Crayons

I'll fourth it.

Italeri have always sucked at "jerry cans" and German jacks oddly enough. I had considered just putting a styrene shim into the kit fenders, but as I want a worn, scrub basher look, styrene isn't going to cut the mustard so to speak. Voyager have produced two sets of fenders for the 234/2 Dragon kit, one early and one late, and I had thought of using those, right up until I couldn't find any. Then I found one store online through ScaleMates but the postage cost near cause me to have a heart attack, so I dismissed that lot. 80 Kangaroo dollars just to put something in a standard letter envelope, um.........not a hope in hell. tigerausfb has provided me with some actual measurements from wheel centres (thank you very much) and also the radius of the fender curve, so I'll work with those. Current thoughts are aluminium sheet. If anyone has the Voyager early set that they would like to part with for fiscal compensation with a postage cost that is actually reasonable, please let me know.

Certainly would have been bumpy ride on ovoid wheels.

I actually hate the painting part. So, thank you for your comment.

Minor update. I've taken a little break from the build whilst I contemplate how to best remake the 234/2 fenders as the kit supplied items are to narrow. So, with the replacement wheels from RM in my possession, I thought I would get them all painted up and a little tired and worn looking. Thank you for looking.

And don't forget the 15 future Tiger I releases, because we need more of them.

Great job on this Simon. The canvasesque covers on the smoke launchers turned out really well.

RM have come through with the goodies and my replacement set of wheels arrived in the post this morning. Very crisp detail on them too. And as per my luck, I finished designing my wheels in LW last night. STL's for future use if I ever decide on the lunacy of making another ANCIENT member 234 family. What scares me the most is that I know I have about four or five other Italeri offerings of different kits circa the same vintage. Thank you to all those at Royal Models.

Maddoxx, question for you: Where did you acquire the dark sorcery to shrink real furniture down to fit into models?

I fully expect to be chased out by a mob, wielding pitchforks and brands of fire as I'm not a wingy thing person, I can fly/have flown several Huey's if that saves me from the unruly masses. Pretty much all of my service was spent on vehicles using the m242 Bushmaster, so I'll take a cannon over an MG any day for engagements. When as in aerial combat the LOOF is very narrow due to speed and angles, a heavier, harder hitting projectile, be it ball, tracer, ap or HE and all the derivatives in between is much more advantageous as it is in ground fire. A blend of smaller calibre and heavy cailbre is kind of the best of both worlds (for the purpose of actually getting hits). Now, it comes with a trade off, ROF (cannon specific). With modern aircraft, combat or otherwise, one round anywhere be it MG, cannon or AA it is going to do damage (crippling or otherwise, the aircraft in 99.9% of scenarios is out of the fight), the old wingy things with the their cables and handful of hydraulic lines, didn't suffer from the same issues. The Soviet era BUK is a classic example, the missile itself doesn't hit the aircraft, but explodes near it, sending a metric Fton of shaped shrapnel into the target aircraft. Damaging vital systems and ending the flight abilities of the aircraft. HE cannon rounds did/do a similar thing, utilising shrapnel to do the damage. Now, would they penetrate the rear armour of a pilots seat, no, not their design, but I bet sure as, that pilot is out of the fight for X amount of time healing broken bones from the explosion concussion. Never look at WWII era gun cam as being the first part of the engagement, the bit they show of the enemy going down in a hail of mg bullets is to win the hearts of the people, it is rarely truthful. Also, look at the reasoning and performance of the weapons selected and the thoughts/doctrine of the time, it isn't a random theory someone conjures up after a hard night on the single malt. My two cents, no change or refunds given.

I'm not a fan of the Pz. IV, but I do look like the look of this. Going to be keeping an eye on this.

Thank you. I have had to give up on some of the old school scratch work. Tipping point came with the need for new engine hatch hinges. I just could not figure how to scratch build eight of them efficiently given their profile. And this build is already way over my allotted time frame. But, silk purse, sows ear. Hoping for pleather, best outcome. I do have a diorama already drawn out for this vehicle, but I might just put that on hold and move onto the next project (after this build is completed) which is a WIF.

