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Ex-FAAWAFU

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Ex-FAAWAFU last won the day on February 10

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About Ex-FAAWAFU

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  • Birthday 09/12/59

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salisbury
  • Interests
    Fleet Air Arm from Dad's Swordfish, Albacore & Barracuda III to my own Sea King & Lynx - oh, and the floating grey tin cans they flew from...

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  1. Final post until tomorrow evening at least. I am gradually making progress with the HGW rivets, this time for keeps - the (folded) tail pylon is the only bit being done at the moment, because it needs to be painted first. Most of the markings (roundels, large numbers etc) are going to be painted on this model, but the smaller marks are transfers - including, for instance, the R for Ark on the tail. I am very happy with the way that the rivets are showing up ON TOP of the markings - visible here (unfinished) across the R and the E of DANGER - which of course they do in real life. The photos actually make the rivets more prominent than they appear to the naked eye. They will all get a wash or two over the top to dull them down, but actually it isn't going to have to be too heavy. I'm also (and this is Hendie's fault again!) rather pleased with the fact that the inner rivets are at one pitch and the outer ones (which are actually on the edge of the fairing that covers the underside) are at a different pitch. Deeply, deeply sad! I know the windows aren't aligned in real life, Bob. Though I haven't glued anything yet, mine will not be 100% authentic in this regard - too difficult to get the window, PE and fuselage side to line up as it is, without introducing yet another level! Nice try, though... C
  2. Oh, you need all the greeblies; helicopters have to look useful. If you want sleek and shiny, you're in the wrong place (though the Lynx & Gazelle have their sleek aspects), but if you want a kick-a*se flying machine that can do almost anything, then you definitely need greeblies! Anyway. A few posts ago I showed you the FlightPath PE pilots' window frames, which are real things of beauty. I have really been struggling, however, to get them to stick to the kit windows in a manner that looks even vaguely convincing. I can get them to look like a couple of pieces of brass bolted onto the side of a Sea King for some random reason, but I want them to look like... well, like window frames, really. So I have come up with another Cunning Plan. The issue seems - at least partly - to be the thickness of the kit windows; add them to the airframe and the PE part sticks out too far. [To be fair to Hasegawa, they are designed to be painted to look like window frames themselves, obviously!] My normal countersinking is very hard to do here, and the clear plastic parts are hard and brittle. Anyway, to cut a long story short I have decided to keep the PE frames and replace the window transparencies - simple enough because they are flat. Out came an old piece of Aires packaging (Sea Vixen ejection seat, from memory) that I keep for precisely this purpose, and a few cuts later we have something approximating to a window: Since this shot I have painted the inside of the frames yellow, and once that is well and truly dry out will come the Gator Grip. Next, time to move onto the undercarriage. Eduard provide nice PE bays, but the real thing is pretty clean and simple. There are a couple of hydraulic lines in there, but nothing too complex, so I have not gone overboard. You can also see the Eduard PE piece under the stub wing. I had missed this when I was fitting Micromark rivets a couple of days ago, but Eduard's is way better. I had to trim the one on the other wing to allow the flood lamp to show. Hasegawa's undercarriage is pretty good, showing the chunky girder-like legs well. I have added a couple of hydraulic / brake lines that are prominent on the real thing, plus another of my minuscule connectors. I have also drilled out some lightening holes in the trailing arm (which you can't see here - trust me, they're there), and drilled the hole for the ground locking pin; this will eventually have a nice fat Remove Before Flight flag on it, but for now is simply a piece of brass rod in a hole: Hard to see on the undercarriage, because of the angle, is the fact that I have replaced both tie-down rings. These are the weakest part of Hasegawa's offering, and since I will be adding lashings to this beast, they need to be rings not amorphous lumps. I have actually replaced all of the tie-down rings throughout the aircraft - 2 per side on the fuselage, 2 per undercarriage leg, and this one, which is the easiest to photograph, by the tail wheel. This too will have lashings on it, so is modelled sticking out, ready for them. In this photo you can also clearly see the large hole drilled in the aircraft, where the Forth Road Bridge gear will fit. The white lugs with holes in them are 2 of the 6 attachment points for the wires that steady the HF aerial (yes, there is even going to a small amount of rigging for this cab...), which I added yesterday. You can see two others towards the rear of the tail pylon in the next photo. The third set are forward of the Looker's window, and not visible in these photos. As I said earlier, it is getting to the point where it is hard to handle this model (for fear of dislodging those greeblies that Hendie was on about). Happily a Sea King without a rotor head sits very happily on its back! Note HF aerial masts now fitted; 1 by the tail, one by the Sea Searcher radome and the third on the port sponson. More later if I get time. I am away all day tomorrow in London. Crisp P.S. the front of the undercarriage legs has had PE replacement for one section, but otherwise is kit - the torque link is kit, drilled out, and I think looks better than the flat PE equivalent:
  3. I've already been asked that; the best I can do is look at the photos (which are the only two I have) - it's either 002 or 003 (I incline to the former). I am sure your SIG can match 1988 801NAS side numbers to airframes. Sorry, but I have no more than that; I'm also not completely certain which of my squadron's cabs it was, though since I am still in touch with at least 2 of the crew, that at least would be easy enough to find out from their log books.
