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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    Boss Man

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    Aberdeenshire, UK

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  1. A short one! Tamiya 1/48 DH Mosquito B.Mk IX

    That would be a long trip for a model show Ced! Besides, we'll take Stew back to Telford again I am wondering if I should try to arrange a Saturday night informal/low energy necessary gathering for steak, chips and a pint somewhere... I don't think Stew much remembers the show, besides meeting you, letting the helium balloon go on Saturday morning to get stuck in Hall 1's roof steelwork, the guy with the awesome paint stirrer who accosted Gill at teardown on Sunday about one tin he bought from WEM years ago and attracted post-show contact from the hall manager after another trader reported this geezer to him, and all the steaks he ate over the weekend
  2. A short one! Tamiya 1/48 DH Mosquito B.Mk IX

    I think I've painted the camouflage backwards too Hmm can that be recovered in time? Unlikely, tbh. It's times like this when this entirely stops being remotely enjoyable and firmly establishes itself as just another flipping chore. Edit - or have I? Is it Matchbox's boxart that's backwards? I can see I'm going to have a productive day looking at pictures.
  3. A short one! Tamiya 1/48 DH Mosquito B.Mk IX

    For no particular reason, it's going to be 105 Sqn's ML913 which is the same aircraft that featured in the Matchbox 1/72 kit This is not the ideal way to do this, but I couldn't find anywhere that made decal sheets of code letters in red. The general theme of "rushed job" remains This side came out alright - I used the same tape masks for the other side and got a little bit of bleeding. I decided to let it dry and sort it out later, lest I make a mess with softened paint. So, that's tonight's job and I will try to make a start on the decals. I will need to raid the stash - Tamiya's red is and always was non-typical of RAF red and now I have painted letters the correct colour it will stick out like a sore thumb if I use the kit decals. Tamiya's red leans too far towards blue giving it a purple caste rather than a rusty red appearance like it should have.
  4. USAF grey in Vietnam

    It measures green towards yellow rather than blue, interestingly.
  5. I used the Vector one for my P-51B. It looks great now that it's in but was quite a bit of effort to get in. The kit wing skins needed to be thinned down a great deal. I am going to lay off Mustangs for a while. I could not go back to Tamiya's incorrect rendering, but am not in a rush to do this again either!
  6. I am really hoping for a quick result this time, because this has to be finished by Thursday night. I've taken it so far, and now it requires Stew's non-judgemental judgement. This is about not giving Stew the satisfaction of not mentioning the fact that he was right and I haven't finished yet another thing! So, Tamiya Mossie with resin bits. The purpose is to bring to the Scottish National Scale Model Show a model built using the Pangolin two-stage engines, plus some Ultracast bits because they make things better than not having them. Obviously all paints are Colourcoats with ACRN07 Ocean Grey, ACRN09 Dark Green, ACRN17 Night and ACRN28 Interior Grey Green featuring most predominantly. Fearing running out of time, I didn't use the control surfaces in the end, and on closer inspection the canopy masks from the drawer were for the Revell one I have in the stash so I ended up doing it by hand which angered me because I hate masking. So first of all it needs propeller bosses. These aren't on the engine castings as they'd be too weak. Normally I'd try to use brass for this sort of thing but didn't have any the right diameter and definitely didn't have time to faff about waiting on mail order so I cut out the kit ones and superglued them in. Next the engines need cut from the Tamiya kit. It's pretty easy - straight cuts along kit panel lines are all that is required: The fit is much better than when I tried this using Paragon castings (not because there's anything wrong with Paragon castings, only that they were explicitly designed for the Airfix kit and hence don't fit the Tamiya kit very well!) The cockpit was roughly painted - no fancy work here - and everything is OOB save for the Ultracast seats which are better and have seatbelts which are visible through Tamiya glazings. The Tamiya decal seatbelts don't cut the mustard: That done, it was closed up, given what little seam work Tamiya kits usually need (which did include a thin scraping to blend in the nacelles to my liking, but nothing major). It was then airbrushed straight onto bare plastic/resin/filler without priming, black basing, preshading or any of that caper: The grey and green were airbrushed freehand. Not my best work, but still learning the new airbrush. It'll be ok though. These colours were minimally masked in strategic places (fuselage demarcation, wing roots, tailplane roots, cowling demarcations) and the rest was sprayed Night. It currently has a gloss enamel clearcoat curing and I hope to get the decals on tonight: Two or three weekends ago, when Stew was last here helping with paint tinning, I came downstairs and confessed that I had cut the single piece bomb door moulding in half to show them open. Stew looked as alarmed as he did disgusted with my stupidity - because now I had given myself a Bombay interior to paint as well! The propeller tips were painted yellow last night, and will get the rest painted black tonight. Unlike my usual habits, the undercarriage is completely painted and assembled already so can get plugged right in once the decals are on. I haven't painted the 6-stack exhausts yet but should hopefully be able to fit that in before Thursday night!
  7. What have you purchased / been gifted

