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nice work! I look forward to your RC213 build!

looks very good! I'm just about to get back into building again and I've chosen the Williams FW14b (Tamiya), just after quick glances its interesting to see some of the similarities in the engines

Looks great! As for the gluing the tubing, if its the MFH tubing you are using then they do not glue well at all. I usually use a 0.25mm metal wire and drill into the part that will be needing the tubing, I glue the metal wire into the drilled hole and push fit the MFH tubing on, your work will look much cleaner and then you can manipulate the tubing as much as you like without having to worry about it coming off on the glued end. For the blue, are you using Zero Rothmans Blue? I'm really enjoying this build, keep up the good work mate

no worries fella, hit me up if you have any more questions

I usually use Aclad Microfiller Primers and they work really well and you can use them under Zero and Gravity colour coats

Hey Shaun, I've been using Zero for a while now so I'm pretty experienced with them. I have also just started using Gravity and I am on my 3rd kit using Gravity so I have some experience with it too. So in terms of them both as colourcoats, I found that the Gravity is more to scale. The metallic flakes and the pearls used seem to be much more to scale and unlike Zero who seem to have overscale paint (as Metroracing was saying). Both Gravity and Zero colour coats looks the same once sprayed (matte finish) as both require clearcoats on top. I would say that Gravity is a little less forgiving as a colourcoat, you need to spray the coats on lightly and build up the colour whereas with Zero you can spray it relatively heavy without any issues. In terms of mixing them, it should be fine, have a look at my Lambo Miura build and you will see my little write up on the Gravity colours and also you will see I used Gravity as the main colour and Zero paints gunmetal as the secondary body colour without any problems or reactions between the paints. As for clearcoats, I can only comment on 2K clear as thats what I used and I couldnt see a huge difference between the Gravity Colors 2K clear and the Zero Paints 2K clear. Overall I prefer Gravity but they havent got the selection of colours like Zero does, so if I need a colour I first look at Gravity and if they dont make that colour then I will check Zero Paints. Hit me up on Facebook and I will give you my contact for Gravity Colors and he will be able to help you out more. Hope this helps bud

Some of the chrome are transfers which are provided in the kit. Some other bits are done with a new product I tried from Hasegawa, its basicallly like BMF but not as thin and fragile, you can it see it in the pic above on the gearshift stalk.

Hey bbudde! I ordered the oil paint but it hasnt arrived yet, once it comes I will give it a shot. As for when I use the oil paint, do i paint it straight on or do i need to thin it down with something? and is it a case of brushing it on or dabbing it?

Thanks Ashley, I wouldnt really call it an engine, more like a block of plastic with some detail at the top and bottom (where you can see). There wouldnt be any point in having am open engine bay unless you do some seriously extensive mods. As for what can be seen? Very little, you can peek through the slats but you wont get a good view of the engine, if I were you I wouldnt bother with the air trumpets as you probably wont see them at all

I actually had this done a while ago but havent had time to upload etc. Overall and pretty simple kit, I purposefully didnt go crazy with getting everything detailed and everything perfect. This was more of a chill out build in preparation for the next super detailed build I will do. I also got the chance to use Gravity Colors paints and I am very pleased with the outcome, for me in Australia its a lot easier and cheaper to get Gravity Colors as opposed to Zero Paints. I would assume the same for US customers too as Gravity is based in Florida. I would recommend this kit to a beginner builder who wants a kit that will go together pretty easily without fuss and hassles. For the more advanced modeller, there is a little bit of scope to add further detail and perhaps make doors that open and close but aside from that there would be very little that can be enhanced on this kit. Heres the link to the final pics: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999353-lamborghini-miura/ Some things to keep in mind for this kit: - There is lots of flash and some bits that look like flash but are actual parts for the kit, be careful when cutting off the sprue and double check everything! - Decals are terrible! They seem to have a matte finish to them and also the adhesive footprint is huge compared to the actual size of the decal you require so you have to trim the decals down and in some cases this is made difficult due to the size of some of them. - Go over the body and look for sink marks, I made the mistake of not really looking at the body too closely so there are tiny sink marks, luckily for me the pearlescent paint does a good job to hide them I think that pretty much covers it, thanks for watching this WIP and feel free to ask any questions you like

WIP can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998464-lamborghini-miura/ Detail Up Sets Used: PE Seatbelt Crazy Modeller Flocking (Dark Tan) Decals: Hasegawa kit decals Nuts and Bolts: None Wiring and Cables: None Paint: Alclad Duralium Metalizer (Wheel Rims) Spazstix Chrome (Wheel Knock Offs) Tamiya Acrylics Custom Mix (Interior) Gravity Colors Arancio Atlas (Main Body) Zero Paints Nissan Gunmetal (Lower Section Body) Gravity Colors 2K Clear

Thanks Siffo! Thanks Dave, if you have any questions feel free to ask

Really nice work Caterham! Your pics are pretty good too, lightboxes are awesome things! As for the lightbox showing every imperfection, this is actually a good thing if you are anally retentive about things like me, I use it often to inspect my work and fix/clean it up if required. If it looks perfect through a micrscope or at high levels of magnification then you can bet that it will look absolutely amazing to the naked eye Keep up the great work dude!

You can spray directly over the clear metal primer without any issues

I am really liking the different shades of blacks and grey you have used on the engine to bring out the differences in all the parts, great work mate! If you cant find the Tamiya stuff then look for Mr. Hobby Mr. Metal Primer, its also clear and is very similar if not the same as the Tamiya Metal Primer.