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Ex-FAAWAFU

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About Ex-FAAWAFU

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 09/12/59

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salisbury
  • Interests
    Fleet Air Arm from Dad's Swordfish, Albacore & Barracuda III to my own Sea King & Lynx - oh, and the floating grey tin cans they flew from...

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  1. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    The photo was taken while the Microsol was still wet, I think; it’s fine now
  2. Smell The Glove is here! [Spinal Tap - like you needed telling] You are starting to rival the Heath-meister in the beauty of your fire extinguishers. Having seen that, I am glad that my crude effort is almost completely hidden in the depths of the cockpit of a Sea King build which is paused. By the time it re-emerges into the light, yours will be but a distant memory.
  3. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Probably not oil dotting, I think; these aircraft weren't in service for long enough to get seriously faded (not least because they didn't go to sea). I might do a little, but having seen @woody37's fabulous results with pastels on his Lincoln, I think I'm going to do any further weathering that way - after all, one of the points of this build was to try new techniques (actually I have used pastels a bit, so it wouldn't be completely new to me). Thanks for the compliment; I try to build something that looks at least plausible - wartime aircraft certainly got into a right state at times, but this is 4 years later on an RNVR Squadron which only flew at weekends, so they FR46s weren't thrashed to death. Less is more! Anyway, the transfers / stickers / decals are all on: The only markings now missing are the yellow cut marks around the canopy (which will have to await unmasking, obviously), plus the side numbers (the yellow 104 marks). The side numbers are going to be sprayed through Montex masks, just like the under wing serials - I have left them until now because I thought it was going to be tough to line them up with nothing else around. The undercarriage also awaits - it's ready, but won't be going on until all painting & weathering is complete. I am away all day tomorrow, but reckon we're pretty close to RFI now. Crisp
  4. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Georgio - I often do paint markings (indeed I painted the underwing serials on this very model, and the yellow 104 side numbers will be masked shortly), but I am trying to keep this build as simple as possible in order to get it done in a suitably quick and mojo-restoring way (hence no mega-detailing, closed cockpit, only after market being straight swaps like Master turned brass cannon). These are pretty decent - better than I thought they might be, actually originally I wasn't going to use a decal for the CH Culham mark on the tail, but it has worked well.
  5. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    The only ship build on BM is my conversion of the Airfix 1/350 Illustrious into Ark Royal; still a long way from finished, even after over a year of work. My builds tend to be like that - which is exactly why I set out on this Seafire, as an antidote! I will return to Ark in due course, but thus far only the flight deck is painted. You'll find it if you dig deep enough on here! Crisp
  6. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    The chipping fluid is effectively just a layer of (very watery) paint. I think you'd probably need to spray it, because it does turn slightly sticky pretty fast after application, so if you were putting in on with a hairy stick I can see that you might run into issues with un-even-ness (though that could easily be because I am rubbish with a hairy stick). But assuming you put it on in a thin sprayed layer, no it's not visible beneath the top coat. But no, you definitely DON'T put a varnish onto the top coat before you do the water & scrub thing. Yes, you are trying to dissolve the chipping fluid, but you have to reactivate it with the water through the top coat - it soaks through gradually - and the entire point of it is to take some of the top coat away with it as you scrub (though the word "scrub" makes it sound more vigorous than it really is), thus exposing the sub-coat of metal (or whatever). You add the protective layer of varnish only once you're happy with the paint finish. You can then weather the chipped area further with pastels, oils etc., post-varnish. I haven't tried it, but my guess is that varnish before chipping would probably make the chipping fluid fail to work (because it would seal the water outside and thus never re-activate it). Like all techniques, the best thing to do is to practice on your paint mule of choice - my trusty Fulmar wing is Sir John Fairey's gift that keeps on giving. I reckon this technique is easier than most; the challenge lies in becoming good at it so it looks really subtle. I am getting there, but some of the stuff I have seen is mind-blowing, so I know I have a way to go. I have to get on with some work (yet more job applications) - but before I go here is a teaser shot taken at the end of my break for lunch... Usual scary wrinkling on the wing roundel after application of MicroSol - it's always an act of faith to LEAVE IT ALONE! Yum yum. Crisp
  7. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    I used AK Interactive Worn Effects chipping fluid. It is essentially the same idea as the "hair-spray" method; you spray a base coat of metal colour (in this case Vallejo Metal Color Duraluminium), and when it is dry you spray a coat of the chipping fluid on top. When you are certain it's totally dry, then add the top EDSG coat (2 coats, in this case). The chirping fluid dissolves in water, so once the paint is dry, take a stiff-ish brush (I have an old paint brush which I have trimmed to the bristles are only about 1mm long), put a layer of water onto the appropriate area, wait for a few minutes to let the water soak a little, then scrub with the brush. Gradually it removes bits of the paint - you can also encourage it a bit more with a toothpick if it is stubborn. It works really well and gives a pretty convincing effect - there is one place where a bit too much has come off, but it is easy enough to fix. The beauty of this stuff is that you can be as complex as you like; on ships I sometimes paint a black base layer - chipping fluid & chip - then hull red - chipping fluid & chip - assorted rust layers - chipping fluid & chip, and so on. This leaves you with a really subtle appearance of staining, chips, rust, flaking paint, right through the bare still, and everything in between. AFV modellers use it loads.
  8. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Counter-rotating, too; it’d be like something out of Indiana Jones.
  9. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Uhhh. How did my thread about a Seafire degenerate into a discussion about wooden fences?
  10. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Having got to a pristine finish, now it's time to start messing it up! A little weathering around the cockpit entry door, on the wing root and on top of the cowling - all visible in assorted photos, even of these well-maintained machines that didn't go to sea. And around the cannon magazines - no photographic evidence of this on this mark of Seafire, but it certainly happened on other versions.
  11. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Before I sprayed the EDSG (which has now had a second coat, varying the colour slightly), I spent what felt like a week masking the Sky. However hard you have work at masking, there is always a slight apprehension when it comes to removal time.. But this seems to have paid off nicely; the tricky curve under the nose (which didn't follow the panel line on this airframe, for some reason): Nose on - leading edges of wings and the cannons (which are a complete bugger to mask) looking pretty OK. [P.S. In this photo you can also see in a couple of places that I have started to erode the airscrew blade leading edges]: Blurry, but you get the gist under the port side of the tail: Other side: And finally the whole underside. There are a couple of bleeds around the starboard flaps / ailerons (though nothing too nasty) - but I am especially pleased with the empennage! Happy boy! Crisp
  12. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Baint gonna be none of that on this build; pure post-War EDSG over Sky, low demarkation (like the early Sea Furies, which were exact contemporaries)
  13. 100 Years #2 - Fairey Swordfish

    Steve - you’re making a lovely job of this (particular hat tip re rigging). A lot better than Hornby’s proof-readers; it’s quite an achievement to spell Lieutenant wrong two different ways in the same sentence...
  14. A pair of Airfix Hawks in 1/72

    100 pages, Mr. F; congrats! <raises bat; surveys field; takes fresh guard>
  15. Supermarine's best? Mojo-restoration!

    Base coat of EDSG is on! This is my home brew EDSG - 6 parts XF-24 Dark Grey, 2 parts XF-54 Dark Sea Grey, 1 part XF-50 Field Blue; subsequent coats will be that mix with varying degrees of lightening to break up the large expanses of the same colour. However, it's a start and I am very pleased with it: P.S. a cheeky shot with the airscrews in place (not glued) - an impression of monstrous power!
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