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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Jnkm13

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About Jnkm13

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  1. Hi Codger. It was sprayed at 15PSI.
  2. Thanks for looking in guys. Hi Ron, I sprayed it at 15 PSI. Hi Andi, the finish is not that durable. I handled some parts after 48 hours and it does affect the shine a little. Even so, it's miles more durable compared to Alclad, and more importantly way easier to achieve the desired finish. It quite fool-proof. I only have Mr.Hobby Super Clear and Mr. Hobby Acrysion Clear. The Acrysion clear does dull the finish. I did not try Super Clear. The radiator casing will not be handled much, so I won't be coating it. Just hoping that the finish doesn't dull over time. Regards, Jeremy
  3. Hi guys. Copying my post from my WIP thread. A small update. Sprayed Molotow Liquid Chrome on the radiator shell. The liquid chrome was thinned with approximately half Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner. While Alclad Chrome requires light misting coats onto a glossy surface, Molotow requires just a sanded smooth primed surface. I achieved the effect below my laying on a few layers in quick succession. First layer will not appear nice, with some uneven effect which gave me a scare. Then after 2 more coats, I got the effect I was after. SinceI diluted with 50% thinner, the coats were pretty light anyway. I think the trick is to get enough coats on. Before the 50:50 mix, I tried 100% Liquid Chrome. I found that it went on way too thick. Below is a picture of a scrap piece. Scrap piece coated with acrylic gloss. Significant dulling of the chrome. I wanted to test how the chrome goes onto untreated parts. Must say that it's very good as even the wooden handle of the brush has good shine. Top part coated with acrylic gloss vs bottom part uncoated. The bottom part was chromed right from the sprue, so please ignore the less than perfect appearance. I tried handling the chromed parts after 3 days drying. While handling doesn't remove the chrome (it's much more durable than Alclad), it does have some minor dulling effect. If any dust gets onto the part while spraying, wait a couple of days for it to dry, then sand it. You can spray on the chrome again and it'll still look good. Regards, Jeremy
  4. Hi guys. A small update. Sprayed Molotow Liquid Chrome on the radiator shell. The liquid chrome was thinned with approximately half Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner. While Alclad Chrome requires light misting coats onto a glossy surface, Molotow requires just a sanded smooth primed surface. I achieved the effect below my laying on a few layers in quick succession. First layer will not appear nice, with some uneven effect which gave me a scare. Then after 2 more coats, I got the effect I was after. SinceI diluted with 50% thinner, the coats were pretty light anyway. I think the trick is to get enough coats on. Before the 50:50 mix, I tried 100% Liquid Chrome. I found that it went on way too thick. Below is a picture of a scrap piece. Scrap piece coated with acrylic gloss. Significant dulling of the chrome. I wanted to test how the chrome goes onto untreated parts. Must say that it's very good as even the wooden handle of the brush has good shine. Top part coated with acrylic gloss vs bottom part uncoated. The bottom part was chromed right from the sprue, so please ignore the less than perfect appearance. I tried handling the chromed parts after 3 days drying. While handling doesn't remove the chrome (it's much more durable than Alclad), it does have some minor dulling effect. If any dust gets onto the part while spraying, wait a couple of days for it to dry, then sand it. You can spray on the chrome again and it'll still look good. Regards, Jeremy
  5. I'm waiting for the refill to arrive and will use it on the radiator shell of my Bentley build. Will post up pics once it's done. Will also try spraying Mr. Hobby's Acrysion clear coat over it to see how it holds. Regards, Jeremy
  6. This is stunning build and great photography to match! Regards, Jeremy
  7. Hi Roy, I think 1/8 is an excellent decision. Building the Bentley Blower at 1/12, the scale certainly limits what the details one is able to add. A larger scale would definitely allow you to add all the details you want, and I think it would also be easier machining parts in larger scale looking at how detailed your build is going to be. Regards, Jeremy
  8. Thanks Robin. Loving the work you are doing on the 806 as well. Excellent progress there.
  9. Thanks for the tip. Shall give this a try.
  10. Absolutely stunning. The paint job has turned out great and lovely choice of colours. Regards, Jeremy
  11. Thanks for the compliments. I wouldn't have attempted all these if it was not for all the stunning work going on here, especially the many inspirational Pocher builds. Here's some updates. Various small parts being fabricated and the screen completed. Straps and buckles on the hood.These are not completed yet. The side engine panel catches are made using various ally tubes and are movable. I don't know what these are called, but they are "L" angles for the side hood panels to sit into place. The dark brownish part as supposed to be dampeners. Any C&C is most welcomed. Regards, Jeremy
  12. Managed to get some work done on the tonneau. I am quite happy with this, so shall keep it as it is. The lighting somehow highlights and magnifies the grain of the leather in the photos, but it is not that obvious. Regards, Jeremy
  13. Ian, the oil line will go under the radiator casing. It will be terminated there since once the radiator is in place it's impossible to see where the line goes.The line is not permanently fixed, so it can be removed and extended if I need to attach the other end. There are also 2 lines running on the left side of the engine. I suspect one of it connects to the blower. I have done up these 2 lines and although there are not connected the the blower, the run towards the radiator and then bend downwards. So it will still look connected to the line from the blower. Shall post pics of this later. Regards, Jeremy
  14. Thanks guys! Much appreciated. Worked on the 'attachment points' for the tonneau cover. They are basically a combination of 0.8mm and 0.6mm ally tube, with a small rivet on the top. The 0.8m tube goes into the hole drilled on the body. The inner 0.6mm tube slides freely, so the height can be adjusted. Be warned that doing these are damaging to the eyes. I got one side done, and will do the other side tomorrow. Regards, Jeremy
  15. Most excellent. Fantastic that you even made the effort to explain how this was done in Excel. Much appreciated. Regards, Jeremy