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About Ologist

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    Yorkshire W.R.
  1. AK Extreme Metals

    I've tried a couple of shades recently, and have to say, I've been very impressed with them. The finish is just about as good as Alclad, but they are a bit more forgiving to spray. I've used a pressure of up to 20 psi, and they've gone on very smoothly and dried quickly, with no sign at all of graininess. Whilst they don't go down quite as thinly as Alclad, they still need a well prepared surface, as even tiny scratches and surface flaws will show through. You can easily patch up some areas and they blend in very well. A big advantage, as least time wise, is they don't need a primer coat. The smell is also not quite as overpowering as Alclad, but I still make sure I've got a lot of ventilation. They are thin enough to spray direct from the bottle, after a good shake, as they settle out quite quickly. Although described as enamels, they need something a bit stronger than white spirit for airbrush cleaning, but liquid reamer makes short work of this, if negating the advantage of their lower odour. Jon
  2. I'd missed the last posts whilst taking far too long to find my own build thread somewhere in the darkness of page 4. I'd like to offer Allexander as much encouragement as possible to stick with the build, you'd made good progress, its really not that bad, etc, But it is, because I've been there, And am still there....... Jon
  3. Can it really be three months since I last posted? Interest has been maintained, and progress made, but external factors (i.e. work, work, and more work) have conspired to reduce available time to something less than minimal So we reach the last day of the group build, and is the wee EE beastie complete? Err, no. Is it likely to be completed? An emphatic yes, and hopefully this side of the new year. I'll probably resume this in the main WIP forum. However, a review of where I am now, and some (more) of the foibles of the Eastern Express 737s might still be of interest here. Findings so far: Fuselage. The two halves are more dissimilar than I first thought. They were certainly not designed by CAD and the creating of a mirror image of one half. As noted by others, the right hand horizontal tail surfaces locating slot is much higher than that on the left - in fact the fuselage is higher here. Not to difficult to partially correct with sanding and enlarging the slot downwards. The top of the fuselage towards the cockpit needs building up, I used Milliput and possibly overdid this, but the picture makes it look worse than it really is. Much sanding wit the indispensable Flexifile frame and medium tapes eventually got rid of all of the seams, and avoided flat spots in obvious areas. The rear underside of the fuselage is too flat in the kit, but I wasn't inclined to try and correct this. Panel lines have been restored, and others added, though the softness of the plastic makes keeping to a constant depth difficult.A coat of Alclad grey primer, and a lot of polishing got to this stage, with just a couple of small areas need further attention: Horizontal tail surfaces. A bit of scraping to thin the trailing edge of each half is all that was needed. The fit to the fuselage is very good. These won't be attached until the wings are on. Wings. Almost a disaster. The two halves of each wing were so warped as to produce an X-wing fighter effect. I tried to correct the first via the boiling water method, and managed to thoroughly mangle the training edge, and ended up with one of the flap track housings pointing at a 45 degree angle. Experiments with the other wing showed the warp would disappear just by gluing. This was the closet that the whole project got to being scrapped. Much effort was put into rebuilding of the trailing edge, and at the same time thinning both, Generous applications of Mr Cement S and clamping did the trick, though at the expense of a few dents in the surface, and loss of much panel detail. Scriber time again. After this, attaching the engine pylons was easy, However the 1mm step between this and the part molded on the wing and the wing was enough to be hilarious. Milliput to the rescue again.The top of the pylon above the upper wing was very blobbish, good clear photos of this region are not quite so easy to find - most people who photograph the wing from the cabin seem more interested in the trailing edge. Some sanding has got these to a more engineeringly sound form. They may not be accurate, but they are closer than they were. The offset tabs on each wing ensure the dihedral is correct, but they do need shortening by a couple of millimetres per wing. Fit of the right wing is very good, the lower left is slightly short shot on the inner side, and will need some filler. Engines. Another interesting engineering approach, and one that could have worked well. The two halves of the engine casing don't match the profile of the front part, but it's relatively easy to sand down the joining surfaces on the top side, and apply a lot of downwards pressure as the glue sets. Joining the engines to the pylons, and fairing these in is going to be the last major challenge, but if nothing else, this build has increased by confidence in Milliput's ability to be sanded into the shapes that Eastern Express might have intended, but their tool cutters failed to deliver. So, has this all been worth it? Of course not, but it hasn't taken up very much actual hands on time, and the sanding and polishing can be quite relaxing. Would I start another one? Until this is finished, definitely not. If and when it gets finished, then the chances of going through this again might just reach 1 in a 1000........ Jon
  4. Alclad Jet Exhaust - all black?

    It might make sense to use it as a stain or colour modifier for other Alclad shades, but the Alclad website doesn't suggest this, and shows one of their standard 'shapes' fully coated in Jet Exhaust. The effect there seems to be a bit more metallic than I've obtained, but not by much. I'll try it over or under something else. I've had another look at my own bottle of Jet Exhaust, and what I thought was 3mm of metal in the bottom turned out to be a tide mark from previous shaking and swirling. There's less solid content than in a Christmas snow globe.
  5. This is utterly inspiring work. It would be impressive in 1/48 scale, in 1/72 its's fantastic.
  6. Alclad Jet Exhaust - all black?

