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Jnkm13

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Everything posted by Jnkm13

  1. Alright. I'll test spray a small hidden portion of the carpeting and see how it accepts the paint. Looking at some reference photos in Paul Koo's DVDs, the cars with red exterior and beige / cream interiors had carpets matching the upholstery. So I think I'll also go for a similar colour to match.
  2. I have no idea how to go about modifying the carpeting. Never thought of it actually, since I figured that red body, white seats and brown carpeting should match. Any suggestions on how to modify the carpeting?
  3. Hi guys. Took me quite some time, but have just managed to finish the front and back seats. I used an off-white leather together with 1mm leather leather cord. They are not perfect and minor touch up with paint will be required. After this, I will be working on the doors.
  4. Thanks! The wheels are the kit's original plastic wheels. I painted them with artist oils, then a mist coat of semi gloss over them.
  5. Thanks guys. I have alot to learn from all of you. I have posted some WIP years back for my 1/12 Mefistofele, Fiat 806 and Bentley Blower. But once all of those were wiped out thanks to Photobucket, I stopped posting. I will be getting some hex rods from MMC to mount most of the parts (I got this tip from Codger's RR build). Will I also need 2mm nuts or will the Pocher's nuts work? With the body now in place, I can see that the doors are fine, but this is before I have the leather on. It's the hood that will be the main concern and I doubt I can get the hood flush unless I have the body and fenders set in position. For the hood, the 2 top pieces will be hinged using Pocher's hinges. Then I will use piano hinge to mount one side of the hood and use neodymium magnets on the side panels. The magnets work well with the piano hinges, and since they are 3mm wide and 1mm deep, they are easily pressed into holes drilled across the length of the side panels. This is at least how I plan for it to work in my head, but we will find out once the piano hinges arrive. This weekend will be spent upholstering the seats. I have also shared some photos of my 1st completed Pocher Fiat F-2 in the Ready For Inspection section. Regards, Jeremy
  6. Hi guys, Here's my first completed Pocher kit. Built around 2.5 years back. Took me around 6 months. It was my first Pocher, so it was built without any upgrade parts from MMC. Wood veneer was used for the interior and some added bolts and bits. It was a blast building this kit and got me addicted to Pocher, big time! Also have to add that I had lots of help from Paul Koo's DVD. I was particularly pleased how the wheels turned out, painted with just artist oils, as I always had problem painting woodgrain. Regards, Jeremy
  7. If there is any admin reading this, can you please delete this double post? The first time I posted, there was an error which said post was not successful. Then double postings appeared. Thanks.
  8. Hi guys, It has been a few years since I've posted on this forum. I'm currently building this Pocher kit, and through my emails with Larchiefeng, I figured it's best for me to do a build log here to get some feedback on the build. The engine has been completed, and the body and fenders have been tested mounted on. All of this was done with the help from Paul Koo's DVD. The body will be painted red, with cream interiors. Here are some photos of my progress so far. Sides of the engine are opened up to show the pistons. I have inserted a square styrene into the header. I am using the original Pocher pipes and they wouldn't really fit into the round headers. I'll post more as I progress. Regards, Jeremy
  9. Absolutely loving it. I also especially like the base for it.
  10. This is one of my favorite builds of all time. Truly an inspirational build and thanks for all the fantastic tips and detailed pictures along the way. It has been a very rewarding journey and thanks for sharing. Regards, Jeremy
  11. Looks absolutely stunning and majestic!
  12. Sorry, should have been more clear. The thinner I used was Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner which I think is less agressive compared to commercial lacquer thinner.
  13. Hi Ian, Molotow chrome is no where as fragile as Alclad, but it will be affected by handling as well. It takes quite a long time to dry. I place it near the window for sun bathing for a few days, turning it periodically. The Bentley badge was from the kit. I was lucky enough I manage to salvage it when first removed. I had a few layers of primer and then gloss black on the shell before Molotow chrome. Problem with Molotow chrome is that it needs to flood the part before the chrome gets its shine. This affected the detail on the badge. So I rubbed off the chrome only on the badge right down to bare plastic using lacquer thinner. It was then just getting the right amount of molotow chrome on the badge so that the details are still visible. Regards, Jeremy
