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About espeefan

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    New Jersey, USA
  1. New airfix 1/48 Mustang,

    Street price for the kit appears to be sub 25.00 in the US, so the purchase of a fillet less tail ( if one currently exists) or a cuffless prop is not going to really break the bank for most of us. or, if you cut the fillet off, and bodge it, (and there's another vertical tail to use as is, or to attempt to remove the fillet again)you're only out around 20.00 US. That's half a tank of gas for me. I know some folks do not like aftermarket stuff or modifying parts on their own, and we all have limits to what we can spend on the hobby, but still, I think there's good value to the Airfix kit if the outline proves accurate and the omissions easily rectified.
  2. Best 1/35 m4 sherman w interior

    Mike, you're talking about an M4A1. M4A1s were produced through the whole Sherman Production run, so what time period are you looking to make a model from? Shermans are really the farmers axe. A late production M4A1 has a different suspension, transmission cover, exhaust deflector, hull profile, larger hatches, different ammo stowage, a different turret, different gun, and that's just scratching the surface. CMK and Resicast both make interiors suitable for a mid-production M4A1, from say, Italy through the ETO campaign, and close enough for an early one. Tank Workshops makes an early M4 interior that would probably fit too-its really what I'm calling a mid production tank. The tasca "early" M4A1 is also really mid production. Their Sherman Mk II in British markings is a true early M4A1. I don't think anyone makes a T23 turret interior though, so an M4A1 76mm(w) isn't possible, though the Italeri kit has a presentable breech.
  3. AZ model news for Telford show

    Hate to sound cheap, but would you sell just the clear parts, decals and PE for a Hampton? Don't want to see my Valom kit wasted. And when is the P-36 family due?
  4. Wildcat Window Help

    Go to full service hobby shop, and buy the type of white glue that RC modelers use to attach canopies, the most common being Formula 560 Canopy Glue. I haven't built the Wildcat yet, but if the windows press fit from inside, press them in and run a bead of glue using a toothpick around the join. If its a really snug fit you can thin it a bit to get it to flow between the 2.
  5. Doing Johnny Plagis' spitfire from the Sword dual Malta Spitfire/Reggiani kit. My guess would be after painting over the delivered camo scheme, they would not restore the stencils, but the undersides, if not painted, would retain them. What say all of you?
  6. A BP Defiant question please.

    The pictures Dogsbody links to are helpful, just be aware the one that appears to show the gunner entering from the right side is reversed. The rear fairing down, turret to starboard, guns slightly elevated and front fairing up was the most common and shows in the pictures. you can lower the step as well. Flaps really should be up by the way, but if it makes you happy to see them down, personally, I have no objection!
  7. Mustang III wheel wells color

    No, 99% certain, natural metal, spar YZC. according to Dana bell, North American got permission to discontinue corrosion treatment. Only the spar would be primed to prevent corrosion caused by contact between dissimilar metals. Again, from an old post of Dana Bell's on Hyperscale.
  8. AZmodel 1/72 TBD-1 Devastator

    The torpedo bodies were silver, but they were greased to keep from oxidizing, so had a slight amber tone. The warheads were a lighter grey: http://tailspintopics.blogspot.com/2010/01/us-navy-aerial-torpedoes-in-world-war.html http://ww2db.com/image.php?image_id=25105 I think brass for the props is OK, see the 2nd picture
  9. SBS DH.88 done

    I'll have to check your article when it appears! it is a really well done kit, isn't it! and its red!
  10. SBS DH.88 done

    Yes, they are the only thing not included in the kit. Stretched sprue, with a glop of canopy glue on the end, fairly convincing I guess. And thank you.
  11. I hope you like it. The kits a beautiful build, no real problems at all.
  12. 1/72nd P-51 Mustangs

    There are regular flights between them, you know.
  13. 1/72nd P-51 Mustangs

    Actually, I don't see how he could miss the worstest, most hideousness portion of the KP kit- the malformed cowling. The KP has it so the chin intake and the spinner form 2 separate cylinders that intersect for a fair distance back along the cowling, creating a highly uncharacteristic "double bubble", or crease if you will- a figure 8 cross section. The sides and top of the Mustang's cowing are relatively flat, and no crease exists on the prototype. All the other flaws in the KP kit are relatively benign and I'd live with them(and there are others beyond what was mentioned in the article) but the shadow created by that crease just screams "wrong". from any distance, at any angle,and the poor Merlin inside the KP's front end should be spilling out all over, like Jayne Mansfield in the famous photo with Sophia Loren . I did post this earlier, but I think the Jayne Mansfield example will strike more to heart that a set of dentures. The Hasegawa kit is far better in the nose area and the shortness in the tail isn't obvious, at least to me. I'm trying to figure out the most expedient way to crosskit the 2. The wings of the KP are nice, though the outer gun is too far out but the panel lines, bay openings and leading edge extensions are correct, and it has dropped flaps as most P-51s showed on the ground.Personally, I hope Airfix LIDARs a B soon.
  14. 1/72nd P-51 Mustangs

    In answer to the question, the leading edge on the D/K is further forward and the landing gear bay also moves up to occupy it, which is why you really can't just sand back the extension to make an A/ B/C wing, so the well may not fit right. Also, the biggest fault with the KP kit is the nose. Its far too rounded and pinched behind the spinner and has an entirely fictitious double curve accommodating the spinner and chin intake where it should be more slab sided. Imagine your grandfather with, than without, his false teeth in, and that's the look of the KP to the real thing.
  15. Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Mk 1 cockpit

    For what its worth, after building a Mk Vb and experiencing difficulty with the upper fuselage piece, I chose to assemble the fuselage completely except for the underside of the cowling, then assemble the cockpit tub separately and insert it after. the only difficulty was the little O2 bottle (I guess that's what it is) on the left fuselage half, and I rigged up a way to attach it to the tub. Slipped the tub in, checked the wing fit, and its all good!