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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Codger

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  1. A little color sanding today. The weather has been hateful but clear will go on when it dries up. Thierry, you are way too kind. The Little Lady will appear when all is done. She is too delicate for any kind of handling. She sleeps on a tuft of cotton, in a small plastic box - safe for over 3 decades. Hopefully, she will guide my Rolls just as long...
  2. I did know they were black for the movie; I meant that factory cars were raw ally or polished.
  3. Well I know that if you DID do dry-fits, they would align far better than mine. 'vd M' must be Netherlandese for 'Precision'. When I put the door away, I will take a close shot of just its surface and the reflections will tell the story. Hopefully, a good story.
  4. If you could enlarge the image Roy, you could clearly see that the door hinges are not aligned - there are no pins in them. That's why the color sweep has a jog in it near the hinge. The door front is ajar. The door is literally just 'stuck in the hole'. Main reason is I don't like to handle it much for prints, didn't have gloves on and was dying to see the whole look. Very immature of me but it's been a long time. Same with the hood top and side - just sitting in place with no hinge pin. I ASSURE you (all) that with the door properly fit and latched, the color sweep is as perfect as I could get it and the pinned hood side seam is flush. It's the most blatantly visible area on the car so it had to be. That's where all the hours went...
  5. Couldn't resist!... Paint still wet! Clear yet to come. Things just hung on...Had to see what I was after all this time. Love it or hate it...
  6. Neil, 'Round here ( different than your 'here' ) we just call them 'knock-offs'. I suspect the Miura's were raw or polished aluminum; doubtful that something that gets hammered-on would be painted. US Halibrands were raw ally and some were steel. Some used on GT-40's were anodized. Great work on a beautiful car. Your weathering, patina and careful detail work are exceptional. Too bad this is not available in 1/8 scale; you would do great justice to one that size.
  7. Nice work all around. A question about the sway bar; looks 'plasticy' soft with a bow in center. A brass rod with tubing end fittings for those links might be stiffer and more tidy. I know it's not taking stresses so feel free to disregard. Not trying to make more work for you.
  8. A brilliant alliance between two meticulous craftsmen! Roy, the depth and skill of your work are outdone only by your time commitment and ethic. Ron, yet another visual feast for what has become your tour-de-force Ducati. The detail layers are becoming indistinguishable from something on the Ducati factory floor.
  9. It is a truly dedicated transkit builder who will cut his balls off for realism. I know Rich will be following chapter and verse...
  10. Thanks all guys. Rich, I will gently clean up the red then shoot the cream and go through the same steps of color sanding as the red. Except for those louvers. I'll soft mask them to limit build-up as color goes on, then unmask for color. You can't sand or abuse those. Then I'll clear the whole panel to eliminate a hard line of clear between colors. That's the plan anyway...
  11. MUCH appreciated Jeremy. What psi did you use for the grille shell?
  12. The pain is worth it... This is why Testors Wet Look Clear is my weapon of choice for this paint combination. Here it is straight from the can. And why all the tedious prep is worth it. The second round of two wet (but not dripping!) coats of red has been sanded to 2400 and thoroughly dried, as seen above. Today I shot a coat of TWLC, medium wet, 'baked' and sanded it (2400, 4000, 6000) and two hours later shot another the same way. And here that is without any sanding - yet. I will take this to 12,000 tomorrow. Notice the lamp reflections and that there is virtually no 'leather' or 'peel' in this. The Testors really lays out well if you get enough on the surface. It's remarkably forgiving. And here's the panel in its future home, just sitting there. Note that the gloss on the cowl (about 18 months old) is a near match for the un-polished new clear. You can't tell unless in person but this clear enriches a base color and makes it 'diamond-like'. Makes your colors 'pop'. Very exciting and rewarding time. Pinot Grigio time...
  13. YOU are definitely in the INsanity range. With finishes as accurate as life itself. -and knock off that 'great one' stuff!!!!!!!!!!!
  14. Paint progress... I appreciate that some of you find value in my methods enough to save them, but I'd like to stress that this is what works for me. There are 100 ways to skin this cat and there are very excellent painters all over this forum so please do not consider this the 'last word' in paint methods. A good deal of paint success comes from 'feel' - another word for experience. The real learning process for me was three decades ago on my 1:1 Cobra. A successful tip from way back in the thread when I painted the main body and later, the doors, is using tin foil for large surface masking. Poul has used this method on his Alfa with great success. I like to use as little masking tape as possible on adjacent painted surfaces. I never cover the whole surface in tape. Tin foil (without holes in it!) is an absolute barrier and the hottest lacquers will not soak through . Easy to handle and fold in place too. Here the side panels are covered so the coachline can get its red coat. I use the 2mm Tamiya for a sharp edge and a minimal amount of tape contact. Then Tammy yellow tape at the very top edge of the foil and to overlap the 2mm tape. The only tape adhered to the panel is the 2mm and the large section is completely free. Note that the foil easily folds around the sides and bottom of the part eliminating the need to tape it down. Here the hood tops have received their first round of color coats and have been wet color sanded with the grits written on the towel. Baby-bottom smooth and any imperfections gone. Notice that at only 2400 grit final, the reflections are becoming distinct. If you continued up to 12.000, you'd have a mirror glass finish. But for me, A wet coat or two more of red, repeat the sanding, then it's time for clear. I'll repeat a wacky tip I mentioned earlier about drying the paint - for those who have such a set-up. I paint on warm and as humidity-free days as are available, in my garage. I keep my sedan parked in the driveway and on 70+F sunny days the cabin gets to between 105F and 120F or so. Perfect for drying and out-gassing lacquer. Gives the paint a chance to flow together, just like a bake booth in bodyshops. Also keeps pollen and dust off while drying. Sanity plays no part in good paint jobs...