  14. Hi Codger. It was sprayed at 15PSI.
  15. Thanks for looking in guys. Hi Ron, I sprayed it at 15 PSI. Hi Andi, the finish is not that durable. I handled some parts after 48 hours and it does affect the shine a little. Even so, it's miles more durable compared to Alclad, and more importantly way easier to achieve the desired finish. It quite fool-proof. I only have Mr.Hobby Super Clear and Mr. Hobby Acrysion Clear. The Acrysion clear does dull the finish. I did not try Super Clear. The radiator casing will not be handled much, so I won't be coating it. Just hoping that the finish doesn't dull over time. Regards, Jeremy
  16. Hi guys. Copying my post from my WIP thread. A small update. Sprayed Molotow Liquid Chrome on the radiator shell. The liquid chrome was thinned with approximately half Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner. While Alclad Chrome requires light misting coats onto a glossy surface, Molotow requires just a sanded smooth primed surface. I achieved the effect below my laying on a few layers in quick succession. First layer will not appear nice, with some uneven effect which gave me a scare. Then after 2 more coats, I got the effect I was after. SinceI diluted with 50% thinner, the coats were pretty light anyway. I think the trick is to get enough coats on. Before the 50:50 mix, I tried 100% Liquid Chrome. I found that it went on way too thick. Below is a picture of a scrap piece. Scrap piece coated with acrylic gloss. Significant dulling of the chrome. I wanted to test how the chrome goes onto untreated parts. Must say that it's very good as even the wooden handle of the brush has good shine. Top part coated with acrylic gloss vs bottom part uncoated. The bottom part was chromed right from the sprue, so please ignore the less than perfect appearance. I tried handling the chromed parts after 3 days drying. While handling doesn't remove the chrome (it's much more durable than Alclad), it does have some minor dulling effect. If any dust gets onto the part while spraying, wait a couple of days for it to dry, then sand it. You can spray on the chrome again and it'll still look good. Regards, Jeremy
  17. Hi guys. A small update. Sprayed Molotow Liquid Chrome on the radiator shell. The liquid chrome was thinned with approximately half Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner. While Alclad Chrome requires light misting coats onto a glossy surface, Molotow requires just a sanded smooth primed surface. I achieved the effect below my laying on a few layers in quick succession. First layer will not appear nice, with some uneven effect which gave me a scare. Then after 2 more coats, I got the effect I was after. SinceI diluted with 50% thinner, the coats were pretty light anyway. I think the trick is to get enough coats on. Before the 50:50 mix, I tried 100% Liquid Chrome. I found that it went on way too thick. Below is a picture of a scrap piece. Scrap piece coated with acrylic gloss. Significant dulling of the chrome. I wanted to test how the chrome goes onto untreated parts. Must say that it's very good as even the wooden handle of the brush has good shine. Top part coated with acrylic gloss vs bottom part uncoated. The bottom part was chromed right from the sprue, so please ignore the less than perfect appearance. I tried handling the chromed parts after 3 days drying. While handling doesn't remove the chrome (it's much more durable than Alclad), it does have some minor dulling effect. If any dust gets onto the part while spraying, wait a couple of days for it to dry, then sand it. You can spray on the chrome again and it'll still look good. Regards, Jeremy
  18. I'm waiting for the refill to arrive and will use it on the radiator shell of my Bentley build. Will post up pics once it's done. Will also try spraying Mr. Hobby's Acrysion clear coat over it to see how it holds. Regards, Jeremy
  19. This is stunning build and great photography to match! Regards, Jeremy
  20. Hi Roy, I think 1/8 is an excellent decision. Building the Bentley Blower at 1/12, the scale certainly limits what the details one is able to add. A larger scale would definitely allow you to add all the details you want, and I think it would also be easier machining parts in larger scale looking at how detailed your build is going to be. Regards, Jeremy
  21. Thanks Robin. Loving the work you are doing on the 806 as well. Excellent progress there.
  22. Thanks for the tip. Shall give this a try.
  23. Absolutely stunning. The paint job has turned out great and lovely choice of colours. Regards, Jeremy
  24. Thanks for the compliments. I wouldn't have attempted all these if it was not for all the stunning work going on here, especially the many inspirational Pocher builds. Here's some updates. Various small parts being fabricated and the screen completed. Straps and buckles on the hood.These are not completed yet. The side engine panel catches are made using various ally tubes and are movable. I don't know what these are called, but they are "L" angles for the side hood panels to sit into place. The dark brownish part as supposed to be dampeners. Any C&C is most welcomed. Regards, Jeremy
  25. Managed to get some work done on the tonneau. I am quite happy with this, so shall keep it as it is. The lighting somehow highlights and magnifies the grain of the leather in the photos, but it is not that obvious. Regards, Jeremy
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