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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies last won the day on July 18 2016

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    Aberdeenshire, UK

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  1. 1/350 HMS Dreadnought

    Hi Nick, I think there's a certain amount of artistic license allowed. There's no denying that the pre-war greys fairly "kill" the model. I think yours is pitched very well for the record. It captures an appropriate feel and character. You're right about XF-50 insomuch as the greys used at this time were neutral greys made only of black and white, as you will have seen by now.
  2. 1/350 HMS Dreadnought

    Hi Nick, Depending on time frame, it would be fairly appropriate. From 5th August 1902 through to 18th November 1914 the standard shade used on all RN capital ships was Dark Grey. This was infact a very dark grey. Most modellers just copy each other and excessively light shades a.) because someone didn't know/ didn't care / just preferred how it looked then b.) because the next guy had this image of the first anchored in his mind as his idea of "right". From 19th August 1914 through to 7th July 1916 the shade used was simply called "Grey". This too was dark, just a bit lighter than the pre-war "Dark Grey". After Jutland the colour was changed to "Light Grey", with the word "Light" being relative; the colour lightened to about the tone of what we now know as Dark Sea Grey or thereabouts. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=154630
  3. USS Enterprise Paint Colour

    Hi Fred, Ours (UK made enamels) are on the second page of this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0730/0927/files/US_Navy_Ship_Colours_Chart.pdf?205554285801963019 US Navy Haze Gray (for the vertical surfaces) is FS36270 (Colourcoats M03) US Navy Deck Gray (for all decks except flight deck) is FS36118 (Colourcoats M04) The non-skid Flight Deck Gray (for the flight deck) is FS35076 (Colourcoats M05). Note that the flight decks do suffer a lot of colour degredation from flight ops - but this is the correct colour when freshly applied The anti-fouling red used now I mention it isn't on our colour brochure for the US Navy - must fix that! but it's available as Colourcoats M06
  4. USS Enterprise Paint Colour

    Are we talking about CVN-65 Enterprise? If so, the colours are totally bog-standard US Navy Haze Gray for all vertical surfaces (which we make; Colourcoats M03) with their usual deck gray (M04) and flight deck gray (M05). I could dig out FS595 numbers for these ...
  5. Propellors/Airscrews

    Many aerodynamicists would disagree on that, I learned a number of years back. Like a helicopter, a propeller blade flies aerodynamically and accelerates the air behind it. By contrast, the term screw to many suggests a simple ratio of forward movement to rotation governed by a pitch. Propeller blades generate thrust to varying degrees depending on factors such as air density, efficiency of the blade itself, and aerodynamic balance of lift and drag coefficients of the blade aerofoil as well as, of course, the blade speed and pitch. Thrust generation from propeller blades is fairly complex but the action of tracing a true helix with the blade tips is only true in steady state conditions - constant airspeed, constant RPM and constant blade pitch. Many aerodynamicists and hence shunned the term "airscrew" as it can lead to flawed understandings of how the thing actually does its job.
  6. Here's another one I started earlier.

    My bold, whilst very safe, there's no paint-driven need to wait that long with the latter Dennis I've done two to three colours in a day plenty times with the satins. With the matts, I've done 3 colours inside 2 hours (with most of that time used up masking).
  7. 1/350 Scale HMS Repulse to HMS Renown

    Repulse Renown
  8. 1/350 Scale HMS Repulse to HMS Renown

    Repulse was a beautiful ship indeed. The Renown was heavily reconstructed and looked vaguely similar to the KGV class during WW2. The whole bridge area was stripped back and rebuilt in the style of KGV or the reconstructed Queen Elizabeths. She retained her catapult and hangars, but her funnels were equal height unlike Repulse. As you noted Repulse's 4" triple mounts were deleted in favour of 10 twin high angle turrets on Renown. The armour belt position was a deck different though resulting in one sister having a row of portholes below the main deck and the other not! Repulse was supposed to be reconstructed to the same standard but history got in the way. Hood was too, as it happens.
  9. 1/350 Scale HMS Repulse to HMS Renown