Minor update: Still no word further word from RM with regards to the wheels (been about a month now). Nearly finished designing my own replacements in LW which is taking an age due to work commitments. Very basic semi scratched interior as some of it will be visible through the now opened drivers hatch. I'll run some leads from my 3d printed batteries to a random point up the back. There is actually a junction box they feed into just behind the batteries, so I might make it even though it wont to be seen. Drivers hatch just needs a fillet on each hinge and some bolts and it is done. Replacement visor covers are RM from the set as are the PE lifting hooks. The RM set does provide PE additions for the visors to be in the open position, but I opted to have them closed. Thank you for looking.

Coming along very nicely Maddoxx. Looking forward to seeing it all DAK'd up.

Just as an FYI, the ancient Tamiya offering, whlist being less detailed is actually more accurate in terms of dimensions

Nice work on what looks like very fragile running gear.

Thank you for the link Pete, I have looked at various AM wheels and I really don't want to sink more money into this ancient kit. I am currently waiting on RM coming up with replacement wheels, but as a "I'm not holding my breath" I have started work on designing my own in Lightwave. I was hoping to avoid 3d on this, but the engine hinges just could not be scratch build. No to mention, Italeri leave out two hinges altogether, and those are the rear engine hatch hinges. So, the gloves are off. EDIT: My bad, it's Heavy Hobby not Heavy Model. I knew weight was involved.

I'm going to admit, I only like this tank because of what Becker made it into. But, count me in for watching it. Odd thing though, typo on the label or did they make one box and dymo label the rest?

I don't have any plans to do an engine, for three reasons. Firstly, you wouldn't see it anyway. Secondly, I have don't have any schematics for the the Tatra engine nor do I have access to one to take measurements from. Thirdly, it's beyond my meagre skills to make. I believe Heavy Model do do an engine in resin, but it costs more than the value of a 44 (initial release) year old plastic kit. Edit: If Heavy Model wish to donate one, far be it for me to turn such a generous donation down. And I can already think of a suitable diorama setting if such a thing were to happen. Similar to what I have planned for a Stug III Ausf. B build I have in mind.

Thanks Bullbasket. It was steamier than Satan's crotch the day I was doing that and the epoxy was sticking to everything but the plastic. Note to self, Tamiya epoxy doesn't like steamy weather. I plan on going back and tidying them up at a later stage.

Welcome Beniah from just West of you.

I was hoping to have more progress to show, but RL has been keeping me rather time poor of late. Managed to get this far though since my last post. And an overall progress shot. So, what's new and why did I do this. The kit engine deck is mostly right. What's wrong with the kit section? The rear engine deck does not span the entire width of the hull and as such a visible step between the sides and the deck is missing. The upper row of bolts is not present on the kit, the upper intake grills locking handles are incorrect as are the engine access hatch hinges. The main section that is wrong is the rear intake that runs length ways on the deck, the kit part (and RM louvres) are to wide. I designed new engine hatch hinges in Lightwave then printed them off. (Big thanks to my friend Michael for all the measurements/photos an original hinge) For the diorama idea I have for this vehicle, I need to have the drivers hatch open, the kit doesn't give the option of open or closed so I cut into it. New hatch, hinges and locking mechanism are in the works. Thank you for looking.

Minor update, Started work on the new engine deck. Mesh screening is from the spares box. Still a few details to add. RM provide PE louvres for the intakes. They also provide PE handles for the upper intake grill but they are totally wrong so I had to make my own. Mesh is probably over scale, but it is what I had and once the louvres are in place, it will be hard to see anyway. Thank you for looking.

Sadly Pete, it isn't photographic distortion. ALL four C pattern tyres are ovoid in shape.

Thanks Keith. I wonder just how much will be visible on the completed model, but it needed to be done. Currently remaking the engine deck, because shock horror, it is wrong too. However, I will finally get to use some of the Royal Model PE, so I am happy about that.