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About Codger

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    Long Island NY, USA

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  1. Thank you guys. Wayne that gap shows exactly how much the body had to go aft to center the rear wheels - 5 mm. The chassis rail is the dark gray behind it. I didn't realize 2 years ago when I did it that the fender apron would need a filler there. As an omission, that bothers me less than un-centered rear wheels would have. But I'm not as sharp as I'd like to be...
  2. A hoodwink... Which is a very brief update due to forces beyond my control. Since the above, 8 days ago I've decided to keep the full 35 louvers but move them aft as a true Gurney car would have. So I filled the front of the panel and moved them closer to the cowl. Also added the complete beltline mouldings so this is the final look. Have started the side hinges and they are now holding the top and side panel together. The tape marks are for alignment only. Found these in the camera from few days ago but here's where work stopped. More when time permits. A word to my big scale-builder friends. I have peeked at all your threads and have seen marvelous work continues to pour from you all. I sadly have had near zero time to interact with you and ask questions and compliment your skills and advice. So Jeremy, Ron, Rich, Poul, Thierry, Roy ,Sam, Wayne, Tammy, Dan, Ian - and any I may have forgotten - carry on your excellent projects and thanks to all who have commented here about mine. Nice to come back to a 'normal' home and friends...
  3. As we all surmised, Pocher headaches and transkit complexities are already producing excellent problem solutions. Great contributions from the builders and viewers are a wealth of info for all of us. I've already broken my share of bits and I'm largely past that now but those parts are a goldmine. Thanks to Wayne, Ron and Schwarz for quality info. Question Wayne; are those locating holes in the brass plate to which the ears get soldered to? If not, you've built some anti-dive into the upper control arm. It's a shame the trans instructions are not more clear. I think you'll need an open line to Tommaso going forward...
  4. Just wait until that transkit overflows the room...
  5. Your red circles are weights. They are small caps filled with washer stacks. I'm less sure about the coiled wire.
  6. If these were zinc, you'd have made real parts. Did you measure throttle tip-in too??
  7. Problem solving already. The Pocher tradition continues...
  8. Here's a thought that may or may not apply to your Ducati lump; make a 'work stand' out of scrap. I cobbled some scrap basswood, plastic rod and tacks to safely hold the Rolls lump for fine work and storage. Note all the doo-dads are in place and hanging off everywhere. I stuck the rods and tacks in ports and the thing sat on it's side securely. Crude but effective:
  9. Sorry no help with your initial question. But a friend has the Caswell kit for nickel plating and did some brass parts for me. They came out very well. A 'softer' shine than chrome and very in scale for real nickel in 1/8.
  10. A perfect statement of the real problem David. Nothing I will do about those issues at this late stage. But I can make small adjustments and the result, I will be happy to live with. I don't think Gurney or Nutting will be displeased with me...
  11. All those details you added are paying off Rich; that over head view is a treat. Super neat work on a tough subject. Don't sweat the oil line...
  12. These are surely 1:1 photos...if they're not, the overall presentation in 1/8 is superior to anything yet seen. They have the dead real look of metal and rubber parts cast and bolted together. This engine should be displayed outside the chassis so as not to lose the visual detail feast. Period.
  13. Nay, nay my friends! Any alterations will be to the new panel and the simple expedient of filling a few slots. No more 'round the world' changes for these tired eyes...
  14. An interesting factoid... A brief conversation with David Cox has uncovered a 'taken for granted' fact about Phantom II Sedancas (and probably Torpedoes too) and their louvered 'bonnets'. To get the placement of the block of louvers correct to Gurney Nutting (GN) Phantoms, I began to experiment with their placement withing a few millimeters. In an off hand comment, David said words to effect that 'Pocher has the wrong number'. This caused me to more carefully study my books and photos and sure enough there's a significant difference. Pocher molds 35 louvers into the hood side panels. At least two originals have only 31. Gentile's 201 RY being one - a very famous car (restored to original configuration) at Pebble Beach and other concours. They are also closer to the edge next to the cowl than Pocher chose. Further, I discovered that Pocher only molds five louvers into the cowl where the two prototypes I studied have eight and nine respectively. This is a significant change in the look of the car's coach. Granted, these originals were all 'custom' coachbuilt with selections by the owners. Rolls Royce offered a factory choice of 11 degree slants to the louvers or upright vertical and included the hoods with the chassis to the coachbuilder. A few wealthy clients had more or less louvers made with more radical slants to their angle. There is no right or wrong with these cars, just a presentation of what was done most often by coachbuilders. So my dilemma became what to do? In an early experiment, I shaved and filled-in two louvers at the front to gain some room for filler at the front edge of the surrounding hood. This was successful and the filled louvers are undetectable in primer. That panel is seen in an earlier post. So I can: Fill 3 louvers at front edge and 1 at rear. Any combination filled to reduce number to 31. Leave as is with 35 because: a. it's easier, b. if it looks good it's OK. I cannot: Alter the number of cowl louvers. One can look at this classic as a model of a 'Pocher' which resembles a certain Rolls, NOT a custom coach with all the cues of a Gurney Nutting or Barker car. I strove to emulate the proportions of true GN cars; the stock Pocher has too many compromises to that look. Any stock Pocher can build into a lovely model, make no mistake. But the trademark GN low roof, channeled body and flat hood only come with radical alteration to the Pocher. Tempest in a teapot? Probably. But the thought I wish to impart is that ANY Pocher classic is a compromise to what the prototype cars were. Indeed, most are compilations of features from several models or years of prototypes. Several wildly talented builders here have undertaken intense study and measurements of researched cars and attempted and accomplished staggering alterations (including track width and wheelbase) to Pocher kits - especially the Alfas. If 'accuracy' is your goal, load up on research and study it carefully. This can apply also to the modern sport cars from Pocher with which Pocher was forced to simplify detail because of the staggering complexity of the original. That's why transkits for them have become almost a 'must-have'. I still didn't decide what I'll do but here is a fun 'coloring book' look at the actual parts in the actual colors on the car. I graphically reduced the number of louvers to 31 but left the cowl as it must remain. This is the actual fabricated hood with the louvers in their actual placement in relation to the cowl's louvers. I can be happy with this.
  15. To be clear Ian, I did not fabricate each individual louver, as say, Thierry has done. Rather, I removed the block of them from spare hood panels as seen in this earlier snap. I left a 5mm border around them (yellow tape) so that no filler fouls the tips of them where it joins the cut-out in the fabricated white panel.