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About Jonners

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 12/09/1971

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    East Yorkshire

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  1. 1:72 Matchbox A-10A - NOT straight from the box!

    This is good stuff, PA. It makes me feel like a bit of a cheat with my from-the-box Hasegawa version! Keep it up, it's going to look great. Jon
  2. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    Righto, two-week hiatus and busman's holiday completed, so at last I've been able to sneak in some modelling time. I applied a gloss (ish) coat with my airbrush, then set to with the decals. Although I had intended to finish the model as a UK-based aircraft I haven't been able to find any suitable decals. I know which sheets have been printed in the past, but they aren't currently available. Rather than leave the model sitting unfinished while I continued to hunt for UK markings, and risk the inevitable interest failure, I decided to crack on and use the kit decals. I would have preferred a plain finish without the fancy badges and sharkmouth but hey, this is partly a nostalgia build anyway. The 'gloss' finish wasn't perfectly smooth and I've finally emptied my precious bottle of Micro-Sol, so I applied the kit decals onto drops of Johnson's Klear. They have conformed quite well - especially the sharkmouth, considering the nose contours, although the port side decal tore across the middle - but I don't think that I've managed to avoid the dreaded silvering despite my efforts. I'll have to see what horrors appear when the matt coat goes on. Meanwhile, lurking in the wings courtesy of a visit to the superb Porthmadog model shop during my busman's holiday, is this little gem to remind me of youthful 1980's skygazing: More airbrushing practice, and probably a small amount of aftermarket bits & pieces too. Meanwhile, on with the A-10 (and domestic jobs, and work...). Jon
  3. Douglas DC3 Air France

    That's way more effort than I was prepared to put into mine, Rob! Your thread reminded me that, just like you, I compared the kit decals with reference photos and realised that there were huge differences. The wacky font on the 'Air France' lettering was the final straw or me, so (as I remembered when catching up with this thread) I printed my own very simple decals for a Tyne Tees Airways aircraft instead. Unfortunately it didn't prevent me from applying a lousy paint finish, which sealed the model's fate. Keep up the good work - nearly there. Jon
  4. Very tidy, Tony. There are quite a few Pucaras left in the Falklands, as I'm sure you know, all in various states of disrepair! This one was on Onion Range a few years ago: Jon
  5. HO3S-1 1/48 AMP

    Fantastic. I'm lucky enough to fly a modern helicopter that is just a teensy bit more complex than the HO3S/S-51/Dragonfly was, so it astonishes me what my forebears managed to do with these machines. Your model really looks the part: well-made and nicely finished with a real 'workhorse' appearance. Jon
  6. Now that's nice. A very tidy result and an extremely unusual subject. Good effort. Jon
  7. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    Fairly pleased with how this is turning out: The airframe won't get touched now until next week, which should give the enamel paint more than enough time to cure properly before I give it a polish with Micromesh. Now, about those markings for a UK-based machine... Jon
  8. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    I've had some time going spare this morning (through a combination of being off work today and complete apathy towards those queued-up household tasks) so, as work will be taking me away from home for a few days, I was quite keen to make some modelling progress. The blu-tack and tape masking for the Hu30 base colour was completed last night. It looks like an alien sneezed on it... Earlier this morning I fired up my airbrush - remembering that my key aim at the moment is to get reliably acceptable finishes on my creations - and put Hu79 grey in roughly the right places. It doesn't really show up too clearly against the Hu30 green in this mobile phone picture. Until I get myself a decent compressor I'm using an aerosol propellant, so I adjusted the valve to give as low a working pressure as I could get. Once the grey had dried sufficiently I applied Hu117 green for the final main colour. Keeping in mind my attempt at self-improvement and in the spirit of fortune favouring the brave, I decided to try applying the paint freehand where there was no masking. Again, I tried to keep the aerosol pressure down (experts: feel free to tell me if this isn't possible and I'm imagining it!) and used a fine spray width. Impatient as I am, as soon as the Hu30 was touch dry I peeled off most of the masking to see if I'd make a complete hash of it or not. The jury is still deliberating, but seems to be favouring 'not'. The freehand borders between the Hu117 and the grey are quite a bit looser than those with the blu-tack masking, and the blu-tack has left the usual greasy residue in most areas, but neither of these are surprises. Once it is all thoroughly dry I'll remove the big central mask and take it from there. Meanwhile, I've been slowly working on the pilot figure and ECM pod, both of which still need quite a bit of work (including matt varnish on the pilot). That will be it for a few days until I get back from my 'Busman's Holiday' to North Wales. Jon
  9. Douglas DC3 Air France

