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About rjfk2002

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    New York, US

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  1. Truly incredible work. It is amazing how little details like this really bring the car to life. I can’t wait to see how you tackle the lettered end plate!
  2. That is nice, clean work with the PE. Are you going to paint the parts or leave the PE in stainless?
  3. You need real force to get the seat into the floor. Don't worry the parts are sturdy! As as for the engine lid I had fit problems too. The countersink screws helped as did not using some of the screws that held the side of the body to the main cockpit. I don't recall which set it was but when I left them off the lid fit fine. I think the screws were squeezing the frame too tightly, distorting the rear deck and throwing the alignment off. Rich
  4. It is not obvious to me how to bend that piece. Perhaps you can trace it on paper and practice. That way if you make a wrong fold you won't ruin the part
  5. Pocher Volvo F12 Build

    Thanks sir! The Pocher engineers were definitely asleep when they designed this kit
  6. For organizing the PE sheets I like using Manila folders for each sheet and then tucking the folders into a plastic pocket file. It is really easy to get to each sheet and keeps them flat
  7. Pocher Volvo F12 Build

    Thanks Wayne. I am finding that putty and plastic card/rods are becoming my new best friends ha
  8. Pocher Volvo F12 Build

    Turning Sow’s Ears into Seats As I have alluded to previously, the kit seats are a real mess. They consist of 4 parts each – 2 halves for the base, a seat and a seat back. The fit out of the box is awful. The base consists of a right and left half. As you can see the seam is really bad and the two sides are far from flush even after a solid sanding session. Rather than continue down this path I decided to try using some plasticard to create a new front. The second pic shows the results. This is much better and took a fraction of the time. I also used some card to create a backing for the map pocket. The seat is also a pretty lousy fit out of the box. There was no good way to get both the sides and the headrest seams to line up properly. I picked the sides and choose to sand/putty the head rest into place. Below is an in process pic. I used Tamiya white putty to fill in the gaps. In retrospect this was mistake as the putty shrank way too much. It took multiple applications to get it right. If I were to do it again I’d use Bondo. It doesn’t shrink nearly as much and is a bit easier to handle. And now the final product. Pardon the shadows, I don’t have the best lighting for photos on my bench.
  9. Pocher Volvo F12 Build

    Painting is slow as I am not getting the results I want. The parts I previewed in earlier posts have been stripped and repainted a few times as I get my technique down.
  10. Congratulations! That's a great reason to keep us waiting for your return to the lathe ha!
  11. Pocher Volvo F12 Build

    Dashboard Details After a bit of a summer hiatus I'm back on the beast and ready to add some details to the dash. A google search turns up many different button configurations for the F12 so I just picked one. I used Testors enamels and the smallest brush I could find for the buttons. The chrome came from a Molotow 2mm pen. The Molotow paint is amazing - very easy to use and doesn't drip. Those marks are from an unsteady hand... The decals are from the Paul Koo set. I used some archival tape to create the lens effect on the dials. They were cut off the sheet with the backing still on to prevent rippling. The Pocher plastic is "bumpy" to give it a vinyl texture I guess. The buttons are all waterslide decals. The buttons were quite fiddly, thankfully the set includes two copies in case of slip up.
  12. Pocher Volvo F12 Build

    Thanks for the tip on Flickr. I switched over from PB and relinked everything. It is much better than PB! I will circle back to my Bugatti thread too and fix eventually.
  13. A BIG Rolls Royce

    A fitting home for such a masterpiece!
  14. Welcome aboard Kerry! Your work is great looking. How did you apply the CF decals? Are they waterslide or need to be pasted. The instructions reference wall paper paste but the decals look like waterslide... Rich
  15. I would recommend a few tools that I really wished I had when I built this: Taps - There are several different metric screw holes (a few particularly small) that are intended to be self tapped with kit screws. It's a real pain and in the case of the small ones usually ends up stripping the head of the screw making it useless. Gets the taps from Scale Auto Works and/or Paul Koo, some mineral oil (help lubricate the treads), a tap holder or pin vice and save your self the headache. I think I ended up damaging enough of the small screws trying to tap parts that I had to order extras from Hornby Screw Starter - MMC sells one, it is a screw blade with retractable jaws to hold the screw. It is great for hard to reach/blind screws as well as just normal screws. It's a really handy tool Small Nut driver - The headlamps have these little clear LED bulbs that need to be glue in place. They are tiny and really hard to hold in place. I tried to use tweezers with tape and it didn't work so well. I lost a few to the carpet monster and had to order extras from Hornby. Looking back I think you can pop the part in a nut driver and use that to securely hold it until the glue dries. You'll want to lose clear canopy glue and not CA. The CA fumes will damage the part and cause ghosting. You can also use the glue to help hold down the windshield - the kit supplied double sided tape isn't strong enough I don't recall if you have the Paul Koo DVD but I highly recommend it. It's very helpful in pointing out potential problem areas (for example wheel wells are too long in some kits causing problems with the floor plan)