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nachjager

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  1. This thread on the ARC forums may be of help on this matter: Have Glass Discussion
  2. I have used Mr Gloss Black as primer for metal colors without problems. Once dry its like a armored shield. But lately I have switched to Mr. Color GX Ueno Black, as it gives the best gloss finish I have seen from a lacquer paint.
  3. nachjager

    Custom Decals

    Inkscape is the way to go, at least for me. But, if you are doing, for example, squadron badges or other complicated shapes I suggest to do waht I did: get the best photo you can of the sahpe you want to convert to decal and hire a professional to do the raster-to-vector conversion. There are lots out the on the web. I found one on https://www.fiverr.com I got some images converted for less than $15 (for us living in CrazyTown USA) and then you can reshape in Inkscape. Ber aware, Inkscape has its issues, specially on Windows 10, and their raster to vector features are still in need of some polishing.
  4. This thread in Armorama should answers all your questions: CARC Sand colors for modern US Armor One thing is for sure: Desert Storm era sand is NOT the same one used today. So MM US Gulf Armor Sand should NOT be used on M1235A1 nor M1224 MRAP. Hope this helps.
  5. Same plastic, different decals: https://www.super-hobby.com/products/F-15E-STRIKE-EAGLE-OPERATION-IRAQ-FREEDOM.html https://www.super-hobby.com/products/USAF-F-15E-Seymour-Johnson.html Hope this helps.
  6. Great build. I have an observation: what color are you using for the cockpit and interior? Zinc Chromate Green? If so it should be Interior Green, with is more of a yellowish olive green hue. The best match I have seen is the Testors Model Master version but Vallejo's has that color to that looks convincing.
  7. The color that best match modern US vehicles is FS33531. Best match for this color are: Testors Model Master Sand FS33531 Mr Color H313 Yellow FS33531 (The aqueous version match better that the lacquer one) You can also use Vallejo Model Air Sand which is also a very close match. This link will probably answer all your questions: http://armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=211958&page=1 HTH
  8. For a modern M1A2 V2/Tusk II variant go with the Academy (kit 13504). It is cheaper than the Dragon kit, easier to build and has the wonderful DEF Model tracks. For the M1A1 version I would suggest to get the Meng's M1A1 AIM/ M1A1 Abrams TUSK, with it you can even build the USMC variant of the tank. There are others kits out there but that's my recommendation.
  9. nachjager

    Hataka

    I concur with your comments, I tried to thin it with Leveling Thinner and, at first, it went gooey but after adding an insanely amount of thinner it went smooth and silky. Btw, the paint I used was the Have Glass color that came out with the USAF Modern jet set so I guess it is the ‘old’ formula. The final finish was a very smooth paint finish, with an eggshell effect that reminds me of the Mr. Aqueous line of paints. As a final footnote, I also experimented with Gaianote’s T-09M Thinner and the results were also very encouraging.
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