    In one of those strange coincidences, I used Alclad jet exhaust for the first time last weekend, and was also puzzled very black, very gloss, but very non-metallic result. It doesn't seem to lay down as easily as all other shades I've used. I've given it time to settle out in the bottle again, and the metal content is barely 3mm deep. A bottle of airframe aluminium has at least 10mm of metal powder at the bottom. I'm beginning to suspect this is a rogue batch.
  7. Excellent progress! If the challenge of the base kit wasn't enough, then adding the winglets takes it to a new level. Likewise I'm looking forward to seeing what emerges from the filling and sanding. Jon
  8. Thanks Ryan That's precisely what i was doing when you posted! The outside edges now follow the wing route profile quite well. Just the 1.5mm gap between the two halves to deal with. Its not even parallel with the centre line. Jon
  9. Neatly sidestepping Zebra's question as to whether a Skyline 737 might be a much more sensible option, the next problem posed by our Eastern Express friends concerns the grotesquely malformed piece of plastic which is supposed to form the lower part of the main wheel bay: On the plus side, it does have the right number of holes, but some drastic action will be called for. I won't be using the kit decals, the scheme is attractive, but I've no idea how the they will behave - I couldn't face the prospect of all that complex masking, then to have the decals disintegrate on contact with water. At the moment, if I get to that point, it will be a predominantly white colour scheme
  10. Perhaps this would be an unwise choice for a first GB entry anyway (and even a first airliner build), but as the experiences of Ryan and Alexander have been documented here only too clearly, perhaps I'm venturing into the realm of the foolhardy. Anyway, as Creative Models have been selling these at irresistibly low prices, and I failed to resist, it was a question of what to do with the thing if I didn't try to glue the bits together. The obligatory box shot: So far so good. With the Moderators permission, I'm joining the fray with some assembly done. Firstly, the fuselage halves have been stuck together. This statement hides the now well-known observation that the warping of the fuselage halves is such they don't even fulfill the adage of 'they fit where they touch'. They don't. Even getting them to touch involved much boiling water and finger pressure, sometimes both at the same time, which in all honesty, I can't recommend. As well as both halves curving banana-like away from each other, the upper and lower edges have an interesting wave effect. This would be just annoying if the peaks and troughs correspond on both halves, but of course, they don't. Then we come to the cockpit windows. At least, we come to the part in the box which claims to be the cockpit windows. It's a clear (?) interloper, and as Ryan found, not only it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit with attitude. In this case, rescue came from Danny Coremans, who dispatched a pair of the clear sprues from his own range with impressive speed. A bit of saw and sanding stick work showed that the Daco window piece fitted surprisingly well, but highlighted the flatness of the upper surfaces of the kit, especially behind the cockpit So time to break out the Milliput, and a lot of it, followed by the conversion of some of it to a large heap of powder. This is the current state of play: Still a fair amount of filling and sanding work required around the cockpit, but the rest of the fuselage looks and feels acceptable. The grey spots in the Milliput areas are Mr Surfacer 500, to rectify some minor flaws. One reason for the late entry to the GB was that I wanted to be reasonably sure that seams would be sortable before committing to posting - in the worst case scenario, this is going to be an exercise in seam filling and sanding. The sharp eyed among you might notice something non-Eastern Express going on in the wheel wells. Somewhere along the line I'd obtained cheaply the Extratech etched set for the Minicraft 737. The fold up top and sides fit the EE version well, and really help with the alignment of the lower fuselage. At some point soon the seams and filler will have to be tested with a coat of paint, in the meantime I'll contunue in a mild state of over-optimism.
  11. Albatros D.III Cockpit control wires layout?

    In the Albatros DIII, the opposing aileron control cables were routed through the lower wing, and emerged just behind the 'V'-strut to rise in V fashion to the upper wing - one cable attached very close to the leading edge of the aileron, the other at around the mid point. The D.V had an altered system, with the control cables routed through the upper wing, and thus they leave the cockpit vertically. These are very difficult to see in photographs, but appear to exit at the very rear of the cut away for the engine. Among other changes introduced in the D.Va following a spate of wing failures, the aileron control,reverted back to the form of the D.III (and its predecessors). There are some fantastic images on The Vintage Aviator web site (http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/) of their Albatros D.V reproductions, which show some of the cabling runs
  12. Heller 1/72 Allouette III x2

    Both lovely models.
  13. Correcting Airliner Fuselage Warp?

    I have exactly the same kit in progress, with exactly the same issue. I used elastic bands to clamp each fuselage half to a 12inch steel ruler, and initially tried dunking in hot water followed by cold. This had remarkably little effect, so a more aggressive approach of pouring boiling water over the clamped halves was tried (obviously keeping hands out of the way!). Left the still warm and clamped pieces for about 2 minutes, then put under cold tap. This got rid of most of the warp, and there doesn't seem to have been any tendency for it to return after a week or so. One point to watch out for though if using this method is that the bottom of the fuselage behind the main wheel wells wants to curve inwards. There are a couple of prominent sink marks here, so its going to get treated to a layer of filler anyway. Eastern Express plastic is soft rather than brittle, which doesn't make for much fun when sanding back sprue attachment points, of which there are an excessive number.