no expert, but I try very hard. All my modelling is on the dining room table, so enamels and and airbrush are a non-starter for me. I'm moving away from Humbrol acrylic paints, I find them to be not the best for brush-painting, not necessarily because it is hard to avoid brush marks, just because of the grittiness. I find the little pots that come with the starter kits more grainy than the regular stuff, but with both I find that even when thinned a lot and stirred excessively I still get little gritty lumps in the paint that have to be polished out, which is a nuisance. I haven't settled on my brand of choice to replace my Humbrol though- the jury is out between Revell Aqua and Xtracrylics. I find Vallejo model a bit thick for brush painting larger areas, difficult to avoid brush strokes even when well thinned- it is brilliant for small figures though (I only do 1:72). Tamiya acrylic again I like for figures and small details but I find it dries too quickly for brush painting larger areas, but that might be me. Whatever paint I use it gets a good dollop of W&N Flow Improver as a thinner.
  7. Correct paint/clear-coat types... acrylic vs enamel

    I don't 100% agree- I find some new decals will behave nicely using this approach, others need a bit more encouragement to conform to the surface they need to bed down into, even ones from the same decal sheet. As with most things it's down to trial and error and developing an approach that suits you. Otherwise Black Knights 10 steps are exactly the process I follow. I don't use decalfix for fixing decals, in the past I've had it react badly with underlying Humbrol acrylic paints so now I use Microscale decal solutions which I get on better with. As an aside, I do use decalfix sometimes as part of the weathering process- see the Humbrol youtube channel for a useful little video on this technique.
  8. 55 seconds?

    In several of his books James Holland states that the HE 112 would have been a better bet for the Luftwaffe than the Bf 109- it's clearly something he believe. All historians are influenced by their own underlying beliefs as they interpret history to a certain extent; to me this is one of Holland's little foibles.
  9. 1/72 WW II RAF aircrew, standing

    I like to include figures in my models; there are some very nice ones around, but some are quite expensive. If you search on Hannants website for 1:72 figures there are a number of different options come up for varying costs that will give you an idea of what's out there- as well as the options others have noted above. The Revell figures are good- they are technically out of production but as noted above they come up on EBay fairly often for a reasonable value. The Airfix figures have some nice poses and a nice mix of pilots and ground crew and WAAFs standing around to allow for different scenes, but the aforementioned nasty soft plastic does make it a swine to get paint to stay on them.
  10. RAF Thunderbolt Questions

    Anyone with a small baby knows why the KGB used sleep deprivation as an interrogation technique...
  11. Airfix Me262 - a look in the box

    So in this instance the old maxim of it being good if it looks good is a long way off the mark...
  12. Airfix 1/76 Control Tower

    Fascinating info, especially on the camouflaging of runways; I wasn't aware that was done.
  13. Airfix Me262 - a look in the box

    From the OP's photos of the sprues it's a bit hard to see the detail on the pilot- I've not long finished an Airfix Spitfire Mk 1 and a Bf-109 E4 and those pilots had different uniforms that looked authentic to their respective airforce uniforms for the BoB era to me.
  14. Airfix Me262 - a look in the box

    I can't say how far back they made the decision to not represent the swastika, but I can't recall an Airfix Luftwaffe kit that had the swastikas in the box art or the decals. I understand the reasoning behind that and there's plenty of aftermarket decals available for those who want them. It doesn't bother me either way, but there's many that have strong feelings about it.
  15. B-24 oil

    Looking at the picture I'm curious about the pattern of the oil across the wings- to me the flow on the starboard wing seems to tend inboard as it goes across the wing, but the port wing it looks like it flows straight back...or is it just my eyes?
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