    Hmmm, there's a challenge! I'll be working away at Caernarfon for a few days starting this week and while I am there I intend to have a nosey around in the excellent model shop in Porthmadog. Who knows what I might come out with??
  10. Douglas DC3 Air France

    Excellent choice, Rob; I started to do exactly the same kit option about 4 years ago and even filled the cabin with a suite of blue airline seats made from balsa. Unfortunately the kit didn't make it to the finishing post, mainly because I was very dissatisfied with the finish, and was subsequently sacrificed in a fit of pre-house-move decluttering. I still have the other decal options, plus most of the decals from the kit's previous release. If I remember correctly I thought that the Air France decals didn't seem to be the right size when compared with reference photos, but of course I could be wrong. The seats were a bit of a faff but don't need to be perfect, as you can't see much through the windows - but you can see enough for it to be quite obvious if they aren't there! Copied your 'quick build' concept, and your plan to focus on trying out new concepts gets the thumbs-up from me. The polished aluminium tape idea has got me thinking, especially as I'm toying with the idea of a silver and white C-47 / DC-3 myself. Great looking Beech 18, by the way! Jon
  11. That is quite simply superb, and the underside is spectacular. An amazing result. Jon
  12. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    Yes, it is a bit Dali-esque. My eyes are starting to get that slightly manic Dali stare, too... I would have said the same myself not too long ago, Rob, but I thought I would have to give it a go. We'll see soon enough whether or not that was a sensible plan! I wasn't sure which colours to use until I found the Cybermodeller paint chart online. It suggests Hu30, Hu102 and Hu79 (grey) for a 10% scale fade on an A-10. The Hu30 and Hu79 seem pretty close but Hu102 seems slightly off compared with photos; Hu117 is suggested for a 7% fade and this looked almost perfect to me, so that's what I intend to use. I started with Hu30 as the base coat and will finish with Hu117 simply because, having examined photos of the real thing, that seems to be the most likely order in which the original colours were applied - though, of course, I could be completely wrong! Jon
  13. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    This is getting quite tedious: I'm possibly halfway there! And then, of course, I'll need to do it again for the third colour... I used the Cybermodeller chart for the European 1 colour reference, based on which I'll be using Hu79 grey next then using Hu117 for the final green. It should look reasonable. Ish. Jon
  14. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    Green on - GO! Very straightforward: Humbrol 30 applied using an aerosol. The grey will be next, using Humbrol 79. On the underside I have managed to damage some of the pylon sway braces; with hindsight it would have been better to wait completing the painting and handling before applying them. They are overscale anyway, so I'll probably end up removing all 22 of them and replacing them with smaller representations later. You live and learn... Jon
  15. 1/72 Hasegawa A-10A

    Both the top and bottom of the seat had to have plastic shaved off before the canopy came close to fitting. I think that the Hasegawa designer intended that the canopy should be modelled open as, if the canopy actuator is fitted in the closed position, the canopy simply will not fit flush. As a result, I've also had to remove some plastic from the actuator, but this can be done in the area that is hidden by the frame of the closed canopy. After all the necessary fettling was completed the canopy was secured using Formula 500 glue, only to find a paper-thin gap between the canopy and windscreen. This was sealed by capillary action using thin Formula 500 applied with a cocktail stick. The next job will be to mask the canopy, then I should be able to get on with painting. Jon