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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

rjfk2002

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About rjfk2002

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  1. Really impressive work Wayne. That is a lot of plastic to hack off. Is it still pretty rigid with those struts gone? I see you are using the bolts for the control arm brackets in the back. That's a great idea. Hopefully the suspension geometry in the rear is more accurate and requires a lot less fiddling for you than the front.
  2. It's amazing what a difference there is between the regular kit parts and the transkit modified ones. I am glad you got PB back running.
  3. Great to have you back!
  4. I love all the hand made details you are adding Poul. Any update on the rear light housings?
  5. Dry Fit I cleaned up the body panels and did a dry fit of everything this weekend. I'm glad I did as it brought a few issues to my attention. There were the normal fit issues, many of which were highlighted in the Paul Koo DVD. The tan door inserts that fit into the red door panels needed a lot of work. Some ribs needed to be removed so the two pieces would fit and the door lock opening needed to be extended so the mechanism could move fully. The doors also hit the dash preventing a clean close so some modification to both areas are necessary. Fortunately if I pull out the dash the doors close nicely so there is no warping of the major body parts. I will need to remove some material from the dash and perhaps the door to get it all to fit. I'm quite happy that I did the dry fit as it also highlighted that my original painting plans are problematic. The fit between the roof and the front panel is poor. An eagle eyed viewer will see a light line in the second picture at the top right corner of the body. That is a gap, not a reflection/light effect... I will need to paint the interior of both panels, glue them together and then work on the external paint. Some effort will be necessary to get everything to fit - hopefully it is just some shape work and strong glue but who knows. Once it fits then I will paint. So much for my plan of painting all the body panels individually and then assembling...
  6. The engine is looking good and busy now with all the cabling/wiring. Your custom PE grill looks outstanding and makes a big difference too. Did you get your hands on a workshop manual to help with all the wires?
  7. That is a helpful tip Schwarz-Brot! Looks good Wayne. The bolts are much better than the screws. They really look real... I continued to monkey around with the micro hardware this evening. There are some nuts that need to be embedded to eventually hold the muffler I believe. I used Mr. C's technique from his rolls build - thread a bolt through the nut and use a soldering iron to melt the nut into the plastic. It worked like a charm.
  8. Haha you caught me doing some double checking there Wayne. I wanted to see if the autograph and scale hardware bolts were interchangeable - they are. I now have some spares if the carpet monster claims some bolts. The cookie sheet is a great idea. I also doubt I will use the watchmaker screws. They are just so small and frankly not noticeable once the engine is built up
  9. Looks great Wayne. Getting those vents open is a lot of work but looks great. How does the body look with the paint off - any problem areas in the metal or is it pretty clean? I have done a little work on the engine. Here is a shot of the transmission housing. The brass PE parts are bolted on while the steel ones are superglued. There are tiny watchmaker screws in the kit (~0.5 mm or so) that can be fitted to hold the PE plates in place. My attempt at doing so resulted in a broken drill bit. I need some new bits before trying again... The bolts that go into the holes are 1mm bolts with a PE washer. It looks really nice but is a bit fiddly.
  10. Preview of the Fun Ahead I'm inching closer to the last big assembly - the cab! Unlike the Bugatti, the Volvo's body is constructed from a series of panels that are screwed and glued together. I will probably paint the interior of each panel and apply one coat of color before I start to glue panels together. If I have a glue mishap I can easily repaint without losing a lot of ground. If it all works then I have a nice base to add additional color layers and eventually a clear coat.
  11. oh man I may need to stock up on more putty!
  12. Cab Support As promised I'm adding a few work in process pics to this update. Below are the sink marks I alluded to in a prior update. More good old Pocher quality control... They were pretty deep and highly noticeable. I filled them in with putty and sanded down using some very thin sanding blocks with varying grits of sand paper. There were also similar marks on top, back and edges of the part. It was a mess. I filled in everything that would be visible on the final build. Here is a pic of the full fully assembled cab support. For fellow Pocher builders out there the springs are the same ones used on the Mercedes shocks. It's kind of fun to see where Pocher reused parts from the classics on the Volvo in random spots. As an aside the speckled effect above is a combo of the lighting and the pearl paint and not orange peel. Last up is the installed part. I needed to remove a little bit of material from the frame to get the cab support to fit. The air hoses are heavy-cored wires. I wrapped around the handle of an Xacto knife (minus the blade for safety) to coil it. I plan to create scratch some nozzles for the end of the hoses. Once the cat walk is installed I will shape the hoses a bit to make it look more natural.
  13. When Primer Goes Bad These big Pocher's feel like they eat paint by the bucket full. I have gone through countless cans of primer and color. Along the way I came up with the result below. I had primed the part and then used Duplicolor but got this mottled finish. At first I thought that perhaps my Duplicolor was running low. Checked the can and it was full. I tested it on a white plastic spoon and the color was fine. I thought perhaps the Pocher plastic was bad. The answer came several days later when I grabbed the primer, popped the top and noticed there was gunk/leakage around the nozzle. The primer was bad. It sprayed gray and seemed fine until the color coat. So now I know if I see this outcome, bin the primer and get a fresh can
  14. Pascal thanks for the joining the conversation. Your build as well as Ton's have been fascinating reads. Thank goodness for Google chrome translator! I am still drilling out bolts on my engine. I will post some pics when I have made some more progress. I am struggling to come close to the pace of Andretti Wayne over there
  15. Some Shiny Bits... Well I stripped the top of the exhaust stack and fixed the cracked seam with some putty and Mr. Surfacer. Here is stack with the guard in place. There is an aluminum tube that fits on top (the non-silver plastic) which I have left off for the time being. The bottom fits into the air muffler. It was a bit short so I had to use a few rings from the corrugated plastic tube to fill it in. Here it is installed along with the top of the battery box. I used Tamiya Black Rubber spray for the box to give it a rubber look and add some contrast to the frame. Next up is the cab support. There were some really nasty sink marks on the part that required some clean up. I will show some pics of the process in the next update