  4. And with dry fitted main undercarriage legs; the two Flory sanding sticks are an attempt to compensate for the lack of wheels at this stage. I think Hasegawa have captured the characteristic stoop of a taxying Sea King rather well. This is largely the equivalent of waving a 1/72 Spit over your head and making dagga-dagga noises; fun! Partly to check that everything aligns before the glue cures too hard, but mostly fun. There is a fair amount to do to the undercarriage, so it will be a few hours before it's all permanently fitted. But definite progress. [It does look a bit weird being able to see right through the exhausts, though!] C
  5. ... and now we REALLY start looking like a proper Sea King: I wasn't going to glue the sponsons on at this stage, but with all the aerials, protrusions and other lumps & bumps, it is becoming harder and harder to handle safely, so I think it's time to get her standing on her own three legs. More soon Crisp
  6. Yes, that is quite spooky. Not much done today, but this is where we are heading with the rivets: Elsewhere, I have finally fitted the sonar body. I used AK Interactive's "Worn Effects" fluid to get the battered and scratched look of the bottom, which is what the original always looked like. Not used it much, but I am pretty happy with the result: Once the glue has cured fully, this will disappear under Eduard's PE blanking plate (for the AEW cab; all Sea Kings, regardless of mark, are built with a sonar well - thus proving that all Sea Kings are really Pingers at heart) to protect it while painting etc. I have also added tiny (& thus nigh impossible to photograph) attachment plates for the HF aerial steadying lines, plus the fuel jettison pipe down by the tail wheel. The only thing still remaining before I prime the fuselage is to fit the pilots' windows - might even get to it tomorrow, though I have another big week coming up, with two more short list job interviews on Tuesday & Thursday (one of them for a real doozy of a job). More soon Crisp
  7. I swear by Aizu, though I agree it does take a degree of patience. I have no dispenser, from Hell or anywhere else; just a roll of thin tape. I used a shed-load of it when masking the lines on Ark's flight deck, and maybe that taught me the technique. New scalpel blade; add length of tape using enough excess to provide control; trim very gently with blade. You waste a fair amount, but there is nothing else like it; I can't get on with the Jammy Dogs equivalent - different material which seems prone to bleeding (which is kind of fatal when the tape is only 0.4mm wide in the first place!)
  8. Not much time at the bench today - too nice outside, for once. But here is a pattern of 0.4mm Aizu tape that you might recognise on the Barn Door: ...oh, and you guys were spookily right about Dan's mate...
  9. I'd definitely be up for some of those. I know very little about the Merlin, to be honest. When I was training it was all "by the time you get to SPLOT, you won't be flying Sea Kings any more...", but somehow it all took much longer. I have had a good crawl round an HM Mk.1, and recall being utterly gob-smacked by the sheer size of the thing, but that's about it. I assume the main differences between Mks 3 & 4 is that the latter will have a folding head, tail, etc. plus other marinisation. I know that it's possible to build a Mk.1 or 2 from the Airfix Mk.3 (not least because of Andrew's stunning version on here), but it is probably more likely that I will build a token Junglie for my collection. But yes, definitely FLY NAVY placards! This kind of stuff: Proper NATO Northern Flank Royal Marines, none of this Afghan nonsense!
  10. Amazing how much a bit of marking makes the model start to come alive.
  11. ...a-a-a-a-and here we go. This time round I am not proposing to post anything like so many progress shots of the rivets; you've seen it all before. I will show you when sections are finished, but if I document the process in such detail as last time my page count will explode the Mods' heads! But, for the record, here is the start of the (final??) riveting process. It is built on a bed of lacquer (Mr Color) paint, which is far more durable and thus ought not to peel off so readily when the carrier film is removed. once it is all in place there will be a coat of varnish on top to protect things, and then some weathering to tone things down. The major markings (roundels, side numbers) are going to be painted on using a set of Maketar masks that arrived yesterday, since that will allow the rivets to continue across them too, which they do in real life. I am convinced this will give me the look I have been after all this time - and frankly if it doesn't I am running with it anyway, or I will never finish this cab! So here you are: Phase 2 of the madness re-commenced here today.
  12. Ah well! So I'll have to build another one to be completely accurate. (I won't tell if you don't...) Tail warning marks, now with their black borders - Xtradecal black stripes, always invaluable. P.S. while we're on, I am not sure how well this shows up on iPhone pictures. I am always rather wary of single-colour schemes, because it is very easy for them to look too uniform to be remotely realistic. So the three parts of the airframe that have been painted in fact have 3 different colours - the RAF BG base, plus a darker version which contains some FS15042 Sea Blue and a lighter version which contains some FS35164 Intermediate Blue (both convenient US colours from a Mr Color US Navy set). The two non-base colours are applied pretty randomly, in squiggles. Anyway, I think it will make a much more visible difference when done on the larger scale of the fuselage side. It's one of those things that is overdone if you notice it, if you see what I mean, but you'd miss it if it weren't there.
  13. Markings begin: P.S. It doesn't look as "pink" as this in real life.
  14. The short answer is yes, and no. I know about the starboard stub wing light, but - though the instructions have a lamp for the underside of the starboard sponson - I cannot find any evidence for that light on an HAS5, nor do I have any memory of one. I can see a vague thing which may or may not be in some pictures of HAS6s and Baggers, but not Mk.5s. Quite a few HAS5s had MAD sponsons to starboard anyway, and they certainly didn't have any right in them. So I am going to fill the starboard stub wing light, yes, but have already filled the starboard sponson hole. If i am wrong, I am wrong, but I am certainly not undoing the filling operation now! Sue me...
  15. A return to rivets, briefly - this time Archers. The underside of the stub wings has some particularly brutal rivet action; even allowing for the extreme close-up,we are not talking sanded flush here... So I want something less refined than the HGWs, which takes me straight to Archers. That will be all this evening. N.B. also the snub ring is now glued in place. More tomorrow possibly, and over the weekend definitely. Crisp