DogTailRed2

Round metal cylinders such as exhausts and oil drums tend to get very defined edged dents, like creases. You can simulate these with a flat file creating a rent or notch in the part.

However if I was building the inaccurate tank from the film wouldn't that make it accurate :-)

Thanks for the replies. I'm not particularly interested in the accuracies of the kit, or the war or for that matter the film. I'm just interested in how modellers who have built the kit got around the obvious problem of the tracks not fitting. My idea would be to remove, then re-drill and re-attach the guide wheels ? Just curious if anyone has tackled this yet. Thanks.

Just to clarify the question. The Italeri Fury is an update to an old kit. The old kit has thin tracks. The new kit has `Fury` tracks and are consequently too thick to fit between the return rollers and the mud guard. The only fix I can find is someone who broke off the rollers and glued them to the track. Not a very satisfying fix :-) I would be interested in a more elegant solution before I start snipping bits off. Thanks.

Anyone tackled the above and can advise how to fit the tracks specifically the lack of clearance between the return rollers and the hull. Thanks.

This is a great conversion which I have decided to have a go at myself. I can determine some of the dimensions from items placed on squared cutting mats however some of the panels, specifically the vehicle side panels, are not on anything I can guess a size for. Can anyone post some basic dimensions please. Specifically the vehicle sides ? Many thanks.

Revell B17, Academy vehicles and Airfix P51's. 1:72nd scale.

I use Micro Mesh cloths and find that 3000 grade works well to smooth a base coat. Then 6000 to polish. I normally do this with some washing up liquid smeared on the model as a lubricant and the cloth dipped in soapy water. This gives me a very smooth surface. These trucks (while not the best of builds) have quite glossy finishes using this technique and they are also brush painted.

Is it okay to use Alclad Black primer and then Alclad Clear for Polished Aluminium, or should I use Humbrol Gloss Black over the primer? I ask because I have painted Alclad Black Primer and then realised it's a matt base.

Thanks. tried it and it's fine. :-)

I want to wipe down my model, to remover finger prints, prior to priming with Alclad II black primer. Will Isopropyl Alcohol affect Alclad Primer or Paints and should I use it in this manner? Many thanks.

Many thanks for the comments. Hopefully I'm not transgressing any forum rules here :-) but my diorama contains vehicles Namely an Academy Dodge Ambulance and a Willies Jeep. Not to mention Tow Truck, Ground Crew and Air Crew. The figures are a mixture of Revell, Preiser and resin spares box layabouts. The small bomb cradle is more for fighters than bombers and will be used for another build. By swapping arms and legs around you can pretty much make any figure you want, with a little imagination. Making angle cuts in knees allows folding legs under. Also makes arms tighter in towards the torso. We can then squeeze figures into tighter spaces. :-)

I started this build a couple of months back. Revell new tool B17, Academy Jeep and Airfix new tool Mustangs. Jeep, Crew all will be displayed on a pan handle hard standing. I started by painting green (my own mix) and drybrushing with silver. Then I applied a GW Nuln Oil wash to the interior. Bomb bay components A while after fitting the bomb bay into the aircraft I found out that the bomb cradles are upside down. Easy mistake to make as they fit both ways. it's not until you try to seal the fuselage that you realise your mistake. Fortunately I was able to recity at a later date. Starting on the Cockpit, wireless op and nav positions. At this scale I just suggest intruments and features. I added a morse key and headset to the wireless op position. Not sure if accurate but It adds some interest. Charts and plotting circle for the Navigator. I'll post more later, thanks for looking :-)

The figures. Pilots are Preiser 1930's Crew and Passengers. They are the early period pilots from this set. Guy with boat hook has the legs from Revel RAF Air and Ground crew set, man standing with spanner. Body of Revel luftwaffer pilot. Arms from either of these sets. Guy leaning out the door is the vinyl Airfix RAF crewman pulling the chocks. Boat is from the resin Pacific downed pilot set (can find on hannants) and figs in boat are frakenpilots from Revel and Resin crewman. I added life jackets to all figs using green stuff. The base is a round cake board, polystyreen core. Covered with plaster bandage. Caked with builders caulk. Painted black and then various shades of blue, green acrylic. Glossed with future. I left the aircraft a loose fit so it could be removed. Scale is obviously 1:72.