F1 Insider

Nice work Shaun, I don't think anyone has answered you yet, but I think the part you asked to be identified are the turning vanes that sit under the nose just behind the front wing pylons.

It would have been removed as this is a discussion thread. The For Sale/Wanted thread is elsewhere.

The Scalemodeller.

I have had a horrible reaction with Halfords grey primer. When spraying it turned everything fluffy. I cannot explain it. However, I now need to strip the primer off to re-spray the parts. Any advice on good products. I don't have brake fluid unfortunately but have all the other household products. Thanks in advance.

The hole in the nose collects air from around the front wing and tidies up the flow further downstream where all the real aero work starts. If you look at images of the nose, there are exit holes just above and behind the wing mounts where the air Is directed out of. It also makes the FIA mandated clear area work harder by energising air flow over it. I'd be surprised if any car had a cooling duct towards the front of the car. Given the lack of space you couldn't collect enough air to make a difference and the holes would be just small enough that tyre marbles/debris could block them. blocked aero can be worked around, inadequate/blocked cooling is terminal.

Epic skills. Nothing more to say about it. However, having worked in the printing industry and using litho sheets, I found them to almost like spring steel and don't really stay "reshaped". What method are you using to form the litho and, critically, get it to stay that way. Looking forward to your next update.

Chaps and chapettes, Apart from Steve at Hiroboy, who I've already emailed, anyone know where I can get Aoshima spares? Ive had an issue involving an oil cooler, some paint, thinners and a distinct lack of talent. Thanks muchly.

Mad Steve....cheers for the pointer...

Legends....hope you're all well. I have Revells 1:16 Karmann Ghia part built in the stash. It is complete but I'd like to change the wheels. Any idea deal where I can look at this scale, without them being RC buggy style. TIA.

Ok, I'm strapped in. Just started the LB Performance Nissan Skyline Kenmary (black and silver) Love the style.

I'm calling this one done. I'm really pleased with how it's turned out. The fit isn't great but as I've said already I believe this is because it's been sat for a couple of years half built in my garage, so something has twisted somewhere. As such, the doors don't close quite how I'd like so I have taken the decision that it will be displayed in a case with doors etc open. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking. Sorry if it's a bit pic heavy but I like looking at pics Comments, critique and all that jazz welcome. Thanks for looking. Much love

Pretty much done on this now. Finished painting of the bumpers and exhaust... Im calling this one done now. I should point out that I haven't done the engine, for two reasons. One, I wasn't sure I was going to include it as it was going to be covered and in a display case anyway and two, I balls'd up painting the casing! The fit on this particular kit is shocking. I don't think it's a Revell issue (the fit on my Ratmeister was perfect), I've had this kit for ages, half built (it was going to be a baby blue, Cali, custom style) for a couple of years and I think it's warped slightly and as such the doors don't quite shut properly. im not that worried, as I've said before, it's going in a display case and the plan was to have the doors open anyway. Proper pictures to follow, off've a proper camera. Thanks for looking.

The more the merrier Alan. NB. I have the same Beetle kit. That won't be stock though!

Exactly that, patience. Just for anyone who is not familiar or wants to know, this is what I did: 1, Mask the surface to be painted, making sure there is tape overhanging the edges. 2, Press a cocktail stick into the recess/lip. This makes sure the tape is stuck down properly and shows the lip reveal better. 3, Draw a sharp scalpel blade around the edge you have defined using the cocktail stick method and remove excess tape. 4, Mask the back of the windows (don't need to worry about removing excess here. Spray directly from above in 2/3 light coats.

From this experience the hardest part of the windows is the masking and even that is a piece of p......., it's just there are loads of them