    My grandmother (long dead now) used to send my uncle (also long dead now) to buy Christmas presents for me with her money. It was always some 1/72 scale behemoth like a YB-49, or B-52. I think he just chose them based on box size, but I thoroughly enjoyed building them even though I really wasn't very good at it at all! I now, thanks to you, have a hankering for a 1/72 scale 4 engine jet again. I look forward to seeing your WIP!
  8. Tirpitz advice for a new model shipbuilder

    HI Mikey, If it's the Pontos deck you mean (putting price and your question together) then yes, it comes laser cut on a plastic backing sheet to pull away. The deck itself is finished and need only be applied to the model. A big advantage of them is that you can prepaint turret barbettes and moulded-on deck furniture that you will keep quickly and easily with no care for being neat. Simply do this before applying the deck and you will have perfect demarcation between wooden deck and painted 'metal' parts. One thing I do when using them is to give the deck washes various tones to subdue and grey the appearance slightly. It's a personal preference. The other thing I do is run beads of medium CA glue on the kit deck, not going too near where the edges of the wooden deck will be (including holes cut out) immediately before applying it. The first one I did I just relied on the self adhesive glue which is ok, but my house and modelling room in particular has a lot of glass and is prone to big temperature swings. The first model was prone to lifting in places - the rest have been fine since. A few tips if you do use a wooden deck (any brand): 1) use a scalpel to pick out all the laser cut holes before separating from the backing sheet. Get it to the point where the only wood left is what will be permanently applied to the model. The glue is quite tenacious so you will have it stuck to your hands if you separate it from the backing sheet before you're 100% ready to stick 2) Remove degrees of freedom by choosing a high feature (e.g. the tallest turret barbette) and locating the deck over that feature first. That then constrains longitudinal and lateral movement. All you have left to do is to rotate the deck in the yaw plane until some feature near the end of the deck also lines up and you're in position. Then start to lower it down that first high feature and start to rub the deck down from the middle working outboard to ensure no air bubbles are trapped. Infact, I did this couple of years ago. It's the Pontos Models deck for HMS Repulse in the video. Exactly the same sort of product as you seem to be considering for Tirpitz. Apologies for the somewhat naff video! It was a camera phone held by Gill whilst I babbled inanely about decks after getting lots of similar questions! On looking back, it has admirably failed to capture the planking detail on the deck. Must have been too much glare or something!
  9. Sikorsky S-61N question.

    @WhirlybirdModels does the full kit have cabin windows per chance? I really, REALLY must get mine finished but I keep hoping someone makes me some clear cast resin windows so I don't have to
  10. The basics are transferrable. You're right if I deduce correctly that you think there are differences. I'd suggest just giving it a go. The biggest differences are that ships look a bit pants without some detailing, and that the requirements of painting and attaching fiddly bits are somewhat contradictory. If you get a good kit that fits together well, it's possible to build and finish a ship as sub assemblies. Instructions, and especially Trumpeter's, usually direct you to assemble it in the absolute last way you'd want to assemble a Trumpeter kit - e.g. add all the fiddly bits to superstructure to deck, then glue the deck to the hull to be reminded it's Trumpeter and doesn't fit without an angle grinder and a hammer. I won't comment on scale but I do have personal preferences. I know you want to be a Brit when you grow up ( ) so if that extends to ships I will suggest something barmy and recommend you give Peter Hall's "Atlantic Models" a look and consider his resin (yes you heard that right) Royal Navy destroyers. The castings are superb and need no remedial work. I'm on my phone and hosting is a PITA. I'll send you a few pics on Facebook Messenger.
  11. DKM Graf Zeppelin Upgrades (53206 & 53207 for Trumpeter) 1:350

    The whole thing has an element of "what if" but many of the details were finalised and installed - structural gusset plates, etc Sure, some could have been changed later and more added. The final detailed model is a "what if" by definition. Devoid of any detailing though, it's not really a "what if" and more a "definitely not that".
  12. Broken down. Again!

    Up here in the North East, Skodas are mostly popular with the elderly, taxi drivers, and those who wish to broadcast how sensible with money they are. The first and last of those are those menace unispeed wazzocks. It matters not how slow I go, I always seem to end up with a Skoda trying to drive 6ft off my front bumper. I swear I could be driving this thing and have to slow down for a Skoda round here: The taxi drivers seem to dispel any myth of reliability. Skodas break down just as enthusiastically as anything else from the Volkswagen family. Gearboxes, dual mass flywheels, emissions gubbins, bits of plastic trim falling off the underbody are all things I've heard from taxi drivers of Skodas over the years - along with many many more. More than the complaints of some brands but less than others. They're probably more reliable than a P38 Range Rover, but they're not Hondas. They're reasonable value for money, but let's dispense with all this nonsense that Germans engineer better cars. They don't, and haven't for decades now. What they're good at is marketing. The cars themselves are rather ordinary - to look at, to drive, to own, to maintain.
  13. It's the best quality build in both of the fleets Stew Thank you so much for doing this!
  14. Hms belfast and Hms Rattlesnake

    I'll keep one by for you. I've the new Home Fleet Grey also but nowt else is ready yet sadly. I just started the website admin yesterday for the changes needed. I forgot how much work was in that. Argh!