    Depending on when you want to model Renown, you may be easier scratchbuilding the ship. There really wouldn't much left of the Repulse kit if converted to a WW2 Renown, and the changes necessary would have the major plastic parts cut up such that it would be simpler and definitely stronger to simply scratchbuild. You can't even use the hull parts - Renown's prominent armour belt was in a noticeably different place to Repulse's. About the only thing common between them by around 1940 was the main turrets, and Trumpeter's aren't great anyway. There are scratchbuilding techniques that could be shared should you wish to explore that. It's entirely possible and I do not wish to sound negative at all. The Repulse kit is expensive though and IMHO it will hinder rather than help you.
  10. Too good to be true?

    Yes, same company. I chatted with him for a while. Their metallics/chromes impressed me greatly, I have to say.
  11. Pontos Model Restock

    We've updated our webstore with fresh Pontos Model stock: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/pontos-model We have more 23009F1 1/200 HMS Hood spare Fret #5s for the aft funnel correction, and we have the recently released 1/350 USS Missouri 1945 Advanced sets. We've got almost all the Royal Navy sets back in stock now along with the Essex class Yorktown carrier set, Japan's Kongo and Mikasa and a new set for us - the USS Texas BB-35 set.
  12. What have you purchased 9

    As Stew says it was really busy and opportunities to walk around were limited. http://village.photos/images/user/483a5850-3d62-4900-8176-6062170ac842/resized_9be2f2ea-69e7-4528-9638-83132073ca1e.jpg I had pre-arranged with Peter Hall of Atlantic Models to buy the Hesperus kit. Peter very kindly added extra guns to the kit to help me build the I class HMS Imperial, which a relative was on at Crete. I can't wait to build this one. The Jolly Green Giant was easy as Whirlybird was right across from us too, and I had been eyeing it up last year. Malaya and Penelope came from Mike McCabe's Starling Models. Malaya is for me to use our latest-research RN colours on, and Penelope is a present for my daughter Penelope. The Black Pearl was @MrsSovereignHobbies's work, having seen it on Revell's display and then asked Mr Wonderland who's name (to my shame) I have yet to discover if he had any... Lastly I picked up new engines for my 2 year shelf of doom Tamiya Lancaster from Mike Belcher on Sunday when we left Stew in charge so Gill and I could go looking for new little manufacturers we could stock.
  13. SMW 2017 Telford 11th & 12th November

    There's one guy on Facebook who bought a Matchbox 1/72 Twin Otter from the kitswap and on Saturday night discovered it was missing the entire Twin Otter. Only the optional floats were in the box. All the aircraft parts including the wheeled undercarriage were missing. Nice!
  14. SMW 2017 Telford 11th & 12th November

    Coastal Craft carry AKAN paints.
  15. Tamiya 1/48 Beaufighter in black. Trim Tab Tribulations!

    Yes that's right. It forms a sort of parallelogram arrangement to force the balance tab to move the opposite way to the elevator. Apologies for pedantry but to avoid any confusion - the trim tabs and balance tabs have different functions. The inboard flappy bits are the trim tabs. These move independently of the elevators and are controlled from the cockpit. Aerodynamically they "fly" the elevator and the pilot uses them to bias the elevators. The aircraft trim changes with airspeed, flaps up or down, wheels up or down, power setting, payload etc etc. This causes large forces through the control column or yoke and a major distraction to the pilot, not to mention being very tiring. The pilot will trim the aircraft using the trim tabs to neutralise these forces and make it fly straight hands-off. Pretty much all conventional aircraft have these tabs. The balance tabs are less common and are there to reduce the force needed to move the controls in flight. Balance tabs are not directly controllable by the pilot. They are mechanically rigged to move the opposite way to the elevator to help the pilot deflect it, thus reducing the forces the pilot must exert to manouver the aircraft. This isn't intended as a lecture, but when it's clear what something actually does then I find it's usually quite easy to understand how it needs to be configured to do it