This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

rjfk2002

Members
  • Content count

    262
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

92 Excellent

About rjfk2002

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New York, US

Recent Profile Visitors

260 profile views
  1. You read my mind Wayne. My plan is to start the engine while you are working on the shocks and suspension. I plan to go through the kit this weekend and sort out all the parts. There are a ton of white metal parts in bags that need to be sifted through. It will also give me a chance to make sure all the parts are there. I am sure they will get back to you shortly Wayne. I was under the impression that Autograph is a sole proprietor business (or close to). I give them a little slack for slower response or missing parts than Hornby. I am sure they will make it right for you
  2. The new shocks look nice. As you said this is still a pocher so never assume the parts fit the first time! Can you take them apart and repaint the whole thing? Or will you mask off the spring and paint?
  3. So I took a look at the parts and instructions this evening. I think you are right Wayne and need to drill holes into the shock body so the piston can slide in. In steps 2 and 3 there is a little note next to the two shock body parts that indicates drill 1.8 mm (I had to zoom in on the PDF to make sense of the graphic). I put the piston in the caliper and it is ~1.78 mm wide. That must be how the piston is seated. I skipped ahead and it looks like both ends of the shock get bolted suspension arms so that will keep the whole assembly together.
  4. Really creative solutions here Mr. C. I am glad the kit hoods could be adapted to fit. Also the new sides are looking good. Will be curious how many louvers you go with!
  5. Thanks gents. I wasn't sure how the various colors would look but it came out nicely. Haha I don't want to think about what I am getting myself into with the F40. It probably could close to fitting on the back of the beast... As I was trying to fit the hose and using strong adult language I didn't notice that the oil line had popped off. It wasn't until I finished with the hose and moved the model that I noticed it lying there on the table... in retrospect I should have glued both ends down. I had drilled a hole for a peg which I glued, but the other end was taped down (simulated bracket). Oh well...
  6. Engine Installation I decided to paint the transmission a different color to break up the green a bit. Here is the engine, ready to be dropped into the frame. I didn't put a clamp on hose going into the top of the radiator as the tube is a bit squished. It's not noticeable in black but when I added the foil it became apparent. Also I left the turbo charger off in this pic (more on that later). Here is the engine in the frame. It dropped in OK and only required some slight left/right adjustments to get it to fit under the cab floor. For a moment I thought I was going to avoid the typical Pocher fit problem. But remember the turbo charger? That was a harsh reminder that nothing fits on a Pocher the first time. There is a black corrugated hose that attaches from the turbo charger to the muffler. There isn't a lot of space to work with to get the hose on the muffler and it was a tight squeeze. Eventually it slipped on. When I attached the other to the turbo charger that is where I ran into some issues. The whole assembly popped off the engine and took out one of the oil lines The oil line proved to be a lost cause. To reinstall I would need to take the engine out again to reattach. I worried that I would potentially damage something else in the process for an oil line that is almost entirely hidden by the frame and supercharger. I used stronger glue to get the assembly reattached and anchored to the engine (should have used epoxy the first time). I left the hose on the supercharger and stretched it back to fit. That seemed to work.
  7. Wayne is a little bit further ahead than I am in terms of organizing. I am still digging through the box of parts trying to figure out what I got myself into! My plan is to leave the car in its current red color and not cut open vents in the body. I may also leave the fully detailed engine outside the car and drop a stock model engine in the car as so much of it is covered up... I am still a few weeks away from kicking the build off in earnest but Wayne is ready. I hope you all enjoy the adventure! It's going to be a long one. Rich
  8. Welcome back Steve. The Bugatti is looking great. Do you have a color scheme picked out for the body yet? My build is on pause until my paint skills improve. The various body panels fit together pretty well out of the box (for Pocher standards) but the door hinges were super fiddly to get right. Rich
  9. I second Keith's recommendation of the Paul Koo DVD. It points out problem assembly spots and gives you some good ideas for detailing. You will have a blast with this kit. I built the coupe and look forward to seeing your build! Rich
  10. I am just catching up here Ron. The PE looks great. How did you get the design down? Did you draw it on paper and they converted to PE or did you design on the computer?
  11. Fixing Hoses Minor update. I have been wrestling with getting a hose fitted between the fan/radiator and the engine. The first hose was too soft and kinked when I tried to bend it. In Paul Koo's DVD he recommends using cutting a piece of a Nintendo GameCube controller cord to stuff in the tube to keep it solid and flexible. Unfortunately I don't have a controller to sacrifice so I dug around to find another tube. I had one that was much thicker than the kit hose and didn't kink. Unfortunately this one is slightly bigger and doesn't cut as cleanly. My scissors didn't work well so I used sprue cutters which left an uneven kit. I decided to go with this instead of the kinked kit hose. You can see the results below and the gap caused by the poor cut. After staring at it for a while a solution popped to mind - black electrical tape to cover the gap and metal foil tape to fake a hose clamp. This did the trick. The metal foil hides the top seam of the electrical tape and breaks up the black to hide the different shades. I thought it was a neat trick and worth sharing.
  12. I looked at their website and sales start in April for the US. Looks like a nice kit
  13. They sell kits directly in the US and Canada. My guess is they will start selling the jag in a few months. With their other kits they seem to first start selling In the U.K. and then the US 3 or 4 months later
  14. Stunning work Ron! The weathering is outstanding. I like the contrast between "oiled" areas like the water pump and heated spots like the exhaust.
  15. I guess sometimes the first solution is the right one. The kit hoods look to be pretty close to fitting your customized front. I was expecting them to be short by 5mm or something Iike that. Looks like you have a date with plastic strips and bondo coming up!